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OutboardDad
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2024
Outboarddad
@outboarddad
This channel was created to help you have a better boating experience. As the owner of McGowan's Marine, with 30+ years of boating experience, I want to help you understand how to save money and take care of your outboard to have the best boating experience with your family and friends.
@outboarddad
This channel was created to help you have a better boating experience. As the owner of McGowan's Marine, with 30+ years of boating experience, I want to help you understand how to save money and take care of your outboard to have the best boating experience with your family and friends.
Yamaha 250 Outboard OX66 Purchase for Grady White project!
Rebuilding a Grady overnighter and Outboard bracket 2 stroke
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วีดีโอ
Outboard Mid Section disassemble and repair DYI (Part 31)
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Rebuilding Mercury Outboard mid section fix
Mercury Outboard Mid Section repair rebuild (Part 30)
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Disassembling and outboard mid section exhaust housing
Mercury Outboard Poppet Valve primer Rebuild (Part 29)
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Assembly of outboard after rebuilding power head
Mercury 2.5 Carburetor Power Head rebuild (Part 28)
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Rebuilding Outboard motors
Mercury Outboard short block power head rebuild (Part 27)
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Assembly of Outboard 2.5 Mercury 150
Mercury 2.5 Rebuild assembly and Torque specs ( Part 26)
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Assembly of an engine block power head
Mercury 150 Rebuild power head Intake reeds (Part 25)
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Cleaning and installing manifold
Yamaha 250 Outboard test run set idle speed
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Fire up and run fuel injected 250
How to install Mercury Outboard crankcase cover (Part 24)
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Rebuild an outboard at home
Can we get this old boat running again Tohatsu
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Bringing a old motor to life project
Outboard Motor Upper and Lower Seal Replacement: Easy DIY Guide
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How to replace upper and lower engine block seals on a 2 stroke Mercury
“Connecting Rod Wrist Pin Guide: Installation Tips For Outboard Motors
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Inspecting rebuilding and diagnosing Mercury Yamaha Suzuki rods and pistons
How to Install New Pistons in your Outboard
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How to install new pistons in your outboard
"Outboard Tilt & Trim Issues? Here’s How to Fix Common Problems"
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Replacing parts to get back on the water
Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard and parts NJ
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Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard and parts NJ
DIY Lower Unit Repair: Save Thousands with These Step-by-Step Tips!"
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DIY Lower Unit Repair: Save Thousands with These Step-by-Step Tips!"
Outboard Lower Unit Bearing Carrier Removal (Part 3)
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Outboard Lower Unit Bearing Carrier Removal (Part 3)
Yamaha Outboard Lower Shift Shaft Seal replace (Part 2)
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Yamaha Outboard Lower Shift Shaft Seal replace (Part 2)
Yamaha Outboard lower unit seals pressure test (Part 1)
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Yamaha Outboard lower unit seals pressure test (Part 1)
Is It Worth Buying used Outboard Trim? Comparison
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Is It Worth Buying used Outboard Trim? Comparison
Yamaha OX66 tilt trim inspection seals (Part 2)
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Yamaha OX66 tilt trim inspection seals (Part 2)
Yamaha Outboard Tilt Trim problem fix leaks (Part 1)
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Yamaha Outboard Tilt Trim problem fix leaks (Part 1)
Yamaha 250 OX66 Outboard grease fitting repair
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Yamaha 250 OX66 Outboard grease fitting repair
Kris Why to Avoid Evinrude Ficht Ram Outboard
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Kris Why to Avoid Evinrude Ficht Ram Outboard
Outboard Dad with Kris Fish Charters for Stripers
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Outboard Dad with Kris Fish Charters for Stripers
Used Outboard motors for under $150 Johnson 130 and 90
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Used Outboard motors for under $150 Johnson 130 and 90
Should You Rebuild Your Mercury 2.5 Outboard (Part 22)
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Should You Rebuild Your Mercury 2.5 Outboard (Part 22)
I wish I Knew This Before Buying an Outboard Motor Avoid these
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I wish I Knew This Before Buying an Outboard Motor Avoid these
Outboard Motor Rebuild for Beginners Step by (part 21)
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Outboard Motor Rebuild for Beginners Step by (part 21)
Once you have checked everything, every single part of this motor, I wonder if you have seen one or three reasons why it got overheated as much as one piston going very bad and another four pistons quite bad also. It would be interesting to find out if the previous owner or owners would confess to having run with a continuos beep from the overheating alarm and or the temperature gauge showing more than 3/4. I have seen that in these v6 engines one head holds the alarm sensor and the other head holds the temperature sensor. It would be wise the place a second alarm sensor in parallel so alarm will kick as soon as one of the sensors closes the alarm contact. Similarly a second temperature sensor and a swith at the gauge (or a second temperature gauge better yet) will be welcome, so we could monitor alternatively (or simultaneously) the temperature of both cylinder heads. Anyhow my main question is if you found a strong reason or reasons for this motor having been overheated. It would be a pity if the overheating problem will show up after all your great job because the overheating reason hadn't be found and solved. One of the two thermostats might had gone bad, both thermostats bad would close the path towards the telltale and is very unlikely, but it wouldn't be difficult to check them simply by putting them in hot water. It seems like water pump was alright, poppet valve was good too, water passages were clean or at least not clearly blocked (which is rare in a twenty year old motor), and carburators were quite clean, as far as I have seen in your videos. I have seen that these carburated engines may use small or big jets depending on where they are used. I wonder if all carburators had small jets to run in lakes during the summer at high altitud, low air pressure and high air temperatures which makes air density very low, but the engine was taken to the sea and run at high atmospheric pressure in a sunny and cold day during the winter at high air density but with small jets, where really big jets are needed in order to avoid a poor gas to air ratio. Which reminds me that bad seals at the crankshaft or a bad carburator gasket will cause poor gas to air ratio in one or more cylinders. All those carbon deposits found today at the exhaust pipe mean that the engine has been working in a rich fuel to air ratio or at least not in too poor ratio.
@@josemariatrueba4568 All of your points here are valid for sure. This is why we do all of these steps to have the best possible outcome. My experience is that 90% of the motors I have worked on are over propped . People are sold on the stainless prop to squeeze out another 5 mph. Even all the motors my customers have that are running well 90% are over propped and or have a dole fin to help get up on plane. Most will have issues at some point but so many people here run their boats 10-20 hrs a year. That’s why you see so many boats for sale that are 15-20 yrs old and have only 500 hrs on the motors.
@OutboardDad I hadn't thought about the damage of over sized propellers and dole fins. Thanks for pointing! My boat used to have 19 inch pitch propellers because the previous owner was looking for 40 knots with twin 135hp engines. He got 39 knots with the boat clean and empty. He had 17 and 15 inch propellers also. Probably the right pitch with two engines was 17 to get more than 30 knots top speed easily without over loading the poor engines assuming that full power at more than 5500 rpm is limited for a very short time. I have no idea what's the maximum rpm sustainable for an hour or three but I wouldn't go over 4000 or so. What's the cruise maximum rpm that you would recommend? Now we have a single engine with 15 pitch propeller and the boat runs powerful and smooth even at full load with all our gears, 6 persons and half a tank (full tank is 200 gallons that we have never tried). The new maximum speed of the lightweight Pursuit model 2550 with clean hull and two people is a bit over 27 knots in flat water abd no wind (around 4000 pounds or 1800 Kg, because empty boat without engine weight, specified by the manufacturer, is only 3000 pounds equal to 1362 kilograms). Top speed is more than enough speed for a short time in the seas we have here at the Bay of Biscay, northern coast of Spain, because anything over 18 knots is normally too much speed for rough seas. Water skiing nicely at 17 knots is possible those days that waves are up to 1 meter or 3 feet after noon. Water is flat only first time in the morning, after all night of a gentle coastal breeze some very good weather days that we often get only during the summer.
@ Each motor has an rpm range to operate in. Usually 4500-5000 max but optimal most are WOT 4800
@@OutboardDad@OutboardDad I guess that we need more than one propeller for the 4500 to 5500 rpm range, or your 4800 rpm number at WOT target. I always thought that propellers should be small enough that maximus allowable rpm will be reached at Wide Opened Throttle. If max rpm cannot be reached it's a sign that the propeller is too big for the conditions. In fact Mercury manuals say that a smaller propeller should be used when the boat is full loaded or when the engine cannot reach full rated power in a hot, humid and cloudy day in summer because air density is too low and the mass of oxygen is lower than expected. Available power is less in summer than in a clear sky cold and dry day in winter when air density is very high. Mercury manuals mention that there is a secondary loss of power because lack of high enough rpm at WOT and for this reason smaller propellers should be used in summer than in winter. My 135hp Mercury 2.0 has a factory sign that says max rpm is 5700 rpm. I have read somewhere that the engine will not allow more than 6000 rpm because there is a module that controls ignition to avoid over revs. But I see that there is no control of possible overloads that may cause damage from over sized propellers for the running conditions. Could we stand that an excess of rpm from too small propellers, like if the boat is clean and empty in winter, is not as bad as lack of rpm from a too big propellers for conditions like a full loaded boat in summer?
Perfect as always! Thanks again 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@dimitardzhukanov6818 Glad you are enjoying the process!
I’m a really new in this hobby, but I always keep attention to your fantastic videos. Thanks again, I’ll definitely text you if I need help. I’m located in UK- London. Have nice day 🙏🙏🙏
@@dimitardzhukanov6818 Great! I am working on a used outboard buying guide for mechanical people interested in building a business doing this work. Appreciate your kind words and feel free to let me know anything you think I can do better
@ That is really kind of you. Thank you very much!🙏🙏🙏
@ Anytime
Thank you 🙏
@@dimitardzhukanov6818 You’re welcome! Anything I can help you with?
This engine is going to be as good as brand new!
@@josemariatrueba4568 That’s the goal!
1952 Evinrude lightwin all the way. No one builds a small motor that compare. 2 cyl 3hp that has the lowest trolling rpm hands down. Like you said Bad owners! I have had newer 4 strokes that have failed but this little engine has been cared for all of its life and has never left me stranded. Simple carb rebuild and new ignition and away it goes. I could not care if it smokes, because I don't need a computer to find the problem . That being said I have a few newer E Tec engines but this little motor is my kicker and always starts to get me back home when all else fails. The EPA really screwed the pooch pushing 4 stroke engines. If anyone can understand, if it burns fuel it will pollute 2 or 4 stroke The old KISS theory
@@ADKjunkie541 Wise words my friend! Love the truth of your experience, thanks for sharing
Nicely done!!
@@bradleyferdinand9192 Thank you!
Very well explained and very good job, indeed. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!
@@josemariatrueba4568 Thanks buddy!
250 mercury outboard here. 201 hours on it 2021. I don’t know anyone that complains really or has problems with outboard motors where I live on the water.. I know many people with 1000 hours, 1500 hrs, Suzuki, mercury, Yamaha, follow the Maintenance in the manual and it’s easy. It doesn’t even require much. Oil change, gear lube, filters, spark plugs, at a certain point, belt, I just took my boat out for the winter and this year. I just had to do oil, plugs, fog the motor and gear lube. Took about an hour and a half. Pretty much do this once a year and you should have minimum issues if any…
@@Maynardd Not rocket science, the commercial guys put 5000 on these motors
Exhaust is the hottest part of any engine. It's the first place where waterflow goes, then it goes to heads and jackets is the last place once poppet valve star5s opening, according to Mercury diagrams. Looks like gas is actually burnt there at exhaust manifolds, not inside the combustion chamber as we are told.
@@josemariatrueba4568 Thanks buddy!
Are you in South west Florida by any chance ?
@@bradhollinger2532 New Jersey, but we can face time if needed
@@OutboardDad Your too kind .....am looking at a bay boat with a optimax 200 , if I get it I may take you up on that !!
@ I would suggest my used buying guide. If you email me I can offer you a copy. Keith@outboarddad.com
I thought that the heads, or cylinder covers as they were named in your book, had a single gasket instead of your O-rings. Some of the rests of our old engines here are two units of 1997 Mercury v6 two stroke, model 135hp 2.0, and the one that is installed (and overheating) is a single unit of the same model but year 1998. I feel like cleaning carefully two of our four old heads, and replacing the heads quickly onboard one of these days. The boat is floating all year long, and we like to give it a ride even during the wintertime. What model and year is this Mercury 2.5 engine of yours?
@@josemariatrueba4568 I think it’s 2001 and yes no head gasket on these.
@OutboardDad Understood. Many thanks for your quick response. I wonder why they decided to replace the traditional gasket with those great O-rings and complex rubber gasket.
@ Mercury was always trying new things
@@OutboardDad @OutboardDad maybe too many things while using poor customers as a huge test team? Anyhow they must have had good reasons, or just a single reason, to replace the traditional head gasket. I wonder what was the main reason. Heat transfer from metal to metal, and/or maybe a better flow of water towards passages without an intermediate obstruction?
I once had the most unreliable POS outboard, it made the most reliable letterbox.
@@JoeC88 Lol! What make and model?
@@OutboardDad Sorry Mate I was just joking. However it was a joke me and my old fishing buddy used to make about his Chrysler. "it's that shit box dodge again" was another joke. Dads friend became so angry that he ditched his troublesome chrysler at sea & slowly motored back on his small spare outboard.
@ LOL! I love it!
Man I gotta tell ya I'm really enjoying the channel.im down on the coast in Alabama. Seems like something new to watch like every 15 minute,s or so 😂 no seriously keep up the great work.
@@kingfish3066 Thanks buddy, just doing my thing! Anything I can help you with just let me know
@OutboardDad think you sir .
This is the best part, putting everything together until all pieces look like a complete motor again.
You used the old reeds?
@@johnropeleski6006 Yes, what are your thoughts, experience?
@@OutboardDad Maybe he was thinking about replacing them with some modern carbon fiber ones like those used in dirt bikes, but... Your old reeds do look like new. All of them were alright as you told us the other day. It seems like they are made to last.
@@josemariatrueba4568 I am always curious as to WHY someone has the opinion they do so I can learn something I may have never thought of. Not everybody shares. I have only replaced reeds when the are damaged but I also rebuild for longevity and cost not racing performance.
When we do a complete rebuild we always replace the reeds, shop policy.carbs also are cleaned new kits installed and new water pump.
@@johnropeleski6006 shop policy for a known reason?
Nicely done! Beautiful motor!
@@bradleyferdinand9192 Thanks
I’m subscribed. How do I get the book?
@@jturner8922 Thank you! It will be available on Amazon soon!
I had a compressor fail on a 2004 225 Opti. Got the replacement compressor and luckily checked the oil flow and it appears I am not getting oil to the compressor so I am in the process of replacing the oil pump. I had one that I had to take off a donor engine. Any other suggestions I can try to check before I start the engine? Thanks- I also like the truck in the driveway. What year?
@@vancegordon9140 Truck is a 75 supercab. Be sure you bleed the oil lines and make sure oil is makiyit to the pump. Also be sure you use Optimax oil
I have a 1999 Evinrude 115hp FICHT. 25 year old motor and "it runs like a raped ape" as a friend of mine said. NEVER had a lick of problems with it. Not ONE. My 115hp is a 4 cylinder, sips fuel, and is light and powerful as hell. The FICHT motors that had problems were almost EXCLUSIVELY 6 cylinder!!! Very BAD info to throw them all into one basket and condemn!!!
@@frankschannel2642 Agreed! Thanks for the feedback!
Yesterday we went to the sea and found out that the overheating engine is getting worse. This time alarm kicked out when temperature needle was showing about a quarter of full scale deflection. The first time the overheating problem showed up alarm came on when temperature needle was showing 3/4, later it happened at 1/2 and yesterday at only 1/4. I stopped the engine as soon as I heard he first beep and continued with the 9.9hp auxiliary engine. I started again when there was no beeping when turning key switch to the on position. We went back to the port running the engine at 1500rpm and temperature gauge was showing a bit less than 1/4. What's your hint for us to work on during the incoming winter? This time it happened after only ten minutes or less running at close to 2000 rpm only. Waterpump seems alright because there was a strong peeing at the telltale. Lasr summer we replaced the broken membrane of the poppet valve, which is just a pressure switch that should start opening above 1500rpm as it's explain in the service manual. Thermostats seems to open at the right temperature which is 55°C only but I'm thinking about removing thermostats and see what happens. I feel like removing the groomer at the poppet valve and watch the consequences.
Hey buddy, can you get a hold of the crayons they make that melt on the block at different temps? If not I would paint the block white and run it again to see where it is getting hot. My guess is on the head as that is usually where the sensors are for the alarm. Unless the alarm is from another source like oil flow. Remind me the year make and model
@@OutboardDad The engine is a 1998 mercury 135hp two stroke v6 2.0 liter. The intermitent alarm stands for low oil. The continuos beep alarm that was sounding yesterday is overheating and the sensor is located on one of the two cylinders heads. The temperature sensor is located over the other head. Maybe one head is getting hot kicking the alarm while the other is not hot enough and temperature meter is showing only 1/4? Since the whole engine is painted in black it should be easy to point a laser pointer with infrared temperature meter towards any blak part of the engine since the black color is the color that radiates better in the infrared spectrum, or better yet is to get a thermal imager for my cellphone?
@ not a fan of infrared temp tools for this application. Radiant heat can throw it off. I would pull the heads and check the water passages
@OutboardDad Many thanks for your recommendation of not using a thermal camera. I have two old heads in pretty nasty condition that I should clean first of all. Then I guess that I should get new gaskets before removing the working heads and start cleaning the passages in the jackets.
Very interesting and helpful as always!
@@josemariatrueba4568 thanks buddy!
Ran a 83 Evinrude 175 cross flow for 39 years. Very reliable. Was still running great when I sold it. Always did maintenance on it every spring
@@danramzinski2957 Awesome! Thanks for the input!
TOWER OF POWER 😊
@@brianarthur6945 Amazed at how many are still out there!
Do you happen to know anything about a Volvo Penta 140? It’s a 14hp outboard that my brother is giving to me. He says it runs fine, but reverse isn’t the greatest. Whatever that means!
Hey man, just go through the basics thoroughly, compression, lower unit, clean fuel system and run it. Let me know what you find when going through it if I can help
@ Roger that. Thank you sir.
Your new discovery does explain why one piston and corresponding cylinder had gone bad. But doesn't explain why the rest of the cylinders had some scratches. Maybe overheating from different causes including poor gas to air ratio air leaks or just too many hours without replacing pistons, gaskets and bearings?
hi, was the airpump dead?
@@imtheasco No but the o rings need to be replaced and valve body checked or it could leak water into the motor and cause failure
I posted a comment but it disappeared after a short while
@@josemariatrueba4568 Not sure what happened
I was saying that I liked your explanations very much.
I also said that it was funny when you found out that the piston was upside-down. These kind of things happen even to the best technicians but they usually hide them, while you had no problem showing it for everybody to watch.
What was the proportion of Diesel engine oil and white lithium grease?
About 50/50
This is a great video and advice. Thanks for sharing. 🚤🎣😊
@@mattwaters6987 Galas to help!
Looking forward to seeing it fire up!! Very exciting!
@@bradleyferdinand9192 thank you
Solid, Keith! Great videos, as always.
Good afternoon sir. Cameron out here on the west coast w the ox66. My apologies for asking a question that isn't related to the video. Or I believe I left you my # if a call might be easier for you? * Have you done a video or any knowledge of how to test a pulser coil? Think this may be our culprit. As always thanks for your time 🙏
@@cameroncardoza5626 I have not, what motor year and model? You can email keith@outboarddad.com . I will be traveling for business this week so may not get back to you until next weekend
80s 90s small hp Evinrude Johnson’s are great. I also have a few old mercs 51 KG7 I run. Mercs from the late 60s 70s wires always break down 😂. Chrysler are junk few force are ok but Chrysler is just junk
@@Rlip Thanks for the comments!
Hi Keith. How do you determine which prop shafts come out with the carrier and which don't on various outboards? I am trying to figure out the process on my 1996 40hp Mariner, whether to do the method in this video or to use a puller that pushes against the end of the prop shaft and pull the carrier off of the prop shaft. Thank you for your help.
@@timenfinger41 Check TH-cam! LOL what I usually do is look in the manual and read how it’s done or you can look it up on boats.net the parts breakdown. If you need more help email me OutboardDad.com
Awesome... you relpied to my question and issue on facebook. Thank you for directing me to your channel. Watched all three of your videos on the 9.9 carburetor and learned some stuff. Looked over some others and youve got good stuff with clear explanations that i will be able to use in the future. Mine is a 90 hp with 3 carbs but videos are still useful. Do you have any videos on the two stroke Mercury with the bigger block?? Good job, good videos... thank you.
@@garyschwalm4842 Thanks buddy! I do have a Mercury 150 2.5 that I am doing total teardown and rebuild if that helps
Do you know where the poppet valve is on a v6 2stroke 1993 175hp black max?
@@SolarBurrito should be similar to the 150 I have in videos that I am rebuilding. If not I can look in my book if you need send an email keith@outboarddad.com
And that's how it starts; I just need 1 extra motor for backup...😁
@@kq2799 Ha Ha
As an Certified Optimax Technician, the Optimax was the best engineered unit Mercury ever built. Problem, people who want a thoroughbred , but don't want to pay to maintain the unit. I have several motors well over 1000 hours and still working well. I find most of your information is directed to DYI, mechanics. Take them to your dealer for best service and longevity.
@@rceme74 Thanks for the input!
Its only worth it, if you know how to do it yourself and its a 2.5 V6 merc....
@@terrypikaart4394 Sometimes
What is the Yamaha mix section
@@jeffberner3102 Sorry if I confused you, did I mean mid section?
@ yes you were right I spelled wrong, 2008yamaha 90, free reving from 5000-6500 any thoughts, lower end sat in water 2 years, used 2 summers and now I have this? I did service the lower and rechecked and oil looks great, and a new prop , about to do water pump, is there anything I should look for? Thanks again
@ Best to talk, email me your number and a good time with your time zone keith@outboarddad.com
Could I get some information on a 2015 tohatsu bft250a 250 horse, four stroke corrosion problems in the block
@@johnlaird9157 sure send me an email keith@outboarddad.com
In the first place I thought that an old lower unit couldn't be fixed because it cannot be even opened. You certainly don't give up easily!
@@josemariatrueba4568 I may not be the smartest but I usually outwork most!
Great content!
@@bartdaw6681 Thank you!
Never ever buy a 4 stroke outboard of any size. Will not last even a decade. No oil injection 2 stroke motors. If you do find one, convert it to oil in gas before you ever run it. It is nice to get a reed valve 2 stroke but the older ones still run great.
@@geraldkoth654 Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for this list. I can picture all these motors over the years. I have an 04 90 Yamaha 4 stroke. It’s a freshwater motor but I’d love to know exactly where the corrosion occurs so I can check. It’s a fantastic running machine otherwise.
@@motorv8N So you can pull the lower unit and scope the mid section and see if it’s corroded. There are theories that the only time they failed was when they were over propped and had hotter exhaust that actually started melting the aluminum or bringing it too a high temp causing more corrosion.
Solid video!
@@bradleyferdinand9192 Thanks
Is Penzoil 2 stroke oil ok to use?
@@bartdaw6681 I would not, any of the manufacturers oils are better. Evinrude, Mercury, Yamalube, and if older motor non synthetic
@ good to know, I have a fresh water use 1989 merc 115 hp outboard and I started using penzoil so I will switch to the merc non synthetic 2 stroke oil.
@ Good idea, I’m to use penzoil in a pinch but not for long term
Been running penzoil in mercury 125s for years. Salt water kept, fishes once or twice a week for 6-10 hours each time every season. Troll a lot and run 20+ miles frequently...never had any issues related to oil quality
@ Glad to hear that! 99% of the motors I have rebuilt or took in trade blown were using aftermarket oil. I hear that penzoil and amsoil are better quality. Just cannot go wrong with manufacturers oil.
subbed and waiting for the Amazon book!
@@kq2799 Thank you!
Any recommendations on a cheap tester? I have a mighty vac, but I believe it only pulls a vacuum. I see some options on Amazon.
@@Mags120fish1 I got the squeeze ball on Amazon just a blood pressure ball. Comes with tubing and just had a gauge I put a tee on and connected to lower unit using the fitting from my lower unit oil pump. I have another video on pressure test lower unit that shows the testing
@ thanks!
Appreciate your videos.
@@Mags120fish1 thank you! Let me know if I can help you with anything