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You'd need to be tubeless to use these and currently tubeless seems to be of limited value at the higher pressures of BMX.

Black is Rimpact. Grey is Cushcore

@@gsportgeorge thanks. Has anyone really tested these for BMX? I’ve seen a lot of MTB riders use them

Yes, holes in the top. I used M8 studding in 1m lengths and just cut into thirds. Bent in a vice with hand pressure and a hammer.

Thank you, really good project.

The obvious answer is circle pliers, but I appreciate that lots of people don't have them. If you have some fine needle nose pliers then they might work.

I used Rollan 80 which I got from SDS London. I didn't know before I bought it what size thread it used but it turned out to be M8. Hope this helps

@@gsportgeorge thanks very much for the quick reply. I assume you could just fit a nut to secure the threaded bar into the resess on the top/centre of the trolley?

@@888rc2xva as long as there is clearance inside your rail I think that would be fine. But all the ones I looked at had a captive nut inside anyway

This sort of thing is usually better by email but let's have a go. I know you say you have tried multiple greases etc, but 9 times out of 10 any problem is down to a lack of grease. Really lard it on. If that really isn't the problem then the next logical step is to ask if anything has changed. Putting anything between the axle and the dropout is nearly always a disaster, so if you've recently added a dive side guard in there it then try taking it back out. Similarly if your dropouts are damaged or bent that can cause problems, ideally try the hub on another bike. Lastly, if none of this is the cause, then it rather stands to reason that something is damaged or broken. Examine everything carefully, maybe you managed to bend the axle (though this is incredibly unusual), maybe there is a crack in the drive side collar or the clutch itself. Is the drive side angular contact bearing OK (and is it in the right way round)? Hope something here helps and please feel free to email me directly with photos etc.

@@gsportgeorge Hi! thanks for the response! Can you leave me your email please? I will explain it better there, I really want to solve this problem, thanks for your help!

@@sergiuzsr g at gsport dot co dot uk

@@gsportgeorge Hi! Looks like the lack of grease was the problem as you said. I'm really surprised that it worked! Everything is fine now and the bike rides perfectly. Thanks a lot!

It's purpose is to fully retain the non drive side bearing. This is what ensures the axial location of the hub on the axle. Without it, it is possible that tricks like tailwhips would slowly drive the hub over towards the driver side. This is all part of letting the driver side bearings "float" axially which saves them from huge axial loads in use.

@@gsportgeorge sir actually i have wtp helix hub v3 i just bought it and the stord where it came from built it . I use once when i did 180 on a small drop something snaped on back wheel.. we troubleshoot it many times still whem we tight the driver also tightens. Whdn i went home i found in thd box the c clip still pack and i wonder where if came from only to find out my hub maybe wasnt properly installed. As i went here on your video i saw the driver is same with my with bearing bemeath it so maybe i am hopefull i can still save my freecoaster

@@ashleymateo3034 bit cumbersome talking through yt comments. Do you want to drop me an email to g at gsport .co.uk.

@@gsportgeorge sure sir ill send now

@@gsportgeorge the email is invalid sir

Sorry to hear it. Get on to warranty, they should be able to hook you up.

@@gsportgeorge is it bad that I didn't even think of that. 😂. Probs had it 6 month. Tbh I've been trying to dial down my tail whips and I've been crashing hard. It's a customer issue, not manefacturer lol

@@FAHRENHEIT451JL it's designed to be ridden hard, collar shouldn't break, I'm sure we can warranty it for you.

@@gsportgeorge ill put an email in. I've got some major drag on it. Spun my vandero once, spun the clutch 3 times and when the rear stopped the front was still going strong , so I need help either way. ( definitely down to the before mentioned.) I really appreciate your reply George. I've got so much love for odessey; you just took it to the moon. Enjoy your weekend fella!!! 💪

@@gsportgeorge sorry to ask fella. My drive side collar is stuck and will not come out. I've got the v2. Any advise

These are just prototype G-Sport Pleg2's

You should be able to press the driver out and then the bearing. You will need something like a large socket that can fit through the conical shell liner to push against the driver and then the bearing. I hope this helps.

Do you need to remove the bearing?

Yes! I need to replace mine. What’s the best method for removing the driver side bearing wants to driver is already out?

So…. what I did to remove the drive side, bearing once the driver was already removed was use my park tool RT - 1. It is a headset and bottom bracket cup removal tool. I inserted it into my hub upside down. I used the end that you would typically hit with a hammer to rest against the inner race of the bearing . It fit perfectly inside the inner bearing race and free a few taps on the opposite end, I was able to pop it right out.

Yes. Undo the lockout completely, then unscrew the cone completely and it will all come apart. Hope this helps.

@@gsportgeorge thanks will get back to you!

Just follow the rest of the instructions and the collar will be left behind in the driver as you drive the axle out the otherside. Hope this helps.

@@gsportgeorge it worked thank you 😊

Sorry, can't really follow your description of the problem. Might be easier if you email me, g at gsport dot co dot UK and explain what the problem is when the hub is assembled and maybe add photos or video explanation.

Be better not to. It really should come out the hole with a bit of shaking. You might need to stick a screwdriver through the hole to push the helical adjuster halves back together. Otherwise just follow the video to take it apart.

So what will have happened is that you've screwed the grub screw all the way through the helical adjuster. If you shake the hub about with the access hole as the lowest point you should be able to retrieve it. Then you just need to line the hole in the shell up with the correct thread hole in the helical adjuster half nearest the drive side and put it back in. Hope this helps.

@@gsportgeorge it's not coming out🥺

update: i started taking it apart and my driver started coming out easily by hand, but all of the needles of the driver were sitting loose in the hub, is that not something that is just set in or should it be able to come apart like that? (this hub was taken apart before at my local bmx shop to replace the axle, maybe that is why it is loose?)

Was going to suggest putting it back in your old frame to see if the frame is somehow responsible but sounds like you've moved on from there. The needles should be in a cage. If the cage has broken then it will obviously need a new cage assembly. Is there significant wear or corrosion visible? How long have you had the hub?

No. Sorry shells and drivers are side specific.

Hi Dude, Sorry not following your description very well. There are no cone nuts, just push fit collars. All you need to do is pull hard. If it is corroded on there then some penetrating spray is a good start. Bolting the other side of the hub to something to help you pull is one way to go but not really going to help enormously. If you can get the non-drive-side collar off, then you can remove the circlip on the non drive side and this will let you knock the axle out as shown in the video, which will release the drive side collar. Maybe watch the video again to get what I mean. Hope this helps.

George French appreciate it, I wasn’t sure if that piece you pulled off along with the bolt was a cone but or an axle so I just had to guess what to call it haha

George French I’ve got the driveside collar out now, but the driver came out when I pulled it out, and now it won’t go back in completely. I don’t believe there is any damage because it engages and disengages, but I can’t seem to drift the axle through the non-driveside and the non-driveside bearing seems to have drifted more towards the center of the hub somehow.

@@pejotaforpres have you taken the circlip off? Sorry if this seems obvious but without having the hub in front of me need to be sure to cover everything. Assuming the circlip is out the axle and non drive side bearing should be able to be driven out the non drive side. You must support the hub in a way that leaves space for the bearing to exit. If your only reason for working on the hub was to grease the driver bearings then you should probably just do that, and then put the driver back. Where does the driver hang up when trying to reinstall? Is it on the first part of the bearing seat trying to go into the drive side bearing? Or do you maybe need to screw it into the clutch lump? You can always email me photos and video etc to g at gsport dot co dot UK. Hope this helps.

George French I have removed the circlip - I’m going to use the email you provided. Thanks!

Have you tried adding a lot more grease? 99 times out of 100 this fixes any issues. You can add through the adjustment hole but will need to work it down to the driver end. Hope this helps.

Sorry to hear that, please contact warranty about a replacement.

Yes. Probably a good idea.

Yes. But if you just need to remove the collar then you should just be able to pull it off without disturbing the rest of the hub.

Stuck in there tight. Not coming out easily. Hard to get a grip on it. Moved it, maybe 1/16th out. Seeing what Phillip at Full Factory, suggests, also.

@@snivlem999 it should be very close to coming free now. It only grips on the end 1/8" or so. Removing the circlip and drifting the axle out the far side will definitely get it.

George French I wish the non-drive collar would come off easily. Stuck fast, too. Can’t get to clip. Thanks for the help, sir.

@@snivlem999 if necessary you can stick a screwdriver in the gap between the non -drive-collar and the hub-shell to pry it off. Just be careful not to mark the parts.

Hi Sergio, just loosen the side that you can and then bolt this up tight to a dropout (with the wheel outside the bike frame) then you can undo the stuck side. Hope this helps.

George French you are a rockstar! Worked!

same issue

Once you've removed everything else as shown above you can use something like a bit of old broom handle inserted from the non-drive side of the hub and a hammer to drive it out. Just take your time and vary where you hit the bearing to keep it straight on the way out. If it goes over at an angle then knock it back in a bit too straighten then try again. Don't just keep hitting. Hope this helps. Realistically this bearing should never need to be removed as it is strong enough to last the life of the hub. (ie. Indefinitely)

@@gsportgeorge Thanks a lot, but i seemed to have damaged mine somehow, it no longer spins smoothly. I do some pretty heavy riding though

@@AN1M3DR4W3R cool just wanted to check you weren't being over zealous.

When did you last add grease? Always first thing to try.

@@gsportgeorge about 8-9 months ago..

@@gsportgeorge even just hand tightening the wheel bolts make the cranks have resistance going backwards

@@gsportgeorge plus it was perfectly fine before I took the wheel off..

Should be the same as this video.

@@gsportgeorge its quite different.. it doesnt look like It's gonna slide out that way.. there is a cone shaped thing holding it in place

@@gsportgeorge there is no collar that pops off like that..

Sorry to hear of the issue. No that's not common. Is it possible that the collar has corroded onto the axle? Can you rotate the collar relative to the axle? Some penetrating oil between the axle and collar may help free it. Try to avoid using heat (as you say it will damage the plastic parts and seals). If the collar seems free on the axle then just keep turning the collar (either direction it back and forth) as you pull it out. Hope this helps.

Sorry to ask, but do your cranks spin without the chain on freely? And also your chain is not tight? However i'm not surprised that the hub doesn't crankflip well, if there was no resistance in the hub then it couldn't engage as the clutch would just spin with the driver instead of binding and moving into the hub to engage. It's another reason why this current design and KHE design is really quite bad.

Sorry for the hassle. Adjustment is essentially the same as any loose-ball pedal. What MTB pedals do you have?

@@gsportgeorge I got myself a pair of superstar nano x Evo pedals The plastic cones are a hassle and I definitely need to get new ones. After that it is bad but I was left asking "why?"