Thanks. You may be right. I thought that since the filament goes in on an angle, that it’d be harder to measure. At least with the the tube, I could use the edge of the tube as the reference point.
Wow, bad audio on the outro. Sorry about that. Thanks to everyone that joined. If you liked the content, please hit the like button and consider subscribing. Keep an eye out for part 2 where I hopefully get it printing. Thank you.
Great videos and I’m following upgrading my mk3s+ to mk3.5 But I feel you should have shown the installation of the thermistor as there are some important things you do as in where to position the thermistor and if I’m correct there are some areas where your not meat to put the kapton tape. I’ve actually found a seller on AliExpress who can supply the mk3.9/4 z axis rods and bearings so these can be installed on the mk3.5 and you would have a printer that would be in between a mk3.5 and mk3.9 (would that then make it an mk3.7?) but you don’t get the nextruder. The only thing I sound off putting are the sound effect you make (doo doo doo doo) when you showing your thinking. lol! But as I said very informative!
Thanks for the input, good point on the thermistor install. You're right, there are areas it's not supposed to go, i thought rather than watching me struggle to get it placed in the right place, and without bubbles or wrinkles, that I'd do it off camera and save any viewers from that. About the doo doo doo, truthfully it's just something I do so there's not just silence. As I'm still fairly new and with low/no viewers, a lot of the time it's just me talking to myself. I'll try to avoid doing it though. I've also just added background music for future streams.
Had a spool come in from them and it was wound up backwards almost, as it doesn't spit freely on the reel. I contacted them and left a negative review and got no reply, that's pretty bad customer service.
I'm not using the gold, but the Silver and having all sorts of problems with it. Adhesion mostly. ( bed and layer ). Going to try and print it at a higher temp as some reddit posts have suggested...
@@stephanemorrell5253 Not great if I'm honest. The prints looked fine, but were very brittle. The filament never looked consistent coming out of my nozzle.
@@Niloc1922 Thanks for the reply, I read some comments on some reddit boards and it's been suggested that this needs to print at a higher temp to really get the shine as well as the adhesion... I'll give it a try tonight and report back. ( But yeah, so far I haven't had a good experience at all )
@@Niloc1922 well I got decent printing temp/adhesion at around 210/215. But then it was stringing like *crazy*. Did a ton of retraction tests and got it printing okay at 206 with a bed at 60, retraction 4mm at 40mm speed with a travel speed of 240. Not super "metallic" though...
Fair warning -- This filament does not go well in high-torque extruders. The sheen appears to come from an outer layer of plastic with different thermal and mechanical properties from the inner PLA. When I tried to duplicate-print objects with this filament on my IDEX printer with geared extruders, the filament started stripping about 2 hours into the print. It left tiny gummy crumbs of yellow material embedded in every little groove of the extruder drive wheel and about a 3/4" long area of the outer sheath on both extruders. Recovery so that I could print with other filament again required taking apart both extruders to the point of pulling the drive wheels and cleaning the yellow gunk out of all the little slots. This might be easier with a soft wire brush (which I didn't have at the time), but the bits were so gummy compressed air didn't do the trick and I was reduced to poking stuff out of each groove with a toothpick. YMMV, but I will not be putting this filament anywhere near my printer ever again.
Have you tried printing CC3D silk pla w/ 0.25 mm nozzle? I can print Mika3D silk silver pla w/ 0.4 mm nozzle, but it frequently clogs w/ 0.25 mm and 0.3 mm nozzle.
It’s still PLA plastic, it’s just gold pigmented. There’s no metal in it. While I can’t print in actual gold, I do wonder if it would be possible if you got a nozzle hot enough.
@@betterlivingthrough3dprint229 Probably not... 3d printing works because plastics have a relatively wide temperature range between glass transition and liquid. This allows filaments to be heated to a temperature somewhat north of glass transition but far enough south of liquid that they come out of the nozzle (mostly) only when pushed out and retraction can provide a little assistance keeping things from dribbling too much. That's why you get more stringing as you increase temperatures. Printing also needs to be done at a temperature that allows the plastic to freeze to a relatively solid state fairly quickly once it's exposed to ambient temperatures. (The low volume, high surface area ratio of an 0.4 mm strand helps here as well). Actual Gold, OTOH, has a relatively narrow temperature differential between almost pourable and runny liquid. In addition, you not only need a hotter hot end, but your bed would have to tolerate the temperatures of the molten gold being deposited and the rest of your printer components would have to handle the heat as well.
I have been using several of their silk colors and it seems to print low detail objects very well. I was calibrating the printer and found that I cant get rid of some blobs, zits and strings at finer detail. The temperature towers I print show it getting stringier the lower the temperature is! this is backwards of how its suppose to work. My best results are between 210-225 at a higher print speed. When the X/Y speed drops around a tighter corner or curve, I get zits and its making me crazy!
Found the real problem. In Cura slicer, the bridging setting does not actually kick in when the model shows a real bridge. Its pretty much on all the time, and It was causing this silk pla to have really bad strings between support material and the model and also multiple model vertical protrusions. So, Im leaving the bridge setting off till I actually need to mess with it!
Generally to avoid things like zits and blobs you want things to happen as quick as possible. If it’s slowing down too much in corners you’ll want to look at your jerk (or equivalent) setting as that’s what will make that corner quicker. Boost it up within reason for the mechanics of your machine. Also same goes for non print moves, make them as fast as possible to give less time for filament to ooze our. Retractions and un-retractions should be quick too to keep the pressure in the nozzle predictable.
@@betterlivingthrough3dprint229 Thank you very much! I wasn't sure where to start looking with the blobs Most videos address retraction but once you have that dialed in for the layer height and still have blobs.......not much to go on.
That cat was printed really nice! Keep it up making videos, i think your channel will get noticed sooner or later. You would be suprised how fast things can go.
Oh yeah, and I ended up checking that the Wagos made the connection between the bed heater and the thermal fuse with a multimeter.
That overhead view I can’t see anything being done
You're right, I'm limited on space and that view doesn't do much for larger printers. I'll try an angle from the side. Maybe that would be better.
Thanks. You may be right. I thought that since the filament goes in on an angle, that it’d be harder to measure. At least with the the tube, I could use the edge of the tube as the reference point.
Just a thought but would have been simpler to extrude when you had the Bowden off and clip it flush.. then measure exactly what comes out
Wow, bad audio on the outro. Sorry about that. Thanks to everyone that joined. If you liked the content, please hit the like button and consider subscribing. Keep an eye out for part 2 where I hopefully get it printing. Thank you.
Great videos and I’m following upgrading my mk3s+ to mk3.5 But I feel you should have shown the installation of the thermistor as there are some important things you do as in where to position the thermistor and if I’m correct there are some areas where your not meat to put the kapton tape. I’ve actually found a seller on AliExpress who can supply the mk3.9/4 z axis rods and bearings so these can be installed on the mk3.5 and you would have a printer that would be in between a mk3.5 and mk3.9 (would that then make it an mk3.7?) but you don’t get the nextruder. The only thing I sound off putting are the sound effect you make (doo doo doo doo) when you showing your thinking. lol! But as I said very informative!
Thanks for the input, good point on the thermistor install. You're right, there are areas it's not supposed to go, i thought rather than watching me struggle to get it placed in the right place, and without bubbles or wrinkles, that I'd do it off camera and save any viewers from that. About the doo doo doo, truthfully it's just something I do so there's not just silence. As I'm still fairly new and with low/no viewers, a lot of the time it's just me talking to myself. I'll try to avoid doing it though. I've also just added background music for future streams.
i would reset your support setting for the silk
I may have missed it, but did you grease the inside of the gearbox?
For sure, I greased it. Somewhere in there.
Greasing starts about 38:27
i want to build one
It looks to be well documented and not overly complex. Definitely look into it.
Had a spool come in from them and it was wound up backwards almost, as it doesn't spit freely on the reel. I contacted them and left a negative review and got no reply, that's pretty bad customer service.
What was the temp, what were the settings? I have the carbon fiber with the Ender 3 Pro
I'm not using the gold, but the Silver and having all sorts of problems with it. Adhesion mostly. ( bed and layer ). Going to try and print it at a higher temp as some reddit posts have suggested...
Thanks for the video! Just bought some of this filament in silver.
How did this go for you? I just got Silver as well, and struggling to get something decent to print.
@@stephanemorrell5253 Not great if I'm honest. The prints looked fine, but were very brittle. The filament never looked consistent coming out of my nozzle.
@@Niloc1922 Thanks for the reply, I read some comments on some reddit boards and it's been suggested that this needs to print at a higher temp to really get the shine as well as the adhesion... I'll give it a try tonight and report back. ( But yeah, so far I haven't had a good experience at all )
@@stephanemorrell5253 No problem. Good luck! Yeah, let me know if you work it out.
@@Niloc1922 well I got decent printing temp/adhesion at around 210/215. But then it was stringing like *crazy*. Did a ton of retraction tests and got it printing okay at 206 with a bed at 60, retraction 4mm at 40mm speed with a travel speed of 240. Not super "metallic" though...
Fair warning -- This filament does not go well in high-torque extruders. The sheen appears to come from an outer layer of plastic with different thermal and mechanical properties from the inner PLA. When I tried to duplicate-print objects with this filament on my IDEX printer with geared extruders, the filament started stripping about 2 hours into the print. It left tiny gummy crumbs of yellow material embedded in every little groove of the extruder drive wheel and about a 3/4" long area of the outer sheath on both extruders. Recovery so that I could print with other filament again required taking apart both extruders to the point of pulling the drive wheels and cleaning the yellow gunk out of all the little slots. This might be easier with a soft wire brush (which I didn't have at the time), but the bits were so gummy compressed air didn't do the trick and I was reduced to poking stuff out of each groove with a toothpick. YMMV, but I will not be putting this filament anywhere near my printer ever again.
Have you tried printing CC3D silk pla w/ 0.25 mm nozzle? I can print Mika3D silk silver pla w/ 0.4 mm nozzle, but it frequently clogs w/ 0.25 mm and 0.3 mm nozzle.
Is it real gold? If not, can you print using real gold filament?
It’s still PLA plastic, it’s just gold pigmented. There’s no metal in it. While I can’t print in actual gold, I do wonder if it would be possible if you got a nozzle hot enough.
@@betterlivingthrough3dprint229 Probably not... 3d printing works because plastics have a relatively wide temperature range between glass transition and liquid. This allows filaments to be heated to a temperature somewhat north of glass transition but far enough south of liquid that they come out of the nozzle (mostly) only when pushed out and retraction can provide a little assistance keeping things from dribbling too much. That's why you get more stringing as you increase temperatures. Printing also needs to be done at a temperature that allows the plastic to freeze to a relatively solid state fairly quickly once it's exposed to ambient temperatures. (The low volume, high surface area ratio of an 0.4 mm strand helps here as well). Actual Gold, OTOH, has a relatively narrow temperature differential between almost pourable and runny liquid. In addition, you not only need a hotter hot end, but your bed would have to tolerate the temperatures of the molten gold being deposited and the rest of your printer components would have to handle the heat as well.
I have been using several of their silk colors and it seems to print low detail objects very well. I was calibrating the printer and found that I cant get rid of some blobs, zits and strings at finer detail. The temperature towers I print show it getting stringier the lower the temperature is! this is backwards of how its suppose to work. My best results are between 210-225 at a higher print speed. When the X/Y speed drops around a tighter corner or curve, I get zits and its making me crazy!
Found the real problem. In Cura slicer, the bridging setting does not actually kick in when the model shows a real bridge. Its pretty much on all the time, and It was causing this silk pla to have really bad strings between support material and the model and also multiple model vertical protrusions. So, Im leaving the bridge setting off till I actually need to mess with it!
Generally to avoid things like zits and blobs you want things to happen as quick as possible. If it’s slowing down too much in corners you’ll want to look at your jerk (or equivalent) setting as that’s what will make that corner quicker. Boost it up within reason for the mechanics of your machine. Also same goes for non print moves, make them as fast as possible to give less time for filament to ooze our. Retractions and un-retractions should be quick too to keep the pressure in the nozzle predictable.
@@betterlivingthrough3dprint229 Thank you very much! I wasn't sure where to start looking with the blobs Most videos address retraction but once you have that dialed in for the layer height and still have blobs.......not much to go on.
I really like the shimmer of this one. Hopefully my prints turn out this well when my spool gets here
Very nice review. Can you please share the Stl for Avengers. Thank you
Sure, here's the Thingiverse link. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2888091
I like your videos. That cat is a good design. Can you please share the STL. I want to give it a try . Thank you
Sure, here's the Thingiverse link. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2643326
That cat was printed really nice! Keep it up making videos, i think your channel will get noticed sooner or later. You would be suprised how fast things can go.
Hi There, Thanks for your reply on the reprap forum. I checked out this interesting video and subscribed, thumbs up!
Thanks for subscribing, I appreciate it.