วีดีโอ

What are you building?

Got an 01 SS New 383 setup with custom cam and heads Built racing trans and a moser 12 bolt with 3.73s Plus a 200 shot Been waiting too long dammit

@@GreasyMooseKnuckle69 That's going to be a serious weapon 👍

@@LSxMotorsports2021 that's the plan 😁 Hoping for around 500 on the motor WeaponX

You should hit that number no problem.

Yeah it's an old video, shooting these videos and editing them takes time to learn. Still haven't got it just right but getting better.

Well I am new to this problem too. I would check the 2 wires that plugs into the alternator. Make sure there isn't any breaks in the wire or any missing insulation exposing bare wire. You could also check ground wires to the body. Sometimes they corrode bad enough they cause electrical issues.

@LSxMotorsports2021 yeah I'm going to have to go through the whole cars wiring and fuses at this point. One second its at 11.8 the next it's at 14.6 and it just jumps back and forth

Yeah electrical issues are the worst. Sometimes very difficult to diagnose. Good luck.

Thanks. Hope yours is great too.

I agree 👍

Not sure of the power number because it's never been on a dyno.

It is from Speed engineering. It is a dual 3" system.

Yes It is a good system. Makes it much easier to tune.

About 55000 miles

Headers,Exhaust,CAI,3:73 gears,BTR stage 1 cam and drag radials.

​@@LSxMotorsports2021quick car !

Glad the video helped.Thanks for watching.

This video also saves me approximately $20-$40 in labor, 😁

Yeah it always pays to do what maintenance you can yourself. Everything cost so much these days.

I agree.

I honestly never really paid much attention to it, it does go a little higher but not maxed out. But it really doesn't get driven in the cold and stays in a temperature controlled garage. My truck on the other hand has a digital read out and it usually runs 10 -15 pounds more oil pressure when cold. So I wouldn't worry about it. When it runs low when hot is when you need to worry. Just drive it easy until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

I meant cold start by the way

@misterglock.4282 OK but it still will read higher until it reaches operating temperature. You may need to replace your oil pressure sensor it could be getting weak. Of course as long as it is not leaking you may want to wait. They are a real pain to change because of the location.

I get what your saying. But you don't install all this stuff at once. These are modifications made over a long period of time. And as far as a stroker motor or LS swap your still going to need all the bolt on parts for your new engine for it to perform. You're still going to need the suspension parts for it to put the power down. Throw a stroker motor in this car with everything else being stock your not going to be much faster than the stock motor. If money isn't an issue then just buy a 6th gen ZL1 and leave it stock.

No E85 in this area unfortunately.

Yeah I am sticking with the cheap stuff too.

The highest I can get in my area is 91.

Yes we are all getting ripped off on everything these days.

No it has Headers,Exhaust,CAI,1.6 Roller rockers and ported stock heads and drag radials. Stock cam and converter. It also has the torqhead kit to replace the Opti.

Oh okay I see, thanks!!

I have done alot of tuning on the MAF trying to dial it in. But I also modified the MAF by removing the screen so it actually would be worth a try putting the screen back in and seeing if that cures the problem. Unfortunately that will have to wait until spring now but that's a great idea to try just to see if it cures my problem. Thanks.

@@LSxMotorsports2021 That screen helps keep the flow laminar. It should help the MAF read better at part throttle. And even more so if you have an aftermarket CAI Putting a BTR LVL 1 V2 in my ZO6 (LS6 this winter). 🥸

That's a good cam choice.👍

Yeah I still have it. It's been doing good so far. I had to do the rear brakes so I just went ahead and did the front and back but the front brakes would have lasted atleast a couple more years. Had to replace the lower ball joints but I blame that on extremely bad roads. For me this has been a great truck. Lots of videos on this channel of the truck. Thanks for watching and commenting I really appreciate it.

@LSxMotorsports2021 Thank you for the good news about the durability on the Chevy Colorado & all the invaluable & informative information. Luckily I live in South Florida, so all of our roads are pretty much perfectly smooth here, so hopefully I won't have any ball joint issues👍🏾

Well if it didn't make the noise before you had the new axle installed I would say most likely something was done wrong. You could start by checking the fluid level. If your car has the limited slip diff that uses the clutches the mechanic may not put in the limited slip additive which will cause the clutches to make noise.

There’s no way to check it without opening the differential right?

You don't have to open it up. There is a fill plug just turn it out and usually fluid will drip out as soon as you remove it and if not you can use your finger to check the level. If it's full I betting you have the diff that requires the limited slip additive.

@@LSxMotorsports2021 I’m gonna update you on the results soon. Thanks for responding!

Thank you for watching and commenting really helps the channel.

Yeah the 4th gens are great cars for the money.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment really appreciate it.

It's been awhile since I did this video. I removed all the trim and screws and then I was able to pry the door panel forward enough to get a hold of the lock rod and pull it up which allowed the door to open. Before I did that the lock rod was sunk down too far to get a hold of it. But you're door could have a different problem than mine so no way to know if that will work for you. But I did post a link in the comments for another video that can help you get your door open.

@LSxMotorsports2021 just to update you. I got it open

That's awesome. If you have any tips that are not in this video I am sure alot of people would appreciate it. Unfortunately this video isn't that helpful for most people with this problem. And thank you for watching and commenting I really appreciate it.

He needs alot of things for the car. The injectors were running at 100% duty cycle during all those runs which isn't good.

@ ohhh yeah that’s not good!

It definitely is worth it if you're testing new parts to see if they improve performance.

@@LSxMotorsports2021 It takes quite a bit to knock just one second of stock time.

@ Yes it does for sure.

Yeah it's a drag radial so needs some heat in it to stick.

What sucks more is he forgot to video it with the Draggy.

SLP lid with SSRA, BBK Longtube headers and Speed engineering true dual exhaust, 3:73 gears, and BTR stage 1 cam.

Well I try not to show too much because I really am not qualified to teach tuning because I am still learning myself but in the future I will try to show more. Thanks for watching.

Well you could but it would be alot of work. I am assuming you have a V6 Firebird. It can be done but most likely cheaper to sell the V6 car and buy a good V8 car.

@ yes it’s a v6 that’s been in my family for a while and I want to restore and upgrade it

OK well it can be done. Easiest way is to find a donor car. Something that runs but has been wrecked or maybe has rust damage so you can get it cheap but still has everything you need to make the V8 swap.

@@LSxMotorsports2021 thanks

No the 2 power wires can go either way but you have to be sure the ground wire is correct.

@LSxMotorsports2021 thanks bud! Helpful video

Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it.