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This is definately a flaw. I have had luck with making sure the o-ring is lubed, and then tighten it down, if It leaks, loosen it 1/4 turn and then tighten it again. You might need to do it more than once, but that seams to get the o-ring in the proper position, eventually. The sumps have a goofy way of sealing with the o-ring. It doesn't close down on the o-ring, kind of squashing it, to make the seal. It bottoms out so that you can't tighten it any further. Not a great design.

I am on the fence. With the loc-tite, I think it will last longer than the cheap plastic ones, but time wiil tell. With that said, I was really upset when I went to shut off the fuel and the handle wasn't there after 1 use.

Yeah, I looked at the reviews. Specifically I looked at the 1 star reviews, they were pretty awful... Thanks for the reply. Maybe it will work for you🤞

Glad the video helped!

Glad the video helped!

Thank you very much for the Super Thanks! I am glad the video helped

Thanks for the video, it was super helpful. I am still seeing turbid water post install , I guess I need to flush the system till it runs clean

If it is cloudy, that could be just air bubbles. If you let it set for a minute and the cloudyness goes away, I would say it is just air.

@@TheFixitShedthanks

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Yeah, pretty much. Glad you liked it!

Still going strong. I haven't had any problems with it

Aproximadamente 1,5 litros

Glad you liked it!

sure. whatever works for you.

The hardest part seems to be the brake pedal assembly. You can try to clean up the old one. I tryied taking my old blower apart, but got as far as the brushes. The brushes were fine, so still don't know exactly why the old one failed. I am glad you liked the video. Thank you! Good luck with yours. Let me know how it goes.

@TheFixitShed Given the blower's price and complexity I changed my mind: I'll order a new one first, then replace the old one. It did his job for more then 10 years and I would rather avoid having to dismount everything twice if cleaning up is not a solution. I will try cleaning up the old one anyway just by curiosity, if it works I'll get a spare part, it's fine:) Alright, sure I will keep you posted :) Best regards!

Thanks! Glad you liked it

I agree with you, but, the flow direction is printed on the label. You can see that on the old and new filters the labels are both oriented the same when installed. So one of the filters was labeled incorrectly. At the time, I was not sure which one was incorrect. So I installed it according to the flow direction on the label.

@@TheFixitShed I had the same thing where the flow was the wrong way! lol

LOL

Thanks!. It is a tight space inder there.

I hope your wrist heals quickly. Best of luck to you

What does your owners manual say?

You're welcome!

@James-w9t6o You can, but you would need some different pieces than what come in the kit. The T connector that you put on the main water line to send to the RO system is a splitter, so it sends water to both. You would need to change it so it only sends water to the RO system, and then you would need a second one for the water coming out of the RO system. Or, maybe you don't really need a T connector, you just need 2 fittings that will connect the main water line to the RO input and output. I don't know that you would be happy with the resut though. This is not a high volume system. Trying to wash dishes or anything where you need a high volume of water would be painfully slow. They do make whole house water filtration systems that would be better suited.

@ thanks for the advice

Glad the video helped you out!

it makes a world of difference

@@TheFixitShed Do you have a part number by chance (or what did you search on eBay)?

I think if you search on "TOYOTA MATRIX HOOD SUPPORT GROMMET" you will find it

Hope you paid him accordingly

Glad it was helpful!

Yes I would agree. I have had luck with making sure the o-ring is lubed, and then tighten it down, if It leaks, loosen it 1/4 turn and then tighten it again. You might need to do it more than once, but that seams to get the o-ring in the proper position, eventually. It is a different way of sealing with the o-ring. It doesn't close down on the o-ring, kind of squashing it, to make the seal. It bottoms out so that you can't tighten it any further. Not a great design.

@TheFixitShed agreed. I've even tried using plumbers tape to seal it and ot worked once. Customer service said the model is discontinued. So that'll go in the trash. wasted money

They don't really have a relay like the turn signals do. might be a problem with the switch?

Help

If the valve at the tank is not working, you need to find a valve somewhere farther back that will turn it off. If you have to go all the way back to where the water comes in the house, there should be another way of shutting it off. You have to trace the plumbing back, to find it.

I am glad you found the video helpful!

Thanks for contributing

@ ya no problem

look at what changed in the new place? what type of heat (did the house have oil vs electric in the apartment maybe)? does the apartment have an electric hot water heater and the house had hot water from the furnace? Those two things can have a huge impact on your electric bill. talk to the other apartments. Is your bill more than theirs or are the all about the same? If yours is way more than the others, talk to the landlord about tracking down the issue.

Any videos on cleaning carb on this one?

This is an old video. I can't believe I didn't cover that. In newer videos I usually state quantity and weight of oil. I don't remember exactly, but I believe it is about 2 quarts. Just keep checking the dipstick as you add oil so that you don't over fill it.

and 10w-30 should be fine

I haven't needed to, so no videos on that yet.

@alon1952 no, you can do it on a horizontal pipe. You just want to make sure you drill in from the top of the horizontal pipe.

@@TheFixitShedok. I have everything set up but when I turn it on no water is trickling out of the tap. No leaks either.

@@alon1952 Well, good news on the leaks. Does water flow from the old sink faucet? Did you open the T valve? Were you able to fill the big sumps? Did you flush the sumps?

@ so it started to go after a cpl mins which I thought was longer than usual, but seems to be all good! Thanks

@@alon1952 Congratulations on your success!

I have been happy with the Caltric pads I got on Amazon (link in description)

Glad you found it helpful!

Glad it helped!

Thanks. I am glad you liked the video. Getting the brake peadal assembly back in, is the hardest part, I think. Be patient. Don't break anything. Don't force anything. Use the position of the four bolts around the master cylinder push rod as a guide for where the top bolt is. If you can remove both brake pedal sensors without breaking them (like I did), that will give you more room to maneuver the assembly.

I am about to give it a try too, how did it go: did you manage puting everything back in place...having the blower working fine AND the brake pedal 😨 Those tend to be usefull too😅

Yes, add fluid in the dipstick hole. Hydrolic fluid, in general, is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. you want to keep it sealed to prevent that, as absorbing moisture and lead to things like oxidation and corrosion.

@ okay that’s a great answer, thanks. In the case that I might have allowed moisture into the hydraulic fluid, would replacing it be as easy as letting it drain from the dipstick hole and then refilling it?

If you want to be thorough, you may want to drain it, fill it, run the splitter a few times to flush out the fluid in the piston, drain it, and then fill it again.

@@TheFixitShed great, thanks so much. I’m going to check your channel for a wood chipper maintenance vid

Congratulations on your success!! Glad the video helped.

Thank you, Thomas! To you as well! I remember working on the brakes on my 68 Mustang. It had those kind of retaining clips. I had a tool for it that sort of looked like a screw driver. I still have it, actually and was wondering if it might have been useable on these clips. Similar method, where you have to push down and turn. I still have to do the right side, I may try it out and report back. I am glad you enjoy my videos. Your continued support means a lot!

$20 is a good price! You did well

I didn't ever try, and I don't have it any more to examine. Sorry

Depends where the noise is coming from. Is it a squeaking noise, or a rattle or... Is it coming from the heating unit, or is it comind from the fireplace part. I think there are only 2 things that move that might make noise. the fan for the heater and the roller that reflects the fire light/ if it is coming from the heater fan, it is probably worn out and in need of replacing. although, there may be som debris in there that is causing the noise. try cleaning it out real well first. If it is coming from the reflective roller mechanism, again, I would start with cleaning it out real well, and then oil any friction points.

I have a 4 part series on a 2002 Rebel carb rebuild. There may be better coverage of what you need to know in there. th-cam.com/video/nydNr93GQQU/w-d-xo.html

Won't turn on after changing the elements?

You're welcome!

I don't know if the warm water trick would work or not. I haven't noticed a change in viscosty when applying it in warm weather vs. cold weather. I also haven't ever put vaseline on the cap, and never had a problem getting the cap off.

There should be a rubber gasket in the supply line hose where it connects to the bottom of the fill valve. The fill valve should also have a rubber gasket to seal around the base of the valve and the tank bottom.