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Dumb ass

Is the resistance supposed to change continuously without blips as the flap is opened??

Wheres your idle solenoid? Do 85's have one?

With key at on, but the engine not running: at rest (idle) meter should read about 1.5V, push to open meter should read about 6.5 V, (I added a 2.2uf cap across pin 2 and 3, this smooths out the hiccups. )

Your vacumn lines are not properly hooked up to the correct locations. Should have taken pictures of all the lines before messing with it.

this afm is busted, reading should be constant without hiccups along the way

Did anyone find a fix for this issue?

try a known good distro or diag/replace a adv/ret can (suck on the vac hose to see if it moves the distro mechanism). you may have a leaky can or retarding too much to keep the engine running. i take it this is a 1.9L per year listed and the coolant hoses. adjust your timing first, all in with everything connected to 35-40 deg depending on your altitude (forget bentley procedure), then your throttle idle screw. check the TPS switches/adjust if needed. let us know if its solved. i know its an old thread. DO NOT use a 009

i just notice your distributor is turned all the way clockwise to about 60+ deg advance. Way too much advance and why it dies when you open the throttle. You should adjust timing at full advance 35-38 Deg@ 3000 rpm. Then use the throttle screw to adjust the idle speed.

Where does the different wires and cables connect coming from the battery? could you post a photo?

Did you have any joy getting this problem solved in the end?

Did you try the throttle position switch?

I would change the distributor for a one that doesn't use vacuum air .

Walter, Did you ever get this solved? My van also dies when i turn the throttle, i think it may be a bad hall sender but i am not sure at this stage. Let us know how you (hopefully) fixed this :)

Also second Donald's question. Ever get this worked out? And how?

Nice to see someone else struggling to get the van running like it should. By the way, noticed your hose going into the top hole on the s-boot. I just found out a month ago that there is a ridge on the plastic piece that goes into the s-boot and a matching recess on the inside of the s-boot. It was quite difficult but that plastic piece snaps into the s-boot and is a pretty tight fit afterwards. No more working it's way out or loose. If this is old news please ignore:)

timing not 100%, whats the compresion on the cylinders? worn oxygen sensors n worn out head temperature sensors? redo electrics by sottering all connections , lose plug together connections, all grounds 100% clean, try a 45000 volt nology or pertronics coil electronic ignition n cables, every detail = a more reliable runner

Did you ever get any help with this? And what did you do to fix it?