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Nighthawk
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 ต.ค. 2007
Hawk 250 wire shorting fix
This could definitely leave you stranded in an efi. Hope it helps someone.
มุมมอง: 2 131
วีดีโอ
Hawk 250 Critical/Important Upgrades & Mods
มุมมอง 3.5Kปีที่แล้ว
This video is for all Hawk 250 owners and future owners. I'm not recommending that you get a Hawk but if you do please strongly consider most of the mods and upgrades highlighted here. This is not a performance upgrade video its for problems and quality control issues. I strongly feel many of these mods are for safety and certainly for reliability. I have yet to see anywhere that a full compila...
Hawk 250 sprocket damper bushing easy removal
มุมมอง 8502 ปีที่แล้ว
This video shows a trick to removing rear sprocket damper bushings on Hawk 250 motorcycles plus other bikes, mostly Hondas. This is an english narrated video borrowed from another on youtube. I apologize for saying that posted 'couldn't speak english.' I mean to say he didn't post in english and so salute to you friend and thanks for helping us. Please post below anything that helps make the vi...
Ford Ranger crossmember repair part 3
มุมมอง 2.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Ford Ranger crossmember repair part 3. The crossmember is really starting to come together and it shows a pretty good attempt at working around the existing crossmember. Also helps to get the clearances right for the gas tank.
Ford Ranger crossmember repair Part 4
มุมมอง 1.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This is really the last video to see if you're looking for the basic end result visual of the past videos. I tried to indicate what was involved in terms of labor and cost and some issues I ran into. See part 5 for a couple of things I forgot to mention but that video is mostly more of the same.
Ford Ranger crossmember repair Part 2
มุมมอง 2.9K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Some of the crossmember has been ground down here and theres some info on adding fresh metal material to the drivers side crossmember. This shows some of the serious frame rot that happens to the retractable spare tire part of the crossmember. I believe that area new is supposed to add some frame reinforcement. Once rusted it will fail inspection and needs replacing.
Ford Ranger crossmember repair Part 1
มุมมอง 6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video applies to the 2006 Ford Ranger 4.0 and addresses crossmember frame repair. It partially shows frame reinforcement, gas tank strap issues, and painting the rear frame. Please add comments below to make the 5 part video series better!
Ford Ranger crossmember repair part 5
มุมมอง 9222 ปีที่แล้ว
A repeat of part 4 but with some better footage of the gas tank strap repair and lower part of the crossmember. Also some thoughts on cost of the repair and what could have been done differently.
2001 Audi tt abs module removal
มุมมอง 17K9 ปีที่แล้ว
Audi tt abs module removal. Low quality overview with views of removed parts and abs module diy. Takes about 2 hours for an amateur. Volkswagen beetle and possibly other audi and vw cars have similar abs modules and removal procedures. Wrench to remove abs brake lines is 12mm not 12 inch. Socket to remove abs module from abs pump I believe is 3/32. Feel free to comment thanks for watching.
Windscreen Video
มุมมอง 55K9 ปีที่แล้ว
This three part video details and explains various issues associated with the Audi TT windscreen. In this case, a 2001 Audi TT windscreen is stuck in the open position. Theres some visual and verbal information about removing the belt, installing a new one, and some tips through the process. Use caution and don't be afraid to attempt this. Dealer estimate for replacing or fixing this likely wil...
Audi TT Washer Reservoir Repair/Fix
มุมมอง 37K9 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is an explanation for the DIY repair or troubleshoot of the typical failure or malfunction of 2001 Audi TTs washer reservoir. This may apply to other year TTs, other Audis such as the A4, A6 etc. It could help with basic knowledge of some VW vehicles as well. Dealership repair could cost several hundred dollars. This repair is very simple and if all parts are replaced as directed it ...
thanks for posting , first time welder as well ,,, cleaning up an 08.
When i worked in a garage i used to take spigot bearings out of crankshafts using this technique, with either Blu-Tac or even thick grease,, works well as long as the drift you use is a snug fit.
TY
Not sure if you are still active here. But if i replace my 15a fuse with a 30a will i be okay? Or will my bike explode
Fuses are to protect more important components and wiring further down the line. If you’re blowing that fuse, I’d highly recommend figuring out why. I’d also stick with the stock fuse size.
Fuses are to protect more important components and wiring further down the line. If you’re blowing that fuse, I’d highly recommend figuring out why. I’d also stick with the stock fuse size.
Fuses are to protect more important components and wiring further down the line. If you’re blowing that fuse, I’d highly recommend figuring out why. I’d also stick with the stock fuse size.
Fuses are to protect more important components and wiring further down the line. If you’re blowing that fuse, I’d highly recommend figuring out why. I’d also stick with the stock fuse size.
Fuses are to protect more important components and wiring further down the line. If you’re blowing that fuse, I’d highly recommend figuring out why. I’d also stick with the stock fuse size.
Those are your regrets???? Damn, I regret my career path and the one girl who got away. 😁
Thank you for this.
You can cheat a little bit with a smaller welder by preheating the base metal. Since you have access, its a pretty easy thing. Clean everything to bright bare metal first, then tack your repair piece in place. Now, preheat the area to be welded with a propane torch until its nice and hot. You don't have to get it to bright red, but a color change would be a good indicator. Move the propane torch out of your welding area, grab your welder and lay down a bead. The added heat will help get you better penetration and fusion with a smaller machine. Those tack welds will not hold long. And not to sound like a Safety Sally, please be extremely careful welding galvanized anything. The fumes from the burning zinc are very toxic. You welded outside which is good, but you should be wearing a respirator if you're welding galvanized steel.
All awesome pro tips many thanks!
Engine type had no effect on frames. 2.3 4-cyl got the same frame as a 4.0. There are differences in some older trucks where the rear transmission mount sits on the crossmember. 4wd and 2wd trucks have some mounting differences as well. The differentials are different so watch for mounting changes from generation to generation. But as a general rule, the frames are all the same, assuming the same wheelbase. (i.e. a regular cab 6ft bed 4-cyl truck will have the same frame as a 4.0l regular cab 6ft bed truck.) This makes me want to brush up on my welding and start making DOM tube crossmember replacements to help save these trucks. I have a 2000 3.0l that I want to fix up for my son when he's old enough. Luckily, I live out west so my truck is basically rust free.
Thank you!
Where did you get the dampeners? Local Honda shop or online?
Ordered through a local Honda shop.
Hello!. Thank you very much for the video, it's true...there isn't much information about it. I have a '99 TT, it has the oldest module, and I have to remove it because errors appear constantly, randomly... it's probably one of the small cables inside that is loose.... Questions...when You remove it, does the brake fluid splash? Is it advisable to open the wheel bleeders before disconnecting the pipes so that there is no pressure in the circuit? Have you removed the brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir? Any advice, I would appreciate it.
It’s been a long time since I made this video but if memory serves I just stuffed a bunch of rags under the module and disconnect it. It will leak some but it’s the highest point of your brake system. Also brake lines aren’t really under that much pressure it’s just a closed system. Power bleed your brake system after reattaching the module.
It’s been a long time since I made this video but if memory serves I just stuffed a bunch of rags under the module and disconnect it. It will leak some but it’s the highest point of your brake system. Also brake lines aren’t really under that much pressure it’s just a closed system. Power bleed your brake system after reattaching the module.
I have never tried it, but there are numerous videos on removing bearings, pulleys, etc with BREAD! Doing the dame thing as the play dough.
These generally fail because of lack of use when the top get tight, every part of your car should get at least.....at least!.... a once monthly operation including all the switches and operations, also the transmission controls, I am not a handyman like this guy ( he keeps calling the rear window "the wind screen" when only the front window is a " windscreen!!!!) I am a qualified mechanic with 55 years expirience. By the way do you know that 99% of motorists don't know that you should test your abs brake system on a regular basis ? Eg. Do a total panic stop preferably with passengers , but caution it has to be done on a deserted road so you don't get rear ended, do it at a speed of around 100kph or 60 mph brak hard, really hard and don't lift till the car has stopped
Thank you
The window he's trying to fix in this video is called a Wind Deflector per the manual. Not sure if we're confusing that with the soft top window (actual rear window).
Did you pass inspection? And what state do you live in? I have same issue for not passing inspection in Pennsylvania. Thanks
Yes twice. Talking to my certified mechanic at work, they really just don't want to see rust. Shiny new metal definitely screams somethings been fixed here. Thats why I used the paint. Anyway, can't speak for your area or what they want for inspections, but its fine here even at the dealership. Also, as I said constantly in the videos, just do it better than I did. Fabricate something more closely resembling what was there. Still dirt cheap, better than what you had, and 100% inspectable.
Great video mate. Finally someone who is straight to the point. Top man!
Thank you
👍
Love the shocks where did u buy them
Thanks. I think Amazon which had the best price. Bilstein 4600 series which is a very common and great upgrade of the Rangers lifted or non lifted. I have a 3 inch rough country lift and better tires and they work just fine.
Details: 2:30 replace tire tubes (both tires) 3:50 no Inner back splash 4:30 Grease bearing 4:45 replace damper bushing and bolt sprocket 5:10 Brake fluid 5:15: Seal airbox 6:35 Seal off wire harness 7:15 sealed airbox drain 7:45 Crank case stuff 8:25 valve lash 8:35 spark plug and resistor (heat resistant) 9:18 gas tank (fuel pump screws leak) 10:05 replace carburetor 10:15 replace intrument cluster 10:28 a proper amount of oil changes 10:50 Tighten all bolts and apply lock tight 11:16 grease swing arm bearing (add grease fitting) 11:32 change sprockets 11:40 adjust shocks 12:02 replace chain guide 12:12 chain tensioner is thin 13:05 reroute stuff away from engine (very hot) 13:35 stater wires 14:15 new headlight bulb 14:30 grease fitting to the steering stem 14:45 adjust clutch 15:05 oil cooler 15:40 new battery 16:00 new brakes Ending notes: It is worth the money don’t give up, the engine is very good, if you set it up and break the bike in properly it will run you 10s of thousands of miles. Weakness it’s about a 200 cc bike not a record breaking bike but just be safe!
Thanks for this Dawson. To lazy to do it myself
I'm putting my dlx hawk motor on an other project from a bike my dad wrecked, I got everything except the wiring , there's 6 questions I can't figure out where they go , I'm not getting any spark at all on my coil from kick start or electric start , do you happen to know what the colors are of the 2 wires running to the coil ? I wish I could upload a picture on here of all the wires I have that I don't know where they go , any help would be appreciated thank you
All I know after looking into getting one, is green=grounding wire. I hope this helps
Great advice on this, I’m considering picking up a DLX soon For those researching this bike or it’s cheaper brother the magician; just buy the Hawk. I have a magician and I’m on my 3rd gas tank replacement. No idea why either…I did just find out Yamaha does use the same parts on some newer 2023 bikes available here in the US so hopefully that fixes it. That being said after I get these issues fixed I will be trading the bike for a Honda grom
UPDATE: I recently had a break down involving a blown fuse causing zero power to anything. Turns out the wiring pod that runs front to back had three wires frayed and pinched where it runs under the gas tank and presses against the engine mount. I would highly recommend addressing this as you assemble the bike and even current owners. I'm certain due to the poor quality wires and shielding that the vibration and heat in this area will cause chaffing eventually. Add some thick wire loom or whatever to wherever it makes contact with metal etc.
Are those decals stickers?
Yes there isn’t any paint it’s all adhesives and they will peel over time.
@@DufussMan sweet. Thanks
Your bed will not sit right to high on the front
No there is a lot of air space over that crossmember and it sits just fine. Look through your rear wheel wells past the filler neck and you’ll see. Thanks
I have a '22 DLX and I set the valves to .004 on the intake, and .005 on Exhaust, it starts right away and idles as smooth as probably possible. I switched the plug with a "NGK Iridium IX Plug Number DR8EIX Spark Plug" from o'reilly auto. Rotella T4 15w40 oil for now at least. 17/45 gears and DID x-ring chain. that's it so far, all the plastic is kind of warped so nothing is straight, that bugs me. also the entire front headlight section doesn't mount right. I'm having fun with it so far though.
I second the valve lash values you're using and I also did the same plug, oil, and gears. Agreed on the plastic. My rear tail light plate area is about and inch off/warped from the center of the bike tire. Hey we paid 2k its time to swallow some pride. I'd add a few things that either didn't make my video or I glossed over it: Tighten spokes correctly Tighten the steering stem Replace lowest oil change bolt with magnetic Replace front shock fluid Plan to replace the Horn. My stock one died Address the voltage regulator ground and others. My Hawk ran weird occasionally, others have a no start. That solved that issue. Loctite everything esp the rear tail light area
@@DufussMan I want to replace my shock fluid still, also dielectric greased all the wire connectors on mine, forgot about that. I don't plan on cruising max speed as often as casually cruising around the neighborhood so I lowered my front shocks a little over 1/8 inch just so I can see gold on the tops because they're all the way up. slightly lowered for tighter turn response.
@@BIasterXD Awesome! I gotta do my front shocks too but am a little reluctant as its a bit of a process on the DLX. Will post a link to the other awesome youtubers that did some great videos on it. Did you notice much difference in ride quality and how it takes bumps after that mod Blaster?
Great video. Never thought about the splash guard. What about the chain though? Heard it's a good idea to change it out. Just one of those critical items for me on my bikes.
It’s a cheap chain but I have 4000 miles on my stock one. Tires, grips, pegs, etc etc you can swap out all you want and should. I tried to boil it down to what was essential. Thanks!
no offense but if you can weld, you can cut the rotten cross member one side at a time and weld new peices into it then wire wheel and smack the frame and corss member, then paint.. Please dont paint over that chunky rust, Buy yourself a 90$ flux core welder from harbor freight, and set it to 3-4 and high thatll weld 1/8th and 3/16th easy. This isnt safe, the cross members should be bolted to the frame, the welds you did are cold and itll pop off from any frame twisting
all of this was mention already by me through the course of the 5part videos I posted. please view them all before starting. None taken.
1.3 qts is the official amount. You can’t get it all to drain easily so add about 1 qt or maybe 1.1 qts
Wonderful video describing some of the problems you need to fix... But I do have one question how much oil do you put in this thing. I bought one for street riding but cant find an oil measurement anywhere.. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Can you buy a replacement cross member?
Last time I looked there was no official vendor (rockauto, summit, etc). I have seen them, hit or miss, by someone I think on ebay. I recall them being very expensive, as in close to $300. IMO that ends up being quite a lot considering if you're going to be cutting and welding anyway, you can cobble up your own crossmember for like $20. It seems like a tricky job but really getting the bed and gas tank off are the hard parts. Just use a tape measure and check your clearances. Theres a decent margin for error
I’m looking at one that this needs replaced. This helps. Thanks
Thank you!
You need a little more welding practice
I noted that repeatedly through all the videos. Thank you
POR-15 is a great product, I'm painting my 2002 Ranger frame and bed with it. I had a lot of rust on my truck too, all those old Rangers have that problem. Were you able to pass the state inspection after all the work you've done on your truck?
Yes it passed. The final outcome was far more sturdy than OEM and that’s what they’re looking for.
I think this will work for the Yamaha RD400. Let me know if it does and I'll add it to the description.
thanks
I have the exact same audi exact same color
How do you get all of the plastic trim out of the way to work on the wind deflector?
You very gently pull that apart
Steve...your's in the only video informative on how to even attempt this that I could find on TH-cam. Any other links would be appreciated so I don't mess this up trying...... or reassembling. Question. My window is in the stuck down position...belt is torn destroyed.... Your's was stuck up. I have not attempted to start yet. Are there two springs to assist the raise/lower function? And finally, does your window actually now go up and down?
Oh,.... one more question....and what did you use to replace the rivets you drilled out? New rivets or simple screw and nut fasteners? I have subscribed.
@@boscojacko2485 I'll have to give you my best guess since my TT has been in storage for the winter and I don't remember the specifics from this repair video that I did years ago. I believe you can raise or lower your window with the gears on the side. I would be tempted to leave the window in the down position or crank yours down. Find the appropriate socket. Maybe you go from side to side raising or lowering slowly. If you do replace the belt I think you just put the new one on and you're back in business. I'm not sure about any springs. My window window is down permanently. I don't remember what screws you use to replace rivets or even if you have to. I would have used anything I had laying around.
Thanks man, exactly what I need. Also my TT has problems on the convertible roof. Do you have some tutorial for that?
I'm from Maine as well Augusta area but have grown up in Virginia for the most part I just recently bought an Audi quatro TT 2001 no 1 and the guy that I bought it from busted the glass out of the top so I have to replace the top and freaking out about that because I'm a single mother of 2 teenagers and have no clue I don't think I can do that on my own but after all the stuff I've seen on TH-cam and all these other social media outlets about the Audi quatro Oon soft tops I'm kinda panicking at this point but it's my baby now I've bought it it's mine and I can't let it sit in the yard with a top with no glass.
Hi Michele. The canopy glass is a different issue entirely from this diy video but I'll try to help. You are correct there is no way to replace the glass in the TT convertible canopy (as well as most fabric convertibles). Believe me I know I went through this. Unless you turn it into a summer/garaged only vehicle, you will need to replace the top or put a for sale sign on the car and walk away. Its an expensive and complicated thing to repair and usually only specialty shops will do it. Google convertible replacement shops and call around for quotes.
Hi Michele, you should find an auto upholstery shop to sew in a flexible plastic window. Older convertibles used to have plastic instead of glass for the back window. It can be done so it is watertight (relatively… :-) This is much cheaper and easier than replacing the top. Of course it isn’t factory but it will enable you to enjoy the car. Hope this helps!
Does the windscreen belt enable the power soft top to function? I know there are two different switches. I have a 2002 TT Quatro and it only worked briefly...but later I noticed that maybe the windscreen function and the soft top are related, but only if the belt isn't broken. Is this true? Thanks for community feedback.
The simple answer is no they are independent systems. My soft top functions normally after this delete.
Why does it have two pumps?
how to remove the gray cover
Note to anyone, always check the bottle I replaced all in the vid and it still leaked, turned out the bottle was at fault. Way to tell fill with water and push on the plastic brackets.
Thanks for the effort. My 2007 TT (3.2 V6 with 212,000 km / 132,000 miles) was starting to indicate that windscreen reservoir bottle low on fluid when around 2/3 to 3/4 full. Cleaned that sensor, problem solved. Also good to know where those pumps are located as I'm sure It's only a matter or time before I'll need to swap out one of them.
using the "straight................." What???? Open your mouth a little. Thank you
Finally found a Audi TT washer fix! Thank you Thank you Thank you
Really good advice and the comments are useful too. What great people the TT community are. I am looking to buy my first TT and have been doing research to see what to avoid. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Very helpful video, saved me some grief, gave me the confidence to have a go.. I can now add to the body of knowledge; 1. When removing the cover (bit of trim that the roof slides on), the two mysterious clips hold the horizontal bar and the plastic corners together. They hook into the underside of the bar and clip into the plastic bit - flick off with screw driver, clip back with the smaller hook into the bar, 2. When putting back together replacing the trim is easier with the roof up and then down to put the clips back. 3. If you want to just lower the glass (never to use again), you can do it without drilling out the rivets. Once you’ve got the snapped belt out, lower with power (drivers side will go mostly down). Look into the mechanism on the passenger side from above (non moving side). Small square ‘window’ through which you can see the white plastic gear teeth. Using a small flat head screw driver you can push the gear round using the teeth (very easily), when it gets hard use the power to lower the drivers side and repeat, it’s soon out of the way (forever). You can always get a new belt and save the drilling* for another day.
thanks for the link and part # !!!!! cheers 02/tt roadster...
any links to get the gears?