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Would love to discuss building one to purchase

Good morning! I'm new to reloading and have a few questions , if you have time to answer I'd really appreciate it. I'm shooting a 22 creedmoor with 80 grain Berger vld bullets. I did an optimal charge test @ .010 off the lands being that I'm using a vld. Now I'm going to work with seating depth. Do you think I should have started with .020 off the lands like you perform your test or is 10 off good because of the vld. I plan on doing the seating depth test at 10 in, touching out to 30 off. Do you think that vld shoot good? Farther than 30 off? test

I hear the cyelee optic comes pre zeroed at 25 yards

Can you please tell me name of plastic box where you storage jags and patches?

Another great vid mate, thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience with us and I know it is very much appreciated, I don’t think there is another channel out there that puts in the time and effort to answer our question as much as you do so again thank you very much mate, take care and all the best to you and your family, cheers Yogi Australia 🇦🇺✌️

Awesome stuff mate, much appreciated appreciated, cheers Yogi ✌️🇦🇺

Great series mate with great info thanks buddy, cheers Yogi Yogi ✌️

I’m totally new to all this so thank you very much for doing this series, so far it’s great and you explain things in a way that is easy to understand which help big time, will be definitely watching the whole lot, take care and all the best, cheers Yogi ✌️🇦🇺

Twp points.....I NEVER buy patches. I cut my own and only from pure cotton. I found some baby sheets in a thrift store and after checking the tag (always) I happened to buy pure Portuguese cotton. Know what a "cigarette roll" parachute malfunction is?. It happens when nylon gets twisted under tremendous pressure and friction and the stuff melts together. Any synthetic will do this and many patches are made from factory garment scraps sold by the ton. Enough synthetic content and there is a possibility of getting a patch that will give trouble. Not for short barrels like pistols but long, slick barrels and over-tight patches can melt the patch into the bore and the barrel will never be the same, if the patch comes out at all. Second: I never buy the super-gun oils unless I know for sure they are good for 400 degrees farenheit and forty below zero. I knew a few German soldiers who fought on the eastern front and they told me the weapons they could ALWAYS rely on were pistols as these were kept inside next to their shirt and not outside like machine guns and rifles where they often froze. I use 0-w 10 Mobil 1 and red sticky aircraft grease. Both tested for 40 below. Makes a Garand run good.

Best video I've seen on this o far. Thanks.

Great series! I’m rewatching your reloading series and about to switch to wet tumbling from my ultrasonic cleaner. I appreciate your thoroughness and added detail. Since I use an SAC bushing/mandrel die I may use graphite for seating if wet tumbling removes more carbon than my current technique. P.S. I’m still loving the rifles you built me.

Well it's been a year now since I posted any comments so to bring you up-to-date on the 2 Pristine Actions I bought so far I have replaced 2 bolt handles and just ordered a new bolt for one of the actions. The problem with the bolt handles are they are made from cast iron and have a set screw located in the bend of the handle which reduces the strength tremendously. Both times the handle broke right at the bend. I notice most premier actions mill their bolt handles out of one piece of metal with no set screw. The bolt is being replaced as the set screw broke off and part of it is lodged into the hole and is to small and to hard to tap out. A machinist tried and damaged the firing pin set up where the handle lodges into. Bottom line if you don't use your rifles much and want to support Canadian manufacturers buy one otherwise shop someplace else. Make sure when you buy the bolt handle it is machined from one piece of hard metal; USA metal not Chinese metal :)

I think that your explanation of your testing is very spot on. I shoot similar to you. 100 yd 500 yd. With 300 win mag custom by Hart. I neck size and fire form. All my brass. Gauge my overall lengths for no bullet jump. For recreational shooting. At moderate ranges with a good rest and rear bag. Weighing primers and cases may possibly improve some accuracy for serious competition. But for the type of shooting that you explained and I do it's negligible if any improvement. Just use some good brass Norma or lupa and the case variances are going to be next to nothing to begin with

Great information but I have one question. When you discuss 'breaking in' the barrel by just using your first sighting in process as the break in. Should you (or do you need to) clean the barrel before the very first shot is put through it?

This is beautiful. Are you by chance looking for an apprentice?

I have come to nearly identical conclusions after years of trial and error. Good job on the video and thank you for intelligently disseminating solid information to the shooting community.

You have the best equipment on the market. I loved your video. You are very knowledgeable. I load almost the exactly how you do. Some of my equipment is different but the same process. There are so many guys that should not have a video camera.

Could you provide the name of the brake you’re using here? Looked on Harrels website and couldn’t find it.

The very best explanation of the tuner principle I have come across !! Well done...

Sage Green AXSAs are 33% more accurate than the tan and Dark Earth and Black ones.

How many grains of powder are you pushing with retumbo and the Berger 245?

Great stuff. Thanks for braving the cold for us. Earned a like and subscribe. 👍

Straightforward brief 👍love the info

I'm annealing and mandrel sizing after I use a full length sizer die with expander ball removed. Do I still need to get a neck sizing die? Or is that just chasing the extra little bit?

KG-12 Copper Solvent.

I emailed Mr Lucas late in 2023 and he made me a bire guide for my Aero Solus action in 6 GT.

SKIP Boretech Eliminator, it's trying to do 2 things well at once. CLP people like this idea but it's compromising time and effort. Boretech Carbon Remover is amazing, I switch with Boretch Copper Remover and back and forth till clean.

I have a couple of those same bore guides my father passed down to me when he passed, I wondered who made them.. I have one for 6br and 6.5x284 so I guess I'm set for life! Lol

I don't think i would take a lab-radar if someone gave me one.

Fair assessment. I had an issue (1-1.5”) and had about given up on a rifle. Load D, various factory, nothing worked. I wondered if the smith’s equipment was off. Shoots fantastic now (to me). .25 to under .5 depending on fouling. For my PRS purpose that’s great for me.

how much variance to you see round to round in your seating depth? In the video, the second round ended up 1 thousandth short. Is this normal? What kind of variance is acceptable to you?

What kind of improvements have you seen from uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes? It's not something I've done yet and I'm interested in understanding what it will improve. I'm assuming it will result in lower velocity spread, but I'd like to be sure.

Great video. I would love to see a video of the things that Are "worth the squeeze" as you put it. Steps, tools, or habits that made the most difference in getting consistent reloads.

You don't check to see if you need to lap your rings?

👍🏻👍🏻

Fantastic! Well done!

This is a great and sensible video. You brought up some thing that I hadn’t thought of. My brand new high dollar barrel kept showing blue after about 60 patches using the tech copper remover. Never dawned on me that my brass brush or rather jag was saturating through, and it wasn’t coming from my barrel, but from my jag. Good call.

Well done, exactly how I do it now! I mean exactly…. Very good

Thanks for the video. Its concerning that your OCW tests are 20 thou off the lands, but you start your seating tests with touching the lands. This will increase pressure; not a good thing if your OCW loads are hot or have I misunderstood something? Cheers

I know it is an old video but this is probably the 5th time I have watched it. Every time I end up buying something new to make my accuracy better. This time I have to ask a question. I use Hornaday brass because it is easier to find loaded and unloaded. I also use redding type s dies. Since the brass is not uniformed on the neck I am going to get the mandrel and start sizing that way instead of the bushing. Question is I have been using a .289 bushing for roughly .002 neck tension based on average brass thickness. Would you go to a .288 or .287 because of the inconsistency of the brass? The reason I ask is because KM website says I should go down .007 and expand back up. You say go down .003 and go back up to .002

I assume your copper solvents don’t contain ammonia? And what carbon fouling solvent to you find is the best ?

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Bloody nice work. So nice to see a rifle bedded properly rather than just dropped in a chassis.

Do you shoot them before you send them out? Do yo guarantee any level of accuracy performance????

I don’t do recoil very well anymore. Even with that big brake and pad, that rifle scares me. Pushing 72 glad I don’t need to prove macho anymore.

Man, that's an incredible rifle! 9.5 pounds for a 338 Lapua AI? The color scheme reminded me of a Coral snake.

Like everything about the gun except the color. (is it Halloween)

Awesome rig Shawn!!

i ordered a triggertech special for my solus aswell, only thing is its the version with the bolt release button. I know the solus has the built in button for bolt release. Will it work?

what about short mag. to way deep ojive