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I have the ArcadeSD and his old Gamma-1 and Arcadeshop PCBs The menu's for those boards are freaking amazing, I enjoy the fact that you can just scroll and start a game right away.

This video is fantastic, and possibly a starting point for me. I've been chasing the idea for years to run my older games on an actual RGB CRT (Sony Trinitron) but have always got lost in how to actually create the older signal type 15KHz and 240p. (is it 30Hz or 60Hz?) The last thing on Earth I'd expect is to be able to get this out of a cheap HDMI to VGA adaptor or a Pi. There are so many years of rabbit holes requiring really old software and special Hardware to produce this result. With no real answers or hardware availability. This looks like it could actually work much to my surprise. I have a number of other issues to overcome as my MAME and ROMS are all from 1997 and only work on some old Windows98/95 version of MAME32 that I have. So apparently, I need a more modern version of MAME and all new ROMS as my old ones will not work. But that's an entirely different issue that I can figure out.

Love this technique but if you want to remove the Interlaced flicker on 480I (mode 6) you can use the following settings to get a flicker free progressive version that is perfect to the original boards. I have tried this with Circus Charlie and I get a perfect result. Took a lot of trial and error on resolutions but here are my settings on config.txt :) Hope this helps :) #hdmi_safe=1 # uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible # and your display can output without overscan disable_overscan=1 overscan_scale=1 # uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console # goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border #overscan_left=16 #overscan_right=16 #overscan_top=16 #overscan_bottom=16 hdmi_ignore_edid=0xa5000080 # uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus # overscan. #framebuffer_width=1280 #framebuffer_height=720 # uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output #hdmi_force_hotplug=1 # uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA) hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=87 # For example, 256X240 @ 60 Hz hdmi_cvt=256 240 60 1 0 0 0 # uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in # DMT (computer monitor) modes hdmi_drive=2 # uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or # no display config_hdmi_boost=11 hdmi_pixel_encoding=2 sdtv_mode=16 display_rotate=1

You made my day! I was struggling with a GBS8100, for me its a piece of crap! Used your settings and voilla! Now have an awesome picture quality! Thank you! Only thing to say is you don't have to combine hsync with vsync, i used only hsync and everything is ok! :)

Brilliant…

It looks goods, like the light plug tip thanks.

I'm trying to connect my PC to my CRT that has a 360x240. Im using Windows 10 and im trying custom the Res onto 360x240. How do you change the refresh rate to 15krz? Some reason it wont let me change it on to 15khz. Do I need a program like Quickres, to allow me to change the refresh rate to 15khz?

Where are you located? Would you build a game for me using my Centipede case?

Would you sell one of those cables?

Very tastefully converted Pacman cabinet! I have used the VGA cable hack method on all of my cabinets, but use a PC for the emulation. I've got hold of a Raspberry PI now, and am going to do some experimentation soon. Thanks for the detailed video!

Sick builds. Have you tried "run-ahead" mode in retroarch to remove the controller latency? I find 2 frames is perfect.

Anyone who does this have any issues with the voltages from the VGA's RGB signals being too low? I've heard that is a concern that causes too dim of a picture.

Do you think the breakout cable can be used on PC or only works on a Pi?

When you tie the horizontal and vertical sync lines into a single line going into the arcade CRT, do you have to add a resistor in series between those lines and the monitor? Doesn't that double the potential current going into the monitor's sync?

I bought one of these cga adaptors, they are pretty decent so long as you have a good quality screened vga cable and a decent graphics card, when i hooked it up to the vga port on my old laptop the picture was a mess, blurry and lots of interference i thought great this no good, but when i hooked it up to my gaming pc via dvi on a nivida gtx 670 the picture was spot on, nice solid colours and and no colour bleeding or interference, these are good little adaptors, the only issue with them is they don't remember you picture settings so its best to use your monitor controls and any other picture adjustment should be made in the graphics card control panel, luckly nivida has a decent control panel to get the picture perfect. I also have one of those ipacs, although they work fine for emulators for 2 player mode they are pretty useless for pc games as i found out with streets of rage 4, unfortunately the pc sees them as a keyboard so a second player option is unavailable on some pc games unless you have a usb controller which is what i did, i bought 2 usb controllers stripped them and soldered wires to the pcb, boxed it and plugged it into my control pannel and pc for 2 players and it works fine, got rid of the jpac as sor4 is a must on my cab and pretty useless with out 2 player option.

What are you using for the lock bar?

Thank you for sharing it! It worked like magic; better, faster and easier than I expected!

Do you know where I can find the break out cable for similar monitor? The link is down

Instant sub, thanks for the info! Question. I have two CRT monitors with the CGA/9-pin input (and the requisite RGB pins visible/accessible inside, similar to an arcade monitor) that seem like maybe they were from a video wall or similar. Before I go buy an RPi3 and/or other accessories, is there any chance a weird resolution would prevent this from working? And/or if so, any other ideas for testing these CGA/9-pin monitors somehow before ditching/donating them?

Do you need blocking diodes or anything when you combined the H & V sync?

I had to do this about 12 years ago to run a arcade vga to a scart for crt TV that I installed in a cabinet

Do you know if you still need the breakout cable if you're using a JPAC?

How is the video pins on the converter board arranged, is it red green blue ground sync

So, if my CRT already has a VGA port built out of it, and I do a HDMI -> VGA converter from the Pi, do I still need to build a break out cable? Or can I just use the cable + adapter and adjust the Pi config?

hey back again..so i purchased the arpicade with jamma from high score, and 3bplus with arpicade 3x latest download. i also have the WG 4900 zaxxon standard resolution. now come to find out from arpicade noob section, this wont support medium resolution Arcade CRT, only low resolution. the picture is split half at top and half at the bottom of screen which i heard you mention in the video, and the picture is not clear like its not scanning properly. do you have any suggestions for my setup possibly changing config to what you have cause you have same monitor has i have?? any help would be great .

Great video, thanks for sharing! Could you please explain what exactly is providing the native 15khz video signal? I thought VGA was 31khz natively.

Do you know if the arcade CGA monitors (with R G B S connectors) can show more than 16 colors? Like can each color only be on or off or do they accept analog values?

i tried this on a pi4 with a XM-2001N monitor and it couldnt get it to work. it was heart breaking

Very informative vid mate - helped me heaps. 1 question though - doesn't VGA output @ 31kz (and the monitor would be 15kz) or is this something you can adjust in the config? Cheers :p

Did you ever figure out how to rotate the service menu? Driving me crazy. 😀

I used a VGA666 interface, I think is a cleaner solution. My cabinet also has CSync, so I had to combine the sync signals, as well. As far as I know it is not recommended to just connect both cables together, you need a combiner circuit like this: www.retrorgb.com/building-a-passive-sync-combiner.html . Also, there is a specific 666 converter that has the csync ready: retrogamerestore.com/vga666rgbs/

I'm confused as hell. You are doing HDMI to a VGA adaptor. What is the actual monitor? (just watched the video again to get that) Is the Wells Gardner actually just a VGA monitor? (guessing no) "standard arcade monitor from the time" no specs that I can find so far. =Your title is CGA and 240p= You DO NOT get a CGA digital 16 color signal from an HDMI to VGA adaptor! and also the Wells Gardner is not a CGA digital input monitor right? What's going on here? also I am new to this. I am trying to figure out how to get 240P RGB and Sync from a Pi to an RGB monitor at 15KHz (which you also can't get from standard VGA) Also can't find any kind of spec sheet on a Wells Garner 4900 or 4901. Confused still? yes very. And I expect those to be analog RGB +Sync 240p 15KHz And not what I'd expect you getting from and HDMI to VGA adaptor on a Pi. Help! and thanks!

Friend can you send a pic of the cable ?to see exactly the connection because i make one but doesnt work.thank you

Can you email me about your design. - pacman@videoarcade.tv - thanks...

The easier, yet more expensive, option is to get an ArPiCade that converts JAMMA to a Pi, so that you don't need the iPAC or CGA adapter.

The settings i have to do it before i connect the pi with the crt ,in an another screen or i can do it in the crt screen?if you have any photo of your cable connectivity i would appreciate it. Thank you friend..

I never knew you could do any of this with pi

I am using a 60 in 1 currently, I had no idea you could set the pi up for vertical. I may well install my pi 4 as well now, but my crt is on scart which is a pain in the arse, got an ultimate scart adaptor on the way as nothing else has worked properly display wise using any cable adaptor so I'm hoping the ultimate adaptor will do it. I can only dream of a wells G. monitor at min :P one day....One day.

Great video. So much great information! Have an old cabinet with a good arcade CRT looking to add a PI too it. Seems so simple the new / second way of doing it. I was wondering what image are you using for your PI. Where to find image? How large? Been looking for an image like the one in your video, really like it. Keep up the good work. Thanks.

Howdy. If you JUST did the wiring and not the in depth coding to the RasPi, how would the image look?

Thank you so much for your info. I have an old Time Pilot cabinet that I was trying to configure with a Rasberry Pi 3 and didn't have any luck getting it to work with the original CRT until I found your video. My monitor is slightly different (Wells Gardner K4951). My JAMMA harness is connected to a J-PAC and I can confirm that the monitor works great with your settings without using the custom cable since the J-PAC is already connected to the monitor through the JAMMA harness.

Awesome video dude 👍🏻 👍🏻

I LOVE THIS

Hey thanks for info found one Mike's Arcade but also had to buy jamma ext. Hopefully soon I'll get this all figured out.

I hooked up my hdmi to vga and made.a.cord with a pinot has you described! I also entered the changes in the config.txt but no dice no picture on my car 15kHz zaxxon cabinet my screen works with Saxon pcb. What version of retropi should I be using? Think I'm going to update my rasppi have not updated my pi2 in 3 years. How's the south park pin going? I'm sure I'm missing something or I'm thinking of getting the jamma hat for mine like you did on your other machine. Thanks if you can help in anyway but no biggie if your busy. Thanks for sharing your videos.

Brilliant to see this kind of video! Great explanations. Hope to see some more video. Picture looks great on the pacman. Nice to see you keep the awsome 19in crt. Thanks

Great video and great explanation! Do you know if I could do this with a medium (EGA) resolution monitor? Thanks for the video.

Great job! I’m in the same position with my miss Pac man cabinet. What version of mame are you using? And I guess the trick is to find the roms for that version of mame. Also did you get the high score saving to work? I have a similar set up with RaspberryJAMMA but trouble with some games working or appearing in the menu

Enjoyed the video! Curious what version of mame you are using? I have about 10 diffrent arpicade images and always on the lookout for which roms work best with each software version. (Arpicade 3.7, 3.8, etc...). By the way, the Arpicade itself is a fantastic product for any Jamma setup.

Really AWESOME content man, bring to us more videos like that :D