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Lol. Yeah that pump didn't want to cooperate with me that day. Lol. The pump is still working as it should. I have the same brand pump in my 2016 Ranger also and haven't had a problem! Seems to be a good aftermarket solution if your in need of a new pump. I've had good luck using them.

@@cpaul1093 the bulbs I use are beamtech led bulb. 6500kw I believe.

If it ran fine before you put all those parts on it I'd change to the old parts 1 at a time and then you'll know what it was when it starts running right again.

Check the speed sensor. Maybe it's not reading correctly. This started to happen all of a sudden? Or after something was done to it? Make sure it shifts into all gears. If it does you may need to change the oil and make sure your using recommended honda oil and oem filter. The transmission runs off oil pressure so if pressure isn't right due to incorrect weight oil or non oem filter it won't shift properly and could slip in gear, especially if you used the wrong oil type and weight. Hope this helps. Let me know if any of that works or not. I'll help as much as I can from here.

Oh ok can you tell me where the speed sensor located my Honda 680 is just like the one in your video it changes in gear no problem I only got 3 gears and shift fine in gears never been to a shop to have any work done to get I bought it used but it just sputtering when I put it in park and set the brakes and give it full throttle it is sputtering I do need a oil change I haven’t changed the oil yet but I got the oil from Honda dealer GN4 10w-30 if I put it in automatic same thing want go pass 35 mph I was trail riding and I noticed it when I got on a long stretch and open it up and noticed it just goes to 35-45 no more than that it doesn’t smoke or anything have power pulling no problem just want go top speed if I can locate speed sensor I will change it starts up and idle no problem when I am on the throttle why it’s parked it sputtering doing full throttle if I keep holding the throttle it will smell like gas and blue smoke like something is holding it back to get full throttle no F1 light flashing at all

@coreylios6115 sounds like fuel. I'd first check fuel pressure and make sure that's right. If it's where is should be there I'd change fuel and clean injector or replace injector. Sounds like injector is clogged or its low on fuel pressure. Thus gas now a days is really messing things up. Let me know if what happens after that definitely change oil and filter after you try this. Should work.

@@davepo6443 sounds like clutches are sticking. I'd remove them and inspect and clean them. Check your belt for any damage

@@alphapackoffroad Thank you. I'll let you know what I find out.

@@alphapackoffroad Thank You for your response. I have some new information on the 2012 Polaris 800 Razor having issues at 45mph. I was asked if it could go faster than 45mph. Just took it for another test. As usual it hesitates at 45mph. I pushed it on a longer stretch and when it gets to 50mph it stops hesitating. When I get to 55mph it hesitates again. Top speed is 60 mph at a maximum of 6500 rpm. To obtain codes, one video suggested turning the key off and on 3 times and it will show a code. Didn’t see anything pop up when I tried it. I don’t know if this 800 has the ability to display any codes? I’d like to include some responses from folks kind enough to offer suggestions to see if it triggers any other ideas pointing to one thing. The spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. They were examined recently and found to be good. I still might replace them as that’s a cheaper item. I suppose it could be a bad spark plug wire.. or coil wire. Your thoughts? Suggestions: fuel pressure check, sounds like fuel pump, spray water on spark plug wires and coil wire, Fuel stabilizer, Belt might be slipping, inspect clutches and belts, don’t think its clutch related, sounds like clutches sticking, check belt for damage, weights in primary clutch are too light, was IAC mechanically stuck open or electrically being opened. Thanks again. I’m hoping this new information might directly point to something that I will try and tackle on my own. Taking it in is a last resort for me. I promise, to get back to you once I find the issue! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. Dave

@@alphapackoffroad I finally have the answers on the 2012 800 Razor issues. Thank you for your response! Summary for 2012 Razor 800: • Fuel pressure was a consistent 44PSI which is in spec. Previously verified during last repairs. • Spark Plugs were checked during previous repairs and color was a light brown (NGK BKR7E) Plugs replaced in previous repairs Jan. 2023 • TPS set at .730 per factory spec. using TPS TOOL brand meter (specified range is .720-.740 TPS voltage setting controls idle and start up. • Overall TPS voltage affects WOT, but that would be bad TPS unit. • IAC solenoid was partially open because of excessive dirt build up in throttle body. • Injectors were checked and cleaned because fuel goes bad much faster in the summer heat of the desert. • Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner because of dirt and oil build up • UNI brand Air Filter cleaned and treated and intake tract cleaned Diagnosis: • During diagnosis test drive the operators RPM’s were watched closely. • During wide open throttle pass on pavement, engine was at 6400 rpm at 45mph. • 6400rpm is on the rev limiter and that’s the surging feeling. Had to feather the throttle lightly to work towards 50mph and hit 6400 rpm again. Definitely Clutch related (clutches were not serviced in Jan of 2023, only on new belt). CLUTCH INSPECTION ON MACHINE: Secondary clutch was difficult to open for belt removal. Primary Clutch: Needed partial rebuild • Installed new OEM sliders • Rollers in the spider were good • Installed new OEM 2- way bearing • Installed new OEM 23-62 weights (removed 23-58 weights) • Installed new OEM shoulder bolts for the weights Secondary Clutch: Tear Down • Internal Rollers in excellent shape • Excessive dirt and debris in bushing area of moveable sheave resulted in hard to open during belt change, also translates to poor operating results • Replaced Belt Drive • After Clutch servicing engine holds at 6150 rpm during wide open. Wide open throttle RPM/MPH test No issue getting to 55mph, did not try for higher MPH as clutches now hold correct RPM

@@davepo6443 I'm glad you got it back going right!! I had a feeling it was in them clutches!

@@bryceoutdoors8628 got on ebay. Best price is what I was looking for. They are all the same. Seller was gggreatparts.

I got mine off market place a long time ago and it needed a rear diff and some other things but it ran and drove so I couldn't pass it up at the time. Since then it's had a lot of upgrades throughout the years. I love mine. Changing it to a xmr was best upgrade by far. They should have made them from the factory in the 1000 short wheelbase in my opinion. I think a lot of can am owners would agree with me on that. Good luck with your bike. Try and Find a parts bike if you can with good parts you need.

I think h11 and 9005. Look up your year make model bulb size and it will tell you what size u need

​@@jordanwilson8716 I unscrewed it. Put needle nose pliers in between blades or in the 2 holes in impeller if they have them and unscrew. When I reinstall it I tighten it by hand as much as I can and it's good to go. Hope that helps you

He hasn't had any issues with it to my knowledge so far. Not sure how much ride time he has put on it tho. If you order one off ebay just check the warranty info. If you can find one with a lifetime or couple years warranty, not a 90day warranty. That way you can get a new one if something did happen to it.

@@alphapackoffroad I’ll keep That in mind, I’ll be able to tell in a ride or two if it will last 😂😂

Yes they are in the rear diff. Wet brake. I have never had to change them. I have a different kodiak rear diff in my big bear without the brake in the diff. Watch a video and you'll see how to change them.

Sure, send one on over to me

@@alphapackoffroad Hi, thanks.Please share your con tact info

@@Bearsdenadventurues I don't see what your referring to. I'm looking at a maverick 1000r 2 seat I have here and don't see anything like that on it. Look up the bike in canampartshouse.com and you can look up the schematics of the year, make, model to see what the part is. That's what I'd recommend doing to figure out what the part is your referring to. Hope that helps you out

@@alphapackoffroad i saw a 2 seater being worked on on here i didnt see it

@@alphapackoffroad thanks brother i got a better look today it was actualy the throttle body we were looking at

Seems to be doing good. Talked to My buddy the other day and he has been riding it. No noises or leaks out of the new Chinese rear diff as of yet.

@@alphapackoffroad can you paste the link?

@@treyswingo9079 just look it up on ebay. Type this in.. Can-am outlander/Renegade xmr rear differential. And there will be multiple options

@@alphapackoffroad yeah I see but wanted the one your buddy got bc it seem to work 😂

@treyswingo9079 the listing isn't available anymore

Still working as it should. He broke the shifter, and the belt so far. The rear end is still good, no noises or leaks.

I used small flat head screw drivers, lol.

@@niccanada01 haven't had one mess up on me yet

No habla

I've dealt with this a lot and this is the best way I've found to do it. Has worked every time for me. Good luck with the fix

How long do you let it heat for?​@alphapackoffroad

Till it melts good enough to put insert back in easily. You can always reheat it up. Make sure you go deep enough with insert

@alphapackoffroad worked great 👍 👌 .. thanks man. The new tank wasn't going to be in for another 2.5 months

@@eduardovazquezmartinez2498 it was the bearings

@@alphapackoffroad Goodmorning, which bearing exactly?

Change them all and the needle bearing. Needle bearing for the pinion is a pain to get out. When 1 or more bearings start to fail the ring and pinion teeth start to make whining noise. Change all the bearings and check that the ring gear is shimmed properly.

Brought him home and let him go by the shop. I like having them around

Been a while since I posted this. It was the diff bearings.

It's working just fine in that 650xmr. I'd put one on you 1000 outlander anyday. Does your bike have a xmr rear diff or a g2.0 rear diff in it? If you don't have the xmr diff it would be a great upgrade for your bike, but you would need a new drive shaft and back plate to change it over to xmr diff.

@@alphapackoffroad Thanks for taking the time to respond. Mine is the XXC so no XMR Diff. Why would you say is a nice upgrade? Top speed should be lower isnt it? There's not much mud where I live.

@enriquevega8616 bike would have the same speed. The xmr has helical cut gears and the regular g2.0 diff has straight cut gears. Xmr diff is stronger, has bigger pinion bearings, and the gears make it stronger in the forward position. Look up differences of the 2 diffs

@@alphapackoffroad I thought XMR had shorter gearing for increased torque at low speeds. I am taking into consideration buying the XMR diff. Is the Chinese XMR also reinforced and has helical cut gears?

Yes Chinese one is the same. The xmrs have lower gears in transmission, not front and rear diffs. I have a video on swapping to xmr diff on my channel. I tell you everything you need to know on the video. Go check it out