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What is your vehicle's year, make, and model? Ford is also known for having the tilt be hidden by usually pressing down on the turn signal.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam it’s a 1997 Ford F150. Base model. No tilt, no cruise control. Super basic.

@@dromendoza When I made this video I used a lot of logic from Ford Rangers so this might be applicable: th-cam.com/video/-yPj6RGPYOc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FkIqFW1z5Sn9vgd7&t=582

I’m at a loss help lol

Doesn’t go out far enough for me.

@@BigjamesKY if you don’t mind me asking, how did you end up going about that? I cannot grind mine enough to get it in, probably going to have to pull the shaft.

3/4 inch diameter (at 12:24 in the video it briefly flashes on the top of the video). I will note this in the description to make it easier for anyone else in the future.

Do you keep a lot of keys on your keychain?

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam no but I left this van out without the doghouse on for like 3 years - I think the corrosion worked it’s way into the column!!

In my case I went to turn it off and nothing happened. The van just kept running. At the very start of the video it shows a tan colored box with wires coming out of it (black base) and a metal colored pin sticking out the side. That is pretty easy to find and is held in by two hex screws. That metal pin connects to the actuator rod and you can try cranking the vehicle by moving it over to the side (pliers help but aren't needed). If it cranks from there then the issue is likely the actuator rod broke. I was able to drive for, I think, a few weeks by just unlocking the steering column with the key and manually cranking that box.

Just to note, taking that box out and cranking the engine does not require disconnecting the battery. The repair itself does require the battery to be disconnected.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam I see. Would you think it's my actuator rod with what I'm experiencing? My key made a break sound when i went to turn it on and it stayed at the 3rd stage of ignition but won't turn off or turn on.

@@UnoriginalUserNameV2 so you can't get the key out of the 3rd stage or can't turn the key out of the 3rd stage?

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam No i can get the key out but after i turn it back down to the off position, Anything in between The key is inside, Car doesn't feel like it's going through the stage clicks.

One of my regrets is not doing a reverse video as it isn't as straight forward as I thought back then. I assume you did put the switch back in that goes under the dash (great for manually starting and stopping the vehicle when actuator rod is broken). If you did, or didn't, can you crank the vehicle from it? Otherwise, as noted in some of the pinned comments, getting the key cylinder housing put back exactly as it was before you took out it is really important and could also cause issues with cranking. Let me know if it starts by the switch though and also if the steering wheel unlocks via the key.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam I'm just about to leave for work, but i will try that first thing in the morning. Ill message back with what I find out. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly!

There is a comment below about using zip ties to do it which is what I would recommend. In my case I never put it back as I really didn't need to adjust the tilt and honestly I didn't think of zip ties.

It’s be cool to know which direction to take, ya know? Key cylinder and gets keys programmed or go ahead and get a steering wheel puller and go for the actuator rod

So when you did the ignition switch (and before putting it back in) did you try to start it from the ignition switch? Also, do you have a lot of keys on your key chain?

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam I did not! What’s the process for that? Just take switch out and engage it forward on its own? Key in the ignition and everything? And yessir I do actually have a lot of keys

@@LarryGoggins000 Just as you described, take it out and and engage it forward on it's own. If that works then it really suggest it could be the actuator rod. The more keys you have the more likely you can shorten the lifespan of the key cylinder. Which also could be causing an issue with the chip in the key being detected. I would start by removing the ignition key from the key chain and trying to start the vehicle. After that likely doesn't work then try the ignition switch with the key in the ignition. Good luck!

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam thank you captain!!!!

Did you file it down? The way I did it in this video doesn't show the work that goes into making it fit. Or are you having another issue? Also, did you get the entire broken part out?

When I made this I didn't have the money to afford a mechanic to do the repair. Plus, for how cheap that part was, I really didn't want to spend the money getting that repair done. I still want to eventually remake the video as I have better camera equipment now and I would rather make it more concise, better language, include feedback from comments, and show the process of putting everything back together.

I apologize for the slow response as I really don't know if there is but as someone did the repair on a 96 Taurus there is a chance that, if the part is similar, you could get to it and do the repair. Obviously, safety first, make sure to know how to properly remove the air bag for your given vehicle. The closest I could find was this video: th-cam.com/video/pXdEO7qhZp8/w-d-xo.html Which, at the end of this video you can see the actuator rod (similar to the one I replaced in my video) hanging out. As his repair is different, you might not need to remove the steering column, but that might be easier.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam thank you so much for your response! I'll check that video out, and may give it a go at it.

@@frankmondragon9633 As it isn't specific to that part make sure to take photos (and or video) to make it easier to remember where things go. Plus the comments on the page about making it easier to put the ignition assembly back correctly can save a lot of headaches later on.

I think I either used Sand Paper or a cheap metal file from Harbor Freights. Took way longer than I would have liked. Today I would probably use a Dremel with a sand paper bit, or a drill with a sand paper bit, and put the rod into a vice.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam ok it in but i cant get the fack back on

I don't know if this helps (I really didn't like that step and wish I would have done more video footage on it) but did you see my note at the very end of the video: th-cam.com/video/Ww0VbPEhH-k/w-d-xo.html

The downside of having to choose free music and feeling like the knight at the end of Last Crusade is telling me I chose poorly. If I get the chance in the future I will replace the music with something a little more mellow and make it quieter.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam i enjoyed these classics just like your video, uncut and in full, no jump cuts, no filters no glame or electric spice, just natural beautiful music.

I removed the white glass and caught the wasp in a cup.

I removed glass shade of wasp in cup

When I did I didn't have to mess with that green plastic piece. If it looks out it may have popped out a bit (as compared to @4:37 in the video which is where it should be) make sure that it didn't rotate (There is a green tab at the top). If it didn't rotate than you shouldn't have to worry about it unless the lock cylinder isn't going in all the way.

@@CaptainAmericaTH-cam Ok now my issue is putting the little gear wheel back in and its giving me the most trouble. For some reason it's not lining up correctly and when I try to put the cylinder back in it either doesnt want to release my key or not doing a full turn allowing me to put the key in aux position, take out the key or turn forward like I'm going to turn on the car. I need help NOW!

@@terrenceforbes5935 I apologize as I have meant to highlight a few more comments including ones that talk about the issue you are having right now. When I did the repair I missed out on a few things that would have made the repair easier and thus they are not in the video. One of which was to mark both the gear and the actuator rod (the broken one) with a permanent marker to show which tooth you are supposed to line up in the on position. Then mark the new one in the same spot to make realigning the teeth easier. Another commenter, Flo, posted this which is more inline with where you are at: Flo 4 years ago +Captain America, thank you for the response. I did figure it out, after all. especially the gear setting right was difficult. But I figured out that on the bottom of the searing column there is a little mark on the metal part, that indicates where the whole of the actuator is supposed to be when putting the ignition cylinder in. since there is only one way to insert the cylinder the gear can be se to that position. took me a second to step back and think about it a little more. also important is, that the gear retainer (the little plate) needs to be put in that it can be rotated into position counterclockwise. I was trying to make it work the other way first.

Do you happen to have the video times? Then we can work on getting the answers you need plus with others having just completed this recently there are fresher memories we can turn to just in case. On the teeth I don't remember having to do anything fancy as it was the alignment of the key ignition cylinder as it came out that has that alignment. Once the new actuator rod is in it ends up at the same position the old one was in. I also recommend reading some of the old comments as there are some good tips.

Thanks for the reply. I'm taking a break from it today but I'm in the middle of doing this. The retaining ring just needs to be unseated from its groove using a screwdriver and then slides up the taper of the shaft and comes off. That wasn't in the video so I don't have a time for that. 2. the time is 8:41 for what you called the lock jaws. I found they (in my case there is just one) are indeed under spring tension. I used a screwdriver to move mine down so there was no snap. I've got mine apart now and have the new actuator so I'm at the reassembly point. I found a vid where a Mustang owner removes the entire column and replaces both actuators. Not sure why he replaced the rear actuator but if anyone ever needs to do that, that vid is also helpful. He gets to the bearing retaining ring here: th-cam.com/video/vBZvKFjVTas/w-d-xo.htmlm11s

I have definitely thought about finding someone local with a need for this repair and remaking the video. When I made this there was nothing else on TH-cam on the subject and it was based on a few different things including something similar (but described in text) on a Ford Ranger. I spent at least 24 hours over 3 days figuring everything out (including having to go get things). After all this time and feedback I definitely wouldn't have skipped over as much as I apparently did (including the reassembly). The filing part alone would have helped others to show exactly how far I had to file to get the rod back in. Glad you got passed it and thanks for the link!

I would also make it in 4k and use multiple cameras to provide multiple angles without the jerkiness there is in spots (or the speed at which it leaves a segment).

Hope I didn't give the wrong impression because your video was the only helpful thing I found on youtube or searching through forums. I'm beginning to wonder now if I didn't imagine that other snap ring. I took another look at the vid I linked to and that wasn't a snap ring, it was that "tolerance ring." I hope there wasn't another snap ring because I couldn't find it tonight when I went out to install the actuator. I haven't had much sleep the last couple days. I'm doing this job on my 96 F150. I've repaired so many things on this truck that I could have made a few movie length vids if I'd been filming the work ;)

The engine rotates just enough to give a little more access to the back area. The video is based on the manual for the vehicle (don't remember off the top of my head if it is Haynes or Chilton). Removing the fans gives more leeway but wasn't endorsed by the guide as more access usually means lowering the engine and not rotating. That being said I am not a mechanic so if you had no issues doing just that post a video and drop a link here.

RVP I was concerned about that when I did it the first time. If you stop ratcheting the moment it makes contact there shouldn't be any issues. The downside is that the rotation doesn't give you that much more access but it is the easiest of the potential ways to access hard to reach areas.

Melany A I had to file it a decent amount but not too much. I didn't use any power tools so it was a decent amount of work. Once I got it on I never had another issue with it despite the filing. In the video the actuator rod looks flimsy on there but once everything is reassembled there was no issues. Can you give me a link to a photo of your filing work?

Steve O definitely sound advice

+52 55 3000 0900, +52 55 5814 1414, +52 55 9140 9700 Pruebe estos concesionarios de Ford o concesionarios de Google Ford cerca de su ubicación.

Captain America gracias por su apoyo

Do you have a video time that has the wire featured then I can look up what the wire is called/for as otherwise I am not sure which one you mean.

I think he means the one for the chime that reminds you the key is in the ignition

alex hatcher I never did replace mine and never notice any issues.

It just drops to the lowest setting. i used 5 zip ties and compressed the spring. it slid right in and then i snipped the zipties. This video was extremely helpful.

Hi Aaron, the length of the PVC pipe is really based on the length of your extender. Underneath the PVC pipe is the extender and all I am doing is tightening the steering wheel retaining bolt (you can use the old one for this step) with a washer between the ratchet wrench and the PVC pipe with the extender able to go through the center hole (so that as the retaining bolt is tightened (only needs to be partial tightened) the PVC is pushing the snap ring against the spring until it is back to the original position as it was at 6:54 in the video right after removing the turn cam ). Thus the length of the PVC pipe must be cut so that it supports that compression (just enough so that you can start to tighten the retaining bolt but not much more as you want it to push on the snap ring soon after you start to tighting the retaining bolt). After you get the spring compressed you can remove the retaining bolt. Let me know if this answers your question or if I need to clarify anything. I would go with your longest extension available so that you have a decent amount of pipe to cut on.

Thanks that was very helpful. And now I am trying to get the tilt wheel spring with not much luck. Any suggestions?

I sadly did not get that back on but to quote one of the comments below: noothernameisavail 3 years ago Forgot to mention that the tilt spring can be compressed quite nicely with zip ties! Have to evenly tighten them as you go or they will slide to one side. Had five zip ties before I got it compressed evenly and tight enough to easily go in place. Cut the ties and pull them out... Another note: noothernameisavail also noted that using the PVC pipe can be hammered (I would recommend a soft mallet) instead of the bolt on strategy I used. Eventually I hope to make a new version of this in 4k that takes in the advice and experience of all the comments to ensure a more clear path to performing the repair.

This video saved me! Thank you so much. Even with a slightly different van I was able to work through it an come out successful. Thank you for making this awesome tutorial

If your actuator rod breaks you likely won't be able to turn off (cut the car off) when on or (if it wasn't on) be able to turn it on. The ignition switch I talked about is a small off-white box held in by two torx screws and if you pull that out (like it is in the video) you can manually turn the vehicle off and on without having to disconnect the battery (I got by for over a month with the rod broken that way before I finally got to the solution the video shows). You do still have to have the key in the ignition turned to on to unlock the steering wheel but otherwise with that box out you start and turn the vehicle off (or put in aux mode) with that box only. Once the actuator rod is replaced you just replace that box and the key will work as it did before (all the rod does is move the metal pin sticking out of the switch to the location determined by the key). If I didn't answer your question let me know :)

tom hockin Here is a link to the manual which on page 7 says oil: manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/67000-67999/67090.PDF

Glad it helped and I apologize for the delayed response, my phone wasn't able to see your message. Strangely enough that actually could be the issue and in terms of affordability that is definitely the best place to start. I wouldn't torque them passed 6-8 lb./ft. and after loosing (possibly with the front end jacked up) see if the steering is easier with the bolt loosened (with the battery still disconnected). As this has already been 2 days hopefully you already tried loosening it?

Sorry that I responded to your newer comment and didn't see this one. Are you still having this issue?

gene myers - Not sure how I didn't see this but for anyone else with this question the answer is yes as I based part of the repair on a guide for a 1996 Ford Ranger. There could be minor differences but nothing major.

Diana Penland just feel for it. get on top and feel for it. that's what I did. it'll take some time but it'll work. if you do have a second person use a pry bar