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Appreciating your videos my dude, thank you for your knowledge man! Sub'd

Another banger appreciate it

Great video keep them coming bro🎉

Way to Kool for me, video was not helpful

I see you got wago .are they safe

That was really fast I don't think I saw it was going on

🤤🤤🤤 Clean work, I love it. Great job, my man.

Tf is u making this complicated 😂 ur ass learn something new ?😂

Little lines...

Jittery, too fast, non-stop commentary, not properly zooming onto the component to show what exactly you talking about. 30 seconds and I was out.

worst video angle i have ever seen for a tutorial xD

Come America.. join us in the 21st century....wago's are the "way to go" 😂😂

Or .... you might purchase a ( one off , UK / Europe , 230 Volt bulb ) and connect it between BLACK and RED .... which would work OK , without the WHITE neutral needed ( a trans Atlantic business deal here ? ) Ha - Ha .. DAVE™🛑

That was exceptionally confusing. Might want to tailor your content to fit a slightly wider/dumber audience (pls).

The real problems were left out from the video. This shows only an open neutral if it broke while turned on already, and the load is well balanced. Those LEDs are fairly equalized in load, so the voltage will not fluctuate. BUT. Once you try to start them like this, their on-time will vary and there WILL BE a voltage imbalance between the 2 sides, which will lead one side to stay dark, while the other side will get way too voltage and blow out (and i suspect, one by one, but quite quickly) And this does not only apply to LEDs, incandescent bulbs vary in resistance as well. You can do this experiment on 12V by using 2 incandescent car bulbs in series and try to run them from 12V. at around 80% of the times only one of the 2 bulbs will glow. (Kind of random) - This is a way safer experiment than using 220V, in my opinion ... If you run them from 24V, one side will surely blow almost instantly, so run them from 12V , 2 bulbs in series. Had once a car which some "smart" mechanic wired 2 relays in series to control the headlights. It worked when you switched it on first, but once you tried to use the flash, and cut off the electricity for a split second, it went dark. Took me about a half an hour to figure it out, as i did not expected such stupidity.

First like 👍 👌

Wondering where ya got the 3 phase 208V WYE source... it is going to be 220V as there no 3 phase power judging by the distro panel you showed, ie 220v center tap neutral single phase or did I miss something? It could be but ya seem to be showing more residential stuff not industrial.

Does this guy have any clue at all about what he's doing?

American electricians have a lot to learn from western European practices.

Now unbalance the load and see what happens. Unscrew 3 of the 4 bulbs on one branch only, leaving all four bulbs on the other branch screwed in.

"An open neutral"

Thank you

Hmmm Okay, So are you saying that each set of four are wired as normal (in parallel) and the two sets are then in series? Yes its interesting but a tiny bit more clarity would be helpful. And although these bulbs are LEDs they are still simple devices. I once was having work done on my house and the worker snagged and broke the neutral Service Entrance Conductor, That fried every electronic appliance in my house...expensive mistake for sure.

D

The Wago you are showing is a 773 series. I've never used them, but I've heard good things about them. I use both the Wago 221 lever nuts and traditional wire nuts and have no issues with the 221's. I seen some testing where they hold their own up to 40 amps which is double their rating. The convenience factor and easier when troubleshooting are big pluses. Wire nuts give you a greater surface area contact when done properly and are cheaper. When it comes to pre twisting I always pre twist with 12 gauge and 14 gauge I find it to be optional. Btw, wire nuts are not just a cap, they are to tightened with significant effort, but not overdone, and are part of the joint, hence the metal cone inside.

Yes, but on a single pole switch it doesn't matter which wire goes to which screw.

15 amp duplex receptacles can be used on 20 amp circuits.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge

Thanks for sharing your knowledge

Thanks for sharing

Nice demo.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge

Looks good man!

U should post ur normal longer videos not under Kids so that we can make comments and questions!! Love ur channel!! :)

We use the clip on Wago and never had a problem. We never use the push-in type tried them once and found they were not suitable for our work. But the clip-on’s are great. Try them I think you will agree. Regular wire nuts also can loosen. Back in the day we soldered the connection and friction tape it they never came loose. Some say the solder would melt and brake the connection I doubt that would happen since if it did you would have a lot more issues than solder going on.

Wow i never nee this good job 👍💪

Simple easy. Good explanation.

Thanks for da info bro

lol congrats. you filmed a video on how everyone does it.

Please do not try and teach people electrical wiring on the internet that’s how fires get started

Definitely should’ve done a RS cover instead of a P ring

3 way switch

Well why did you use 14/2 NMB that’s rated for only 15 amps with a 20 amp receptacle? The jacket should yellow.

Did you install a 15 amp or a 20 amp switch?

🤮

Why don't you just get the receptacle that you stick it in the little hole on the back and you don't have to hook it. ?????

Do the hooks have to face the same direction? 😮

Just use Wagos

Should’ve used the bender angle setter 😂😂 informative video make more asap!!

Damn daddy ❤🔥