วีดีโอ

The datasheet for the TP4056 has a table at the end named "Rprog Current Setting". It contains the needed resistor value (in kΩ) for different currents. For a single 360 mAh cell I'd go for 4 kΩ, resulting a current of 300 mA at most. It's always better for the cell to be a bit lower than to be too high. 1 A would be too high, you typically don't want to go beyond 1C, so the theoretical current it would take to charge a cell in 1 hour (so for 360 mAh it would be 360 mA). The good thing is: You don't need to solder a very small resistor! If you break the one already on there it doesn't matter, we don't need it, and you can just solder any size resistor to it. You can even use a standard 1/4 W THT resistor. All you need to to is bend the legs in a shape where you can easily solder them. Maybe create small solder blobs on the PCB after removing the original resistor so you can easier solder to them. Though I'll admit: The USB-C TP4056 boards I have really do have unpractically small resistors and therefore solder pads. I guess when they updated it from micro-USB version (as used in the video) they made everything smaller (and cheaper), so the micro-USB ones I've seen are easier to modify. Last but not least: Good on ya for saving those cells from the dump!

@@tinkeranddespair thanks for the good info and the quick answer, ill see how i get on with the small solder pads once they arrive. Cheers!

Good question! Bypassing it would have increased the current flowing through the remaining 5 LED chips so the resistor value would have been to increased to compensate to not fry them. Since at least one, maybe even two LEDs in the same section already showed signs of breaking down (the dark spots visible at 00:07) I didn't trust them too much either. At the same time I wanted to re-use a chip that would otherwise go to the bin, so this was a nice experiment.

@@tinkeranddespair also, I believe the voltage values between the LEDs are very different. But if the goal was to have fun, totally understand.

@@irishn8 I thought so too, couldn't measure the Vfo of the six-LED-chip directly, but when I connect it to a bench power supply and gradually increase the voltage the single chip comes on together with most of the sections (except one, which is always first). But of course you are right that even its different behaviour heating up will make a difference. Fun is my goal in general, and using stuff that would go to waste otherwise, but I guess that's still fun to me. Thanks for your comments, have a nice day!

Haha, you're the second one to mention this! How come? Were those phones so popular in Germany in the 90s?

@@tinkeranddespair I've seen this in antoher comment. ;) No, its your accent. So, are you German? Honestly, I dont know nothing about this phones and right now, Im not even sure how I came here. ^^

Let's just say I know my way around a pretzel. 😉 The algorithm works in mysterious ways, but however you got here, thanks for stopping by, have a great day!

Interesting, never heard of this, will certainly give it a try next time! Thanks for sharing!

Is it the accent, or did my pretzel-eating skills give it away? ;)

@@tinkeranddespair :D Sub +1

Thank you very much, have a great day!

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! 🙂

Hi, you're welcome! If you do this as part of your Bachelor you might already be more skilled than me since I am far from an expert! 😄 Maybe a post in a suitable subreddit might also be a good place, I'd certainly check it out if you point me to it. If you still want to to ask me specifically you can send me a message on reddit.

Just in case you haven't found me yet: My user name there is TinkerAndDespair as well: www.reddit.com/user/TinkerAndDespair/

Indeed! I think I'll keep them for a special project!

Nice, do you remember what they controlled?

@@tinkeranddespair maybe it was the 80's it was while. The buttons controlled the channels no remote control.

Thanks for your comment, you're the second person mentioning this to me, so I probably should have done a better job showing it. At 00:42 it can maybe be seen best that the 'eyelids' come in from the top and the bottom instead of the disk spinning. Maybe a slow motion shot would have helped? Anyway, the company who originally made theses, Schadow I believe, has a lot of patents on mechanical indicators, and some of them do indeed flip around as you mentioned! These ones actually have the two eyelids though.

I did before uploading, wanted to make sure she's okay with me using her image. She laughed and gave her go ahead!

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

Oh no, I poked him in the eye. 😥

Right?! I can't believe I've never seen them before, they're so great! I wish they were used more often these days.

I've put some links to what I believe to be the right ones in the description (both switch and plunger), but best make sure you get the right ones via the exact order code from the data sheet, since there are many variants within the f-series from ck. Also compare sellers, I've seen them cheaper on digikey.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! I'm sure the ants were an unwelcome suprise and that the whole house was more work than anticipated. The upside is: LK can use it to make content, a 'normal' buyer might just have been out of luck.

Thank you for your comment! Knowing I was at least a little help just made my day!

Thanks cowboy! Yee-haw! ;)

Thank you very much! :)

Sure, it could even tell the player to start again. Would have required an SD card and an amplifier for it to work on the ESP, don't think that would have fit the case unfortunately.

Thanks a lot! I am always worried about someone asking this, now it finally happened. 😅 The thing is: I am far from an expert coder, I still use delay() instead of millis() when it's not necessarily needed. I might have to look into a way to share it, but until then I am happy to point you toward helpful resources if you have a specific question. In general I enjoy the writeups of randomnerdtutorials.com.

Thank you very much, glad you liked it!

Thank you!

Thank you! I did the same when I just saw your awesome pirate sock monkey video!

@@tinkeranddespair Thanks so much! I have to get busy and make more videos!

I guess that would be "Restoring a Ruined Bench #longs" 😉

Huh?

What?

The code used was based on the Adafruit HMC5883 Unified (V1.2.1) library which also needs Adafruit Unified Sensor library (V1.1.6). With the GY-271 there is quite some confusion online since it can contain either the "classic" HMC5883 or QMC5883 chip. There are minor differences, so libraries need to be made for the specific chip. Mine has the HMC, but many sellers either mention both or the HMC even though the QMC was used. Check if you can find more about your specific board to find out which library to use. I too had issues with some libraries which should have supported mine, but didn't.

Thanks for the reply and what i saw on the chip is just GY-271 and ive tried several examples with the chip and its still not working@@tinkeranddespair

and the chip has 5 pins, i will be glad if you can help me@@tinkeranddespair

You could check the very small (!) writing on the largest IC on the board, what does it say? L883 would point towards an HMC chip, 5883 towards an QMC. Of course this is not very reliable since a manufacturer can engrave what ever they want, especially on counterfit parts, but it might still give a clue, as does the I2C address.

Just stumbled on this website, might be of use to you: www.best-microcontroller-projects.com/hmc5883l.html

I'm just a hobbyist, so no sales, sorry. If you want to build one yourself please always consider the safety of the toy. Have a nice day!

Your comment got flagged as spam, due to the many numbers I guess, so I only got to it, sorry. I assume you turned it around the z-axis? Did you keep it as steady as possible (regarding the z-axis) while turning? You can see me placing it on something non-magnetic to keep it horizontal while turning it around the z-axis. Just asking because when plotted x against y, your circles aren't very even, so you might want to repeat your measurements. Anyway, your data suggests a correction of you x values by -354 and y values by +3543.

@@tinkeranddespair Yes exactly, i redid the measurements with the compass mounted to a level box and now it really was a circle. With those corrections my readings now are correct!!!

That's great! Have fun with your project!

So far I only tried getting it on the cyclists: th-cam.com/video/mYmD_AZreg4/w-d-xo.html 😄 But it actually exists! It's called "glass bead road surface marking".

or on bikes

Hi, with the GY-271 there is quite some confusion online since it can contain either the "classic" HMC5883 or QMC5883 chip. They behave the same, but are addressed differently, so libraries need to be made for the specific chip. Mine has the HMC, but I still had issues with some libraries which should support it, so I reverted to Adafruit's HMC5883 Unified (V1.2.1) which also needs Adafruit Unified Sensor library (V1.1.6). The latter is kind of bloated I guess, but it works great!

@@tinkeranddespair thanks bro!!!

Thank you so much! I did! Wanted to make sure it´s ok for me to use her images. 🙂