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Cool Wabash Trainmaster, I love the color. Sweet GG-1 too.

Great video. I really like your new GG1. It’s really sharp and I’m from Pennsylvania.

Really happy to hear you’re feeling better Dale . I enjoyed those new locomotives you showed us 🚂🚂🚂

I mark that your content could use better search engine optimization. Can’t wait to connect soon!

Nice collection! Ken

Nice surprise finding a Lionel. Brings the value up. Ken

Awesome challenge run👍👍

OUTSTANDING! I love FM Trainmasters especially from Williams! 🔥🔥🔥💪🙏👍❤️🇺🇸

Nice repair Dale. I have a small vise I use to hold the e-unit together during assembly. Makes it so much quicker and easier to get all the parts lined up. Have a great New Year!

i like the box openings keep them coming! real covered hoppers have those holes at each end. hobos like to hide in them.

Nice setup .Love all the detail the little city..

I know that band quite well....Pops was a jazz man

P.S. Black Santa Fe is rare, and happens to be the one I have. Was only available once

Those little K-Lines are awesome. I have one from the '80s my dad got me. Still runs fine

Wow. That little K line will really haul a lot of cars!

Just found your channel, Dale. I think I counted over 40 boxcars. 😎👍

Keep it up! I love your work.

Great run Dale.

I'll forever be indebted to you. The invaluable exposure you provide for guys like me is priceless. Thanks, and I wish you many blessings to you and yours this holiday season.

Wow, Dale, I certainly appreciate the kind shoutout about the Challenge and truly loved seeing your railroad! Man, you have done a lot of fantastic work on it. And your many trains of box cars, lol, I could not keep track of them all, are simply wonderful! I really found those Marx trains of box cars so charming. You put together a fabulous video for all of us and I am most appreciative of that. Thank you taking part in this year's Holiday Box Car Challenge. Dale, you can most definitely now proclaim, "Bill B., I did it in 2024! Merry Christmas and Happy New Holidays to you! Bill

Wonderful run Dale. I really enjoyed watching.

Awesome run! Subscribed!

Nice information! Just subscribed

I bought a 6-18300 (from 1987 ) Prr gold GG1 on Ebay. It came today and appears to have never run but I will have to do this same repair because the grease is so hard I can't spin the motors at all. Real good video Dale.

Curious to see if the paint trick works on the Menards buildings. I live em but they’re just too bright.

Very well done Dale. If you don't mind, I'm going to steal some of your ideas to build my shelves.

I see what you did there…

Just found your channel and subscribed. You have a very nice layout!

I have the same Marx diesel engine. Just tested it the other day. It has the same motor n a light! 😮

Great job showing the repair video.

Nice layout! Very fun to watch.👍

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Thanks Marco, my layout is totally conventional. This track plan is my third rendition. I built 2 other track plans before I settled on this one. Once the benchwork is complete, I recommend laying just your track plan before making any permanent installations, doing run sessions with as many different engine types you plan to run. While my first plan was an even better design in my head and on paper I quickly came to the conclusion it just wouldn't be practical with all my engines and the two-tier design would be something I could live with and will stand the test of time allowing me to run 5 lengthy loops in a confined space at once. My original plan had a grade along the back wall, and the elevated sections were interconnected with the lower loops. 0-gague eats up real-estate quickly and requires more space than I had to do the grades properly and still get everything else I wanted to include in the layout. I discovered that building a 0-scale layout involves compromises or a much bigger space than I had. A ladder yard works best if it is designed to be run on a completely flat surface without elevations, especially with steam switchers. The pilot on steam switchers have very little tolerances for even the slightest deviations. I settled on two separate elevated sections of 0-gague tubular Menards track without switches. I can run anything 0-42 on my upper loops. Even Marx fat wheeled motors, and they also serve as my test and break-in tracks. Restoration is one of the aspects of this hobby I enjoy doing, so having a break-in/test track was essential. My lower three loops are all interconnected with track switches, with each loop on a separate transformer supply, and I can run them as individual continous loops or switching operations between all three. My yard contains a reverse dog bone loop next to the Rico station and serves as a run around track to place cars on the main line with switchers and also allows most of my postwar engines to reverse direction. The lower outer main line loop has super elevated 0-42 curves, and I can run scale speeds or full throttle with a standard length consist on this loop. I use 1-ZW to control the upper two loops, track switches, lighting and accessories. 2-CW-80's, for the 2 outer main line loops, 1-1033 for the inner city/industrial loop, and 1-KW for the ceiling/storage track loop. My layout is wired from below with a bus wired system. I have multiple 2 wire taps about every 6' solidered directly to the tin track and my track joints solidered together to eliminate dead spots. All of my transformers are phased together using a single common ground terminated to a terminal strip and each U common from each transformer connected to the same common on the strip. Or if the transformers are all in the same location a single common wire from the terminal strip can be daisy chained between the U post of each transformer. A single common ground wire from the terminal strip runs along with each of the individual hot taps from each transformer. This saves a lot of wire eliminating ruining a common ground wire for each transformer and anything can be added anywhere at anytime on the layout, now and in the future, using a single short section of 2 wire feder from the track tapped to the wiring bus below. I used 16-gauge primary wire from Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards. It comes in different colored 30' rolls, which is pre-tinned and used for each transformer supply, ran under the center of the layout from one end of the layout to the other. I used 18-gauge speaker wire for the feeder supply taps to the track and accessories above. I used the blue crimp on wire taps for joining 18-14 gauge wire, commonly known as suitcases. I also advise using terminal strips and crimp on fork terminals. Investing in the proper tools will also go a long way to producing professional results when making terminations. I would invest in a pair of Ideal pliers #30-428 made for crimping both insulated and non-insulated terminals, and they also have built-in screw cutters for cutting common electrical screw sizes. They also have wire strippers but I never use them for striping wires. Actual wire strippers work much better for that purpose. Phasing the transformers together is essential for a common bus ground system. This also allows me to travel through track switches to the other loops supplied by different transformers. My loops are each a separate isolated block section. I have plastic track insulator pins installed in the hot center rail of the switches between each loop. Each loop is actually a separate loop only joined by the common pins of the track sections. My postwar ZW with a pure 60 hertz sign wave is phased with the Chopped sign wave of the electronic CW-80. I used the polarity of the CW-80 to establish the common ground and it just so happened to match the common ground of my ZW and KW transformers. All my common U posts between transformers matched. The exception was the 1033. If using the CW-80, it needs to be the version with corrected polarity. The first issues were sent out with reversed polarity. The transformers with corrected polarity have the capital letter G preceding the number on the bottom right corner of the underside of the transformer. If it has the letter G, it is factory wired correctly for the correct polarity. This is a big deal when phasing transformers together and having proper horn and bell sounds. Phasing a transformer with a CW-80 with the correct polarity is easy by directly connecting the hot post terminal of one transformer to the hot post terminal of the other and the U terminals of each together and turn each transformer on. If it's in phase the green light on the CW-80 wil be steady green if it's out of phsae, the green light will flash to indicate a short. To reverse phase, interchange by switching transformer leads between terminals, or if the supply plug on the transformer isn't polorized, unplug it and flip it over and plug it back in to reverse polarity at the wall oulet. I'm frugal and I find it helps to be a bit of a MacGyver and rely heavily on my imagination and God given talents to accomplish my goals. My objective was to use postwar elements combined with modern design and science techniques to model from some of my memories of my home town as a kid. I have control panels in 2 different locations so my city loop can be ran as a separate operation or can be ran by 2 separate operators together by utilizing the yard from the main line to send trains to the city/industrial branch line. Engines can travel between all three loops and change direction of travel in three separate loops or all three combined for one large continuous loop. My control panels are very simple. I made them like a wedge shaped box out of scrap 1x4 pine and 1/4" masonite. I bought piano hinge at Home Depot to have easy access to wire components and for storage of tools and smoke fluid. I have simple controls installled for my Lionel track switch controllers, single pole toggle switches I used to control block sections of track, and momentary pushbutton switches to control the control track sections for uncoupling/unloading. The advantages to three rail is it's easy to control different things by using insulated rail sections and insulated track pins. Each spur in my yard is controlled by a toggle switch by insulating the center rail and adding a separate track feeder from the switch to turn on or off a siding. I can actually control my engines sometimes by turning on and off the switch to change direction in the yard with a live engine sitting on the main all while using the same transformer power supply. Remember I only run conventionally so I have to use my imagination to make things work for me at minim expense. The tubular track is easy to make insulated outside rail sections along with insulated pins to control crossing signals, target signals, lighting, accessories, I use insulated rail sections to control a SPDT RIBMN12C. It's a 12vac/dc realy for the lights on my double track signal bridge. Target and signal bridges require a double pole single throw switch that require activating two different lights at the same time. I use the insulated outside rail as a single pole switch to power the SPDT relay wired from auxiliary transformer power. I installed the relays inside my control panel behind the controls. The contacts on this realy are dry contacts and can be powered by a separate power source from the realy which is an advantage that allows me to use auxiliary transformer power instead of variable track power to power the relay. I bought the relays on-line from Trainz. Lionel made a station that controls track for a street car from the station similar to what I think you're looking for that might have wiring diagrams you could use. I've seen a TH-cam video of it but I don't recall the OP. Maybe you could Google search Lionel automatic street car station. Good luck with your project. I find it helps to have a plan in mind to start with to get started like you have, but it helps to have an open mind to being flexible to make changes along the way, that seem to come up, to keep from getting stuck on an idea, and making mistakes is just part of the learning curve and the adventure is just part of the journey. Never underestimate that overcoming the obstacles is what makes it all worthwhile.

Dale, I love your layout, and it seems that you have a very robust electrical wiring to be able to run Conventional and DCS trains. From the comments that you did on @NixCrossing video. For the past six years I been collecting train sets, and buildings to do a New York subway theme. I have all the trusses need it for the two-story subway, ramp and stairway going up. I have all the three-rail track need it including different radius and most off the none derailing switches I need to order more from Ross, a Wye 22 degree. For trains I have One MTH Rail King R12 Subway set proto-sound 2 One MTH Rail King R42 Subway set proto-sound 1 One MTH Rail King Dash 9 Diesel locomotive Three GG1 Lionel 0ne Williams EP5 locomotive 70 trucks, Tank cars, flat carts, Hoppers, box, gondola, and caboose. Two ZW Two CW80 Two LW 2 rolls of 18G wire and 2 of 16G. same buss bar as Nick. The layout is going to be a four track. The biggest problem that I have is figure out how to make the switch panel and make stops in the loop for the R12 so you can hear the stop announcements. I see that you have a couple of panels one below the river and a larger one above the ZW. Dale I would like to see how you did your wiring for the panels or the product that you used. What do you use to run your trains, hardware, controllers, tablet, phone. Thank you again for all the information that you provided on @NixCrossing’s video Marco