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Love your style 👍 I have very similar issue's was a bit daunted about taking it off ... however I'm buying a Turkey Baster tomorrow and copying you ... will be saving here in the UK 🇬🇧 around £120 for replacement ... does not include labour @ about £90 per hr ... Thanks 😎

Thanks for this!

So glad I found your video. My F150 has the same dash as yours. All the other videos show different dash options. Now I know where all the lil bolts are. About to eliminate the little person in my dash that keeps knock knock knocking to get out

I have a 2007 3.7 5 Cylinder, I'm poor OK! I can't just throw parts at this thing. 😅 I get a p0300 only in cold wearher. I think it may be this, I've put my Zurich zr11s on it, and it is pretty pointless, I have been out if work for 3 months just started work again 3 weeks ago, now this. Spark plugs was changed a year ago, coil packs also, charcoal canisters, purge valve. Ait filter last month, oil yesterday. Idk whatbit is causing this but I have been a Ford man my whole life, I only bought this truck during covid, and sold my good reliable 1995 F150, stupid mistake ever, Idc what yall say Levy is junk compared to Fords.

Grind a X on the top. Then peel it off with a chisel

14:30 marking for my future fight with mine!

Teflon tape gets wrapped same direction as a nut would go on, relieve pressure by turning off supply water then open expansion tank drain valve (old style) or by Schraeder valve if newer bladder type or open boiler drain valve a little or lift lever on over pressure valve until pressure gauge shows zero, then replace your bleeder, ps ,they can be repaired, take top cap off, clean with soapy water, rinse, spray inside with silicone spray reassemble check by blowing in bottom with bleeder upright air should come out top, do same with bleeder upside down, no air should flow.

Thank you! Wish I would have seen this before taking bad advice from half a dozen others. 350K CRV back on the road thanks to this video.

Shit the ones from autozone duralast brand has no screen clip’s whatsoever. I looked at 3 units from 2 different stores. No screen clamps.

I didn’t see any stuck tie rod end tips

Might just replace this in my truck.

F#@k the consumer!!

It's all cheap ass American JUNK!!!!!

I sprayed WD-40 penetration waited few hours and metal pipe for leverage.

Getting conflict on p/n bl3z-7B028-a, says it doesn’t fit my 13 f150 with 3.5,

I just did this fix on my truck yesterday 10/24/2024. Here are my key takeaways that may help others. Most of which is covered in this video and comments but I will add current pricing and my parts numbers and other info. I would agree with other comments that for another $100, get the two tubes that run from the radiator to the quick connects. Truck: 2014 Ford F-150 XLT V8 5L with the 6R80 6 speed automatic transmission. I have a single radiator without the small aux radiator in front of it. Parts: I had to get parts from my local Ford Dealership as nobody had the parts I needed fast enough, especially the upper tube for my truck. 1. CL3Z-7R081-A ($183.33). This is the Transmission Oil Cooler lines that run from the quick connects to the transmission. 2. 9L3Z - 7B028-F ($57.17). This is the lower tube that hooks into the lower side of the radiator and to the transmission oil cooler lines. It will be obvious which line to connect it to. They have a mark on the rubber part of the hose that connects to the radiator to show you where to place the included clamp. 3. 9L3Z-7B028-H ($47.33). This is the upper tube that hooks into the lower side of the radiator and to the transmission oil cooler lines. It will be obvious which line to connect it to. They have a mark on the rubber part of the hose that connects to the radiator to show you where to place the included clamp. XT-10-QLVC ($8.89 per quart) - Mercon LV Automatic Transmission Fluid. I don't have a nice Hydraulic lift, so I did this with a jack and some jack stands and wheel chocks. This means that I did not disconnect the sway bar or drop the axle down, I left those alone. I did remove the front lower bumper piece (not sure the name) so that I had more room to get under the front of the engine. I used standard sockets and wrenches to do the job, no fancy tools. I was still able to get the old lines out and the new lines in without much struggle. This was because in both cases I bent the front bracket that secures the lines to the front of the engine so that the bracket would not snag on everything. Here is what I did and some notes: 1. Cut the old rubber tubes from the transmission cooler lines and let drain into pan and remove the upper and lower tubes from the radiator (easy). Nothing came out of these tubes since I had already cut the ends near the disconnect and they had already drained. 2. unbolt the old transmission lines at all points listed in the video (brackets and the transmission itself). For the bracket that attaches the transmission lines to the front of the engine, I bent the bracket so it was almost flush with the lines themselves. This made it so much easier removing them. I of course I removed the lines towards the back of the truck. 3. When I routed the new lines, I also bent the front bracket that secures it to the front of the engine. One mistake I made is that bent the bracket the wrong way and found that out after I had secured the back of the lines to the transmission. Make sure if you bend the front bracket, that you bend it towards the front of the truck so you will have room to bent it back up to secure it to the engine. This will still be tricky to bend it back up since it is hard to get at but still to me worth not doing the other stuff to get the new lines in. I pulled the old bracket off the old lines and reused it to hold the new lines in place. Not the best but I was not about to take the lines our of the transmission again. 4. I secured the lines to the front tubes with the quick connects and all of the parts where installed. 5. Since the access point to getting Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) into the transmission is on top of the pan, I purchased a $25 fluid transfer tool from a parts store. It simple sucks out of one side of the tube and pushed out of the other. The kit I bought has a smaller tube as well, and this came in handy because I put too much fluid it from not letting the engine warm up enough. The ATF expands so you can't check it could, but I also recommend letting the engine get up to a nice temperature. I of course burnt my hand on the Cat which is located right next to where you have to get at the little ATF dipstick. Maybe because I was tired at this pint, but this seems to be the worse part for me. I filled the ATF after removed the truck off the jack stand so it was as flat as possible. Hope this helps somebody :)

Nice steering wheel...who makes that?

This guy is a nut, if you can help ppl just get to the point. Clowning around isn't a way to get ppl to watch

Do you never use a file or a grinding wheel to champher them sticky edges. hahaha.

Thanks a lot for a great video , it was very helpful. I feel that I can do it myself and save a ton of money. Thanks again!!!

PB blaster is absolute junk

Good Luck @ ThanksGiving....a Hypo from Ace also works...OH OH...Wife's Vintage Towel....

Loose heat shields! Hose clamps, bailing wire and a few extra bolts and screws. My 07 Outback still has a bit of a rattle at startup but after it warms up it goes away.

So I did everything in this video and it’s still not working. I tried even switching the switches between my driver side door(which is the one that doesn’t work) and the passenger door(which works) and still only the passenger door works which rules out it just being a bad switch so I’m wondering what else it could be like maybe a wiring problem or a bad fuse?

I love my colorado i bought from my dad, only had 120k miles on it when he sold it too me, i plan on rebuilding the engine at some point but he changed the oil regularly, only issue is all the other parts are real old and are starting to need replacement. I love the first gen colorado, it looks far better than the new ones in my opinion. Ive seen some custom ones that look pretty nice but theres just something about these older colorados that look amazing, especially with a 4 or 6 inch lift.

What's the size of the jack bolts u are using

Very good video, my only comment is, when I use the brake cleaner spray, I hold my breath, you don't want to breath the fumes, then pull away to breath and let the stuff dry before going back there. The video is very good on jack safety.

Well done video. I’ve got a 1977 case 444 with bad back rims. I’ll use some of your technique when I get to doing them

Need to have truck on floor to unlock the lug nuts then after cracked loose then jack up cause you allow too much play on the tire and it spins like you did in the start of video

I have a 2002 acura tl types, all i was planning on doing was replacing rear rotors, but my issue is with the rust, I broke free, the emergency brake is disengaged but is engaged on both sides and i cannot get it to disengage, idk how to fix this to just get the rotors off I dont even care about having working park brake or not, if you have any suggestions pls help

Thanks for a great video!

Can it be stuck in lukewarm? My dash was clicking super loud the other day and i got a new one of these, now i definitely don't have heat and isnt really cold EITHER. Its not clicking though. God that was annoying.

For anyone about to do this job, I would suggest just buying the two lines that connect to the oil cooler/quick connect lines...! It will save you hours of trying to disconnect those rusty quick connect lines. They are probably rusty anyways and it takes minutes to replace the two

It's ok if you just stop the small talk

When you pulled out the plug, I swear I heard you say "Perfect, no mess!, Excellent!" but when you slid your drain pan over to reinstall the plug, there was quite a bit of oil on the floor... Hat Trick even slipped in it... What happened???

Thank you so much for this video. My 2005. Needs this done. I was having a panic attack. Looking for the fill hole and drain plug. My girl has 333000 kms on it now and she is standard.

So, one should be able to check that pcv nipple on the i5 at spark plug replacement time? I plan to be in there soon for new plugs at 300,000 miles, like I did for 100,000 and 200,000. I may pour a little Berrymans in there for good measure, too. I replaced the throttle body at 235,000 miles. Good trucks.

Awesome 😎

Thanks for your time in making such a thorough video.

What would you do if the steel nut sheered off, which is what has happened to me

You would think a company that has been making cars for 121 years would get it right by now. Just went through the same thing on my lincoln, Ford is absolutely pathetic. I had a pontiac Grand prix 2000 model never had trouble with lugs.

Dudes pretty badass

Nice job, the video was put together very well, but since I'm not a male 😂😂, I'll bring my 06 Hyundai SantaFe over for you to work your magic.😅

Perserverance extreme !

A cheap plastic strikes again... Could they have just added an O ring at the factory?

That's so much better than drilling a small hole, which helps but doesn’t fix the problem

Your the best man. Info with a bit of man humor!

great video

Thank you very much for your video it helped a lot especially I have no any experience with this kind of machine 🙏🎈😄👍😎🤞

Wow you made a easy job so much harder then it really it 🤣