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No issue with the speedo, If you are having issues, i would check the sensor, wiring or cluster. When we did the swap we put a new sensor.

I used a dremel with a carbide bit or if you have access to a CNC machine.

a.co/d/hige3hC heres a similar item on amazon, but you can probably find it on ebay or aliexpress for less.

They are not the same.

I dont remember off the top of my head, but i believe you need to get the one that matches with your corresponding car year, IE if you have a 97, get a 97 ecu. A quick google search may also help.

It does not. It reuses all the OE exhaust hangers.

There is quite a few different ones out there but install is about the same. You can google "z32 to z34 akebono brake upgrade"

I took them off to clean off camera. Depending on your spring stiffness and length you may need to switch them to shorter main springs and or add helper springs (which i already have). This all depends on how much compression/ droop your cars has. For me, the helper spring give me about 2 inches of droop so that the cups can push the dampener back up when the car is on the ground. Hope that helps.

I have 18in wheels. Clears perfectly. Wouldn't recommend anything smaller.

Glad it was helpful!

18x 9.5+22 front and 18x10.5+15 rear

@@tougelab3996I know you also had to trim a piece off the calipers for the rear what exactly did you use to notch it?

We did not wire the safety switch as this is part of the body harness.

The cold start is loud but its not bad once warmed up. Drone is minimal

@@tougelab3996 could you pls post a video? Much appreciated!

You will probably need to. Clearance for the front sway bar maybe an issue as well.

@@tougelab3996 as far as a lift goes, should a 2 inch level kit get the job done or do you think i need an actual lift? Thanks for replying! havent been able to find any info on this anywhere

sorry additional question, do you think the spacers are necessary as well as a lift in order to clear the front sway bar? im only planning on going 30s, not 31s

Also what brake booster/ master cylinder combo did you go with?

The threads are on the adapter and there are no threads on the factory ears of the knuckles, So no. If you were to do it your way, you would still need a nut on the other side to received the bolt, which means you still need to notch it. Not to mention you will have to get the exact size bolt so that it wont protrude out and hit the rotor.

You can reuse what you have. We already had the chase bay booster delete kit, so we reused it.

It depends on your application so its hard to say for your case. Things to consider: 1. How much does your spring compress when the car is on the ground. 2. Do you have helper springs? 3. The aircups are limited to the amount of droop you have and of course the max lift the cups have. So if you only have 20mm droop and the cups max lift is 40mm you will only lift the car 20mm, the rest of the cup lift will just compress your spring. In our case, we have the helper spring the allows for most if not all of the droop. So the helper spring allows for about 40mm droop and is one of the main reasons why we added this so the main spring compression would not be a factor for us in terms of how much it lifts the car. The helper spring and extra droop also helps to keep tire contact on the track.

You can reuse your stock or aftermarket braided lines for the 240sx or z32. You will need to get the akebono banjo nut as the 370z sports brakes uses a different length.

We used 370z Sport rear rotors, you use the z32 e bake setup.

Hello, We have the chasebay booster delete kit.

P2M NISSAN S14 FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM

Please check video description

Rotors, calipers, and banjo bolt for 370z Sport, and Adapters for the car. Some trimming maybe needed for the caliper.

I cant recall which one we used be it was on amazon

valvoline multi vehicle grease

Yes it will lower the whole coilover about 40mm but that is not what they are intended for.

Rotor and hubs are plug and play. You will need a min. of 18in wheels to clear the brakes and rotors.

​@tougelab3996 what's the lowest offset you fit without having to go negative camber?

The sub harness is different and you need the HUD specific harness.

⁠@@tougelab3996 where can i get this harness??

We used the auto to manual harness.

There should be m6 x 1 threads on the subframe where you can bolt down the cable. If not you can also use some cable ties to tie it off to the side. I Initially had the cable rubbing, until i noticed and mounted it off to the side as well.

@@tougelab3996 i ended up just adjusting the gktech bracket forward pulling the cables making it have more tension/less sag so it doesn't rub

It works great we used 10mm corrugated, but can probably use 3mm. Unfortunately i dont have a template to sell you.

Can you share the plans or a drawing of the dimensions of the diffuser?@@tougelab3996

It's intentional. It"s met to let air out. You may have overfilled it (happened to us the first time). When bleeding it with the car running , we keep it topped off half way to two thirds full. Reason being, when the car is off and or when you turn the wheels with the car off the excess fluid fills back the revisor.

@@tougelab3996 did you top up until the little hole was filled? or just before it.

Ended up selling the car to focus on other projects.

@@tougelab3996 👍

To raise the cars heights the air cups push onto the spring. If there isn't enough shock length for the cup to move it will just compress the spring. To Follow us on IG: @TogueLab this, we decided to get helper spring that stay compressed when the suspension is loaded. This allows for droop in the shock for the air cup to expand. A shorter spring would work, but we would still need the helper spring to create the "droop" while keeping the main spring compressed. Another route you can go is to also get a softer spring that will compress 2in or so while loaded. On our car there isnt very much droop to begin with as we opted of higher spring rates for track application. Heres a helpful link: www.stanceparts.com/fitment/