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@@mikeconnelly7032 i learned the same lesson a long time ago. Thought my stuff ran pretty good....turns out it was at 17:1 AFR Gained 28HP and a lot of driveability just put fuel to it and getting to 13:1

@@codysmithmotorsports736 I’m on vacation next week, hoping to get my autocrosser on the road this week. 🙏🤞🏻

@@1tonystunts good to hear it!

@@kornkultrc it's definitely one of the most fun events I do

@@mikeconnelly7032 it was a struggle there for a while

@@codysmithmotorsports736 can you rebuild your primary transmission a little stronger? Or was it just tired?

@@mikeconnelly7032 I'm sure it was just tired... been abusing it for over 5 years

@@mikeconnelly7032 could throw some G-force gear set in it but those are $$

@@1tonystunts That's the plan

@@1tonystunts I didn't even know an resistor was an option. But if this is better than I'm glad I didn't waste my time

Which is why you check and use the length pushrod that gets you the best pattern. Common pushrods come in .050 length increments so unless you're making a very big change to the deck height/gaskets/head without changing any other parts, it's not going to change the length needed.

I didn’t comment to argue with anyone or act like a hit shot but how many people build an engine the right way and change nothing.i’ve got to resist saying anything on here but I source my info from some fairly good knowledge,Ralph Johnsonson on you/tube about push rods and rocker arms I don’t think I colored outside the lines but in case I did I’ll apologize now ahead (I am sorry you/tubers) for thinking I knew what I was saying but check the info

@@barrykilts4506 yeah, if you're building from scratch all those things come into play. Which is why checking is worthwhile vs throwing in stock stuff. If it's a refresh and some light resurfacing is done then it's not likely to change with any significance. But if something significant changes. Like valve length for example, then it needs to be rechecked.

I get it’s important I never said it wasn’t but but that’s it for me you get the last word and I’m all done

It's just a snap ring holding it in...same as the speedo gear. There's special pliers that make that snap ring easy to remove. Then two small pry-bars, one on each side of the gear (if you even need them) and it comes right off

Yes. They are splayed. It doesn't make much difference between the small offset vs being completely parallel and it just wasn't worth the effort to relocate when the length worked out well for what i was able to fit for the new upper. I would have made them parallel if i'd have been going for a long arm setup and extending into the rear seat area

@@codysmithmotorsports736 makes sense. I have a GM b-body with a similar converging 4 link, and have been researching 3 link options, and this videos are great! I need to dig into the GRM thread as well.

@@MojaveRider223 it's been a great upgrade. Huge improvement in corner exit traction and pushed the handling balance back to where the front was lower. Which is why I've been upgrading the front end again to match

While the shaft means you're not adjusting the rocker up/down you still want the best pattern possible. Ways of adjustment are shims to raise the shaft base, valve length, valve job height, or using lash caps depending on the situation. Pushrod length with the shaft just needs to be where it's within the adjustment range of the rocker adjuster. But changing the heights of the other components to get the pattern right may change the pushrod length needed. Whatever shaft system you're using "should" have been designed for the application and be right. However the valve job height and valve length could quickly throw that off if they are changed. Especially when doing big changes like typically done for performance applications

I plan to keep going. Even after last weekend I have a few more tweaks in mind for more improvement

Anybody local to you with a lathe that can handle 11"+ diameter could do it. It's not anything special as far as machining. Just a cutoff tool to remove the rotor and turn the outside diameter down to clear the vette rotors

Good brakes are always worthwhile.

Belting www.mcmaster.com/product/5753K451

Lacing www.mcmaster.com/product/6118K16

Thanks, I also added the links in the description to make it easier too

So far, very happy

You use the tapper screw to hold the cut while you use the expander. Otherwise it'll just pull out when removing the expander. Removing is pretty straightforward so i skipped that. Just tap the cup and thread in the puller to remove.

IIRC stock was something like 3/8" toe in when turning... just terrible. Definitely a thing that helps improve tire life.

@@codysmithmotorsports736 yup I think so... I spend a lot more time with the 68-72 chevelle frame, but I'm working through some updates for my grand national. GM's idea for what made a customer safer back then was kinda whack.

Didn't use any references other than seeing other 2j swaps in other chassis and thinking "I can make that fit". Now there's someone who's done the swap into a Monte for drifting that you might be able to find some info on

@@codysmithmotorsports736 thanks. I’m souring my 2J now. I’d love to message you about a few things as I go if you don’t mind.

@@warrenguy442 yeah that's fine

@@codysmithmotorsports736 do you have any social media I could hit you up on?

I've been running modified stock hubs for 4 years now doing road course stuff. Never been a problem. 3800+ lbs car on 285 wide 200tw tires. Getting the hub and rotor separate cuts a lot of heat from getting into the hub itself. I would expect that asphalt oval generates way more brake heat, especially in a smaller wheel than my car even does at heavy brake use road courses

Also, I have been interested in going to a billet hub. The Coleman stuff is a no go with the bigger studs for me. Plus I'd have to modify them anyway for the locating ring size to fit my wheels too. I'll build some at some point but there's plenty of other stuff higher on the list

@@codysmithmotorsports736 I found a 12mm stud with the right knurl for the coleman hub, I had the same concern. Looking to adapt some of my old stuff to run on the street. Anyhow, good work here!

Try to listen at 23 seconds and 1:30.... 2:40.... 🙄

​@@hotrodray6802try to listen during the video... he keeps mentioning center...

As a regular driver with coilovers designed for that you won't be needing regular rebuilds. In my case I have race spec coilovers and abuse the hell out of them. So getting them checked is a good idea. I had two that were fine but also had two that had been damaged from other part failures and hadn't realized it.

@@codysmithmotorsports736 awesome thanks.

Ball joint broke at Black River Motorsports Park during an for fun autocross day a few weeks after UMI. Pretty sure I blew the shock out when that happened. Last year I broke a BJ too but it wasn't as violent. Again during an autocross. I'm currently redesigning most of the front end components to improve strength and get some better geometry too

It's an awesome organization. Gridlife will be at Mid Ohio the end of June this year

I haven't had any problems with the radiator hose. It's a pretty thick one and has held up for a few years now. I do run double hose clamps.

www.hanlonmotorsports.com

Not a bad idea at all!

Yes. However this car still gets street driven a lot. Few thousand miles a year and because of that I won't be putting a halo or A pilar bars in. It's not worth the saftey risk on the street. So there's no dash bar to attempt to bolt to. Which is exactly the reason I put tubes inside the fenders. They have plates that use the bulkhead area the fender bolts to just below the windsheild and run up to the front of the frame. Without these or the stock inner fender and core support you can make a 2" droop of the front end just by jacking the car up behind the front wheel...The frame is that bad. I think by running another tube from the fender tubes near the mounting point, to the coil over mount hoops, and accross the engine to the other side should a lot of the same results. Its crossed my mind to cut out some frame and weld in some more substantial material at the weak point too.

I've had solid bushings for 4 years. Just double checked in case something was loose and they were still tight. I've known for a while that the bent section of frame below the windshield forward is absolute trash. If the fenders aren't bolted on and you jack it up just behind the wheel you wind up with a 2" droop at the core support.

This car also has tubes acting as secondary frame rails, 4pt cage plus door and sill bars. I made tubes inside the fenders to go from the mounts at the windshield to the front of the frame too. My plan is to tie the fender tubes to the coilovers hoops and across the engine to each other in one big engine bay brace

Heck man. That's a lot of stiffening. I've done some with my 84 Cutlass but not that much. These frames were never meant for any of this. Roadster shop may be in your future.

@@tonym6854 I have my 82 shell in the driveway. I'm just going to go full tube frame from the start with that one

Car has a 4pt plus door and sill bars. Class rules I run don't allow forward of the firewall and I don't want a halo/a pillars because it gets street driven a lot

Worth it. I was genuinely surprised at the difference

@@codysmithmotorsports736 Hope to see you make some improvements to the cutlass for next season

@@mikeconnelly7032 yeah, should be getting back to the cutlass soon

No problem. It's turning into a pretty fun project

Hanlon Motorsports

Sharpie to mark the valve tip. Then turn the engine through two revolutions to completely cycle the cam

Thanks Cody. My lifters aren't pumped up. Should I install all the rockers and get the oil pump flowing first? Jeep 4.0 stroker project. 9.600 pushrods came with the kit. I still want to verify geometry. Thanks again!@@codysmithmotorsports736

@@tmmyjay it might help. This method is for solid lifters so they don't collapse from spring pressure. Getting yours pumped up might help keep them from leaking down. Otherwise the correct way to do it for hydraulic lifters is with a light spring (checker spring) that has very little pressure. Or you can use a solid lifter in place of the hydraulic just for checking. Only other option is to measure how much the lifter collapses and will need to factor that in as it will make the lifter shorter. For example if you bottom out the lifter and get a pushrod length of 8.000 but the lifter collapses .250 from it's correct adjustment position. Then you actually need a 7.750 pushrod because that .250 comes back when it's pumped up.

Right on man. I did what you suggested and got a pretty nice pattern on the valves. Gonna pump em up and I'll let you know what happens! MAGA! @@codysmithmotorsports736

I've always used the Felpro BS6141 (or similar). The Ford flathead/Y block seals work for the 403/350 (2-1/2" main) Olds. The Ford 460 seal works with the 400/425/455/350 Diesel (3" main).

Thank you very much for the swift reply. Thanks for the good Olds build video and recording the sound at a higher level, than most TH-cam instruction stuff. This allows me/folks to hear it while working out! @@codysmithmotorsports736

Maintenance/prep for next year. I need to build a new bash bar, and Gridlife spec splitter. I want to reposition the engine and transmission a bit for better ground clearance which will require a bunch of fab. I have some plans for suspension geometry improvements too. Then just some stuff that'll improve reliability and comfort.

Well if it's already cut up then no worries about making things fit.

@@codysmithmotorsports736 Tons of room