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She needs her pookie

What PSI do you typically set the compressor to when glazing with the airbrush?

Do these molotow paints not need primer?

Amazing work! Quick question! Did you not prime the masks with anything?

Got some great ideas from this for the Fire Prism I just recieved, thank you. Doing my prisms a LOT different, keeping them clear, candy red, light coat of Alclad chrome (or copper?), and using SMD LED inside....because that's what struck me when I looked at the models. lol Another useful tool for taking care of those sharp/weird edges is a glass file usually used for nail salons. Remove very little material and polish behind them. And they are dirt cheap.

love these guys, i want to get some brighter colors in there as well, some orange, pinkish, violet and so on

I feel the exhaust pipes need heat damage aswell

I’m just finishing up my figure, it’s really cool to see how much similar and different our approaches were to painting him, those greenish/ yellowish browns really make a huge impact with gold. I like the way you did his face, i started with a sickly flesh tone then did a very dilute contrast purple then dry brushed with the flesh tone again then i used that same contrast to pick up the scars on his head.

Comment for the algorithm! Seriously, great job. I am getting into Full Spectrum Dominance at 6mm with my dad, and I've never done anything that small. Luckily, the scale model and model train enthusiasts have plenty of techniques to share for me online!

Love that you described the colors and didn’t name them. Really makes following along much more relaxing. Thanks for the great vid!

11:41 this is honestly how I highlight horde armies with a lot of different textures just on a much smaller scale. The main one being I have a horde army of 3d printed Krieg and capes are an absolute bitch to highlight and layer up most of the time bit I do preshading on the volumes with imprimatura which is essentially slap chop, then spray over contrast or xpress paint, then I highlight with oil paints on all the raised edges of the capes and use a dry brush to blend out the transitions and let me tell you its ridiculously quick and smooth. 0 effort and like 10 minutes per cape and it looks soooo good.

Bro your husband can sculpt mini’s? If you ever don’t want him I am more than available. Seriously though glad to see more representation in the warhammer community I think we honestly really need it. Also the finished model is unfathomably sick

That perforated hole trick is awesome

For newbies to painting here is a quick overview. Vallejo is always a good bet either game color or model color. It has the widest paint range of any brand but can be hard to get in the US. Normal to creamy consistency, can be thinned easily, consistent across the range in terms of paint behavior, mildly matt finish, can be used for drybrushing well, and good but no exceptional coverage. The hobby standard in essence. Warpaints Fanatic is probably my go to recommendation for beginner painters. It has a wide range of colors is and a double triad system which makes it really easy to choose a good shadow and highlight color. Very creamy consistency great for more complex techniques like wet blending, covers very well, thins very well, behaves very consistently, and can be used for dry brushing to great success. The only dig is that while they have a lot of colors its not as big as the vallejo range and they sacrifice a bit of saturation for their great coverage. Make sure you do not buy the og warpaints make sure its the fanatic range because personally I’d rather castrate myself with a rusty spoon then use og warpaints ProAcryl from monument hobbies is my personal favorite but it has some caveats. The paint is much more liquidy and less creamy, has a longer drying time, loves to soak up water on the wet pallet, and can be weird to dry brush with because of its liquidy nature and extreme mattness. ProAcryl also has the smallest range of the ones mentioned. All that being said ProaAcryl has by far the most coverage and saturation of any of the paints on this list its actually unbelievable. Normally paints sacrifice coverage for saturation or vice versa but not for ProAcryl. They cover the best on this list in one or two coats and have unbelievably rich saturation especially in colors that are hard to make deeply saturated. When you think of the color red its bold pyrrole red, when you think of purple its proacryl vv royal purple. You want a super saturated dark jade or a mind blowingly bright yellow, pro acryl is the paint range. Ak third gen is also pretty great. Super wide range of paints like vallejo but with a bit more saturation, a bit more liquidy, and a longer working time. Unfortunately they go throw an airbrush like an absolute bitch so if you plan on airbrushing these might be a pass. Personally I think a good alternative to ak 3rd gen is using warpaints fanatic for basecoating and general work and moving to proacryl when you need super saturated colors. Two Thin Coats is a great great option if you like GW citadel paints. They behave similarly and have the borderline satin sheen that gw paints have. Two thin coats dont have a huge range of colors but the ones they do have are right on the money in terms of classic fantasy colors.

Petrol Blues are some of my favorite, but I haven't seen a good one from any of the popular acrylic brands. Would you mind sharing which one you used for your basecoat? Lovely work by the way!

Thank you SO MUCH for posting this. I have wanted a white panel line and only saw black, and mine weren't coming out right with watered down

they look great, they really do but that is a lot of gold paint to get the gold right...

Iso alcohol can be used for cleaning brushes and csn also be used with milliput to make a liquid milliput to brush into small gaps for a filler that can be sanded when dry. It can also be used to strip models which may help with purchasing used models and repainting with your own artistic flare :)

Milliput and iso alcohol will make a liquid milliput that can be brushed into gaps then when dry sanded back gently if needed

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! This content is so useful!

Love this series of painting technics for underpainting! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Absolutely love this! More more more please!

Ove this sort of content. I really want to understand how different uncoat / primer colours impact the top coats and how best to sect the primer colours for best effect and the theory behind it. Ie some artists may recommend basecoating in purple if painting green and sketching in pinks and yellows are lighter tones to give a highlight to the purple shade as purple is the opportise to green (i guess). Then paining green over this base supposedly gives a colour that has some lighter and darker tones (if applied translucent I guess) to give some guide on the areas for shading. Is this right or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I kno its a bit late so you prolly wont see this but what are alternatives to Molotow Turquoise as the area I live does not have it.

Hi, looks great. What thinning ratio did you use for the green ink?

You can use those same pipe cleaners to make Italian Cypress trees. Just make sure the pipe cleaner fur points upwards. If you massage PVA glue into them you can also get more sparse trees.

I'm giving the slap metal technique a go right now

You and marco sold me on using this over unvarnished Acryllic! Awesome! So much stuff out there says its impossible... sounds like they just didn't let it dry enough?

Absolutely friggin FIRE. Great work

Tried this. Total mess unfortunately. Im using black oil paint on a teal tank. The oil and white spirit mix goes into the grooves ok, but when i try to clean it up with a brush it comes out again. Its left smudgy stained grey black bits on my teal paint

I had the idea for a “Ravers of Slaanesh” Warhammer army with a psychedelic paint scheme. This was IMMEASURABLY helpful as a basis for the color scheme and overall aesthetic I want for the army as a whole. Thank you! Beautiful work! 🤩❤️👍

Best big knight model I've ever seen I think. What were the specific Scale75 metallics you drybrushed?

Yes, start talking about that. Been trying to wrap my head around why Purple and Yellow aren't complementary.

This would be great for Battletech Alpha Strike

Very cool

I'm currently building this finicky little team and will definitely be trying out this style. Really lovely work. Hope to see your take on more blood bowl teams. Thank you for taking the time to post.

Man! This is a great education in painting and color theory. Thank you for this. I'd like to ask, which Liquitex Acrylic Gouache colors would you use for your cyan, magenta and yellows if you were trying to recommend a core set of colors for someone to start using?

Love these so much! I don't play 40K, but your painting videos are really run to watch.

What's your experience been with priming using the molotow paints via airbrush? I tried them once after hearing good things, but didn't have great results, and they seemed to not stay on the mini too well. Probably user error, as it was my first time with an airbrush and it was just an airbrush that came free with the compressor, but yeah, curious to hear the thoughts of someone with a bit more experience!

Great introduction. I hope you made all the next parts.

Nice video with great narration!

What grit sanding stick do you use?

Great video ! Can’t wait for the rest of the series.

Molotov refills for the win. Too bad they are bad with the brush, at least some of them. Molotov black goes smoothly with brush.

That is SO MUCH WORK and it looks dull as fuck. That gold is just weark and has no reflection whatsoever.

I d love a video on how to prep 3d printed figurines. I hate this step of the hobby and often realise there are marcs on minis after i m done with the paint job 😢