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I have seen lampshades closed at the top in a workbook I have by Katrin Cargill. A blog linked below from Dannells actually shows the details. The frame in this sample is designed to hold up in the centre so you probably should look out for something similar. Most importantly use a low watt LED BULB that does not touch the shade anywhere. www.dannellsblog.com/post/book-review-lampshades-by-katrin-cargill

It does annoy sometimes, other people have told us too. We don't put music behind the 'how-to' videos anymore because of this. Thanks for the comment.

The fabric will only burn if the the light bulb gets HOT And, IF the bulb is TOO CLOSE to the shade. These days the bulbs are made of LEDs and they stay quite cool. There is much less chance for heat to come from the bulb so the fabric is quite safe from burning. However, is still important to use a shade that is big enough - you should be able to get your hand up between the buld and shade. Of course ALL the wiring must be entirely up to best practice safetly standards.

@@chezmaisonhome Thanks for your answer

That's lovely to hear, this is the reason why we made the video. I'd had hoped to give enough information so people could have confidence to undertake a personal project and still get results. Many thanks for letting us know. Kind regards, Isabella.

The tape used to cover the frame inside is a cotton tape, 12mm twill. On the outside we used a piece of vintage dress woven trim. Upholstery trims like narrow gimp is often used to cover the stitching. Or you can make your own matching bias trim out of your fabric like I did in the video: th-cam.com/video/X_iICHKFaCc/w-d-xo.html There is also a close up of the white twill cotton tape in that video. This tape is generally available online.

This link is for a company based in the UK who specialise in lamapshade making and supplies. www.dannells.com/frames---soft--pleated-shades-182-c.asp

Thank you so much, that's wonderful to hear.

Thank you, Ann. Glad to hear that lovely feedback.

You're welcome. Glad to be of help.

Thank you so much. I'm delighted that you found it so useful.

So glad to hear that. Many thanks!

Thank you.

Very glad to here that you found it helpful. Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks for sharing your memories, lovely to hear.

Thanks for getting in touch.. We have dispensed with music in later videos. It seems that the sound levels will alter on viewers equipment making what should be background becomes very audible. We made the video in a way that we hoped would be instructive visually so it should be possible to mute this and re-watch if doing a project. Thanks again for your reply.

That's so good to hear. Lampshades do often become treasured heirlooms. They are well worth the love and attention of recovering. Thanks for letting me know.

Thank you!

Dare I say you will get more benefit by knowing where the pitfalls are... Best of luck!!

There is a company called Dannells that supply all equipment for lampshade making. and they should have a shape like this. This was a new shade but generally I use shades I find in thrift stores that need new covers. www.dannells.com/lampshade-frames---soft--pleated-shades-182-c.asp

Etsy has some lovely stuff but my customers were usually in the position that the frame they had was a perfect fit or it was of special personal value so upcycling their frames was important to them and well worth the time and effort.

google translate: "Very nice what you are doing bravo' Many thanks for your comment!

Hi Ruth, if the bell shape is widest at the bottom ring you should be able to get the cover taut with a bit of practice using the method here but it's vital you cut the pieces on the bias. If the bell tapers in you will need to use a method where each panel is sewn on to the frame. If it a large bell shape it may be better to use this panel method especially if the bottom is a 'scallop.' th-cam.com/video/6Vu0QUbawH8/w-d-xo.html gives the idea of this method (althought, be warned it is NOT a 'how-to') I hope this helps, it's difficult to give a definite answer without seeing the piece.

You're very welcome. I'm glad it is of some help.

Many thanks, Maxine. Really appreciate you letting me know!

Hello Karla, you asked: What is the name of the white ribbon that covers the structure? This is a cotton tape used in sewing projects - an example like this one on ebay. It is the 1/2inch wide size. www.ebay.ie/itm/292187427354?hash=item4407ba521a:g:CgQAAOSw2rFZbmbq&var=591120706529

Hello. Thanks so much for your lovely reply. Upholstery is a bit outside my area but I do hope to do a more detailed tutorial on a pleated lampshade as I've just found a frame in the thrift shop. After that I'm planning to do tutorials on Colour and how to choose Colour in your interior projects.

thanks for your reply !!

You're very welcome Agnes!

Thanks for you questions! I would always recommend trying a sample 'toile' or pattern if you need to check out how something 'cuts' but I do think the two separate pieces give a more EVEN stretch in the lining. I would think that using one piece would result in having one side of your lining being much tighter than the other which can be hard to even out. Also the curve that I make to the side seams would not work well with only one seam. If you are using some kind of a knitted fabric to line the shade the method would be different. I've not used knitted fabric but it MAY be possible to have only one seam. I'm just starting a new soft-pleated shade and will go into more detail on the trimming of the pattern to make it fit inside as a lining so will add a link to this reply when it's done. Essentially you need to reduce only the section mid-way between the top and bottom rings. Mark the side seam of main pattern at the approximate midway down from the top ring. Mark in about a centimetre from the stitching line with a dot. Draw a nice curve from the dot towards the top ring and also towards the bottom ring. Add back a seam allowange. You will need to check to see if it fits on a toile because all shades are different.

Thank you for the kind compliment.

The shot at the end was with a 'domestic' light bulb to show the Lamp in normal use so it does look quite different to the rest. Thanks for noticing.

Thanks so much for your kind comment. The voice-over is by my business partner Jim Clarken who has recently started a blog which Includes recordings of him reading his work. If you want to hear that voice try jimclarken.ie/wp/ for links to Spotify.

You're very welcome!!

So glad to hear about your project and that the video is a help to you.

That's very kind of you to say so, Ann-Louise. Thank you!

Because this type of shade needs the material cut along the bias, I would always make up the pattern (toile) including all seam allowances, first. As you can see in the video - the pattern will have a 'grain-line'. Carefully arrange your pattern on a full width piece of fabric you, hopefully, already have in the studio. Make sure it's placed on the bias. Mark around the pattern with pins so you can move it to mark the second side of your shade. If you have more than 2 pieces for your shade you can do this process again until all pieces are allotted a space. Then, just measure down the selvedge to see how much to buy. It's important to take note of the width of this trial piece of fabric so you can adjust for any variations in the piece you are going to buy.