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George French
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2006
Rimpact vs Cushcore at 25psi
Ever wondered what happens to your tyre-liners inside your tyre where you can't see them? I have. Whilst the shrinkage of the Rimpact is startling, the Cushcore shrinks significantly too. The Rimpact shrinks by about 30% but it seems very dramatic along the length as it shrinks down in the chamber. Meanwhile the Cushcore "only" shrinks by about 20% but the longitudinal shrinkage seems smaller.
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sliding door rail bike storage rack
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Hanging bike rack made from sliding door rail hardware. About £150 all in. In my case I riveted the rail mounting brackets to the back of a big aluminium box section to make it stiff enough to span this wide gap and support a big shelf above. Hooks are just threaded bar bent in the vice and screwed up into the carriages, with air hose to protect rims.
Adjusting Odyssey Grandstand Pedal BMX
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How to adjust the play in a BMX pedal. Odyssey Grandstand pedal. Works for all looseball pedals too.
Clutch hub disassembly
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Odyssey Clutch Hub Disassembly how to. Sorry the focus is so bad, but this should get the job done until I can make a better version.
Keychain splitting
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Breaking/shortening the Odyssey Keychain. Alternative methods without a chain breaker.
Has anyone tried these for street or park BMX?
You'd need to be tubeless to use these and currently tubeless seems to be of limited value at the higher pressures of BMX.
Which one is which?
Black is Rimpact. Grey is Cushcore
@@gsportgeorge thanks. Has anyone really tested these for BMX? I’ve seen a lot of MTB riders use them
Thanks for the video! Couple of questions if I may, the fitting track, does it come with wholes and fixings to fit on the ceiling, and how long was the M8 bolt you used and what did you use to bend it? Thanks!
Yes, holes in the top. I used M8 studding in 1m lengths and just cut into thirds. Bent in a vice with hand pressure and a hammer.
Thank you, really good project.
Anybody else have problems removing the cir clip. Any tips?
The obvious answer is circle pliers, but I appreciate that lots of people don't have them. If you have some fine needle nose pliers then they might work.
i don’t understand why the plastic here is so soft and easy to ruin, you made it look so easy 😪
Fantastic. Thank u 4showing th internals. I'm thbicycle king of kings. Always was. This pedal drew me here. There is more 2this pedal then u or Dugan think. Very good points u made. Powder paint ...& center beam reduce flex. Wow if that guy uses them? Man they must have strong spindle u guyz really wring your pedals dry. Hmmmm. I am a top speed pavement flatliner Walmart hump. I just commute. But i LEAN on it. Wouldnt a stiff spindle be desirable? I always run a smoth max surface concave pkatform 2increase sole of show efficientcy. Some spindles now are real short or tapered DOWN. Mine are 7mm to 10mm. These are 14mm? Wow. What a joke (todays) spindles are. I dunno I like th old school BMX paradigms. I just couldnt bring myself buy th spindly Mt. Bike pedals with new age teeny bearings or bogus bushings. I think i like the ultra size spindle approach 4 hammering steep country roads with 100lb chicken feed. I want stiff. Spikes: Delete spikes. Lockin should be sandpaper. Everytime. Not that u even need it. Anything sinks in your rubber sole? Yea that is your energy going out thdoor & i mean a LOT of it. Say no2 studs. Say no tiny pedals say no 2thin rat trap surfaces. Would be nice if u measured width length in MM. Ok i am seeing 105 108length online. This looking real good. Most pedals 90 mil length. Hmmm. Weight in grams would be good but who cares if i have FLAT CONCAVE MAX surface & maxed out spindle. Good big round bearings. I wear crocs while gobsmacking thlocal country hics who never saw how fast a former champion can bicycle. I used 2climb Mt. Wilson on a 53t chainring to a 21t rear cog. I like the Rock Brothers. Extra Wide model 120mm long. But... aint gonna run with this spindle on this Dugan. I took my bare spindle off & set my leg on it. Oh yea. That garbage is flexing. So then i put a crescent wrench on it... Yikes. Oh yea this BMX pedal is th1 4meee. No doubt. Well , now I am glad my TMC Sport blew out. It made me realize about th spindles massive significance. Glad my teeny weany bearings shattered. This pedsal doesnt even realize how good it is. Congradulations Odyssey. "I chose your pedal." Odyssey Grand Stand Alloy. 👍 I also designed wrlds best quick release/or entry toe clip. Any1 out there want a wrlds best pedal design i will design it 4u. Free of charge. It will destroy every othet pedal was ever made.
Hold it in the air, instead of the vice, you damage the flanges.
Hi, love this idea and was looking to make one myself. I wondered if you had a link to the parts you used, particularly the roller trollies as I'm struggling to find ones that will accept some standard threaded bar. Many thanks
I used Rollan 80 which I got from SDS London. I didn't know before I bought it what size thread it used but it turned out to be M8. Hope this helps
@@gsportgeorge thanks very much for the quick reply. I assume you could just fit a nut to secure the threaded bar into the resess on the top/centre of the trolley?
@@888rc2xva as long as there is clearance inside your rail I think that would be fine. But all the ones I looked at had a captive nut inside anyway
Hi! I will be surprized if you will responde but... I have a very bad problem with my clutch v2, I have very severe ghost pedaling issue and when im cruising, after I stop pedaling it makes a click noise, Its not from the chain because it does the same thing even if i rotate the driver by hand. And I have e very severe resistance on the pedals if i tighten my wheel ever slighty, I dissasambled it and cleaned it, NO parts are broken, everything its fine, i regreased it but the problems remained, I dissasembled it 8 times, everytime using a different type of grease but nothing makes it work. Out of anger I sprayed break cleaner trought the hole and all the problems except the clicking noise dissapeared but returned after 4 days of riding, please help me, i had this hub for 2 years, the ghost pedaling came first progresevly worse, but now its unrideable, No parts are broken, it worked 2 years perfectly, the bike com[any were i boughtit from doesent want to help and i am from europe!!!!!!!!! please help!!!
This sort of thing is usually better by email but let's have a go. I know you say you have tried multiple greases etc, but 9 times out of 10 any problem is down to a lack of grease. Really lard it on. If that really isn't the problem then the next logical step is to ask if anything has changed. Putting anything between the axle and the dropout is nearly always a disaster, so if you've recently added a dive side guard in there it then try taking it back out. Similarly if your dropouts are damaged or bent that can cause problems, ideally try the hub on another bike. Lastly, if none of this is the cause, then it rather stands to reason that something is damaged or broken. Examine everything carefully, maybe you managed to bend the axle (though this is incredibly unusual), maybe there is a crack in the drive side collar or the clutch itself. Is the drive side angular contact bearing OK (and is it in the right way round)? Hope something here helps and please feel free to email me directly with photos etc.
@@gsportgeorge Hi! thanks for the response! Can you leave me your email please? I will explain it better there, I really want to solve this problem, thanks for your help!
@@sergiuzsr g at gsport dot co dot uk
@@gsportgeorge Hi! Looks like the lack of grease was the problem as you said. I'm really surprised that it worked! Everything is fine now and the bike rides perfectly. Thanks a lot!
Hello i am just curious. The c clip what it does to the bearing ? Whats its function?
It's purpose is to fully retain the non drive side bearing. This is what ensures the axial location of the hub on the axle. Without it, it is possible that tricks like tailwhips would slowly drive the hub over towards the driver side. This is all part of letting the driver side bearings "float" axially which saves them from huge axial loads in use.
@@gsportgeorge sir actually i have wtp helix hub v3 i just bought it and the stord where it came from built it . I use once when i did 180 on a small drop something snaped on back wheel.. we troubleshoot it many times still whem we tight the driver also tightens. Whdn i went home i found in thd box the c clip still pack and i wonder where if came from only to find out my hub maybe wasnt properly installed. As i went here on your video i saw the driver is same with my with bearing bemeath it so maybe i am hopefull i can still save my freecoaster
@@ashleymateo3034 bit cumbersome talking through yt comments. Do you want to drop me an email to g at gsport .co.uk.
@@gsportgeorge sure sir ill send now
@@gsportgeorge the email is invalid sir
Just changed tyres. Forgot I blew up my drive side collar. It's in 4 pieces, placed that shit back like a god and bolted her back up. Now watching this for a more reasonable solution 😭😅🤦🏿♂️😂
Sorry to hear it. Get on to warranty, they should be able to hook you up.
@@gsportgeorge is it bad that I didn't even think of that. 😂. Probs had it 6 month. Tbh I've been trying to dial down my tail whips and I've been crashing hard. It's a customer issue, not manefacturer lol
@@FAHRENHEIT451JL it's designed to be ridden hard, collar shouldn't break, I'm sure we can warranty it for you.
@@gsportgeorge ill put an email in. I've got some major drag on it. Spun my vandero once, spun the clutch 3 times and when the rear stopped the front was still going strong , so I need help either way. ( definitely down to the before mentioned.) I really appreciate your reply George. I've got so much love for odessey; you just took it to the moon. Enjoy your weekend fella!!! 💪
@@gsportgeorge sorry to ask fella. My drive side collar is stuck and will not come out. I've got the v2. Any advise
My hub is slipping, what should I do?
how to make pegs like that?
These are just prototype G-Sport Pleg2's
thanks man
Thank u for video
Hey @george french i have everything of my hub except the driver side bearing how can i get it out needs replacing
You should be able to press the driver out and then the bearing. You will need something like a large socket that can fit through the conical shell liner to push against the driver and then the bearing. I hope this helps.
What do you do when the driver comes out and leaves the drive side bearing still in the hub
Do you need to remove the bearing?
Yes! I need to replace mine. What’s the best method for removing the driver side bearing wants to driver is already out?
So…. what I did to remove the drive side, bearing once the driver was already removed was use my park tool RT - 1. It is a headset and bottom bracket cup removal tool. I inserted it into my hub upside down. I used the end that you would typically hit with a hammer to rest against the inner race of the bearing . It fit perfectly inside the inner bearing race and free a few taps on the opposite end, I was able to pop it right out.
On that pedal does that axle come out if you spin that bolt all the way out? Jw bc im trying to figure out how to take these exact pedals apart. Im getting the pedal coated so i need the axles out
Yes. Undo the lockout completely, then unscrew the cone completely and it will all come apart. Hope this helps.
@@gsportgeorge thanks will get back to you!
super helpful thanks!
What can i do if my drive side collar is stuck ?
Just follow the rest of the instructions and the collar will be left behind in the driver as you drive the axle out the otherside. Hope this helps.
@@gsportgeorge it worked thank you 😊
For some reason my V2 clutch hub ist having problems with the slack, its not slipping but i once put the axle on with all the hardware on without the shell so i can see whats going on and i realized that the clutch as soon as its engaged to pedal forward it slips of the resistantce mechanism even if the slack is at it’s minimum the only thing i swapped is the drive side colar because it blew up.
Sorry, can't really follow your description of the problem. Might be easier if you email me, g at gsport dot co dot UK and explain what the problem is when the hub is assembled and maybe add photos or video explanation.
Can I still ride my wheel with the grub all the way in?
Be better not to. It really should come out the hole with a bit of shaking. You might need to stick a screwdriver through the hole to push the helical adjuster halves back together. Otherwise just follow the video to take it apart.
My bolt disappeared when I tightened the slack
So what will have happened is that you've screwed the grub screw all the way through the helical adjuster. If you shake the hub about with the access hole as the lowest point you should be able to retrieve it. Then you just need to line the hole in the shell up with the correct thread hole in the helical adjuster half nearest the drive side and put it back in. Hope this helps.
@@gsportgeorge it's not coming out🥺
my clutch v2 is having a really hard time moving in either direction, no problems and then i put my wheel on my new frame and it feels like the chain is too tight no matter how loose i run it, added grease, made sure my half link was facing the right way, and added spacers to space out the sprocket and align the chain better. any ideas? im going to take it apart right now.
update: i started taking it apart and my driver started coming out easily by hand, but all of the needles of the driver were sitting loose in the hub, is that not something that is just set in or should it be able to come apart like that? (this hub was taken apart before at my local bmx shop to replace the axle, maybe that is why it is loose?)
Was going to suggest putting it back in your old frame to see if the frame is somehow responsible but sounds like you've moved on from there. The needles should be in a cage. If the cage has broken then it will obviously need a new cage assembly. Is there significant wear or corrosion visible? How long have you had the hub?
Can you switch drive side
No. Sorry shells and drivers are side specific.
Hey George, I’ve been riding the Clutch V2 coaster for about a year and a half and it’s doing great. Very stable and durable. My driver feels rough, and I’d like to take it out to clean the needle bearing, but the collar won’t come off. I read your other comments, so I’m going to try to use penetrating oil. My question is, when you say to tighten the non drive side onto the dropout, do I still need to pull off that large cone nut in order to pull the driveside collar out, or will it come out whilst the non-driveside is bolted down with the cone nut still on? If it comes out without taking off the non-driveside cone nut, please let me know so that I don’t damage my hub trying to take it out. Thanks!
Hi Dude, Sorry not following your description very well. There are no cone nuts, just push fit collars. All you need to do is pull hard. If it is corroded on there then some penetrating spray is a good start. Bolting the other side of the hub to something to help you pull is one way to go but not really going to help enormously. If you can get the non-drive-side collar off, then you can remove the circlip on the non drive side and this will let you knock the axle out as shown in the video, which will release the drive side collar. Maybe watch the video again to get what I mean. Hope this helps.
George French appreciate it, I wasn’t sure if that piece you pulled off along with the bolt was a cone but or an axle so I just had to guess what to call it haha
George French I’ve got the driveside collar out now, but the driver came out when I pulled it out, and now it won’t go back in completely. I don’t believe there is any damage because it engages and disengages, but I can’t seem to drift the axle through the non-driveside and the non-driveside bearing seems to have drifted more towards the center of the hub somehow.
@@pejotaforpres have you taken the circlip off? Sorry if this seems obvious but without having the hub in front of me need to be sure to cover everything. Assuming the circlip is out the axle and non drive side bearing should be able to be driven out the non drive side. You must support the hub in a way that leaves space for the bearing to exit. If your only reason for working on the hub was to grease the driver bearings then you should probably just do that, and then put the driver back. Where does the driver hang up when trying to reinstall? Is it on the first part of the bearing seat trying to go into the drive side bearing? Or do you maybe need to screw it into the clutch lump? You can always email me photos and video etc to g at gsport dot co dot UK. Hope this helps.
George French I have removed the circlip - I’m going to use the email you provided. Thanks!
My coaster is skipping like 6 times before it engages and it does it every time I pedal and it’s broken do you know what I can do
Have you tried adding a lot more grease? 99 times out of 100 this fixes any issues. You can add through the adjustment hole but will need to work it down to the driver end. Hope this helps.
Thanks !
Clutch v2 - my drive side collar has snapped. Can’t seem to pull out the collar, just comes out a bit. Any help?
Sorry to hear that, please contact warranty about a replacement.
This was perfect! Many thanks!
I have a v2 with a very stuck on driver collar! Whats the best way to pull that off?
Should I take mine apart if it’s making bad cracking sounds when I pedal? Sounds like a bearing is shot
Yes. Probably a good idea.
Same steps for V2? Cracked driver collar and need to remove it.
Yes. But if you just need to remove the collar then you should just be able to pull it off without disturbing the rest of the hub.
Stuck in there tight. Not coming out easily. Hard to get a grip on it. Moved it, maybe 1/16th out. Seeing what Phillip at Full Factory, suggests, also.
@@snivlem999 it should be very close to coming free now. It only grips on the end 1/8" or so. Removing the circlip and drifting the axle out the far side will definitely get it.
George French I wish the non-drive collar would come off easily. Stuck fast, too. Can’t get to clip. Thanks for the help, sir.
@@snivlem999 if necessary you can stick a screwdriver in the gap between the non -drive-collar and the hub-shell to pry it off. Just be careful not to mark the parts.
Hi George I would like some help here please if you don’t mind. I recently bought the complete Gsport Rib x V2 wheel and for some reason I cannot loosen the bolts. What I mean is one side loosens and the other tightens and vice versa.. help! :) it’s more than likely what I am doing wrong but it’s my first time with a coaster so not sure what to do. I am just trying to loosen both sides to put the wheel on. Thanks!
Hi Sergio, just loosen the side that you can and then bolt this up tight to a dropout (with the wheel outside the bike frame) then you can undo the stuck side. Hope this helps.
George French you are a rockstar! Worked!
Thank youuuuuuuu sm
Thanks so much
can you do a video on slack.. ie tightened to engage with no slack instants pedal pressure do's and don'ts when in this mode.. and is there such thing as instant pedal pressure with the v2 clutch or is there all ways going to be slack even in minimal slack mode if it is instant pedal pressure can you still freecoast backwards or is freecoaster only work when there is slack on the cranks
i have the v2 hub and i cant seem to get the collar off any tips?
same issue
Watching him made my hands shaky hah (holding my phone)
great video, what would be the best way to remove the drive side bearing
Once you've removed everything else as shown above you can use something like a bit of old broom handle inserted from the non-drive side of the hub and a hammer to drive it out. Just take your time and vary where you hit the bearing to keep it straight on the way out. If it goes over at an angle then knock it back in a bit too straighten then try again. Don't just keep hitting. Hope this helps. Realistically this bearing should never need to be removed as it is strong enough to last the life of the hub. (ie. Indefinitely)
@@gsportgeorge Thanks a lot, but i seemed to have damaged mine somehow, it no longer spins smoothly. I do some pretty heavy riding though
@@AN1M3DR4W3R cool just wanted to check you weren't being over zealous.
My rollers were all rusted im going cassete
Thanks man quick video informitatove took my v2 apart in minites thanks again
Helpful, thanks!
When i tighten the wheel the cranks dont move back freely.. the chain is still loose.. what could be the issue. I have the odyssey clutch v2..
When did you last add grease? Always first thing to try.
@@gsportgeorge about 8-9 months ago..
@@gsportgeorge even just hand tightening the wheel bolts make the cranks have resistance going backwards
@@gsportgeorge plus it was perfectly fine before I took the wheel off..
no berings
How do you get the axle off on the clutch v2?
Should be the same as this video.
@@gsportgeorge its quite different.. it doesnt look like It's gonna slide out that way.. there is a cone shaped thing holding it in place
@@gsportgeorge there is no collar that pops off like that..
I have a clutch V2 wheel and my drive side collar wont come out of the hub. I work at a shop and none of the other mechanics were able to get it out. I would put a blow torch to it but I am worried about possibly melting/damaging the plastic gap mechanism. Is this a common issue or am I just doing something wrong? fyi i have had this wheel for almost a year
Sorry to hear of the issue. No that's not common. Is it possible that the collar has corroded onto the axle? Can you rotate the collar relative to the axle? Some penetrating oil between the axle and collar may help free it. Try to avoid using heat (as you say it will damage the plastic parts and seals). If the collar seems free on the axle then just keep turning the collar (either direction it back and forth) as you pull it out. Hope this helps.
I just got the hub and it won't spin fast enough for crankflips.
Sorry to ask, but do your cranks spin without the chain on freely? And also your chain is not tight? However i'm not surprised that the hub doesn't crankflip well, if there was no resistance in the hub then it couldn't engage as the clutch would just spin with the driver instead of binding and moving into the hub to engage. It's another reason why this current design and KHE design is really quite bad.
thanx for all youve done bmx is better because of your thoughts
These pedals are so annoying. Would never buy again, the plastic caps are so difficult to remove on mine that I ended up destroying them. This whole procedure unnecessarily complicated. With my pedals on my MTB, all I have to do is tighten the outer nut, and done.
Sorry for the hassle. Adjustment is essentially the same as any loose-ball pedal. What MTB pedals do you have?
@@gsportgeorge I got myself a pair of superstar nano x Evo pedals The plastic cones are a hassle and I definitely need to get new ones. After that it is bad but I was left asking "why?"