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Mickey, It takes FOREVER. You can speed the process by pre filling the oil lines. I would do this regardless just to save wear and tear on the starter. But to check the oiler, remove one of the lines at the oiler and crank it. You should see a small amount dribble out. There is also an air escape bolt that can be loosened on the oiler that helps get the air out by gravity pulling the oil down into the oiler when it’s loosened. When oil starts seeping out tighten it back then reinstall the oil lines making sure they are full of oil. You could actually crank the ski and let it idle while dripping oil down the intake; this would would speed it up too, but you would need it trailered and in water.

First I would bypass the LR-503 module to eliminate it as the culprit. Once you find the culprit, then put a known good 503 on it. Test the stator first, this is where all the magic initiates. If stator tests good, then check CPS, then TPS. If all three tests good. Then it’s possible that the EMM is the culprit.

I only work on skis that I purchase. Greenhulk is the best source of knowledge on these skis. I did hundreds of hours of reading and research from that site to learn how to work on these skis

I’m not sure which one is correct

I’ve never purchased a rebuilt kit. I’ve always had an extra ski or engine on the shelf to rob parts from. I do know that even though an MXS and Genesis share the same DI, displacement and a majority of parts; the cylinder heads are different. The MSX has a special coating on the cylinder walls. I’m sure 99% of the parts are interchangeable.

Michael, The screen stays on all the time, but does go into sleep mode after 5min. But even in sleep mode the screen still reads the time and looks like it’s on but it’s draining very little battery power. The “low oil” flashes because momentarily the oil gets pushed to the front of the reservoir during a hard turn; and is nothing to be worried about. As long as you have to add oil every three tanks of fuel the pump is working properly. If the ski is running the EMM is good

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 let me give you the run down this ski flooded 5 yrs ago tied down to dock it sit I drained water rebuilt cylinders and got it running great motor wise .. as far as I can tell the screen never shuts off not even 30 minutes later .. I have blown out every connection on it with compressed air .. sometimes I try to crank it and it cranks but sometimes I have to push reset cause after pushing start button it blank screens .. reset and try again eventually it starts and then runs fine .. do you think I may have some type of issue that don’t allow a fire up everytime or is it possible a emm issue.? The ski held water 3 days and was drained sit five years and now it can run .. so the starting side of it maybe a thing or screen on full time I’m not sure what you think

YT won’t let me post my phone number to have you call me.

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 I see they’re extra slick on that that .. what bout email

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 so do you think this is two seperate issues with the starter and screen blanking out with it seeming like it’s screen is staying on ? Or should I be looking at a certain video to help figure this issue out ?

You can send an EMM to Darrin Wiess at Lakeside tech. lakesidetech.biz/

@oldpathsoutdoors8223 I have a 2002 polaris genesis. Would it be possible to get contact information to be able to run some stuff by you?

@@martinflores3804 Sure!

770, six,eight, seven, 1531

Text me first and I’ll call you to help any way I can.

Jason, I don’t typically repair other people’s skis. I don’t like being under the pressure of working on someone else’s ski. If I buy one and take my time working on it it’s relaxing therapeutic (most of the time) and enjoyable. I’ve never felt that working on someone else’s ski.

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 totally understand that! My son is 12 and we tinker with stuff. We have really started to like to mess with skis so I get that to. Thanks for the videos!

So the plug wires are all the same length, and the coils are the same of course; the small wires coming from the wiring harness are ones in sequence. The one coming off of the harness first goes to the first cylinder and so on. Someone may have rerouted that wiring harness. You’ll have to look at the Polaris Shop manual online to get the schematic and routing order. I’ve not worked on a 2000 yet but if the EMM is located in the rear near the battery the PTO cylinder will be the first in order, then center, then MAG (front cylinder). And the harness will be ran from the rear starboard side over to the Port side, then up behind the water intake manifold between it and the cylinder head and the leads will come out under the water manifold and into each coil in order.

I ended up buying a fuel pressure gauge. I am getting just over 20. I ended pulling out the gas tank. (Not fun on the Virage) and the regulator was intact and where it should be. I even put voltage to the fuel pump to make sure it was working. Should my fuel pressure be at 20? I cannot see how the TPS went bad. It still looks new. Thanks

@@ernrodri2mine is at like 19. I can’t get it to start even with mixed gas in air intake

I replaced stator and magnets, spark plug tester lights up, fuel pressure is at 19-20 while cranking, it does not start even with mixed gas in air intake… any ideas? I get fuel spraying out of injectors but when I remove cylinder top with injectors on it, no fuel spraying out of it

@@andreasgeuter9093 ​​⁠ So, three things are required for any engine to run. 1. Spark, 2. Fuel, 3. Compression. You said spark was present, and you introduced fuel to the intake; that only leaves compression as the culprit. To properly diagnose a ski, you need to have a voltmeter to make sure you are getting ENOUGH voltage to the spark plugs. A weak spark will not be sufficient for a direct injection ski to run. I would suggest reading everything that is on the web on direct injection Polaris skis, and download a PDF repair/service manual on your model ski.

What bothers me is the ski idled for me and then I changed the stator. Does the stator play any part in idling? The new stator is working because I metered it while I was reving the engine and saw the change in voltage.

Your battery should be fine. I don’t think exact size is as important as AGM. Yours is still a powersports battery

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 My fuel injected virage starts and revs but then immediately dies. Doesn’t idle. I know it can be a few different things. If it was a fuel issue then I’m thinking it shouldn’t rev up. I tested compression and it’s good. I’m a little stumped at this point. Thanks.

I’d definitely do a fuel pressure test first. You can use a tire pressure gauge in a pinch (the one that has the dial) or an old compression tester. It should read 20psi cranking and running. If it doesn’t then take some pliers and pinch the fuel line going back into the tank (the one with shrader valve on it. If it has pressure while cranking when pinched then the fuel pressure regulator has fell off. That should be properly secured regardless. If it’s not a fuel issue I’d then look into the TPS as the suspect.

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 I really appreciate letting me pick your brain. I bought this ski broken and thought, how hard could it be? Well it has been a project. I've learned a lot about this ski. The TPS still looks brand new. How would I test it? I do have a very dumb question. I didn't think it would be hard to find the spark plugs for this ski. (NKG PZFR6H). I went to O'reilly auto parts and they sold me an "equivalent" spark plug. I shouldn't of done this. Could having the incorrect spark plugs cause it to not idle but still fire up? Again, I appreciate your help.

It’s hard to test a TPS without the right equipment. I normally have a couple on the shelf to test with.

1. It didn’t “die” I shut it off quickly because it was not in water. 2. The guy I sold it to for $2500 test ran it on water prior to purchase and it ran well.

I used regular sea foam, i took the fuel line loose and put non diluted sea foam in the line so that it would concentrate in the carburetor. The oiler was still hooked up so it was already getting oil. Then i put the rest of the can in the fuel tank after syphoning the tank and filling it with fresh non ethanol. I could tell within 30 seconds of it running after the cloud of white smoke cleared that it had successfully cleaned the carburetor and it started running better. It even run better after the next tank of fuel was put in it.

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 Appreciate your quick response! Ill try this and see how it is.

Thanks! You are correct that not many people know how to work on them! I spent hours upon hours on the net and searching through Polaris manuals trying to figure out how to work on them.

My advice is to anyone owning a Polaris ski is go to “Greenhulk.net” an online forum and read everything concerning the ski you have on that site. Before anyone can help we would need to know: Year? Carburetor or Injection? Any known prior problems? What the current problems are? Have all the normal required updates been done for that model? If so, which ones? Answer these questions and we can try to help.

@oldpathsoutdoors8223 Thank you for getting back with me, I'll go to the forum and see what I can learn about polaris skis, both fuel injected both defiantly need new fuel lines, they are 2001 skis, most likely going to need a few parts line fuel sensors and computer, I bought them used with one not running , it asks like the the one you had un the video with fuel issues and then it seem to turn I to a computer issue shortly after

1. Do the recommended fuel pressure regulator repair on it. I have a video on that repair. A fuel pressure gauge can tell if you have proper pressure. 2. Make sure it has a good working TPS 3. Do a volt, and ohms test on the stator, coils and wires. 4. A bad display can cause a no spark issue. 5. Computer (EMM) may be suspect if the above checks out. The good thing is you have two skis you can swap parts on to diagnose both skis.

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 Thanks . Yes the two skis are one number off on the serial numbers , you have been awesome with these isssues

You are very welcome!

I am. I just picked up another Genesis yesterday and am about to sell the two in this video before I start working on this one. I’m in Wedowee AL

Thanks! The Genesis I’m working on now has NO fuel in the tank and won’t till everything is complete and ready to fire up (no pun intended 😂). Every time I’ve used a heat gun or propane torch I still get nervous.

I’ll try to upload the burnt ski tonight

The burnt ski video is up

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 thanks for letting me know!! You got a good memory.

Im about to upload another video of my latest Genesis. I just sold the ski that I cranked in this video for $2500. Just picked one up for $500 on a trailer last weekend and already have it running.

Wow! How much does running skis in the early 2000’s year models on a trailer sell for up there?

⁠@@oldpathsoutdoors82233k-6k

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223I’m in WA state and I got a 99 Polaris SLTH 700 with a nice karavan trailer for $1200 total. However the guy lied about it just needing a battery and I found one of the pistons was cracked.

I try to stick to the Polaris for now. Unless one fell in my lap I wouldn’t be interested in one. Have you tried to find videos on that kind of ski yet? There is a lot of information on greenhulk.net as well

@@oldpathsoutdoors8223 fingers crossed one lands in your lap, I have three of these motors, two in an exciter 270 hp jet boat and a 1999 gp1200 jet ski, so it’s a selfish request, there was another guy shady tree jet ski on TH-cam but he stopped making videos, he shared a lot of great troubleshooting tips

You are very welcome!

I believe it is the same Ficht EMM in the Kawasaki as well as some 2stroke outboard boat engines. Darrin Weiss at Lakeside Tech is who repairs these computers (EMM) lakesidetech.biz/

You are very welcome!

It blew out at 10k miles and I JB welded it back in again. Eventually I’ll have to have the head removed and have it repaired correctly but it’s getting me by till then. The problem is the threads are gone that are supposed to hold the insert in, and that’s the biggest insert made.

On the first application I did put red locktite on the insert and thought I torqued it properly. I assume I did do something wrong. The problem is the threads are gone that are supposed to hold the insert in. The proper fix now is a head removal