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The instructions said to mount it in the front for air flow. Plus once you close the hood it will be mostly covered. This isn’t my daily car so I’m not planning on riding in the rain and the connectors they give you are insulated which only connects to 3 pins on the module.

@@John-d2r1k when you buy the terminator X kit it comes with the extension

I just added the link for the USB cables. The apple/android car play app is on the Boss radio. Just plug the 2 USB cables to the 2 cables on the Boss radio. Once you get everything installed just plug in your apple or android phone to the USB port for it to work. Make sure you connect both cables because only 1 is for charging only and the other is for the apple/android car play and a phone charger.

@@DarkFoxx88 Thank you so very much for your quick reply and valuable information! I have subscribed to your channel. God bless you and your family today and always.

Which harness? I have engine harness and a harness for the o2 sensors

latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/ATM-7007.pdf

latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/5.0%20Resto%20Cluster%20Wiring%20Guide.pdf

At first yes. The motor is brand new with all new parts on it. My timing was off a little and I switched my IAC to a gm style and forgot to switch over. My car is also NA setup. The 3 bar works great for all applications even NA. Not only is it just getting vacuum from your manifold but it’s also going to send signal to the computer so it knows how much load the engine is under.

So far no issues

@@patnappo the only wire I extended was the starter cable. You can buy like 10ft of 4 gauge wire on amazon and cut to length. Stock wire for the starter was to short and I used 84-86 Mustang positive battery cable since it’s longer then the 87-93.

@@smokey6901 LMR.com. It’s a digital gauge cluster called Invision by Autometer

There’s really no special order with connecting the wires to the block. Just take all your original wires that are going to your solenoid and connect them to your block. For the positive battery cable use one from a 84-86 mustang since it is longer then the 87-93. You wanna make sure it’s long enough to make it to the block which is going to give it power. The starter wire I just used a 4 gauge wire from amazon since the stock wire is to short. If you have other aftermarket accessories just run all your power wires to the block and cut to length. You can also get a black distribution block and run all your ground wires to it. To make it easy just label each wire so you know what each one goes to but really no special wiring order.

do this starer needs mounting shims?

Glad my video was helpful. Also if your Explorer is NOT 4 wheel drive it’s easier to get to without the front differential in the way. If you’re just gonna tap it with a hammer you can easily crawl under the front driver side and tap it without taking the tire and splash shield off like I did.

No shims needed

@@DarkFoxx88what side do I tap because I tap mine and I only had one turn but it didn’t start

@@RCProperties-c3r so tapping your starter with a hammer is only a temporary fix. Sometimes it works and sometimes it won’t depending on how old your starter is. You can lightly tap the side of the starter while someone turns the key. You can also try tapping the solenoid which is the small section where your wires connect to. DONT tap on the wires with the hammer. You can check your wire connections as well make sure there clean and nice and tight. If none of these work I highly recommend just replacing the starter so you don’t have to worry about getting stranded and save yourself the headache.

I probably should have mentioned in the comments instead of in the description. Everything I did was wired correctly. The thick black wire is power and the small is ground. Seeing black wires I kept saying ground 😂. I changed a starter in my buddies 04 Explorer and his power wire was red and same on my Mustang. I realized after I posted so I mentioned it in the description.

I just finished wiring my AC to the stock foxbody wiring. All I did was get 12V from the original harness pigtail next to the brake booster. Look for the Green with purple wire. This is the one that comes from the MaxAC switch. From there send 12V to the low pressure sensor. Connect to one of the two wires. Then connect another wire from the low pressure switch to your AC compressor. Finally ground the compressor. AC works perfect without additional harness.

@@El_5Zero doing it that way bypasses term x All together?

​@eljefe347 I simply wired the stock mustang wiring to the AC Compresor. The holley system is only needed to tell the engine to raise the rpm at idle and to turn on a secondary fan to help with cooling down the condensor. I will be wiring in the holley eventually because the idle does drop a bit when the compressor turns on. If I turn it on while driving, no issues at all.

My car doesn’t have ac at the moment so I ordered the kit from LMR. I will be making another video soon as far as wiring everything up.

I always thought the horn just had a fuse. I never realized it had a relay until I saw it on LMR. I’m glad this video helped you out.

When you switch over to the 3 bar MAP you click yes so the scale sets automatically.

Perfect. I thought u had to Manuel change some things as well. I got the holley 2 bar but same concept

Absolutely. Whatever your switching over too it will update the scale for you.

Thanks man

Did you get your alternator bracket from Jegs? They have cheaper versions on Amazon which aren’t as good but double check to make sure you’re putting the different length spacers in the right spot. Jegs has a diagram as far as which spacer goes where.

Awesome! Hope this video helps. When your done installing get a string and go around your pulleys so you can get a measurement for serpentine belt so you know what size to get. 👍

The ac kick is going to hook up to the white w/ blue wire on the Holley input/output connector. These kits are universal so either you’re going to have to cut off your old connectors or you can go on LMR and pick up new connectors for the cycling switch and compressor. I believe the factory connector for cycling switch has 3 wires a greens w/ black and 2 pink w/white. You’re going to hook up to the green w/black and only 1 pink w/white.

There should be 2 green with white stripe wires on the driver side behind the kick panel. If not you can check on the passenger side kick panel there should be a grey with a black stripe going to the pcm. Those are the only 2 options that I know of.

Thank u

It’s funny you said you were having issues with your front speakers. I had the same problem with mine. My front driver side speaker and rear passenger speaker kept coming on and off once in awhile then finally just stopped working. Must be common problems with these Explorers. Glad you enjoyed the video and good luck installing your new radio and speakers. Hope this video helps out.👍

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I haven’t test fitted the new hood just yet. I had to install all new brake lines so it’s easier for me to work without the hood. Everything is almost complete. When I had my 3 inch cowl hood which was a cheap $200 hood I never had any clearance issues but it didn’t line up to well. I didn’t like the gap between the hood and fender. What kind of intake tube do you have? The bbk intake I have didnt rub on the cowl hood plus I have a 1 inch spacer on the intake manifold and cleared no problem. I looked under the new hood and it follows the contour of the outside. I will have a video once I install the new hood and let you know plus the 351 is going to be a back up motor. I just dropped in a brand new 306. Your dark shadow blue sounds almost like the same color as mine. Do you have the blue interior?

You have to set it manually. When you go under settings you select speedometer then select set odometer and type in the mileage. Once you set it and hit OK you get 3 try’s in case you make a mistake. You only have 500 miles to custom set your mileage. After that you CANNOT make changes.

The Dakota Digital are nice as well. The only think I don’t really like is wiring everything to the control box and then trying to find a good spot to mount it.

I got both flashers from LMR. On the description it says for turn signals and emergency flasher. Is there a difference? Also I reinstalled the original switch and still the same problem. I also have a 130 amp alternator and new battery which should be plenty of juice.

I buy all my parts from LMR. I don’t like to buy off brand parts on Amazon. My blinkers use to be very slow to where they would barely blink. Ever since I replaced both flashers and put in a brand new battery this is the fastest I’ve seen them blink. I live in Maryland and I keep my car garage kept as well

It might be hard to see but I have 2 oil sensors on there. One for the digital dash and the other for the Holley terminator X. Unfortunately I had to add a t fitting plus a few adapters. I had to use a 3/8in from the log to a 1/8in adapter for the sensors

I always like to do some researching before making any changes and I watched a few videos on swapping out the stock IAC since they always seem to have issues with idling. Apparently the one I’m using now works way better. I’m glad to hear this one works better then stock. Does your Cobra idle better now that you got rid of the stock IAC?

wait a second, i too have a 98 cobra that i am supercharging and swapping to a holley, im still researching stuff and randomly found this video. so if i read your comments right the stock IAC is going to be a no go???? man if thats the case thats crazy i randomly found this video. thank you!

I am using a 40 Amp relay

Not sure just yet. I’ve been getting everything finished up. The motor is brand new. I just put all new suspension and upgraded the brake system. Hopefully I’ll have it fired up soon. I’ll keep you posted and let you know how it works out and yes the Holley setup was very easy to install. I’d recommend getting it soon since prices are going up on everything. I paid about $1200 from LMR. Now it’s almost $2000 for it. Keep in mind if you end up going Holley you won’t be needing Mass Air setup. It’s setup for speed density.

Yes you will tap into to VSS ( Vehicle Speed Sensor ) wire which will be a green with yellow stripe that I mention in the video. Since it’s digital cluster you will no longer use the old speed cable. You can also check out LMRs video on how to install a digital gauge cluster which is basically the same but different brand gauge clusters.

Unfortunately I don’t have videos on the build. I never really thought about making videos or just in the moment I forget to film what I’m doing. I’m not using any special cameras just my iPhone and still learning how to edit videos lol but if there’s anything you want me to go over let me know

@@DarkFoxx88 oh ok, sounds good. Thanks!

Good video, what terminal bar did you use and where did you get it. Thanks

Yes this video is more for 1987-1989 owners. The wire colors on the 1990-1993 are a little different. Thanks for subscribing.

Thanks! I try not to skip anything and try to explain everything step by step so it’s easier for everyone to understand and yeah I guess I’m kind of a neat freak. I try to keep my car spotless inside and out 😂

No it’s just a 306 SB Ford with all new aftermarket parts. Nothing to crazy and as of now it has a/c delete because at first I couldn’t find the ac add on for the Terminator X so originally I was just gonna do without ac until I found this add on harness. Honestly I’m not a fan of putting a Chevy motor in a Mustang. I would recommend putting a 7.3 Godzilla motor in it for only $8k. It’s basically a beefed up Chevy LS but I’ve never done any LS swaps or coyote swaps so I honestly have no clue about the ac lines.

So you kept ac wiring from your original harness? If you have the Holley terminator X harness you don’t need anything from the old harness besides the connectors. The AC add on is universal so the connectors might not work. You can slice on your original or buy new ones.

@@DarkFoxx88 Well, here’s the problem. I am replacing the engine with one that I pulled out of a Explorer. So I’m planning on using the accessories and drive from the explorer. The ac compressor is completely different from my stock 85 compressor. So I was thinking about replacing the ac wiring if this kit would allow me to do that.

@@d.collier_8280 it should still work even if the compressor is completely different as long as your using the Holley Terminator X engine harness and the ac add on harness it should work but like I said buy new or reuse your factory connectors since the ac add on harness is universal.

Yes this will not affect your heat

That’s awesome. Please let me know how it works out for you. I’ve seen a few videos about it and seems to work better then stock.