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hey man, i dont. i just used some s10 ls swap shorty headers because they fit without any adjustment...search on ebay "Stainless Headers For 1982-2004 Chevrolet S10 Blazer LS1 Sonoma Engine Swap"

HK22-GMG1

1983 El Camino - 2nd owner since 2002 Rear • Auburn Limited Slip • 3:42 (originally 2:41) • Drum to disc conversion Trans (originally THM 350) • 4l660e • TCI wiring and controller • TCI speed sensor Engine (originally stock SBC 305 Rochester Q-jet) • 07/08 LH6 (5.3, 4th gen) D.O.D. deleted • Stock bottom end (flat top pistons) • Z06 Cam LS6 o .550'' Int. / .550'' Exh o 204° Int / 218° Exh o 117.5° LSA • Z06 springs/retainers • Comp Cams trunnion upgrade • Comp Cams adjustable double roller timing chain kit • Holley oil pan • Holley Dual Plane intake • MSD 6014 LS box • Brawler 650 CFM, mechanical secondary’s Suspension • QA1 Sway bar, upper and lower control arms, tie rods • QA1 Single adjustable coil overs • CPP 14:1 ratio steering gear box Other • Electric fan • External trans cooler • SS brake lines • True dual exhaust • Sanden A/C compressor, Kwik performance LS bracket kit • 15” S10 wheels

happy to help Dave!

good advice, ill try it when i have replace this one for the 4l60e, thanks

thanks for the feedback, good luck with yours!

initially that was my thought as well. the casting number and block say it's a lh6/5.3 tho - 12571048

Lh6 is the aluminum gen4 5.3. I swore it looked like a iron block lol

Hi Brian, you just soak them in motor oil of your choosing overnight, cam shaft has assembly lube on it

thanks! good luck with it!

yes it did, but from my side it didn't make a big enough difference to change any of the drive shaft length or anything like that

@@av8bud Thanks. I think its because my car may be on jack stands and with the rear wheels hanging low it makes the drive shaft angle look higher on the transmission side

Hi Mike, the fit of the eBay headers is pretty good, imo, from what I've seen of other headers they take a lot of massaging to fit. With these you just install and go. Downside is they changing color with the repeated heat cycles. Not sure if that's normal for headers or if that's because these are made in China, as I thought they were advertised as stainless steel. Either way, I'd definitely recommend wrapping them before you install. The heat soak from them has been a big adjustment for me, and its caused issues with vapor lock in the summer. So much so that I had to put a spacer between the carb and intake. my 2 cents. Yes, I have a regulator. My understanding is you want to always have one to protect the system, just in case there's an issue. Last I checked mine was set to 6 psi. haven't touched it since, thanks for the questions,

@@av8bud thanks bro I will wrap them before install . What version msd wires you bought ?

Mike, I just used the msd 8mm cut to fit wires. the boots on the spark plug side fit a lot better then the stock ones with those headers.

It’s an 07 Tahoe motor so I used the stock 58 tooth reluctor sensor. The msd box reads both-duralast su9538

Thanks a lot for the feedback, happy to help!

it just felt loose, like it wasn't grabbing till the lever was at the very top. plus, it was apparently a beach cruiser in its previous life and came with a brand-new adjuster in the console, so decided to replace it.

thanks! 264hp/301tq @ the wheels...th-cam.com/video/uGuDK6nHjMc/w-d-xo.html

thanks, some guy was selling on FB marketplace

so far so good on this one but this is the newer 6014 model

@@av8bud cool i won ting to put ls in my k2500

LH6

for ARP - 3 stages on the 11mm: 25ftlb, 50ftlb, 75ftlb. for the 8mm - 25ftlb arpinstructions.com/instructions/134-3610.pdf

hey Derryck, yea this is the QA1 stage 2 g-body handling kit. Part #: HK22-gmg1 was around 4500$ all the individual part numbers are in the kit on their site... www.qa1.net/automotive/suspension/full-vehicle-kits-systems/handling-suspension-kits

@@av8bud ok Thanks

hi, no, right now its just the stock carb fuel tank. I will probably change tanks when/if i decide to go fuel injection. unfortunately i think most of the other gbody tanks are different and incompatible with the el camino. not really a stalling issue when i turn more of a heat soak issue causing vapor lock when the car sits at a stop light too long in the summer.

@@av8bud I was wondering what cfm carb you used and did you re size the jet’s or it worked just fine ? Thanks

@@ibrahim-chevelleMalibuman this is a brawler 650 (holley)...i used the stock jets for a while and then when i had it dynod they put smaller jets in as it was running too rich from the factory. i think 72 to 64, dont quote me on that tho...after using it for a while, i think it could probably use a bigger carb tho, seems most folks use a 750.

hey, i actually do have AC now, so I've had 2 belts. This is the one i have in my glove box not sure if its for w/ or w/out, but probably a good starting place - 6pk2821 (061110)

@@av8bud Thank you! I put my swap on hold but will make a note of the belt you gave me. Keep up the good work!

Im thinking of the muscle car pan

@@jbkuztoms5329 302-1 Holley LS swap pan 1st gen

@@av8bud ok thank you

Semper P brother,

@@av8bud what (really) surprises me is that after nearly 20 years, no one has developed a roots style blower manifold (Weiand hopefully) for the LS that will facilitate carburation. Would LOVE to integrate that into my next project

@@michaelwittke8336 i think the blower shop just released a kit for LSs, carbed i believe as well: theblowershop.com/tbs-roots-style-superchargers/the-blower-shop-chevy-ls1-ls3-manifold-and-drive-kits/

@@av8bud was hoping for a manifold that would work with one of the Weiand kits (142/144) Noticed some bottom halves around the interweb, I guy might just have to take a 3/4 aluminum plate and fab up one

agreed, unfortunately this was all i could get my hands on...need to invest in a good set lol...yes, they are, i found out the hard way by overtightening and snapping one of them. they are 106inlbs. I'd advise to be careful with the swap pan, the newer one is shallower and didn't fit my block. I have a gen 4 block which could be the reason, so be careful. good luck and thanks for watching,

hey, yea mine is angled too. what are you having an issue with? the issue i ran into was it was rubbing the bottom of the floor pan, so i had to really hit it hard to get it into place as you see in the video. I probably could have also pryed the floor pan up a little to get it moving but i didnt want to punch through. If thats the issue, bolt one side into place and then bang hard on the other side like i did.

I had to remove pass side heat shield

oh that might be a tough one...so you have a gen 3 block? where's your crank sensor and reluctor wheel tooth count? www.michiganmotorsports.com/single-bolt-timing-cam-gear-sprocket-replaces-ls3-12591689-1-bolt-58-tooth-reluctor-wheel/

thanks Ed, dyno day - th-cam.com/video/uGuDK6nHjMc/w-d-xo.html

Hey Bob, i pulled this out of a 98-03ish tahoe from the local junk yard and it fit ok for me. My understanding is that they have 2 different size pulleys the 5" and 6" pulley, unfortunately i dont have any part numbers for those

thanks, i just used that large socket and a breaker bar to bar the engine over, using the crank bolt. with the heads off everything rotates freely.

@@av8bud I have no idea what you're saying.

happy to help Joe!

hey, coil overs are a good place to start...its like night and day, car feels like anything you'd buy new off a lot today...

it certainly helps yes... i had it on jack stands under the frame rails, and had to adjust my large jack under the differential periodically to increase and reduce load on the suspension to loosen and tighten most of the bolts...id suggest playing around with it to see how it moves around for you.

hi Debbie, that's the temp switch going to the relay to turn on the electric fan.

yea i did all the wrapping myself, i had a shop add a spacer recently which seemed to help some. Ultimately yea ill probably go with a return setup. i may move the pump to the tank but havent decided...i think the best/easiest solution would be to not use headers or wrap them to reduce a lot of the heat soak

agreed, after this id probably stay with manifolds and/or try wrapping them next time...