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Finally somebody mentioned what size drill bit to drill out the rivets. Thanks, you’re the man!

Grit gets in the plastic clips and then they don't want to come out. Spray them with wd40 and use light pressure out they come. used this method for years at the dealers. I suspect the tanks deteriorate over time which stop up the pump and the washer eyes.

bro, i love your video, its super informative, i hope your finger is good, edit that out though porque la gente esta pendeja y se asustan,

How in the F do you get a NEW cable installed in the top? This is one of the most annoying jobs I have ever done on this pos truck...ugh

The center pin on the rivets are easy to punch back. Then the aluminum rivets are also easy to drill out. If the plastic sleeves on the cable ends of the handles are deteriorated then the cable ends on the latches are bad also. However, the cable ends on the latches are not removable as they have a small ball on the end that cannot be taken out of the latches. You must first remove the cables from the handles then slide new metal sleeves on the cable ends at the latches. Then reinstall the latches.This is so you will have enough slack to install the new sleeves. Then you can install the handles and sleeves.

I fought for 2 days just trying to turn the housing to remove it. Today I removed the tire and plastic wheel liner, pulled the heater hoses out of the way and it came right out. Save yourself hours of frustration.

I’m sorry but you are such a dumbass

Great video! Thanks a million!

Wow that sucker is a lot of work for the average person. Wonder what that would cost to have a shop change that out. Good video, but way more than i would want to tackle by myself. I would have to take it to a shop anyway to perform a vacuum, anyway.

Both our doors are broken now.

Buddy, the air cleaner box just pulls out 😭😭 it’s held in by rubber bushings

Thanks. Ford and independent shops want $1,000 here in the Atlanta area. They aren’t willing to repair. They just want to replace the entire mechanism.

Tradução em português 1:09

I have a 2001 and this has not happened yet . But I did buy the parts to have then on hand .

Change or resurface those rotors😂

He's got skills that pay the bills

promo sm

I would grease or oil the cable end to make putting the aluminum adapter easier to slide on.

Good job

I was worried that I would have to pay someone but after watching the video I was confident that I could do. I just needed to get the rivet gun n rivets cause I had never worked with that but it thanks to your video the job went smooth. Plus you didn’t make it complicated like other videos I watched. Thanks again

Nicely done! I appreciate the text , makes it easier to review the information!

Do you have any advice for the cable being broken inside the door down by the latch?

This makes soooo much more sense than removing the seat belt and door panel. Thank you Emilio!

Great job!! Gracias!!!

terrible video

I just performed this procedure on my 2006 Ranger, LH back door. My local Advance Auto Parts had the part kits (Dorman #926-111) in stock! I used a 5/32" pin punch to punch out the rivet bodies, then tried to drill them out. That only spun the the rivet heads, so I simply knocked the 9/16" dia. rivet heads off with a hammer and chisel. One word of advice - clean and lubricate the sliding lock forks that hold the cable end ferrule in place. Also, make sure the slit on the replacement cable end is turned properly when reinserting the ferrule into the door handle mechanism so that the cable doesn't keep trying to get out of the ferrule. Overall time to fix one door handle was less than 1/2 hour. Emilio, thanks for the confidence that your video gave me.

The reason the pump didn't have the same connections is because you had a replacement for a regular Focus and not the hatchback (SEL) Focus. The second connection, for those reading the comments, is for the rear window sprayer.

Thanks for saving me having to remove the front bumper!

Where did you find the repair kit ? part number

You Mentioned a clip …? E clip or what kits i see do t show clip

thanks man, just about to replace mine, this video is brilliant, very detailed 👍

Do I have to drain all the refrigerant out of the system before taking everything apart?

It looks like you replaced the housing around the evaporator core. Did you just clean the plastic very well?

Backyard auto repair, or crime scene?

. Others are suggesting you have to take inside trim off and open the door which is way more work. Drill and chisel removed the rivets. To test my door after cables were hooked up I had to place handle back in door for it to work properly. Rivets installed works perfect.Thanks for the great video.

donde consigo esas piezas de aluminio

Thank you for your video, very helpful.

Excellent overview. Very helpful. Thx

Good job, very helpful

Toughest part was putting the cable back into the handle. But managed to get it back in after sliding the aluminum piece as far down the cable it could go.

What was so tricky ?

Do you use steel or aluminum rivets, thanks.

Dude the bottom portion of the air box is held in by rubber grommets theirs no need to drill a hole in it for access to the bolt for the reservoirs. Those grommets pop out pretty easy and if you remove the right front wheel and wheel well splash shield you can have access to underneath making things much easier and also giving you access to the grommets for the lower intake box. Also I'm pretty sure you got your airflow backwards, I'm pretty sure air goes into the right air duct from camera perspective on the firewall, the blower motor is on the left side and has to send air over the evaporator core and then into the right side air duct on the firewall. Also the original air box is covered in heat shielding so it would be prudent to buy thermal pads or thermal tape and cover the box. - 01 BoostedXPLR sport

Good video my man

Horrible video

Very good advice on the repair!

I just did this, I think there are a few important points missed: 1) Don't try to pull the fender clips as the author suggests, you will bend the tabs inside the fender. Instead, when you order the replacement reservoir, order replacement push clips. They're about 50 cents each. Just cut the head off with a wire cutter. You'll save 20 minutes and you'll do a neater job. 2) When you remove the hoses from the pump, there is a tiny clip on each that lets it pop right off. One hose has a white clip the other a black clip matched to the color on the pump. Use a tiny screwdriver or pliers to push them out of the way (they're not supposed to come off) 3) Have a large container handy to catch all the fluid, you'll need it. You might consider removing the pump (it pulls out) it will drain the fluid much more quickly. Frankly, it's a miserable job. No wonder why my Ford dealer didn't want to do it.

Some say he's out there somewhere repairing vehicles and bleeding all over them as a warning to others.

Apurocalculoblo

Will this work for my older Mazda?its 20 yrs old and still runs great!