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Either program another remote and stick it to the wall or hardwire a button to the SBC terminals on the board.

Did you replace the wires too ?

Just from behind the sensors, not all the way to the unit

It will close if I manually hold the door closer but when i try my remote it doesn’t close at all.

Either cut the sensors out and connect direct to the opener or replace the wire. If you connect direct it will pretty much tell you if the wire is bad or if the board is bad. Always unplug the unit when connecting or disconnecting the sensors.

Great, Thank you!

I believe you can connect multiple device with one gateway as long as they are within range. We never got into the MyQ much as our commercial customers never had a use for it so I don't have a whole lot of experience. Liftmaster tech support would be a better resource for MyQ questions.

I'm not familiar with crosslink.

It/they would need to be programmed. Every HomeLink is a little different so I would recommend following the program instructions from the vehicle owners manual. As far as the door operator side, I suggest the same if you are not familiar with the procedure. Manuals are available online if you do not have one. Good Luck!

No Problem, Thank you for watching !

You are Welcome and Thank you!

I assume you mean how to make the motor wiring connections. If so, there is a wiring diagram on the inside of the electrical enclosure cover, it would be best to follow that for whatever model you have.

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471yes sir i checked the wiring but motor is not working

Kind of what led to the making of this video. Thanks for watching and the feedback !!

Get it closed and unplug the power cord. That’s the only way to ensure it won’t open on its own. If you know it’s a remote causing it to open and close you can turn on the Lock feature assuming your unit is equipped (press and hold the “lock” button for a couple seconds to turn on or off) if it’s not being caused by a remote this will not stop it from happening.

There is (should be) a wiring diagram on the electrical enclosure cover of the operator. That would be the best to go off as I have no idea what model you are working on. Good luck!

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 thanks for replying, it came far from the desert so i have no chance to talk to a technician, the motor is the big one on the thumbnail , the left most one, the one vertically planted, it is AO smith made.

Motor is wired gor 220 volts ,There is a capacitor of 650 microfarad 125VAC, so it should be the starting capacitor, but there is no centrifugal switch, do they use any kind of electronic switches for isolating starting winding after the motor starts.

If its newer that is correct there is no centrifugal switch its all done by the logic board/power board. Sounds like you are putting an old motor on a new unit or new motor on an old unit. I don't modify these units like this so unfortunately I wouldn't be able to help you with this one. @@harishharikumar1543

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 i dont know about their configuration, the guy brought here dont know anything about it, so i am returning it.

Thank you. 877LM is the ideal model if you don’t need a commercial keypad. Otherwise you can use the 877MAX or its replacement the 878MAX. The KPW5 & KPW250 are commercial keypads that are also compatible.

Every diy spring repair video has a tech in the comments telling people their gonna die if they don't call a professional 🙄

If it catches your clothing or anything when unwinding god help you

That's why I always wind'em naked from the waist up...nothing to catch😆@@CheckOne2

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

Not to my knowledge. Generally we don’t get to involved with the internet side of things as that is better suited for the IT guys that do it every day. I would probably say you need a repeater or extender to get the Wi-Fi signal out to the other doors but that would be from the IT side not the operator manufacturer or installer. I think the Wi-Fi antenna on the door operator is built-in to the circuit board, the one you see on the outside of the machine is the radio antenna for the remote(s). Good luck.

If you can’t wiggle the sensors without the led light going off or flickering the sensors aren’t lined up properly and if they aren’t lined up properly the door may reverse at any number of positions. The sensors are likely clipped on to the door track, when your 150-500lb door moves it may vibrate or shake the track which could cause the sensor to go out of alignment. Hence the importance of having the sensors installed and adjusted properly. If your certain everything is as it should be and still have issues it could be a wiring issue, a bad sensor or a bad logic board.

Wow what you said first was happening. I was wiggling the green sensor to fix alignment and I noticed if if I went to far up or down it was still staying a constant green and not flickering or going off. So does this mean I need to play with sending. What do I need to do in this scenario?

Or is that solid green (no matter how it wiggles up or down good) since it means it's receiving the sending?

@@DanD-v1ryou should be able to wiggle either sensor up and down as well as in and out (toward and away from the door opening) to some degree without the green light flickering. This is all covered in the video. I’m happy to provide some advanced trouble shooting but it sounds like you need to watch the video a couple more times to get the basics dialed in first, if your still having trouble it might be time to call a company out. Thanks for watching and good luck.

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 Yea that's what its doing. I am able to wiggle all around and it still stays steady green so I think thats good since its synced with the amber signal. I removed a few leaves from the bottom of the rubber and its working okay now. I will monitor. Fingers crossed. Thanks for your help.

Programming properly will not delete anything assuming the memory isn’t full. Where you run into trouble is when you don’t know what your doing and you do it wrong or do something you shouldn’t have done.

I’m getting a key pad. I plan to open the garage opener up which is the same one in your video. Do I just push the radio/learn button to program? The Directors say yellow button.

@@DanielMcCluskey4life You should always refer to the owners manual for programming instructions. Sounds like you bought a residential keypad. Without model numbers for the keypad and operator I really can’t say for certain especially if your using a universal keypad as there are so many different models and manufactures of universal equipment.

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 it’s the same model operator as in your video. The keypad is the model number u posted about for keypads that works for security 2.0+

I figured it out by videos on TH-cam and programmed it. Worked perfectly. The trick On this model is you have to click the learn button once to get into learn mode and click 2 times to get back out of learn mode after programming is complete.

Thanks for watching!!

Thank you and thanks for watching! Glad you were able to fix it.

Thank you!

Thank you. Well, if the remote opens the door it would be odd that it wouldn’t close it. Assuming all the basics are in fact good I would say you have a bad set of eyes or a bad logic board on the operator. Might be time to get a professional over as they would be able to trouble shoot a bit easier. Or, if you want to order a set of new eyes and hook them up direct to the opener, if it works great, if not you may be stuck with the sensor cost and still have a problem.

Glad it helped!

No problem. Thanks for watching,

Thanks for this. This could very well be my problem too(see comment above). I will check tomorrow. Was the leaf on the bottom of the door where the rubber portion is and traveling up and down with the door?

On the newer Liftmaster sensors there will be a yellow/amber light (always on) and the other a green light (only on when sensors are aligned and unobstructed). If your still having trouble it may be time to have a professional out. Thanks for watching and good luck.

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 when I closed garage door it reserved back. What else reason do you think? Thanks a lot.

Yes, you can just swap the drive sprocket from one side to the other. Technically the “L” & “R” refer to the chain hoist handing not the drive handing. Good luck.

Thanks. Yes, epoxy with aspartic top coat. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. I'm glad it was helpful.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching, I’m glad it was helpful.

@drtrotter21 I am having similar issue? How did you fix the issue? Both sensors showing solid orange and green lights

Yeah, scotch loc connectors or solder and heat shrink. The codes are general, check alignment is a 99% of the time fix and for consumers typically as far as their knowledge will get them but yes, technically it could also mean a compromised wire(s), connection(s) or termination(s). Glad you were able to trouble shoot and repair.

Limits are independent of the logic board so no, you don’t need to re adjust. As for the “stop” if you are referring to a mid stop then yes, you need to reprogram the mid stop.

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 Thank you.