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That isn't a feature of the program, it would have to be added into a future update. Also Steam Discussions are where I keep an eye out for feature requests and bug reports, so it would be a good place to post in the future.

Glad you like it. I kept the edges sharp because I wanted the boxes to stack together perfectly flat on the shelf, but a chamfer will certainly make them more comfortable and safe for handling.

A couple had the resin crack, usually from an accidental drop, but most are doing fine.

I don't own an FDM printer.

Thanks. The wrapping actually doesn't stay around the origin. Instead the path finding in later videos has a line of code to calculate how far from the origin the tile is and factors that into the calculation. That way you don;t need the tiles to remain in the same place.

AutoDesk Fusion 360.

It happens to me with every print on the Saturn, regardless of the shape or contact area.

@@TavarinProductions interesting. Have you tried different bottom layer exposure times?

@@pysokon7714 Yeah, tried a few different times, and it has a small effect, but even below the recommended base curing times for resins I still get a flair at the bottom of my prints.

The friction honestly seems to do most the work for latching closed no problem. I do like the idea of lining this with some felt or so though o.0 great ideas

Thanks, was definitely a feature I needed to have.

Yes, you can save the maps. I haven't made a tutorial on making a save file yet, but you should be able to find one to create a writeable save file. Once you have that to create the save data you can go through each tile in the grid and write into the save lists the tile state (type, resources, tress, hills, units, etc...). The loading it is reading the data and applying the variables back into each blank hex.

Although I do agree that using individual tiles is more computationally expensive than a terrain map, they really don't add a huge amount as even my old underpowered surface is able to run the program fine.

I never had the thicker layers with my Mars printer at the base, even with the higher exposure times, and with the Saturn it goes well beyond the bottom high exposure layers, it's almost an inch into the piece that is wider. And no holes, it sticks to the plate much better than the film, so it stays on the baseplate just fine. I've printed 12 of these right on the baseplate and none of them detached.

It wasn't meant to be a tutorial, just a video to show something I made.

No, I just printed all the pieces flat on the base plate.

Thank you for letting me know, I've fixed the link.

Yes, watch full screen, like just about every other coding tutorial out there.

It is something on my to do list, though could you be more specific what you mean by more open to config? Or other specific changes you think would make it better? Ideally I would like it to work similar to DnD Beyond at some point, but that is a lot of work to get done.

If you tilt the camera a bit, then rotate any unit and building sprites to be in plane with the camera it will look isometric.

I completely forgot about this. I've uploaded it as a remix to Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5580663

​​@@TavarinProductions Thank you! I have been looking for a counter I could print off for D&D, but all the ones I have found before your video either only have 2 dials (not great when characters can easily have more than 100 HP), or these weird rubber-band assemblies that are not great.

The stacking is likely due to the coordinate system not matching the size of the hexes you made. The hexes need to have a width of 1 unit, so either they are more than 1 unit, or your sprite size is wider than than the pixels per unit value. If UI elements are getting under the hexes then the UI order in layer is too low. Set the UI order to something really high and make sure the UI z coordinate is 0, and they should layer properly.

@@TavarinProductions that actually makes loads of sense, still getting my feet wet after doing some mobile apps years ago. Truly appreciate the response.

I cover random resource generation in a later tutorial, you could adapt that for base generation as well. And I don;t cover making the system a mesh. I keep the tiles as separate objects to allow for the map to wrap around, as well as allow for individual tiles to be modified by units or resources.

@@TavarinProductions really appreciate the tips and guidance. Any chance you would be available for some paid work to help me out with this? You're leagues ahead of me on my journey haha. A twitter or something perhaps to chat a little more?

@@BroDojoSensei Not sure I'm that far ahead, I'm still pretty novice myself.

I'm only sanding the box because my printer is creating a wider base with visible layer lines. If you have your printer settings tuned correctly you shouldn't need to sand this print at all.

Thanks for the support, let me know anything you would like to see added or fixed. And long time no see.

@@TavarinProductions Much obliged!

Yeah, it should work fine for 3D games, you just need to make each tile and unit a 3D object, and otherwise instantiate it the same as these tutorials. If you set up each objects pivot point correctly you probably won't even need to alter the z-axis positioning.

I have only done for square 2D tiles, haven't tried to get it working for hexes yet. Your best bet is creating images for each side to blend between each tile type, and attaching them as 6 child objects of each hex, then raytracing the 6 sides around the hex after map generation, and setting the appropriate sprite to each side. I do plan on getting to that myself at some point, but it's a bit down my project list, so it will be a while before I get a tutorial on that made.

@@TavarinProductions tx, i will try that maybe

Heyo, glad you like the program. Right now there isn't a way to simplify the interface. If you want to use a simpler rule set I would say just use the manual dice at the top left of the game screen, and use those rolls, which will display in the right side messages, to determine your outcomes. That way you can ignore most of the options on the left.

@@TavarinProductions thanks for replying. One suggestion, make community able to create and upload their own assets. You can lift some of the pressure to add to the game and let people take care of that. It's a win, win. I know there's a feature to edit current ones, but being able to add your own could make the effort very well worth it.

@@Rstory100 Due to the way the game assets are shared over the network I'm unable to have players make their own. It takes a decent bit of work on the backend to add in an asset, so the only real way to allow custom assets in the game is reskinning an existing asset. Fortunately you can make the asset look like whatever you want, so if you have a chair you'll never use you can make it a dragon statue, or anything really.

Thanks!