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Ah that’s a good way of keeping the charcoal canister, I think mine was blocked or something was wrong with it as when it was I had a slight fuel smell which strangely has gone less since removing the canister. But if the smell comes back I might relocate it

It's just vapour, and you could smell it because the pipe literally vents in the wheel well, it's completely safe but a bit annoying. I "deleted" it on my NBFL because it looked ugly and i genuenly don't care about the smell, when i park my car i unscrew my fuel cap and release the pressure like that and it doesn't smell as bad

crime is not the case here, when you don't have EVAP, under temperature gas expands and shrinks, just like any liquid, what happens when pressure is too high or too low and fuel system is sealed? have you ever seen videos of cars spitting fuel thru fill hole? yeah, that's what happens, it can also happen when you overfill car and EVAP is drowned

You do realize that these charcoal canisters stop working after about 10 years tops? NAs are 30 years old now, the charcoal in these is not doing much, if anything at all by now :)

@@omgf0wtf it's actually good to know, maybe i should change mine EVAP since it's access is really easy

@@kotuu3 i have read somewhere that these charcoal canisters can be somehow reactivated but I’m not sure on the details

Fed

That would be a good idea. Originally i wanted to make a bracket using the mounting holes of the mirror but making the part would be too complex to make strong. 3D printing would be good when the pipe feels more loose but currently its still a snug fit.

They are 100% worth it, if you’re going for fast road/trackdays. Much better than the sportives I previously had

I was going to but doing some research, I found out that heat wrapping can lead to the headers corroding quicker.

I do need to back one day, Ill see if I can film while im there

they do have them but they’re often the first thing to go at least in california

@@miguelzavala4523 dumb question, which years had them?

It should be a oem item, they do get taken quickly when in scrapyards

I have been running with this for a while but I have replaced it with a new unit which should be a video coming out sometime soon.

It was a temporary fix which lasted longer then expected, glad it help.

@@zaincars did you find a permanent fix?

@@CarObsession I have replaced the HVAC unit with one i found cheap, which I've filmed a video for and should be out soon.

@@zaincars Ah ok 👌🏽

@@CarObsession I do have a spare HVAC unit if you want one

It’s for a mk1 but there is a mk2 equivalent called the gv lip mk2 and you should find something that would fit yours

Unfortunately not due to the low resistance of the leds you need a resistor not a relay for it to function correctly. You can try finding a resistor but a higher resistance is required

Hi it’s a oem spoiler found on the Japanese imports here in the uk

I found it on eBay search this up and you shoudl get something familiar: Air Flow Meter to 76mm Adapter for Mazda MX5 / Eunos Roadster 1.6l

I have to keep the seat more forwards then usual so I’m on the look out for something usable for sale to install

Duct tape has not failed me yet

Go for it!

I did not know that one day when I replace the front panel as this one looks worse for wear ill have a try at it.

@@zaincars I've done it; replaced the face of the HVAC panel which was getting kind of "melty" looking. I will say: watch those tiny screws that come with the control knobs. It's so easy to lose them.

Glad it was helpful!

They are!

Glad I could help hopefully it goes all well

So to set that up would be find a constant live for power in the fuse box I haven't tested it out personally as my battery isnt the best but from what I have seen nextbase dash cams do have good parking modes, hope this helps

No Problem, great to know it will help, good news is its holding up still now make sure to use some good tape

If your In the USA I would say hard dog would be a good bet, in the UK there are a few different styles you can go for. Some of them do cover up the place the latches would be and you would need brackets instead for the hardtop. Best of luck and I'm glad you enjoyed seeing the transformation with a roll bar

@@zaincars In the uk so have a few options just need to find one that hopefully won’t cover the latches so I can keep the hard top on cheers !

Have a look at GCFabircations GC1 and GC2 roll bars they should not cover the latches also be aware they have versions for glass and plastic soft top windows

Thanks for enjoying the video

Hey they way they have been wired makes them sidelights, I know there is an adaptor harness to make them into daytime running lights, hope this helps :)

Great Idea, I have noticed you can see between the lip and the bumper in certain angles. Im thinking when I take if off to paint it to use the tape to seal the gaps as well :)

Hey so you can go with silicone ones like I did (stoney racing) or you can go with the OEM ones, best place to get some ideas for your nb would be forums. Hope this helps

@@zaincars Tnx, i want oem but i cant find a full set, ill search for stoney racing

@@posfordtry carbon miata? Mine are holding up well

Yeah mine passed fine, as long as it is a sidelight and indicator it should be good

100% when the chance comes to clean it

Hey it was nice meeting you there hopefully you can get your sorted, if you need any help send me a message on insta

I will check this weekend, I assume they are fine as the resister is there just for the indicator and not for the sidelight.

Hey @aldenjohnregimbal I was able to check the zipties are still there and in good condition

Thank you for letting me know I didn’t know some years were not affected by this

In that case , just rewire the whole seat ?

So I assume you can rewire the plug underneath the seat which would be a lot easier or redo the connectors in the seat. Best to check how the audio comes from the speakers first to make sure they are wrong before rewiring, forums are your best friend for advice.

​@@jasongonzazlez4349when upgrading speakers it would be a good idea to redo wires in general. I plan on installing an amp, front speakers and maybe just 1 speaker / headrest? Idk depends if i find them cheap or not. But i will redo the wiring. Its 30 years old after all and the wires are tiny. I dont thing they could handle something like 60 watts rms

I did actually try a before and after the issue was the microphone was not picking up a difference so I could not include it unfortunately. I would recommend them if your replacing blown out ones like mine were as the sound quality is clearer then the oem ones but isn’t a step up more of a swap out. But if your installing them if your car doesn’t have any speakers I would recommend finding some small circular ones people retrofit into there. Hope this helps

Great to hear :) hope you have fun with your car and glad to hear these videos are useful. I do have a few more videos planned but haven’t got around to filming them yet, so stay tuned for them.

I will be taking the car to the dyno once I decat it in a future video. I do want to see if the torque curve has changed from stock. Thanks for watching the video too :)

So far I haven’t done a more permanent solution as I probably have to take more of the dash apart to see where else I could mount the wire. But this temporary solution is still holding up well for the time being.

@@zaincars Thank you. I appreciate the insight.

The main Issue is the mounting point would have to be reinstalled/ fabricated which I would want to get around to and would make a video for that sometime. Also thanks for watching

Hi www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303626834057 those are the ones I bought but as long as the connector to fit the bulb into the housing is the same any should work