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เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2007
NNFS Spiral Dataset Modeled with 64 Neurons
An animation of the spiral dataset from Neural Networks from Scratch (Kinsley and Kukiela, 2020) using a layer of 64 hidden neurons with ReLU activation and an output layer of three neurons with softmax activation and a cross-entropy logarithmic loss function.
The dots show the (x,y) coordinates of the training data, with the three separate classes colored red, green, and blue. The background color shows the model's prediction of what areas of the field should match each class. each pixel is colored with a percentage of red, green, and blue according to the confidence that the model has for each of those classes at a particular point. Areas that are not bright red, green, or blue are areas that the model is still uncertain about.
The model starts as grey, essentially equal confidence for all three classes at each pixel, and learns from there which areas go with each class of data points. Each frame is 10 training epochs with stochastic gradient descent optimization. Accuracy is reported at a threshold of 90% confidence.
The dots show the (x,y) coordinates of the training data, with the three separate classes colored red, green, and blue. The background color shows the model's prediction of what areas of the field should match each class. each pixel is colored with a percentage of red, green, and blue according to the confidence that the model has for each of those classes at a particular point. Areas that are not bright red, green, or blue are areas that the model is still uncertain about.
The model starts as grey, essentially equal confidence for all three classes at each pixel, and learns from there which areas go with each class of data points. Each frame is 10 training epochs with stochastic gradient descent optimization. Accuracy is reported at a threshold of 90% confidence.
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The Real Reason Your Microwave Trips a Breaker When You Open the Door
มุมมอง 51K3 ปีที่แล้ว
The Real Reason Your Microwave Trips a Breaker When You Open the Door
woow.....salute king
You have just innovatively discovered a new method of Servicing microwaves, Congrats Sir. MJ in B'dos 😊
Bookmarked!!!!👍
EXCELLENT!!!!
Great video and great tip. Thank you.
thanks.
Damn, the switches on my Breville aren't nearly as easy to access. Also, my fuze keeps blowing when i plug it in.... Is it possible this switch issue would blow the fuze?
Yes, this is the best door switch issue video. I don’t know why it has taken so long to see this. I replace the switches and the latch / switch holder and the fuse still blew so I bought a new microwave. I wish I would have seen this video prior to doing that. However the fuse would blow when the door was completely closed as soon as I turn it on. So I am wondering if it is indeed another issue with the unit.
The one thing I'm not seeing in many of these repair/explanation videos is that you shouldn't be opening the door while the microwave is running. These switches are for safety. The reason full current is running through these switches is so that it can be dumped instantly when you open the door so you don't fry yourself. Always, always, always stop/pause the microwave before opening it and you should never run into this problem.
Hands down best video and explanation on this subject! Thank you 🙏
Thank you, sir. You're one very smart gentleman.
This was very helpful. Thank you so much.
Excellent. Tested all switches and wasn’t sure what to do next. Worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Thank you for this helpful video and narrative! Glad (sad) to see so many others with the same problem I had. At first, it started tripping my circuit breaker if I opened the door while it was running. Then it got worse and would trip if I started the oven (about 3 seconds, after the fan starts blowing and just as the magnetron kicks in). As a few others have noted, the latch board (which holds the switches) has two "ramps" that the door hooks "ride" up and over when closing the door. After years (7 in my case), those plastic ramps wear down and the top-most edge wears off unevenly, allowing one hook to fall before the other (causing the timing issue). I considered building that plastic back up but decided to just buy a new latch board (~$45 bucks, part# WB06X10610) as well as a new set of switches (~$10: 2xNO, 1xNC, for good measure) both from the online shopping A-beast. If you go this route, just remember to transfer the pawl/lever from the old board (near the bottom switch) to the new one (it isn't included). And be SURE to DISCONNECT THE POWER, of course. Also, check the glass fuse at the top front, behind the metal grill (125V 20A). So, about $60 after tax - still so much cheaper and easier than a service call, new microwave, or a DIY repair with melted plastic or glue (imho). But I agree - design flaw. Someone should 3D-print these latch boards and make a mint...
I am having a similar problem. I just wanted to clarify, even though you did not open the door when the microwave was running, you still had the problem? I always hit the stop button before opening the door but I am still having the blown fuse issue. I just wanted to make sure that you can have this problem even if you only open the door after you hit stop. Thank you so much for the info and help!
Excellent resource. Thank you for you help. Best video on the subject I've seen. Much appreciated.
This is awesome!!! I talked to his wife, and it really works, guys!!!
Einstein of the microwave! You must be an electrical engineer or self taught like Felix Wankel, father of the Wankel rotary engine. Solved my problem second time around.
Mic-down over 2 years, button was locked because of grease freed it, Now it is working fine.thanks!
This is the best solutions of all I been seen. Thank you man. 5:46
It's close to midnight and I came across your video after hours of trying to find out why my switches were fine, but the breaker kept tripping. I did exactly as you suggested by adding a second screw, pushing the housing for the switch back and using a thick plastic tie to keep it pushed in. I've plugged the microwave in and voila, it works like a charm. I repeatedly opened and closed the door and there were no longer any issues. I was actually completing an order for a switch holder from Amazon before the magic solution so thank you ever so much. By the way, my microwave is the Frigidaire Gallery and the flaw with the door is exactly as you described it.
you can also remove the secondary switch entirely from the equation, and leave it constanly open. found this little tid bit out when i had to fix mine. also the relay switch for the control bored can be removed and wired fully on.
sorry i also forgot that i had taped the primary switch to be fully closed at all times too. basically fooling the mic to think the switchs are actually all working properly yet none are really doing anything.
I have a LG microwave that does not have power. I love my microwave and believe it may be a fuse. I don’t know how to get to the fuse. The model # is LMVM2277ST. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
Start from the AC Power Cord Plug. Hot = Small Lead (Black), Neutral = Large Lead (White), Round Lead = Green wire Follow those wires into the microwave (you have to disconnect the AC Plug from wall & remove cover). Once you have located those three wires or use an ATG meter, the 20 Amp Fuse (white with metal on end) is parked Reply with email if you need more help to save you $600.00
The Solution is to stop the Microwave before you open the door as you should ❄️😂
I watched your excellent video but forgot to make your modifications when I installed my new switches and fuse in my Bosch 5000 series over the range microwave. I put a glass of water in and heated it for 1 minute. Opened the door and verified the water was hot. Then I put it back in to test how the stop switch worked hoping that pressing it would act like a pause so I would never have a reason to open the door with the unit running. It just turned the microwave off so that wasn't going to work. We would just have to remember how much longer we had set. So with the unit off I opened the door and pop. Fuse blew and lights off. That was a surprise. I hate to spend $629 for a new one with 10% of the reviewers complaining about blowing fuses so now I will try your modifications and test with a battery and oscilloscope so I am sure to catch the switch issue and can be sure once I make the mods that I am good to go. I was really surprised then the fuse blew with the microwave not running.
I finally fixed my microwave and in addition I know why it really failed. The way the design is done, the top switch disengages as soon as the door starts to open. It is triggered by the tip of the upper door latch. The monitor switch (the center switch) is triggered by the side of the lower door latch. As the door is opened, the latch slides out so that this switch can't engage until the latch is almost all the way up against it's spring. The problem is that as this latch rubs on the piece that holds the switch, it wears a grove in that part of the latching mechanism. As soon as the grove gets deep enough, the switch will activate because it is no longer being held against the switch if there is any twist in the door. I replaced the part that holds the switches. It costs about $10. With the new part, the door cannot twist and the monitor switch cannot activate. I also replaced the latch prongs as there was a small amount of wear there and that part was more expensive. I probably spent about $60 total what with having to buy the switches twice.
Nice !
so wait is the BOTTOM one suppose to lose contact BEFORE the top one? So in other words its tripping because the TOP one loses connection before the bottom?
Thank you!! We already replaced ours, but this is so helpful.
This exact thing started happening…. Technology these days is junk 😂
It's called pre-planned obsolescence, and it's strictly by design. We're in a no deposit, no return world now ... with our landfills expanding ever wider.
This is the best video I've seen on this topic. I've replaced the switch on my Bosch mw for the third time and thought I'd get another year or so... This time the breaker still tripped after putting everything back together. So digging deeper lead me to this video. I used a plastic bread bag shim on the top of the bracket to rotate it back. Without touching the switches the breaker no longer trips. I think I've been lucky with reassembly in the past giving the impression that a new switch solved the problem.
Wait so i may understand now, so the problem is one of the sensors is activating before the primary one in the middle. Is that is.
Please reply, this is my problem but if the microwave was always opened from the bottom of the handle, do i need to push and support the bottom instead of the top??
So if the microwave is hung above the over and the handle is pulled from the bottom, i probably need to push the bottom back , ya??
Great video , explained perfectly, gave me the ooohhhh moment of what's going on and I can replicate the same scenario to test my alterations. 10/10 my dude!!
I changed the spring in the door controlling those two pawls to a weaker spring. I then had to ream out the switch bracket holes on the microwave and add some popsicle stick shims over the microwave switches to make up the difference lol but its been tested 100 times she works
This is a real pain in the ass, and GE* should have recalled all these units and fixed this serious flaw in design. * Yes, I know that GE has nothing to do with consumer products other than selling its name, and you can substitute Haer or whatever the actual maker is for GE.
Excellent video. Thank you for your help!
Thanks for posting. I thought i was going nuts as i to y would opening the door trip the breaker. All my fault, opening the door while microwave running. Laziness to hit stop/ cancel has now costed me hundreds of dollar😢
Mine had the same switch "bad" (the middle one), but actually the switch was fine, no wear or malfunction, just bad mechanical design in that the door latch didn't quite press the switch actuator far enough. And of course no adjustment available. So I ended up drilling a very small hole in the center of the microswitch actuator and screwing in a #00 screw from an eyeglasses repair kit, thus adding about 1mm of height to it, enough so that when the door closed, the switch was activated correctly. Cheap design, a single DPDT switch with some mechanical adjustment available would have been the right way to go.
wonderful information! thanks! i changed out the monitor switch 2x and every time my son puts popcorn in the microwave, the breaker trips. I didn't understand why until the third time and now i believe vibration caused by the popping corn causes the door to vibrate/move in such a way that the switches no longer maintainthe correct position and trips the breaker. looks like this is more than just the switch, it's probably the door mechanism that's worn out. popcorn. i never thought :)
Great video. It also is OK, If you wait microwave to stop, then open the door.
thank u so much!
Will replacing the top and bottom switches help instead of replacing just the faulty top switch? Bottom switch is not faulty but 4 years old.
Thank you! 🇺🇸 😎👍☕
Thank you very much for sharing this video. I've been having intermittent problems with my OTR microwave. I replaced door switches several times now however, the most recent one didn't work even after replacing all 3 switches. It keeps tripping the breaker when I open the door. I tested all 3 switches and they all seem working right. I tried pushing the switch assembly as far back as possible and tried opening the door from the top and it worked. We have had this microwave for 7 years now and I don't believe in just throwing things away when they stop working. Thanks again and have a great day.
I can’t believe that shit worked 😮 , thank you!!!
This described my issue to a T. Thank you!
Could you just remove the monitor switch? The monitor switch is normally closed meaning that it has an open circuit when the door is closed. Removing the switch all together would simulate having an open circuit 100% of the time (magnetron would never be able to rapidly dump power at the opening of the door). I would think that as long as the door interlock switch to cut power is working properly, there should be no safety issues removing the monitor switch.
You da Man!
My microwave was blowing fuses when I opened the door. I thought it was the switch at first but it was operating normally though showing burnt spots on the contacts. I cleaned the switch and pushed back the plastic part on the top as you said and it's working again! I almost sent the microwave to the trash but didn't because of your video. Thank you so much for that little trick!
Excellent explanation - helped me resolve issue of fuse suddenly blowing repeatedly, yet all 3 switches are good. Found it was the door hooks had worn a groove in the switch housing so bottom hook was disengaging switch earlier than top switch - used some polyurethane 2 part adhesive and bonded a thin shim to rebuild and fill the groove
I've got two identical of these GE microwaves. One has the problem, the other doesn't. What I noticed is the door pulls harder on one that has the problem, which is why the "twist" happens. The other opens very easily and doesn't have enough stress on it to twist and therefore does not have the problem. So I'm going to do further detailed investigation, but I'm thinking it is actually a manufacturing defect or installation issue.