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Emilio Tamayo
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2013
Ford Ranger, Mazda, rear door stuck repair 2nd video
Ford Ranger, Mazda pick up truck rear door repair. This time the door panels need to be removed. The door failed to open due to a common latch cable end failure. The original cable end was made out of plastic which becomes brittle with time/temperature and breaks. The available aftermarket repair parts are made from machined aluminum, available via the internet, or may find that some auto part stores carry them. I purchased the one used in this video from Ebay under the search: Ford Back door handle latch cable repair kit, or go to your local Auto Part store which by now a lot of them have it in stock since is a common problem on ford trucks.
มุมมอง: 5 769
วีดีโอ
Crane at construction site
มุมมอง 743 ปีที่แล้ว
I saw a great opportunity to film a crane on a day off work.
First Crane vid
มุมมอง 453 ปีที่แล้ว
I found and filmed this crane at the crack of dawn. The music is from Bensound.com
Day at the Park
มุมมอง 534 ปีที่แล้ว
I decided to film my family at the park to practice drone flying techniques. Not much flying during this pandemic. It was a short quick video you can tell that the subject at times isn't even in the center of the screen, no much editing but I had to get it out my system. Enjoy!
First light waves
มุมมอง 844 ปีที่แล้ว
Capturing the very first light of the day over the ocean waves at Palm Beach Island, Florida.
Ford Ranger, Mazda, rear door stuck repair
มุมมอง 55K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Ford Ranger, Mazda pick up truck rear door repair WITHOUT removing door panels. The door failed to open due to a common door handle latch cable end failure. The original cable end was made out of plastic which becomes brittle with time/temperature and breaks. The available aftermarket repair parts are made from machined aluminum, available via the internet. I purchased the one used in this vide...
Roll Off 101: Tricky compactor
มุมมอง 3K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Yes, you are supposed to align the compactor to the guide on the ground with the truck totally crooked and then push it straight under the garbage chute! Obviously this set up was NOT well thought through. Music by Bensound.com
Lake worth Lagoon
มุมมอง 1345 ปีที่แล้ว
This was filmed at the Riviera Beach intercoastal Lake worth Lagoon in Florida. A DJI Inspire 1 was used with a Zenmuse X3 camera. The music was provided by Bensound.com.
Blue Heron Bridge drone landing
มุมมอง 435 ปีที่แล้ว
Kind of stressful situation when I realized that the Return to Home mode wanted to land the drone over by the bridge in the middle of the right lane of traffic. Never crossed my mind that the GPS feature would land the drone on the same spot that it took off from but on the top. In this case, the drone took off from under the bridge and the GPS brought it back to the same spot from above. A goo...
Flying around the Blue Heron Bridge
มุมมอง 425 ปีที่แล้ว
Flying around the Blue Heron Bridge and Peanut Island, and landing under the Bridge on a pylon. This is a complete, raw, unedited video that shows at the end a backwards landing of the drone under the Bridge on a pylon due to GPS Home point return wanting to land on top of the bridge, RTH had to be "dumped" on a manual ATTI landing mode with a strong cross wind was performed. An Inspire 1 with ...
Palm Beach Island from a Drone
มุมมอง 575 ปีที่แล้ว
A quick view of Palm Beach Island from the north shore. The sun had just risen out the ocean. The music is provided by www.bensound.com. This is my first drone video posted. Any comments are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Roll Off 101 Flat drop
มุมมอง 6216 ปีที่แล้ว
Dropping a compactor without raising the roll off hoist, this is possible by a Heil Low lift body. There is a noise restriction before 8 am at this place and raising the hoist would activate the "boom up alarm" which is quite loud, so this is how you achieve dropping the compactor without getting into trouble.
2012 2014 Ford Focus Windshield Washer Reservoir Replacement
มุมมอง 83K6 ปีที่แล้ว
2012 2014 Ford Focus Windshield Washer Reservoir Replacement
Roll-Off 101(Double stacking a 30 yarder)
มุมมอง 4.2K7 ปีที่แล้ว
Roll-Off 101(Double stacking a 30 yarder)
Ford Ranger, Explorer 5.0V8 and Mazda B series, A/C Evaporator Replacement
มุมมอง 39K7 ปีที่แล้ว
Ford Ranger, Explorer 5.0V8 and Mazda B series, A/C Evaporator Replacement
You are a hack. Holy crap.
it would have been nice to see the removal of the evaporator from the housing.
I apologize my friend, but it wasn't much of a big deal. It was very simple. Just make sure that you clean it up, mine was nasty with dirt and wet dead leaves from the AC oil leaking in there.
It freakn worked on my 2001 ranger it took seconds thabk you for your video
Thank you so much for the video great job
Great video my friend! I will be doing this job later today. I hope I can pull it off as well as you did the job : )
Finally somebody mentioned what size drill bit to drill out the rivets. Thanks, you’re the man!
Grit gets in the plastic clips and then they don't want to come out. Spray them with wd40 and use light pressure out they come. used this method for years at the dealers. I suspect the tanks deteriorate over time which stop up the pump and the washer eyes.
bro, i love your video, its super informative, i hope your finger is good, edit that out though porque la gente esta pendeja y se asustan,
Gracias, bro.
How in the F do you get a NEW cable installed in the top? This is one of the most annoying jobs I have ever done on this pos truck...ugh
You don't need a new cable. It's just the cable end replacement made out of aluminum. Have a buddy mechanically inclined help you out. The top replacement starts at the 4:32 minutes mark.
@@Flyingfeather3256 I ended up stripping the round plastic end off of the new cable and using the spliced smaller end of the repair kit. Working good now, thanks.
The center pin on the rivets are easy to punch back. Then the aluminum rivets are also easy to drill out. If the plastic sleeves on the cable ends of the handles are deteriorated then the cable ends on the latches are bad also. However, the cable ends on the latches are not removable as they have a small ball on the end that cannot be taken out of the latches. You must first remove the cables from the handles then slide new metal sleeves on the cable ends at the latches. Then reinstall the latches.This is so you will have enough slack to install the new sleeves. Then you can install the handles and sleeves.
I fought for 2 days just trying to turn the housing to remove it. Today I removed the tire and plastic wheel liner, pulled the heater hoses out of the way and it came right out. Save yourself hours of frustration.
Nice! I didn't record the struggle to take it out, but yes, I think you found a better way. Some people don't mind taking more things apart, but other guys do. I'm glad you got it my friend!
I’m sorry but you are such a dumbass
Great video! Thanks a million!
Wow that sucker is a lot of work for the average person. Wonder what that would cost to have a shop change that out. Good video, but way more than i would want to tackle by myself. I would have to take it to a shop anyway to perform a vacuum, anyway.
Get an estimate from a shop, and go from there. And if you by any chance decide to tackle the job yourself, make sure everything is nicely assembled and have a shop vacuum and charge the system.
Both our doors are broken now.
Buddy, the air cleaner box just pulls out 😭😭 it’s held in by rubber bushings
Lol, Yes you are right, but the rubber bushings on this one were like cooked hard and felt like they were "glued" to the air cleaner box, and I didn't wanted to break them.
Thanks. Ford and independent shops want $1,000 here in the Atlanta area. They aren’t willing to repair. They just want to replace the entire mechanism.
Are you serious?
Right, yes. The last independent shop said they had to buy the entire assembly. Cables, latches etc. And only Ford had them for like $350.00 a side plus installation. No way. I’m going to buy the ends and install them per your video. Everything else works. The door can be opened by pulling on the cables. They just need to be reattached to the handles. Thanks.
@@donr8773 so far I haven't seen a case where the actual cables are bad. It's just the ends.
Good to know. ,thanks.
@@Flyingfeather3256 Mostly, I agree, although I have seen another video where someone had to replace the entire cable, because one of the ball ends had been pulled of the metal cable. I have done both of my rear doors, and like most, the cables themselves were good, so I just needed to replace the old plastic sleeves with the new aluminum ones. I would suggest that, although it will require removing the door panel, it would be wise to replace the sleeves on both ends of each cable while you're doing this, because it's likely the plastic sleeves on the latch ends will eventually break, and if that happens (it happened to me after I'd only replaced the sleeves on the handle end), then you'll have to go back through the entire drill out the rivets... operation again.
Tradução em português 1:09
I have a 2001 and this has not happened yet . But I did buy the parts to have then on hand .
My truck is a South Florida truck exposed to high temperatures must of the year making some plastic parts get brittle, you have to think that these parts never get cooled by the air conditioner since they are behind the door panel. I replaced the "easy ones" first and now I had to replace the "hard ones" at the other end behind the panels
Pain in the butt . Like in Michigan , I’ve replaced everything else on the truck why not these .
Change or resurface those rotors😂
😂
He's got skills that pay the bills
I would grease or oil the cable end to make putting the aluminum adapter easier to slide on.
Good job
I was worried that I would have to pay someone but after watching the video I was confident that I could do. I just needed to get the rivet gun n rivets cause I had never worked with that but it thanks to your video the job went smooth. Plus you didn’t make it complicated like other videos I watched. Thanks again
You are very welcome! I'm glad it was helpful for you.
Nicely done! I appreciate the text , makes it easier to review the information!
Do you have any advice for the cable being broken inside the door down by the latch?
When the cable is broken inside the door by the latch you have no choice but removing: the seat belt assembly and the door panel. That one is time consuming. I have to come up with a video for that one.
This makes soooo much more sense than removing the seat belt and door panel. Thank you Emilio!
Sometimes you got no choice but removing the seat belt and the panel if the problem is at the other end of the cable! But I'm glad that the video helped you.
I can see the plastic part is broken behind the handle, so Im hoping that your quick fix will do the job. I will know more once I get into it.
Great job!! Gracias!!!
terrible video
🤣😂
I just performed this procedure on my 2006 Ranger, LH back door. My local Advance Auto Parts had the part kits (Dorman #926-111) in stock! I used a 5/32" pin punch to punch out the rivet bodies, then tried to drill them out. That only spun the the rivet heads, so I simply knocked the 9/16" dia. rivet heads off with a hammer and chisel. One word of advice - clean and lubricate the sliding lock forks that hold the cable end ferrule in place. Also, make sure the slit on the replacement cable end is turned properly when reinserting the ferrule into the door handle mechanism so that the cable doesn't keep trying to get out of the ferrule. Overall time to fix one door handle was less than 1/2 hour. Emilio, thanks for the confidence that your video gave me.
The reason the pump didn't have the same connections is because you had a replacement for a regular Focus and not the hatchback (SEL) Focus. The second connection, for those reading the comments, is for the rear window sprayer.
Yes sir, you are correct!
Thanks for saving me having to remove the front bumper!
Where did you find the repair kit ? part number
At Google type: "Ford Ranger door cable repair kit" and will give you choices of different suppliers
The original link I published with the video isn't working anymore, so use Google search and type: "Ford Ranger door cable repair kit" and you'll see a lot of suppliers.
You Mentioned a clip …? E clip or what kits i see do t show clip
thanks man, just about to replace mine, this video is brilliant, very detailed 👍
Do I have to drain all the refrigerant out of the system before taking everything apart?
You are supposed to take things apart with an empty system. If there is some pressure in the system you are going to get hurt 🤕. If you don't have the means have someone extract the gas to a recollection tank. Don't vent it out to the atmosphere it's illegal and contaminates the atmosphere.
It looks like you replaced the housing around the evaporator core. Did you just clean the plastic very well?
Yes, I cleaned it. I don't like to reinstall dirty things back
Backyard auto repair, or crime scene?
. Others are suggesting you have to take inside trim off and open the door which is way more work. Drill and chisel removed the rivets. To test my door after cables were hooked up I had to place handle back in door for it to work properly. Rivets installed works perfect.Thanks for the great video.
👍
donde consigo esas piezas de aluminio
www.ebay.com/itm/164736714475. Ese es el link para que ordenes tus piezas en Ebay.
Tus piezas www.ebay.com/itm/164736714475 aluminio se consiguen en Ebay:
Thank you for your video, very helpful.
Excellent overview. Very helpful. Thx
Good job, very helpful
thanks
Toughest part was putting the cable back into the handle. But managed to get it back in after sliding the aluminum piece as far down the cable it could go.
I'm glad you got it 👍
What was so tricky ?
The yellow poles were in the way, you have to drop it in an angle and make sure it catches the guide in the back correctly or you'll cause destruction knocking the compactor shute attached to the building out of the wall.
You probably don’t even have a cdl stfu
Do you use steel or aluminum rivets, thanks.
I used aluminum rivets
Dude the bottom portion of the air box is held in by rubber grommets theirs no need to drill a hole in it for access to the bolt for the reservoirs. Those grommets pop out pretty easy and if you remove the right front wheel and wheel well splash shield you can have access to underneath making things much easier and also giving you access to the grommets for the lower intake box. Also I'm pretty sure you got your airflow backwards, I'm pretty sure air goes into the right air duct from camera perspective on the firewall, the blower motor is on the left side and has to send air over the evaporator core and then into the right side air duct on the firewall. Also the original air box is covered in heat shielding so it would be prudent to buy thermal pads or thermal tape and cover the box. - 01 BoostedXPLR sport
Good video my man
Horrible video
Very good advice on the repair!