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You didn't use adhesive? is that what is recommended? Thank you, Benny

when you gravity bleed do you jack up one wheel at a time or do you jack all with the front higher up? i find it hard jacking up all as I can’t put my jack stands at the same spot i’m jacking it up, if that makes sense.

Camera might as well been a mile away. Vacuum in the first few secs… wouldn’t the reservoir lid need to be cracked? No mention of that. Honestly, I watched the first minute and realized there was not much here for the layman.

My 77 C3 has 3 bleeders on back calipers

1:37, excellent I was wondering how to pop those out! Didn't want to force it, because as you say, everything is old and brittle! Unfortunately it looks like Paragon is no more. Websites doesn't work. Anybody looking to get new weatherstripping, do NOT BUY EPDM type weatherstripping. It is TOO HARD and STIFF (that's not what she said). You will have difficulty in closing the hatch! It MUST BE LATEX.

Man i miss Paragon.

To bad Paragon is gone, i need this service done. Sad

Did it by myself pressure is high.

Where is the seal that Paragon sells made? In USA or overseas?

Their website is dead.

Do you know what size the plastic screw caps are that you used to plug the master cylinder? Thanks

excellent video. need more videos like this

I hate youtube to diagnose car problems. These guys go against everything it states in the chassis service manuals. It's frustrating.

Word to the wise - use high quality line wrenches. The cheap ones are worse than no line wrench at all - they flex and open up, virtually guaranteeing that you round off the nuts - especially bleeder screws. I've had good luck with Gear Wrench. The Quinn brand at Harbor Freight look pretty good, but the Pittsburgh brand in this application is horrible. Ask me how I know...

No mention of the Brake Proportion Valve. To properly Bleed C3 Brakes you need to install a "Brake Proportion Valve tool" if you don't you're just wasting your time.

This looks like the kind that shrinks causing the corners to split open. I've got through 4 of them. They seem to only last 6 months to a year before they start splitting apart in the corners.

I would have installed a drain kit if the tube didn't pass "inside" the car. Because if the top of the tube isn't sealed well, or the adhesive or whatever starts to fail, then you'll get water into the car.

Why is the Paragon Corvette website down?

How u adjust the brake handle

In the video you torque the caliper mounting bolts to 50 ftlb. My shop manual says 70 ftlb. 78' Corvette. Is 50 the spec for the year car you are working on or is there another reason to do 50 and not 70?

You should start with the outside nipple first. If you do the inside first, then when you go to the outside nipple, any air bubbles entering the caliper may find their way into the inside puck cavity. Then you'll have to revisit the inside again.

Excellent video, thanks for all the information including the torque specs

I am super upset that your shop is gone up in Swartz Creek😢 what the hell man! Will it ever be a Corvette shop again in the future???

Did the C3 '73 have an ABS braking system or even a portioning valve system because of all wheel disk brakes? A lurker novice what's to know. Were the calipers and rotors a shared component with other vehicles at the time?

A drop of oil on the caliper bolts? I understand the reason for doing so , but wouldnt you want to loctite those bolts? Any new OEM vehicle ive worked on has some serious loctite on those bolts. Any reasoning for using oil over loctite? thanks!

It's a good presentation video but it would have been more helpful you could have shown more close-ups on what you were doing

Very good video. My question is if your run-out is out of spec. what do you do to correct to bring back into spec? Also, what run-out gauge are you using. Again excellent video!! Thank you Mike

What happens if the bleed just doesn't work on the back? I changed all calipers and started in the rear but was unable to get any fluid out when I bled. I moved over to the front and they bled just fine. I checked the lines by removing them and they were clear. The master cylinder was at the same level after the rear attempts, and the brake lines are new. Could the vacuum be of any consequence?

How do I know if my rotors need to be replaced? they"look" ok, don't seem to be warped. But they do look like yours around the outer edges. I do not know if they were previously cut. I replaced the calipers and some of the brake lines except for the one from the front to the rear. I also didn't replace the rear crossover one but I did replace the front crossover one, all around 1999. I did not replace the rear connecting blocks or the proportioning valve. I intend to replace all of the lines soon, including the front-to-rear and both crossover lines. I'd like to replace both rear connecting blocks, are they welded in place or held in by clips? And will I be able all I want to do without lifting the body off? Because I am unable to do that. I'm 72 yo and still enjoy working on my gray lady. Thanking you in advance, Nicky .. ps, I will be replacing the proportioning valve.

My front caliper seems to be sucking in air after a rebuild. I keep getting air and it's spongy. But it isn't leaking fluid!! Is this possible?

Does the front of the vehicle have to be higher than the rear when you start out on the passenger rear and then move to the driver rear? Thank you

Who makes this tool and where can I purchase one?

It is obvious to me that this job was pre-done, and reassembled for the video. That is fine but you should tell use. There are so many pit falls and difficulties that should be warned about. If your really trying to help a novice owner he should know all the dangers of rounded off bleeders, broken hard lines, seized bolt, etc, etc. Good info, just the same.

My project C3 came in parts and I’m putting it together. Are there any crush washers on the rear brake lines?

Good video, thanks. Instead of removing the struts and using a pole to hold up the window, I removed the strut and defroster wire at the window, slipped the seal over the strut, and reinstalled the strut. I did the same on the other side and the seal was installed with the hatch up.

Weren't you concerned about tripping the proportioning valve shuttle?

Hey what weatherstrips you have used? I bought new one and they dont seal very good :(

This tutorial was so helpful!! Thank you for taking the time to make it. Doing a brake job on my C2 and it seems to apply the exact same!

when the tube end is swaged over, should the flare be below the washer so the shims sit against the larges washer area and not on the flared edge or doesn't it matter?

we will be looking forward to more videos.

Thanks for a nice video. I hope there are more to come.

I see what he's doing but not totally understanding why he's doing it. I just bought a 59 and I'm going to have to install a dash. Some closed captioning or something would have been nice, or how about a little dialogue?

Should the foam in the new dash pad, be this thick? th-cam.com/video/5Z6kJySYYP8/w-d-xo.html

No audio

I need to know how to install a windshield 1959 vette do you have this on you tube?

its a lot easier with a solder gun

Do you sell these arm suspensions?

THIS WOULD BE GREAT IF WE HAD SOME SOUND. WOULD LIKE TO HEAR A LITTLE ABOUT WHATS GOING ON IN SOME APPLICATIONS. THANK YOU

What kind of paint do you use?

I can view the dash pad installation on the 1958 corvette but there is sound. Can anyone help me with the sound