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Awesome Keith! I'll look forward to seeing you!

Don't use aerosol unless it's in really thin layers. I have lost the details because I was too heavy.

Yes it really is fun to operate, even if tiny!

It's a solid 3D resin print from @buntersyard. I'll have to look into those tools you speak of.

The mechanical rods control the turnouts, a swing gate, some signalling and the three uncouplers. The wires all power the track. Nothing more complicated than that, sir.

Ha ha thank you. Has it reached 100 views yet? 😂

He he! Yes I think you are correct! 😂

I think so. Maybe just as STL files on thingiverse. I have to get them reliable first. I have another design on the go for servo operation.

Custom designed and made by me.

@@Nurwin1 They'd be great for O-16.5 too, if using mini TLs👍💜😊✌️

You've given me an idea for my layout I might draw some up and print them on the 3d printer.

Most use a mix of 50/50 PVA / Water with a couple of drops of washing up liquid.

And that is exactly what I used on the first module and will do again on this one too.

Pva / water 50/50 as per Nurwin1's comment.

@@Nurwin1 With that lovely cork underlay, to provide noise reduction, I'd consider using Copydex or similar 🤔😉😉

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout See my above reply👍💜😊✌️

Well it's good to hear. 😂😂

That is very true about quality.

Thank you very much. I do have a tender wagon with pickups. I need to change to thinner cables between the loco and the tender as the wires are too stiff and cause more derailments!

Thank you for the great and detailed information. I did not know 95% of that. I do have a 3d printed back to back gauge that works very well at regauging the wheels.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout A brass "Back to Back" gauge also has a slot in it for the axle, which also allows for any "spur gears on the axle" (i.e. Locomotive geared wheels). It also has to be strong enough to ensure wheels are not bent out of line. So being metal it is strong enough to force the wheels apart (if to narrow) or allows you to squeeze the wheels together, while the "BtoB" gauge remains between the wheels ! I'm not sure anything printed out of a 3D printer, would be nearly strong enough !!!! Indeed I always recommend to any modeller that you will need to have a proper "BtoB" gauge in your tool box. A BtoB gauge is simultaenously the "Adjusting tool" to correct inaccuracies !!! Further if a steam loco needs its wheels adjusted (and ALL Hornby locos need adjusting) because they are actually produced by PIKO in China (not Hornby)! Then you will also need the little Hornby "Con Rod Nut removal Spanner" (R913) Costs about £5. Which allows you to remove the coupling rods, so you can then remove each axle individually. There is also a similar tool for steam locos using Romford wheels and axles, available ONLY from the wheel manufacturing specialists "Markits", (Price £5.70 currently). Such models have split head nuts holding the wheels to the axle, so this special tool is like a screw driver with a dual point head. Virtually all kit & specialist model steam locos use this system. I used Romford Nickel Silver steam loco Driving wheels on a number of Hornby locos when the Hornby Chrome finish on the wheel treads wears out. When the chrome finish wears off, the locos wheels will get filthy in just a couple of laps of the layout, causing the loco to start jerking and stalling. Romford Nickel Silver Wheels don't wear out, and give MUCH better current Collection & seriously improve Adhesion (makes the loco pull much better). Especially if you use modern Nickel Silver track such as PECO !!!!

@@railwaymechanicalengineer4587 well, thanks again for the amazing information. Super useful.

Ahh good idea! I bet your rails are shiny!

Thank you, but too late! 😂😂

What made up stop with it, may I ask?

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout my lack of skill with tinkercad... I couldn't quite get the bits to work. I was surprised I couldn't find an STL on the general web, as actually a smart solution!

It's not the neatness, it's the fact that it's in the way. Darn it! 😂

Thank you for the information Brian. Very much appreciated. 👌😊👍

Yep, spot on, such parts are worth their weight, micro switches too, a good source of modelling parts. These videos domonstrate good use of CAD and 3DP. As you say a clever chap👍

@@musoseven8218 Thank you for the kind words. And I'll keep an eye out for dvd players and the like.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout 👍👍😉😊😊

Yes, I guess 00 gauge small tension lock couplings should like quite descrete on 7mm. I'd like to see it once you start to fit them.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout I did trial them on 7mm Standard gauge stock, made up a jig etc, but they were a phaff to fit and each wagon was bespoke. If I get them to work on 7 NG, I might post a short video. I'm kinda hoping that Bachmann might make their NG7 chopper couplings commercially available 🤞🤞🙏🙏🤫🤭😉

@@musoseven8218 fingers crossed. Have you approached them about it?

@@musoseven8218 www.accucraft.uk.com/products/chopper-couplings/ Are these any use?

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout Not yet, it's on a long to do list though😉😀

I must confess it's not my idea. A friend on Instagram came up with the idea.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout 👍👍😊

Cool! Er.. I hope you mean a layout, not a packet of filters! 😂 But in all seriousness, what is stopping you? This layout is only 4' (1200mm) long and 18" (450mm) wide. You could store it under a bed, on top of a wardrobe. Maybe stood on end between a cupboard and a wall. Do it man. Stop thinking bout it and start building it.

@@paulhayton3423 Thank you man!

Wow! That sounds incredible. Do you have any links to videos or photos. Is live to see it altogether!

Thank you very much. Yes DC only as the layout is very small and I can't really justify the cost of adding DCC chips to all of my locos. I'd rather have a new loco than two or three chips. Plus the cost of a super expensive controller for dcc.

That sounds like a great Shilton. Do you have pictures or videos of your baseboard? Also if you check the second video in this series "the track" you will see I be also recessed done switches so they don't protrude past the edge too.

Good selection. So far just car aerosol primer and then acrylic paint. Next will be a wash and then dry brush. All acrylic.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout It all looks very good👍👍 Looking forward to seeing it progress 👍👍 I've mostly switched to acrylics, for health and domestic harmony reasons, I mainly use common or garden types, unless certain pre boxed/bottled versions are up to scratch and make life easier. I've tried various military modelling paints/effects pre mixed/bottled, but I end up using 3-6 basic products in similar tones, colours, hues that I used in enamels and various techniques for washes, texture etc, I've used for decades. There are some filters that are useful to let down colour. Cheap and cheerful is often my methodology though 🤞🤞👍👍💜😊

@@musoseven8218 Thank you. And regards to acrylic paint, I totally agree, especially with the fumes. Also being able to wash equipment with water is very nice too. I can do most things I want in acrylic. I do use some specialist oil brushers here and there. Mainly on locos, not wagons.

@@dibsyardshuntinglayout I agree fully, acrylics aren't perfect, but they're much more friendly to use👍💜💜

Yes I have seen his videos, thank you, but I can't afford to replace all my stock with KDs. Thank you for the suggestion though.

@dibsyardshuntinglayout I'm sorry, I did not mean to suggest for you to change your couplers! I do think your uncoupling idea for the tension locks was elegant.

@@peterpocock9062 don't worry, I didn't take it that way. I'd love KDs... But I cannot change now. Too invested! 😂😂

It may be. Who is asking please?

Mia

@@staceyWodarek-Black Ahhh! Hello Mia. Yes it is the Merridae you know from Razz.

I'll pass that on mum. Xx

Thank you very much!