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good question. to my understanding, if there is some sort of problem or fault within the fan circuit, whether it be a component or the wiring, this will not bypass that issue. the only thing that comes to mind is.. let’s say the problem is that the pcm isn’t supplying power to this wire when it’s supposed to, you would technically be bypassing it and supplying it externally, but if that were the case, you would likely have many other issues. simple answer is most likely not, it would be best to address why your fans aren’t working in the first place. the reason behind doing this modification is to control when the high speed fans come on, assuming a good condition circuit/system

glad to hear that man

Same

mine did the same thing a few weeks ago I got my SCT scanner and got an email tune from ortiz performance for $300 and they made me an email tune that deletes the pats completely and it worked the key fob doesn’t work anymore but I don’t have to worry about the anti theft anymore

that wouldn’t have to do with the fuse, you could have a problem with the ring around the ignition that isn’t reading your key properly or the key itself.

go over it again and ensure you’re hooked up correctly. previous body style to new edge might have different wiring i’m not sure. this was done on a new edge body style

go buy some scotch lok’s. that’s what i used, showed it in the video. no need to strip back the wire, there’s a blade in the scotch lok that pierces the insulation and makes a connection

@@mkvingti that’s so cool thanks!

still works as it should. good question lol

a little more input on your question, i talked about the pcm kicking the fans on themselves during the video and i can confirm the fans will still kick on, at the predetermined temps, if you don’t turn the switch on.

yes. this video demonstrates the switch powering the fans at high speed. you would need to look at a wiring diagram and determine which wire you would need to splice into to control the low speed instead of high like i showed in the video

@@mkvingti appreciate the feedback, I just purchased a factory Ford electrical and vacuum service book for my 95 probe gt so that should help!

@@Tantobuds619 should lead you in the right direction. i would look into forums if you want to dive deeper in your research. a lot of the information i know is from reading what others have done in the past

if you’re getting smoke out of the fuse box, the fuse box is damaged and you need to start with a good one ideally. maybe you can take it apart and find out what is burning that’s causing the smoke.

glad i could help

did you solve the problem?

@@mkvingti unfortunately no, I replaced the 30 amp circuit, now the fuel pump kicks on, but it's still cranks blinking theft

@@georgemanzur6789did u find out the solution

happy to hear that. the fuse shouldn’t pop out of no where though, i would be lead to believe that you have some chaffed wire somewhere that rubbed as you turned and that’s what caused the fuse to pop. glad you got back on the road though.

I pinned a comment I made before to someone else. There’s a procedure to diagnose the issue by counting the number of times the theft light flashes. a certain number of flashes will correlate to a certain problem with the PATS system

you have some damaged wire somewhere i would believe. mine was with those little black boxes at the front of the valve covers. the wires chaffed and shorted on something, which is what made my fuse blow.

that could mean anything. im not sure what kind of scanner you’re using but i’d assume a loading circle means whatever process it was completing hasn’t been done yet. on one of the comments i posted, there’s a description on how to identify the problem you’re having with the theft system. once you identify the fault in the system then you can continue your diagnosis

i also don’t believe there is a way to just bypass it besides using an ecu that didn’t have the PATS system on it from factory or having someone modify your ecu to get rid of the function

watch the theft light after it stops flashing like crazy, it’ll stop and then flash a certain amount of times. you have to count the flashes and that number will tell you the problem

here’s something i found on mhhauto.com. some useful info posted by a user by the name of dashlab PATS SECURITY FLASH CODES 1 then 1 (11) - Transponder Antenna (ignition coil) has no power. Remedy - Fuse or replace faulty Antenna 1 then 2 (12) - Antenna Fault Remedy - replace faulty Antenna 1 then 3 (13) - Key in ignition is not a PATS key Remedy - replace with correct key 1 then 4 (14) - Partial code from key received Remedy - Check transponder for damage (usually seen with Glass transponders) 1 then 5 (15) - Invalid key code Remedy - Use programmed key or program key 1 then 6 (16) - CAN Communications error Remedy - Usually this is a blown PCM fuse but can be caused by faulty wiring / control module 2 then 1 (21) - Not enough keys stored in memory Remedy - Program additional keys. Most Ford from 2001 are 2 key system so must have a minimum of 2 keys programmed. Earlier systems must have 3 keys programmed. 2 then 2 (22) - Initialisation / Configuration missing Remedy - This code is rare but when seen it usually requires a faulty module replacing as if it was misconfiguration code would be 23 2 then 3 (23) - PCM & PATS modules do not agree Remedy - This is very common on the earlier Diesel systems especially Transit. Realignment of the modules is required with Ford IDS or capable tool.

You find the problem?

you have to first locate your fault. i commented somewhere here about the procedure of reading the theft light flashes, counting them and what they mean. that will help you narrow down the solution instead of guessing and wasting your time and money.

^

@@mkvingti i dont have a theft light problem, but my problems were 20 amp blown fuse Crank shaft sensor Camshaft position sensor 2 bad spark plugs / spark plug wires And now it cranks and starts maybe 10 secs and dies

not sure to be honest

thank you. hope it helped you in some way

i’m not sure but i don’t believe the PATS system stops you from cranking the engine. if that is true than i would start by checking your starter and battery if you got a no crank situation

i’m not sure, could be something to do with the device that reads the chip in the key but im just guessing.

yep. it’s good but if i were to do it again i’d go FDF. i have no clue what im talking about but i’ve read things about bad suspension geometry with the kit.

@@mkvingti yeah fdf is the way. i just noticed the boost gauge, are you running stock engine internals?

yeah. have an on3 turbo kit on 10psi. nothing crazy

Glad to know I helped

No, it kicks on at 200° without using the switch

Take it that's the low fan kicking on at 200?

yep. i think high kicks on later at like 228 or something, don’t quote me. either way it was too high and that’s why i wanted to control when it kicked on.

i’ve heard of that being a symptom of a pcm fault, don’t quote me on that though. just check the pcm fuse and other fuses. it’s easy and you won’t hate yourself later when it turns out just to be the fuse.

Same happens to my 2004 GT, fan Come on when you turn the key, did you find the problem with it?

your problem is likely elsewhere then. if your theft light is flashing and the miles shows --- then that means that the pcm isn’t getting any power. if your fuse is good, then you likely have damage to the wire from the fuse box to the pcm

@@mkvingti I just ran a scam and got a p1233 code for a fuel pump driver module I’ll try to tackle that next

if you are able to scan the car then your pcm not receiving power is 99% out of the equation. no power to the pcm usually means no connection to obd2. if you go and pull that 30A pcm fuse, you’ll notice your scan tool will not communicate with the car.

they do work, sometimes you got to mess around with the pins on the tool to get them to contact properly. if you have a multimeter laying around i would use that for a more precise diagnosis. to check the fuses with the multimeter, you set it to read resistance, and touch each end of the fuse. if you get OL then the fuse is blown but you should get a very small amount of resistance and it proves that there’s continuity throughout the fuse and it isn’t broken. but the reason i would also use the multimeter is because you can check how much voltage is getting to the fuse, your problem may not be the fuse but what is supplying the fuse with power and the fuse checker won’t tell you that.

@@mkvingti ahhhh okay okay I did end up checking with the multimeter but I did it with the fuse taken out I’ll try it while it’s on thanks for the tip!

yeah everything worked fine I believe, but at the same time, i wasn’t specifically testing those things. i was more concerned on why it wouldn’t start. a blown pcm fuse can cause a variety of problems im sure, easy to check and replace if needed.

I’m glad this helped you!