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I hook mine up to the computer by WiFi sit on my desk .

A very informative video, thanks for sharing. One question... which fan is it that you plugged into the mainboard power terminals?

One way you can end up with a lot of unnecessary waste with AMS is improper orientation of your object. The purge tower on the prepare page might show the purge tower going to the top of the build area, but after slicing, it only extends to the last filament swap, so if you can keep those filament swaps as low to the build plate as possible, you minimize how much filament must be used to build that tower. If you're designing your own parts, you can either design them to work this way, or cleverly split the model into interlocking parts to take advantage of this. This one is a little bit niche, but another option that I've found somewhat useful is setting the "interlocking depth of a segmented region" under the advanced settings in the others tab to something near your desired shell thickness. It doesn't reduce waste, and can even increase it, but that may also result in a small reduction in the total amount of filament used. The plate I'm printing now went from 138.09g to 137.20g of total filament used, despite a tiny increase of 0.03g of waste (number of filament swaps was unchanged). I find it helps on otherwise single color models that I've used the color painting tool on, because Bambu Studio seems to extend those colored sections pretty far into the model, replacing parts of the sparse infill with several more perimeters. This option restores the sparse infill on alternating layers by limiting the depth of the color by what you specify here, which helps a bit. I think this option is intended to help with problems with adhesion between different colored materials, which I've never had a problem with, and the filament reduction is an unintended side effect.

I really think you have a responsibility to your viewers to tell them the truth about bamboo lab can break this at any point or that you might have to choose a firmware that does not allow you to go back to basic. And you void your warranty by using it.

Really great tips and concisely presented! Thank you very much for this video :)

This is an informative, funny and entertaining channel. I've subscribed.

I wanted to get one of those after they added some more abilities that were not present at the time but in over 300 hrs of printing I have touched the buttons 3 times. I use the Bambu studio and just use that. If I have to stop a print I do it through my iPhone handy app. I have touched my X1C 12 times in 400 hrs of use mainly to Close after print screen . Other wise I do not even need any screens on them at all, this is if you use your computer. Strange but true.

6:25 About the preview, there is no one. It is not implemented at the moment. So I will definitely not buy the Panda Touch until it is implemented.

Great review, It helped me deside to buy it. Thanks

4:33 I think technically the Z access is correct because it’s the head movement relative to the plate. So when you press to move the head down, the plate moves up to be closer to the head as the head can’t move. They should add a setting to reverse the controls for users that want it the other way round.

The panda screen is a very cool if not “necessary” upgrade to the default screen. My only concern is if this device will continue to be supported by Bambu Lab. The next set of firmware upgrades may affect this altogether. Time will tell if this will last long.

What can you do when you scale the whole model? The gap will become alot bigger, so i wonder if there is a mathimatical way to change the size of the gap depending on the scaling persentage in a printing slicer program. For example, im trying to make an action fuigure of different sizes. I have the design of the joints that have been cut out for a 6inch fuigure. But if i want to make the same fuigure scsled up to 10 inches, what persentage do i put in for scaling up tje model to that size and how much bigger by percent should i scale down the "male" pin to make the peices fit snug and keep the gap at .2 mm? Do i have to remake the joint. Also asking because im trying to make a boolean key joint and i worry about constantly making new ones instead of editing the thickness of the gap

Good print, what was the wall speed settings.

Textured flex plate is the best for tpu.

Great video, thanks for sharing.

This is real cool, good to know I can still CAD better then AI lol

your part is underextruded, might not matter for this application but if you take this profile for critical parts like a lid to seal off liquids, it will just seep through the gaps, happened to me. Increasing walls does not help, i really needed to change flow ratio, temps and especially speeds to get rid of the gaps. It also helps to roll off the filament so the direct drive gear only has to work on extruding and not do double duty by also pulling the filament from the spool. Bambus backside spoolholder has a lot of friction that usually doesn't matter for stiff filaments, but soft TPU really benefits from such strain relief

Awesome information, very helpful! Thank you very much.

I need to convert a STL file to DXF, what free software would you suggest?

Why didn't you mention solidworks

Thank you for this. I am wanting and ready to get into 3d printing. Programmer for cnc routers for decades ( yes I'm old ) and know Autocad and Mastercam thoroughly, but this additive process is new to me.

Super great tutorial. Thanks for sharing!

i didn't try to make this myself but as a set builder in theater I saw that the weak point at the corner can be reinforced by putting a triangular block on the inside. Y ou probably already thought of this but I thought I'd send it along anyway. Happy lifting.

Simply beautiful

One very good feature of the AMS not mentioned is that it knows how much filament is left on a spool, and it does this in a very clever way. It will pull through a known length of filament, and then count how many revolutions of the spool were made. Using this, it knows that if a roll has a lot of filament, the spool would rotate less than a spool with not much filament, and it's pretty accurate. I believe you have to enable this feature as it's not on by default.

an onshape tutorial would be amazing !

Best to run TPU directly from an active filament dryer, start with 6 hrs of drying then run. Settings other than standard have less effect on quality, dryness has the most effect.

is very hard to print tpu is 0 this machine no work im test 20 different tpu 95

I've found on all the Bambu printers I've used (A1, P1s and X1C) they all need the retraction settings increased to print TPU cleanly with no stringing.

I've never had luck using the load and unload options. I just hear the nozzle and use the extruder option to remove and feed it.

Just use one of the spare ptfe tubes when usibg the external spool for easier loading.

Dry your filament. You don't need to change plate. Pei works best for every type of filament. Get the high flow tpu and print at high speed perfect clean prints every time.

Nice one, also thought you were going to print the teddy too - that would look great in a nice gold fillament would need a lot of supports though

06:40 yes thanks for this approach to multi colour printing. Laurie NZ. 😊

I've been wondering about how well the X1-Carbon printed TPU. Did you have to lower the print speed or does the slicer do it when you select TPU as the filament?

I have used tpu for years and the bed did not matter (glass or Pei as long as it was at the right temperature(80c+) and clean. And all that faffing about to load it was ridiculous.

Just little bit of drying the filament and the nozzle temp and stringing is gone

AGREED!!!

We need more people like you

If you click the drop-down on the shape you have placed you get the L W H adjustments that can be edited… MOST of the time. So I’m glad you did the editing this way since it is consistent. Also, you can hold shift and click multiple shapes to select them instead of dragging the selection box around things.

There's a 4th way - th-cam.com/video/suFbfer1WhI/w-d-xo.html

Increase wall loops (wall count) under strength from 2 to 6, all screws need to be printed horizontally with support, you can use PETG for raft interface support that way you get clean threads (PLA and PETG don't stick to each other, you can youtube PETG support for PLA), infill pattern: try triangle, and increase infill to something like 50%+. Decrease volumetric speed in your PLA filament profile by half (CNC kitchen: high speed = poor layer adhesion = weak parts), I hope this helps.

Hi Everyone, please leave your ideas and suggestion in the comments below. Thanks for watching.

i didnt think id be spending my vacation this week watching this but hey here we are and i loved it lol

Wall width is super important for strength, in most cases more than infill. It looks like you are printing with just 2 walls? At least you were the screws, maybe the setting for other parts was different. Try using 5

I love watching people doing experiments like this. I recommend increasing the infill on your base and eliminating as many sharp corners in it as you can sharp corners are inherently weaker than a radius.

It would be nice if there were an auto-adjust of infill density tuned for each filamnet swap so that the wasted plastic is used for up to 100% infill rather than being pooped.

What do you think about flush to infill combined with reducing the purge amount at each swap? Maybe it will be okay for filaments that are not too far apart like two shades of the same base colour.

Great tips!

Awesome! I though I saw a print go by object the week I got the printer, but somehow missed the print by object option in the settings! Will definitely be using that in future after seeing you point it out.