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Still have this set up, It's good for my work. You can get a replacement switch for about $17.00. Grease is great! I believe less tension on spring to be better, but stretching could make you press harder, making it a smooth transition. Alternatives out there could be a sewing machine pedal, probably not. A dimmer switch, but it would have to be the right one and would be adgustable by hand, not foot. Could be a good addition. Lastly, I have seen a professional version for around $130.00, but that's the price for the machine! I purchased.

The power surge happens because of the design. At the higher speed. The dimming portion will top out and get superseded by a secondary switch, which is just on/off. So you lose fine control at higher speed. There is no way around this. But as mentioned, it really has not been a problem when it comes to that. I'm using this setup for fixing small stuff and jewelry work. I also get to play with a small $900.00 dental hand tool at work. It's not as aggressive by far. But the control without a hard cable is a real plus. Really it all depends on what you need it for.

@@moonolyth I just received the flexshaft its from a brand called Vevor and its 380W. The footpedal seems to be of the same quality as yours yet the switch has a different design. Similar to yours on the low RPM band it has some issues. So i took it apart and looked at the switch. It is comprised of a double spring design and double switch opposit from each other, the switch seems to be "stuck" in place so i opted to go for some grease and see the result. After added some motorcycle chain grease, teflon based. Onto the metal connectors where it rubs the switch and the plastic housing and then " rubbing" it in it seemed to go much smoother. For the main spring i'm not gonna bother stretching it as it needs some force already to move. Tested it and im a quite happy with the amount of control so im gonna leave it like this for now :) I will be using it for Porting engine components so mostly will be working on aluminium and plastic. Sadly they forgot to include the accessoire box so no real testing today :( Want to get started on cutting my air intakebox. Anyways did not axpect a response so thats very cool, wish you a great day and happy carving

Why thank you, Sir.

It's just an air moving fan for getting rid of dust, such as when sanding plaster, soldering, welding, and woodwork. The beauty of it is how it mounts to a window. It is very strong for its size. Thanks for watching!❤

You are right. Never really dropped over, but some time later, it started leaking. I should have used better glue on the gas connector. I'll probably make another one day. The tourch lasts some time without refills, though.

Yeah, not a problem, but it would be better. Agreed.

@@moonolyth You have space in the base to fill it with cement and solder a circle (with hole for the valve) so that it stays fixed. I love it. I want them both the buyed and the customized.

USA... Amazon.com $90.00-$130.00

No need, it just sets adjustment at zero with a quick set screw. So you don't need to re-adjust to origional setting. It allows you to fiddle and adjust stuff without the foot scratching the base plate for whatever reason. The screw is adjusted just enough that the foot dose not touch. Otherwise, you don't notice it's there.

Thanks❤ I have an extra smaller table with parts, so I replaced that and it works well too. The rest, It came together without rework, just much time thinking and looking at others working models. Of all my tools it's now my go to. I would recommend a simpler designe with the small platform and stand to anyone!!! Especially if you are limited in tools and room. Game changer! 😊

I commented about this on Malacki's radial arm saw video. I sold one for $50, but I thought it better to save the tool vs make few more dollars. For transparency sake, I told the guy who bought it. I've been enjoying your videos, thanks for taking the time to share!

I looked when I got them.. No markings. The bearings are nice but I'm thinking so long as you oil real we'll shouldn't be a problem. One without the bearings actually works a little better, truth be told. Timing them is all you need. The rest is all just finish.

👍Yup! Sometimes, safety gadgets become a safety issue. Just cut some thick aluminum yesterday, and it boged down big time. Gojo hand cleaner is the go-to for bigger jobs as a lubricant vs. that wast of time crayon. Really works well. Also, I added a little lock mechanism that holds the shield back when needed so it won't get in the way. Good luck!

Yes, why not? The cloth would lift some on that side. And you'd need to make sure the foot was not so thin to bend... per the pressure and material used. You could bosibly make thinner and add a dimple or groove with a file for the needle but perhaps not needed...all you can do is give it a shot.

Thank you so much!

A clamp helps much! I used two flat plates..knifes. and slipped one on eather side back and forth untill the tabs released. It has 2 each side. Be patient and they will pop out. Knifes are sharp!

I have replaced some..probably SAE... What I had in house.

@@moonolyth I noticed on some other videos that the screws were loosened and tightened with an Allen wrench. It looked a lot easier switching the sewing needle with that! I had a heck of a time with a slotted screwdriver.

@randolphchappel6098 .. Easier on the eys, too!

@@moonolyth ; I’ll have to go to a shop that has different styles of bolts. Hexagonal bolt heads, even a flat spade type that some sewing machines have to hold the needle in place. Thanks!

I suppose they use a different needle veriety size also, good to know.

Most parts are pretty easy to see, although the mechanism for walking movement is inside the cylinder. You can open it up. Perhaps you have a brocken spring??

that's great! This machine is one of the best purchases I've made for the price, Good luck!!

Time given, I don't think they'd be feasible to make and sell.😕

I sure hope not.. It feels cheap to me. A decent one should have a full smooth swing on it. The actual switch is about $15 on line. And good replacements look to be around $100 or so.

Just looked at a switch replacement vid. And that also looked cheep so who knowes without using one.

Thank you, sir!

Wow 11 months ago... My bad. Always used silicon. Often I pump it into a bagy and use it like for pastrey. Especially for smaller projects.

Have not. All still in a box. Someone used a rear bick gear for theirs. So it drives forward hand cranks back. I extended the main crank shaft on machine..silver solder. So I can have a slipping link between shaft and the a drive I will build....push in to connect pull out to disconnect. I think these little motors are the answer. Very tough, and you can dial in a speed that you like. They can lift much more force than you will need.

Yup! No answer in the video. Doing lots of adjusting such as the needle, shaft etc. I didn't want the foot up but didn't want it scraping the bottom plate. It's unobstructive and easy to do.

Hah! Would be cool given time. Thanks!

@@moonolyth I would buy some

I narrowed thr foot by removing some metal from the bridge at front of foot. Then drilled out the needle space to fit. Didn't know how hard the metal was so l heated it cherry red then quenched it hard after the work.

Hah! You know that is a really good question. I don't answer that in the video. The origional intention was to not scratch-up the plate under foot while turning the machine, I was constantly running the machine without cloth while working on it, but did not want the pressure foot up. Also, needle height and other parts adjustments where easier with foot activated. And Refilling the yarn spool too. Otherwise not nessisary. I now only use it while it's put away, parked.

Don't know how to answer that, I got mine of the cheapest seller on ebay at the time. Also got a second one from Bangood, both a little more pricy than what you can get on amazon now. They all look to use the same casting molds. Some have extra bearings wich is nice but keeping oiled will run them fine. So generaly if there are issue's you will probably be able to tune them out/fix. I have done some excessive work on both they feel smooth and run well, most the time was not spent on fixing but refining. Hope that helps.

Thank you, sir. I have an old Pfaff machine also, but this one gets used all the time. I've made my money back twice over patching my own jeans.

Placed them there for reinforcements but I don't think they're necessary. Tile won't crack on edges like glass but it is brittle if you drop something on it. Also, good idea to plays thin foam between heavy board and the tile so it doesn't have to flex..crack. I think it's great you can choose the back ground pattern. Thanks for liking

@@moonolyth Awesome, thank you. I thought they were either gussets for strength or shelves to hold a lid up. My tank will be all glass, but I'm doing a tile mosaic on the back wall. Yours caught my eye while I was researching.

Sounds like yours runs very smooth. They are worth the effort. Great Idea with the foam-catch! I eventually pulled mine apart to make improvements. It came with ball bering on all the arms. Some don't have all bearings that I know of.

SORRY FOR LAITE RESPONCE.. They work, be sure to use fine threads and it does take a little turning to get them seated + a dab of vaseline won't hurt after placing in eather.

Sorry for late response.. I think a little. Especially when I'm sewing 4 layers at a narrowed seam. I don't change it out for the most part. Thanks

@@moonolyth I rarely change the foot out on mine unless I have to. My Chinese patcher is pretty tired to say the least I don't think the one I have was built for longevity or lots of use. I hope to find a newer long arm patcher similar to the long arm Singer 29K or an Adler. A cylinder bed machine like a chandler would be great too. If you find any parts sources for the patcher I would like to know I have a hard time finding certain parts for mine.

@@sswcustomsewing4276 The 29 would be great. Noticed a seller on face book at 40+ Shipping... for the Chinese one I have. facebook.com/marketplace/item/1419764305132240/ I don't us mine on a daily basis. So time will tell.

Sweet machines for the Cash!

Two of my other modifications bit.ly/3rCet84 bit.ly/33xoLhK, 29K singer would be the bomb. I have a Pfaff 31 also, not the strongest but good enough to sew sails with. I am mostly using these machines light-duty, hopefully, leather soon. To motorize these, often you need a very large pully to slow them down for practical use. Or a $tep motor large and more pricy. Seen a singer treadle used with these, looked good. I was thinking wiper motor because they run two speeds, slow and slower, small and have much torque. You'd just run them with a power brick such as a laptop supply. To do more investigation on them Id look up something like TH-cam... .. . (Demo of 12v Power Supply Powering a Wiper Motor with a Motor Controller) (Haunt Wiring 101- Part 1- Wiper Motors) It's a big thing with Halloween and you can find plenty of how to wire and run them.... Thanks,