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@@matthewdouglas2373 if it’s the same bolts as the comments about a year ago, I made a short. Let me know if not, and I’ll check this weekend. Cheers

Thanks brother. I appreciate the kind words. I wish I could say everything worked the first time and every weld was perfect, but all I can do is put more time and thought into each step to get better each day. Thanks again, cheers

That's one of the reasons, plus it was cheaper for the extra concrete then getting longer 4x4. The ground dropped about 6" from end to end. From what I was told, they'd be strong enough with the rebar going deep enough and below the freeze line. (I'm not a structural engineer).

Fair point

Thank you

Thanks, the bolts just keep it on the fence while you attach the come-along or stretcher. Once you have it in tension, they don’t do anything.

Thanks James. I had that same feeling when I was planning that project. I was selling build plans for no structural projects but wasn’t making any money, probably due to my poor marketing.

I did it once when I moved. I went 70mph for 20 minutes with no issues. The shade frame does come off the rollover bar with four bolts, or the shade cloth can come off the frame by unscrewing nuts. I'm sure you could come up with a quicker way to disconnect it.

Thanks, great build!

Thank you! Cheers!

@@ABooneBuild Cheers to you amigo. Question for you: Why not use the chop saw to cut your flat stock? I don't do a ton of metal work but when I needed a lot of 4x4' plates the steel yard used their hydraulic sheers and man was it fast as can be. I think I am going to need to make 27 of these things so that may be how I go about it.

Thanks. I was doing this project when the supply chains were all messed up due to people's reaction to the C-bug. You might be able to get them for a good price now. Check out Menards. Most metal yards will cut up the stock for you for a price. I like to learn new skills and buy tools, so sometimes I do things the long way for the experience. I had bought a new plasma cutter and wanted to practice with it. It would have been quicker to have them sheer it for me but then I wouldn't have the money to get the new tool. Most the guys at the yard are happy to talk shop. I suggest letting them know your plans and they'll give you input. For this one, I got slightly thinker and wider stock b/c they were selling it at a discount. I wasn't putting up walls so it didn't matter if the brackets were slightly wider than the poles. They also made sure I got the right rebar. Good luck with your project. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

@@ABooneBuild Good insight. I will take a look around for pricing. I was looking at the sturdy wall versions because the Simpsons only had a single piece of rebar on them and look like they could swivel. Probably very unlikely once the girts have it locked down. Thought about buying them and welding a second piece onto them. The sturdy wall version of these are around $154 each. I dang near fell out of my chair when I did the math on how many I need. Makes sense on using the cutoff wheel. I hope you are enjoying the plasma cutter. I would enjoy playing around with one of those too. Also, my torch work looks like a tragedy! Ha! Have a great one and thanks for taking the time to respond. TC.

You got it, I like talking shop. That total price would make my chair wobble too. I'm no expert, just a hobbyist, I'd think the wood itself would be more likely to start twisting before the single rebar footing, without girts. Walls will start to add more strain on parts due to the pressure differential. My general approach is, find a plan or kit that's been stamped by a structural engineer, then figure out what parts I can make myself cheaper and stronger (i.e. thicker metal, more gussets, etc). Looking back, I think I used the plasma on other footings. Either way, my first projects with the plasma cutter looked more like I was making saw blades. I'm still not great, but it comes in handy for curved lines.

Thanks

A706 rebar is what is needed here.

Thanks for commenting. I agree, if you’re not confident in your welding, don’t build your own. These do look familiar. I’d need to recheck the engineering plans but these may not have met spec compared to the ones selected or I couldn’t find the spec to check them. Also, when I made my own, steel cost was about double today’s cost and supply chains had major delays/availability. Cheers

Awesome, glad to hear it was helpful and you got your saw working again. Cheers

Thanks Andy. Glad to hear it was helpful. Cheers

Send me an email at ABooneBuild@Gmail.com and I’ll get you the plans.

Just did last night

My pleasure. What project are you building?

You can see how I made them in the link below. Patio Trusses Lumber Cups th-cam.com/video/2TPvK3_GBJM/w-d-xo.html

Thanks Dan. I’ll check Sunday and get back to you. cheers

I just uploaded a short with the bolt dimensions. Hope it helps. Cheers

Are you suggesting I handle it?

Thanks, and that’s awesome! I enjoy shop talk so happy to answer questions. Cheers

Thanks my dear

Thanks

Haha, I remember you got some Scottish heritage. I found the flag online that’s pretty close to our clan weave.

@@ABooneBuild it fits as a great center piece; good work!

Thanks

I have multiple snips. I just usually have pliers handy. Cheers

Thanks my dear

Haha, just me, reading and watching videos to learn from, but you got me to talk shop with whenever you want. Did you get the sheered bold out of the block?

@@ABooneBuild Unfortunately no; the JB Weld was an utter failure to be honest; I think the humidity in my garage didn't allow it to cure properly and when I went to check on it a day later; it was not bonded fully; so I ended up purchasing a whole new oil sump 😐. However, I finished the rebuild and used it to mow last weekend and everything sounds great; I even tuned the idle/carb setting and used a tachometer to make sure the RPM is precise. Everything is to spec!

That’s a bummer on the JB Weld, but glad you stuck with it. I bet that was a great feeling mowing with it!

@@ABooneBuild of course 😏

Thanks

Thanks, it helped me a whole lot. I wish you luck with your project.

it's nominal dimensions are 30' wide, 50' long, and 12' high

cool, I'm glad it was helpful.

Thanks, I can’t always wear tattered shirts

Awesome and thanks. It took a weekend to set the footings, a week to cure, and a long week to get up.

@@ABooneBuild okay cool, just curious. all of it paid off . It looks great

Thanks and hope yours goes smoothly

Thanks. The design definitely took longer then the build. I looked up the brackets the manufactures recommend for similar buildings, then bought slightly bigger metal then they used to be safe. If then, the cost was lower. My water table is around 3-4ft parts of the year, so i was also worried about pole rot on the structure. I"m glad it took the time to do it that way. I hope you project goes well.

@@ABooneBuild yep. Same here with the water. I've dug holes a few feet deep only to watch then fill up with water. I'm hoping with the DC welder I have, even though rated for 3/8", that welding both sides will give enough penetration. Any comments or suggestions on that plan?

I’d go confirm this with professional welder but I believe if you make the right bevel, preheat the area, and have good root technique, the machine would handle it. I’d be more cornered if the machine was hitting the limits for welds with active loads, I.e. moving parts we the load move fairly quickly, aka cars, trailers, etc. also are you putting walls up? That would increase the strength needs.

I appreciate the feedback. Do you mean it’s poor sound quality or content?

On processing day, I put a piece of plywood down the center, so the all stayed near the door for easy access. Good think for dog protection. No predictor issues for us, but I’m guessing that because the were somewhat near the house and a place were people walked by regularly.

@@ABooneBuild We bought a Great Pyrenees dog and he’s been wonderful as far as predators. Enjoyed your videos!!

Awesome. I’ve almost only heard great things about those breads and glad it’s working for y’all. I did meet a lady once you got that breed and had them trained, but in the end, they started eating the chickens. I felt bad for her. Either way, thanks for the kind words and cheers to y’all’s success.

I agree, a fully covered coup would need a handle or rope to go along with dolly. I'm pretty sure Polyface dolly also needs a handle or rope. Joel and Polyface are awesome and a huge inspiration and source of knowledge. I probably would have never considered the movable design if it wasn't for them. Heavier would help prevent predators. We're on a smaller place, so we just don't have as many issues with that. Thanks for watching and making good points. cheers.

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I hope you had a good day and tomorrow is even better.

Thanks, appreciate that

I’m not sure but doubt they have

The pole barn is 30x50x12tall, the shop is 30x40

I think the next video (time lapse) has a graphic of the dimensions in the beginning

Thanks David, I can always use the help :)

Aermotor. They’re the most used ones I find, I’m guessing b/c they’re built a few hour away from us. Are there better ones? I’ve only just started to looking into it so always happy to learn more.

@@ABooneBuild They seem to be the best.

Cool, Thanks

Thank you! Will do!

Thanks @rain coast, I’ll check them out later this weekend. Cheers and happy new year