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@@TPMAKHOME great question. I always make the top a little wider in the stitch line as the cylinder takes up more space. If you give the stitchline more room, it will even out when you insert the mold/gun. Does that answer your question? On j/k frames I’ll go 1/8”-3/16” wider at the top. On l/n frames. A touch more. Maybe out to 1/4”

@@TPMAKHOME I always make the difference in measurement at the top of the holster and make it using one continuous straight line from the bottom. Starting as normal at the bottom. Again hope that helps.

@@ericlarsenhbeleatherworks4992 Thanks Eric the info was great. Yes, that answered my question, I have only made a couple of wheel gun holsters the other one I made was a J frame and I had a pattern for it already. This (K frame)was my first attempt to make a pattern for one of those from scratch. The holster turned out well on the first try due to your advice. This customer wanted Shark and Alligator on it so it was an expensive rig, I really did not want to do a bunch of trial and error on it. If I had not had your help my options would have been to use more leather and make and test if I had it right to do a lessons learned version. Thanks, I really appreciate the help. You da man!

I keep the stitch line within an inch max and try and keep it within 5/8” on the trigger side. If it’s a strong wide carry? Ie 3:00 and they never move it. You can give the sight side more room for the holster to wrap around the body a little more. Especially if they are very thin. But generally try and go 1” on that side as well. If they are too wide the holster will walk away from the body. Or can… Hope that helps. Be well and thanks for the question.

@@ericlarsenhbeleatherworks4992 thanks!

I’ve never had to add any hardness to leather honestly. I know there are different ways to harden leather….waxes, heat, chemical etc Ive always used back strap and molded it in a way that I’ve never needed any additional stiffness. Sorry I can’t help with your question.

I would love to do one actually The problem is having 1 of each style of holster around to do the video. Lots n lots of holsters. But I’ll see what I can do fairly soon. Thanks for the comment.

I could do that. Great idea. I’ll see what I can do. Thank you.

Maybe….If it’s been dyed and clear coated then it will be harder but you can try. Get a fan you can hang it in front of. Get the holster wet with hot hot water…from a sink. Mold it where you think it needs it and let it dry in front of the fan. As it dries keep molding it a little bit. Mold it around your new gun for the first little bit. After that? It will shrink up more without the gun in it. So let it dry without the gun in it the last bit. Hope that helps.

@@ericlarsenhbeleatherworks4992 yes it's dyed and finished. I will try it and see how it turns out. If anything shrinking it just a little bit will be an improvement. Thank you for your swift response.

@@egger46 anytime. The hotter the water and the longer it dries. The more of a chance it will shrink a tad. Be safe.

Thank you. Glad You guys are still watching these. I need to make some more videos.

They have pull the dot fasteners or one way snaps. Look at the snap, you have to hook the bottom first and then roll them over to snap them. They unhook the opposite way. Hope you didn’t ruin the snaps? I’ve had clients hammer them and ruin them before. Look up pull the dot fasteners.....they can be really tight when new.

@@ericlarsen Thank you for your fast reply. It is working now. My spring did not look the same as yours. I guess the machine did not punch it completely on one side. They others two are fine, after I understood the process. Again, thank you!!!

Fun fact: I was already holding the hammer in my hand when I received your message.

Either 7/8 wickett n Craig.

Ross Name it’s on IG and Facebook I think.

Tommy Cavazos no I don’t but can make one. That would be a long video......I’ll see what I can do for you.

Revolvers are obviously different. I usually take the back panel/or back side up over the cylinder and as a little retention there as well.

Matt Williams horse or bull are used when you need that extra density....like banding a mouth or reinforcing a part of your holster. Since it’s denser it’s also more moisture resistant. So I use it a lot for very humid areas For back panels. It Keeps sweat off of the gun a little longer. It’s also denser so you can go thinner. If you want a thin thin holster that still has a lot of strength horse or bull will allow you to do this. Cowhide can be used for everything else. Dryer environments, basic holsters that don’t need anything strengthened etc. Does that help?

Antonio Barreto thank you. I appreciate it.

Yes. I use 1/4 dowels. I make sure there’s plenty of room.

Crosspoint Holsters yes. Fergie. 😍

Don Kenner I get them directly from scoville. www.dotfasteners.com/ I use 3 pcs and screw then down with 6-32 t nuts and 6-32x3/8” screws. I use the standard length caps with regular snap loops. I use the longer ones with exotic loops....to compensate for the extra thickness. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment.

Don Kenner sorry. I use a standard hand setter on them, but sink the little pc into the leather with a vise....carefully not to over compress them. After I press it into the leather with a vise then I use a standard setter with a mallet.

chris vaello ohhhhh good one. That would be a series of videos. One for exotics that behave and problem exotics like stingray/ostrich/etc. thank you.

Jason Good Thank you...it’s a good suggestion. :)

Tom Anderson this video is just to get your stitchline. Of course you need to mold it after that for proper retention. Hope that answers your question? This video is just for taco style Holsters as they are harder to get an accurate stitchline than a 2 pc holster. All leather holster rely on molding for proper retention.

But I thought in order to get proper retention you really need the holster just a tad bit undersized so that when it's wet you pretty much have to cram the gun in there and then follow up with molding, particularly around the trigger guard. No?

Tom Anderson absolutely not true. My mentor had me make a glue only pancake. No stitching. I wore it around my shop for a year before I changed anything. Stitchlines are a big illusion we have as makers. It’s the molding that has retention. That’s it. Stitchlines keep the molding where it’s supposed to be for 10-20 years but they are soooo over blown. Hope that makes sense. Look at my site, IG or facebook and mine are consistent but not right on the Gun all of time.

Gotcha. Thanks.

Tom Anderson anytime.....

Don Kenner ....amazon or most shoe shop supply houses have them.

Thank you.

Devin Darwin The reason I didn’t get into that is you can have a belt slot, tunnel loop, spring clip or snap loops. Way to much to cover.....yet the stitchline is always the same. So that’s what I covered. The smoke is burning in the ashtray.