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Glad it helped

Great to hear!

The bearing and seal driver kit i got from princess auto if you are in canada. USA equivalent i believe is harbour frate. but i don't see it there anymore. mine are hard nylon but an aluminum kit will probably do very well. i'm assuming the cheaper the kit the softer the alluminum will be so longgevity will suffer. here are a couple links, www.princessauto.com/en/7-pc-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set/product/PA0009143587 www.princessauto.com/en/10-pc-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set/product/PA0009143561 www.princessauto.com/en/bearing-race-and-seal-driver/product/PA0002918514 www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Tech-Installer-Installation/dp/B07DC31TB3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3UO47MN4TXB0Z&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.d9K9mavU26JAM2zAej90Z4O8U8e4CXA7o7HXeUpuGNpedU25rhz-aTItcfCVMux9PeqKkhMX8iWo-hd_5CTRpCHsf3IdiW5xYb6jX-cpkD1LfuQHQrFRcyRnqevyR6E-4va4ptpRj4EeQ_5yVFhjtxvXLjHMGSxFZbhbGTAZ8LM-GkueZ8YrOnDPvgus8SniquY-xBiRXt0ltkKP-WU2jCzU7CvuUCUk6MB1_l45eLYoVG33V6KV_y7QVO_6oOHcwVvlqLBqrI7DoTlg75G0iEKUQDuOoDFrPdz2exN1nIc.tYPjaTb2DF2bq5JLlhEqljwmTIMx_G3NYeZjk2vAI04&dib_tag=se&keywords=bearing+and+seal+driver+kit&qid=1725083311&sprefix=bearing+and+seal+driver%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 The blind hole bearing puller i got at princess auto as well. www.princessauto.com/en/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller/product/PA0009143793 An Amazon equivalent. www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Extractor-Automotive-Motorcycle-Motorbike/dp/B0B54SX2BY/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2IXJAM8WH4O97&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZD_cGudKRECCZct9buOoVZLaRaUL5nuFQQrID8_-UutRZnBxEOvIYvHiKKiPfNKJ5d0aQgFS_jAAlUohzQ5UTwjnR4MFXW8FFSi8iNL6bpn-C11-cCgJZWd7qlJKzJQ14wHsnSgOc7lKUqefCE8_lk51WEzI5IQ-jwxWSrwoj84LB1k60b3Tp_QBk58EYhHcRKItM6JHk7PSCx7akpl7UzYJm78nizdZ0CqLTIsriTDeQLpmPJs5PnB7IajHNHaz3pYBt7SQ_ScpDX-cWICkoDhRCL73PqMbDjshXX1Ee04.ebDv1rNPoWCVzU3vi-q7Ga1KHgW5YhoYZ3zk61dDnCw&dib_tag=se&keywords=3+jaw+bearing+puller&qid=1725083675&sprefix=3+jaw+bearing+puller%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-7 hope this helps!!!

thanks so much for your help! you cover so much detail, so if i forget which bolt goes were i can replay the video ;) i would of gave up on so many steps but your videos gave me the persistence to press forward thanks for the links as well ;)

Glad it helped

@@cameronlambert5496 part 6 might have what you are looking for. Among all the vidio parts i touch on every part in the housing. The pinion yoke to memory is the coupler. That has a internal seal and brass bushing. Than the sliding colar that the actuator moves. Than a ball bearing on the pinion shaft. And than in the pinion yoke is a needle bearing that the far end of the pinion rides inside. There are some shims to lokate the pinion to the ring gear.

yeah the coupler is what I'm trying to get free. it's like it welded to the shaft or maybe got jammed on when someone hit something. it won't budge. doesn't make sense if it's just a brass bushing and a seal.

@@cameronlambert5496 could be that the pinion shaft got bent. The brass bushing is more of a sleeve. Not a very thick bushing. It is also split on an angle. Might need to sacrafice the collar and use a press. But than if the shaft is bent. Non of it is likly recoverable for re-use.

@thestuffwedowithron1768 yeah so I ended up getting a parts machine that's a 03. so I had a couple welds left on the coupling and started beating on it with a pry bar. it came off finally with the shaft inside it still. but in 03 there is a oil hole which feeds the brass bushing the 02 doesn't seem to have that. I've yet to press it out to compare more but thinking it may have been a known problem in 02 hense why the 03 coupling has an oil hole to feed the shaft.

I pressed it out. if anyone has a 2002 prairie and the coupling doesn't slide out it welds to the shaft. mine only has 1800 miles. my parts machine is a 2003 and has a oil hole and brass bushing where the 2002 was only machined to have a inner seal.

First thought is the idle screw. Assuming it is all the way out. Check the plugs to see if it is burning rich or lean. Check valve lash. Check for air/fuel leaks. One culprit is the primer pump. The rubber does deteriorate. After that, you are into the carbs. Clean out all the jets and passages. Check the 2 diaphrams for cracks on each carb. There is one for the buterfly and a small one under a side cover. Make sure the choke plungers are moving well. Make sure the fuel bowl float is good. No fuel inside it. Check that the fuel bowl valve isn't dried out and has a good. Seal.

Royal Distributing, www.royaldistributing.com/ca_en

really well. I don't get to do a lott of really hard trails as i mostly trail ride with my kid on a 300 brute force. but i have done some and they aren't chunking up like some do when climbing steep rocky trails. the rubber is quite plyable but not supper soft like a more dedicated mud tire normally is.

Thanks for subbing!

Glad to help

No trail pass, if camping you need the Alberta random camping pass. The area is trail managed so pick up a trail map at a kiosk or download Avenza maps and get the map for the area. they are free. The flats we were camped at is just east of the Allison Creek/Atlas flats area. We road the boundary of the Allison/Atlas camping/staging area. Both areas have gotten popular and more well known over the years so both seam to get very busy. You can ride both areas from whatever one you choose to stage at. www.alberta.ca/public-lands-camping-pass

Glad it helped

Thank You!

Most welcome

that's a great idea. I'm assuming you used the rope to bind up the pinion gear at the toothy side?

you can try this link. it is a direct PDF download and not mine so no warranty about quality or virus free. it's for the 750 but most things with the exception of anything changing the motor CC should be the same. quads.ddns.net/service-manuals/kawasaki/2005%20Kawasaki%20KVF%20750%20Brute%20Force%20Service%20Manual.pdf

thank you looks good @@thestuffwedowithron1768

ron are they made out of steel or aluminum I cant seem tot find there size but I did find them at partzilla fo .49 cents but like 9 bucks for shippin omg im going to keep looking for them

i'm not sure. i'm thinking stainless steel. they seemed hard. they had no colour or pitting. that makes me think stainless.

For that external threaded pinion nut. it does want non permanent thread locker and i think the torque was 101 FT/lb. the details are in the part 9 video.

some assembly lube wouldn't hurt i guess. i never did either. they are oil bathed and you want to keep stuff that's not wet clutch friendly out of the system.

thanks bud @@thestuffwedowithron1768

thank you

the ratchets i use mostly are a standard length. currently from a big stanley kit. i have many. one that extends from 8 inch ish to a bit better than a foot. if i really need to break something free there is always numatic impacts in my tool kits as well as a 3 foot ish 1/2 inch breaker bar. than a snipe bar on that if needed but i only needed that once breaking a ball joint free on my truck.

We are almost always boon docking. so we have to watch our fresh water usage. We almost bought the 17BH until we seen this one. I just really hated the side mount air con right in the face when the door was opened. We never used the air con in the 1950BH either as we never have shore power. So i really didn't want to look at something that ugly hanging off the wall for no reason. it could be busted and out of warranty and i'd never know about it. maybe one day we will pull it to a campground instead of the bush. but probably not until i get the boat rebuilt. i find the 1950BH not to bad with 1 lab dog. but she hates sleeping on the floor. and the bed just isn't big enough for all of us.

We had the OLD 17BH. It had a small fridge, big pantry, 40 inch wide bottom bunk and a furnace. The new ones suck imho.

Good tip, my model doesn't have an outside shower. I have thought of putting one in. But i need to increase the fresh water storage.

I used 80W-90 API GL-5 rated oil. Castrol brand was what I had on hand. The manual recommends high quality straight 90W oil. No specific rating otherwise that I can remember.

The reserve is just the bottom inch or less of the tank. There are 2 pickups in the tank. The main pickup is higher in the tank so that any buildup of water and residue doesn't regularily get to the carb. This would be the worst if you have water and the bike has been sitting. You would have pure water in the carb. The reserve pickup is right at the bottom of the tank. So use it if you ever need to drain the tank fully.

Glad you like them!

Nice, hopefully it has everything you need. I try to be thorough. So it's a 13 part series instead of one 9 hour video.

A little tack should be ok. As long as the water is coming out clean than the filter should be clean. depends mostly how abused the filter is. I don't clean mine often enough so it gets very dirty.

Mine are both 1/2 inch or less skinnier on front and rear. Rim width may change that. Both front and rear are accurate in height when counting in the tread lugs. Thats even after over 500km on them. They looked seriously small after unbinding them. But once mounted, they streatched to size. I run about 5 to 6lb of air.

Sadly it isn't meeting my changed needs. So it is going to be ripped down and replaced with another soft shell structure so i can have a place to do work/maintenance during the winter.

Glad it was helpful!

Sorry to hear that, sucks to forget that. Be lying if i said i never done it.

It has worked well. No faults yet. hasn't seen a tone of use. It is light so it works well for the 300 brute but would be too small for the big brute.

glad it was helpful. I never use the AC as we never camp with AC power. So unlikely I will ever know if it quits. Maybe once I get the boat project on water we will actually camp in a campground and make use of the AC.