วีดีโอ

Need one rn

Thanks! The default agitation mode is intermittent, so that you can use the same instructions as for manual developing, like: agitate 10s every minute, etc But you can also set it for continuous rotation, which is more commonly used in large format (sheet) film.

Good question! Actually the bottom of the magnet disc is flat and the pulling force doesn't need to be that strong. So after 100+ tests with a single tank I see maybe some slight circular scratches at the most, but nothing that would affect the long term operation: no groove getting digged at the bottom or anything like that.

Opening price is about $200. That makes it one-third the price of the cheesy, unprogrammed, unheated, water bath system from Filmomat. It's $100 less than the APO unit which just mounts to the top of a Paterson tank, programmed but unheated, and uses battery power for its agitation system. For me, its short-coming is that it seems to require use of a Paterson tank, which I hold to be the cheapest form of poorly made crap. I suspect that some other brands of tank might fit it, the critical issue being diameter such that the tank fits down into "hole". Since the diameter of Paterson and other reels are basically the same, I expect that the unique magnetic adapter fitted inside the tank to provide agitation will work with other tanks or can be modified to fit. Finally, an automatic tank processor which seems to have it all and does so at a reasonable price.

That looks to be Kimtech tissue or Pec Pads.

@@qmigui Thank you

Pec Pads, they don't scratch the film and are lint-free. They're also great for removing remjet residue when developing ECN-2 movie film.

@@pira_mx Despite fotoflo and a finger swipe, I still get drying marks sometimes. I’m going to try these. Cheers.

@@mynewcolour Your problem is that you are using hard tap water in your Photoflo mix, so the dissolved chemicals in that water are leaving a dried residue on the film. Pec Pads are not going to solve that problem. Just mix the final rinse (Photoflo) with distilled or deionized water, and skip wiping your wet emulsions.

Hello, for CNC/3D printer integration the user has to do the final adaptation to their existing system since I only sell the dispenser.

Yes! it's a very nice feature. It doesn't replace a dedicated pick up tool for large jobs but it's great for a small batch of boards or single prototypes.

Hello Keith, thanks for your comments. Yes, I've used it with all kinds of adhesives including cyanoacrylates. You just need to be careful to prevent the tip from drying up and blocking the syringe. Also you're right regarding the IV line or small tubing for easier refilling, I should try it out. I don't know if it would work well for pastes, but it shouldn't be a problem for low viscosity adhesives, good idea for a future accessory. Cheers!

@@pira_mx Cool! Thanks for the update. BTW, I linked to your project in this *awesome* video on CNC'ed inlays (th-cam.com/video/FCO9VWLjgvc/w-d-xo.html) and suggest that he add it to his workflow, so he could more easily place exactly as much glue needed, exactly where it is needed, and, perhaps, placing tiny inlay pieces. I hope that he does follow up on it. (You can find my comment near the top if you want to add to the conversation.)

@@KeithOlson Thanks! I'll be checking it out.

Yes of course, that will be out very soon

Hello, yes the dispenser is still available. The smaller recommended needle size is 22ga (color blue) for high viscosity fluids like solder pastes.

You probably dont give a damn but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me

@Kellen Kye Instablaster =)

@Elisha Arturo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Elisha Arturo it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thank you so much, you saved my account!

@Kellen Kye You are welcome =)

Hello, yes I've thought about using the existing 10cc syringes but unfortunately there's not a standard shape that all paste manufacturers use, furthermore the included piston is not designed to interface with the motor leadscrew so it would need to be changed anyway... more hassle than just transferring the paste to another syringe. You're correct in that a small amount is needed at the needle/tip to start the flow, but the kit includes a small rubber cap which can be used to prevent the solder at the tip from drying out. This allows you to leave the tip in place and re-start dispensing at a later date with zero waste.

@@pira_mx Thanks for your reply!

@@pira_mx Is "another syringe" some standard one that can be bought anywhere? (need to transferring paste/flux, need to take out label from original syringe and put on custom one etc is something that makes me to look for other, very low volume, "hobby" targeted solutions currently). Edit: ok, I see that syringes are not enough. Would need to have few piston holders, too.

@@arekx Hello! yes the fluid you want to dispense needs to be transferred to the 30cc syringe. You can certainly buy them on places like eBay or Amazon, however you'll only find them in bulk: boxes of 20pcs and with caps sold separately. If you need smaller quantities I do sell them on my store with caps included. And finally regarding the piston holder, there's no need to have one per syringe, since you can swap out the actual plunger (the part that is in contact with the material) when changing the barrel. Most customers find that the two included holders are enough for their needs. Cheers!

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it

Hello, heating the bed is not necessary for dispensing. Solder pastes sold in syringe presentation work better than the ones sold in small jars, the reason is they have lower viscosity which makes it easier to control.

@@pira_mx Thank you, glad to know these.

Hi Samuel, that's what one would think but when the solder re-flows (reaches it melting point) at a specified temperature, the solder will gather onto each pad individually because of a solder mask thats placed onto the printed circuit board. The mask will prevent solder bridges from forming between the closely spaced pads. I do admit though that from time to time its not perfect and you have to clear a bridge or two between pads. I hope this helps to answer your question.

William is right, the surface tension of the melted solder paste will make it stick to the pads and prevent bridges. Although obviously all pastes are different and some testing is required to find out the right amount for a particular brand/type of paste and pin pitch.