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This quick method is great if you are experienced and know the car just by feel. I did remove wipers, plastics and metal cowling on my Jazz and did not break anything. I had to replace the upstream oxygen sensor and thought I may as well do the plugs. I cannot see how you could torque-up with all the bits in the way. Also you could easily cross-thread or drop crap in the cylinders.

How do I know if it’s just a cable or if it’s the gearbox that is ruined completely?

2nd Gen fits have a nasty habit of ejecting undertorqued spark plugs, and you're not fitting a torque wrench under the cowling. If you're a shifty mechanic who is not worried about what happens to the customers car once it leaves the shop, go ahead and half @ss this repair. If you're a good mechanic, or a DIY person who wants to do the job right, spend the extra hour and take off the cowling. If you think taking out the plugs is a pain, wait until you try to get a Helicoil in there.

Okay 😂

Didn't mention anything about them two belts laying there

Thank you so much. . Easy job. . . Jubiiii. Long and small arms will be perfect

This is exactly what I did. Put too much crap in the back…dang it!!

How about you pull the wheel off. Than take off the 2 bolts that go from the lower shock support to knuckle. Literally takes 30 seconds and no new bolt needed.

this bold will never goes off in rolling so it is security you have to remove the control arm!

Used to work at a Toyota dealership, not as a licensed mechanic so take that for what it’s worth. I used to just pull the wheel off, pull the control arm bolt that goes to the knuckle and bend the control arm down to get the bolt out. Takes about 5 minutes with power tools if you’re taking your time and yeah I’ll never understand why they didn’t put the bolt in the right way from factory lol.

No bruh, it doesn't come that way. Probably another mechanic changed the bushings or control arms and switched them.

Flat rate technicians love this. Book time is 2 hours but they get it done in 15 minutes

Toyota super shitters

I would tell Toyota that they owe me 2 bolts so that I could fix my car properly because there assemblers built it wrong so now they can fix the problem

Twist it problem solved

Insane that they make shit like this on purpose so you need to go to the dealer if you don't have a shop.

What year car is this? I see it has black plastic intake manifolds. My 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L V6, you would think, should be the same. Yet when I put an inspection camera in to observe the oil pressure sensor, I cannot see it. My Hayes repair manual says the sensor for a 3.5L V6 is at the oil filter - but I don't see it there either. Having the hardest time locating this sensor for my 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L V6 - no one seems to have the right pictures. Still, your video comes closest to having the right information for my situation.

Not very helpful when you don’t show us the process of removal

Wait, WHAT?!! Did you make a full video of that?!! Is it the same on a 2009??? HELP!!!!!

I'll try thanks 🙏

how did you take the serpentine belt off?

Complicated,just take out pasenger headlight and take it out trough there

Love it short and sweet

My air box is putting mine in a bind trying to figure out where exactly its located thanks

Tools ?

Really so do I need a swivel head

For some models it's not that simple. Mine has 8 plugs. They are not all easy to reach 😢

What an ahole, didn't show the process

What takes off the 4 bolts?

Thos is how you explain how to do it .going straight to the problem n step by step...to other learn from this guy how to explain and go straight to the problem.Great job.

This has to be it. I never got around to giving a bunch of stuff to the thrift store and it’s been in my trunk 😂 thank you! It worked!! Thanks again!!

Will this work on 2007

Thanks dude!! You saved me so much time! Pulled and replaced all four coils packs and plugs in about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker had I ever done it before.

Fck my car 😭. Thank you for the video though 🙏🏻 I can appreciate the pain this sht is for a mechanic now.

Thanks. This helped a lot when I did this job on my 2011 Kia Sedona. For those facing this job (and I'm not sure this applies to a Santa Fe, but it did on my Sedona), the best tool to unscrew the pressure sensor is a non-impact 3/8" drive 15/16" deep well socket with a swivel attached. I tried a 15/16 box end wrench, which only allowed for a couple degrees of movement (not even enough to break it loose), and the sensor hex may be in a position such that you won't even be able to get the wrench on. I also tried a 1/2" drive socket, which was too big to work into the position where it could be placed over the sensor hex. The slightly shorter length of the 3/8" drive socket carried the day. I also recommend that if you place shop towels into the intake to keep stuff from falling in while doing the job that you make sure to remove them before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.

This is wicked, until the first time he scrapes his undercarriage and wrecks those cables. 😅

If only you talked about removing the cooler...🤷‍♂️

My 🥷!!!

Fuckin hate these cars

Thanks! I can’t believe I didn’t check those connections already

How do you get that little black “rubber” nipple piece covering the ground on back of the alternator?

To much explaination !!!! but no video about taking out the alternator and putting it back.. its not helping... worst!

Odd... our 2014 Jetta AC is above the alternator. Oh well! That other video sounds horrifying!

Now that's service!

where did you find that exact tool?

I don’t understand not he talking about. Nothing

Idk why Honda decided to put the engine car back

Just changed the alternator on my 2009 Rabbit. Didn’t use a lift and I did disconnect the battery (charged it during the work). Be sure to replace any damaged or dinged up pulleys. I had 2 that I replaced. Replaced the two belts. When staging the alternator for install, prop it on a box under the car, burnish the power wire fitting so it’s clean and shiny, connect the power wire and connector. From ABOVE, reach down and pull the alternator up into position. It’s a tight fit against the fan blades and shroud and this allows better viewing of what (if anything) the alternator is hitting on the way into position. Get it into place and attach to the bracket with the two alternator bolts. Reinstall all of the pulleys and tensioners in reverse order from disassembly. LABEL EVERYTHING you remove and take pics to make RW installation easier.

I'm a mobile mechanic myself

Thank you man, you save me 😊