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WFJ Enterprises -- Bill Johnson
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2021
Incurable Type A tinkerer and lover of quality old mechanical things.
Featherweight Guy - Encasing the lead HD 720p
The lead sheath that covers the lamp wires in a Singer Featherweight is often covered with oxidation. In this video, Featherweight Guy shows how to remove the lead casing from the lamp, safely remove the wires and clean it, and then completely encase it in heat shrink tubing. More at featherweightguy.com
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Featherweight Guy: Gear mesh update! HD 720p
มุมมอง 2024 หลายเดือนก่อน
Following up on the discussion about gear mesh in the Prepping for Paint video, Featherweight Guy demonstrates the pattern with which the gear teeth meet and explains why we don't need to worry about returning to the exact same tooth-to-tooth configuration.
Featherweight Guy Explains - Wet Sanding HD 720p
มุมมอง 2344 หลายเดือนก่อน
Featherweight Guy explains and demonstrates the process he uses to wet-sand between coats of finish to get a mirror-smooth paint job. This video continues the finishing process on the same 1936 Featherweight shown in the Prepping for Paint video. This Featherweight will be available on featherweightguy.com once complete.
Featherweight Guy Explains Motors - Let's do some Science! HD 720p
มุมมอง 3204 หลายเดือนก่อน
Featherweight Guy explains how the electric motor on a Singer 221 works, complete with a simple science demonstration of an electromagnet. A second science demonstration shows how the same principles of magnetic attraction that convert electricity into rotating force in an electric motor can be reversed to generate electricity. He also debunks myths about supposed causes of sluggish motors and ...
Featherweight Guy Explains: Prepping for Paint -- Main Shafts Out! HD 720p
มุมมอง 4954 หลายเดือนก่อน
The process I use to prepare a Singer 221 Featherweight for a repaint. I explain how and why I remove the main shafts and gears, including how the excellent Singer engineering makes it easy to reassemble these critical parts correctly. I also explain how I use chemical stripper to strip off the original factory paint, mask and prepare the parts, and prime with self-etching priming. The Featherw...
Featherweight Guy Explains - Pricing HD 720p
มุมมอง 1605 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bill explains the factors that contribute the prices for his restored Singer Featherweight sewing machines.
Featherweight Guy Explains - Electrical System
มุมมอง 1316 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bill expains the importance of the electrical system on a Singer Featherweight and the steps he takes in his restorations to ensure that it is safe.
Featherweight Guy demo - 1886 Singer Model 12
มุมมอง 2.4K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
See how a hand-crank 1886 Singer Model 12 operates all of the controls explained, winding a bobbin, loading the shuttle, threading the machine, and sewing. This machine will be available for purchase on April 1, 2024 at my online store: featherweightguy.com
Featherweight Guy Explains - Little Things...
มุมมอง 2596 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bill explains some of the little things he does during his restorations of Singer Featherweights that can mean the difference between a decent job and a very nice job.
Featherweight Guy - Shop Tour
มุมมอง 1686 หลายเดือนก่อน
A tour of the workshop space where Bill Johnson restores the Singer 221 Featherweight sewing machines that are available from FeatherweightGuy.com.
Featherweight Guy - How Many Parts?
มุมมอง 1986 หลายเดือนก่อน
A Show & Tell explanation of the 200 parts I remove and restore in a Singer 221 Featherweight sewing machine. Visit the online store at www.featherweightguy.com
Featherweight Guy - My Story
มุมมอง 4426 หลายเดือนก่อน
Introducing Bill Johnson, Featherweight Guy (www.featherweightguy.com) and why he is so passionate about restoring Singer 221 Featherweight sewing machines. Shout-outs to the following who have been helpful in Bill's journey into sewing machine restorations: Bob Fowler: www.youtube.com/@BobFowlerWorkshop Jen at Sewing Machine Rehab: www.youtube.com/@SewingMachineRehab The Featherweight Shop: ww...
Restoring a 1947 Lionel #675 locomotive
มุมมอง 1.7K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mechanical restoration including disassembly, cleaning/polishing all parts, testing the motor components, soldering in all new wiring, reassembly and testing of the motor and reversing switch, and installing all parts back onto the locomotive. I am not a model train enthusiast or collector, just an incurable tinkerer and lover of quality mechanical things, especially antique clocks and vintage ...
Antique Clock Restoration: the Granberg family clock, a 1914 Ingraham "Suwannee" SD 480
มุมมอง 3182 ปีที่แล้ว
The full story of restoring this antique clock that has been in one family for four generations, told in 16 chapters. See Table of Contents below: 1. Disassembly and Assessment - 00:00:15 2. Case Forensics - 00:09:54 3. Stripping the Old Finish - 00:16:38 4. Sanding and Staining - 00:18:50 5. First Coat of Finish - 00:23:57 6. Case Reassembly - 00:33:01 7. Final Finish on Case - 00:39:26 8. Mov...
Very helpful video. I figured there was lead in the machines since they are so old but I wasn’t sure where. I was recently gifted a bunch of vintage sewing machines. I was wondering if you knew if there lead in the paint or decals? I’ve tried looking it up but I haven’t found anything.
@@Perrperrjones thank you! I can’t say if there’s any lead in the paint or decals. There may well be, albeit very small amounts.
Sorr but we need some sound
Usually the wheel are installed at 90 degrees from side to side. This is called quartering. All steam locomotives real or toy are done that way.
@@jamesclose7293 thank you
Thanks for the video. I have a 1948 575 that I received for Christmas (second hand :) in 1961. To my knowledge, there are no remaining independent model train stores in North Carolina and this video will be of great help as I will now be doing my own maintenance.
@@mikeandlucky thank you. These vintage Lionel trains are wonderful and well worth the effort to maintain and eventually restore.
Great shop.
Thank you! I’m a relative newbie at creating videos so I need to look into better production techniques, including audio. I’ll try to do better!
Another enjoyable video from you! The volume is super low, so I had to use subtitles. But I loved watching this. Thank you!
This was wonderful to watch. I really admire your work ethic and everything you do to care for these lovely sewing machines!
Thank you!
Nice work Sir😊
@@conductorjohnmthtrains2239 thank you!
I've never seen anyone toss all the parts into a huge pile before? Wow
@@conductorjohnmthtrains2239 well, these are a lot less complicated than antique clock movements, so I’m not too scared about the parts. It can only go back correctly one way. Plus, I had the video footage of the disassembly that I could have referred to if I got confused. I put all parts in a magnetic dish when I’m disassembling so nothing rolls off the bench and gets lost.
Great Video Bill. I was wondering how to reuse the Lead sheath. Thank you for the tip
Removing the head from the base 3 screws, easy to do. Then it’s completely apart. I was very reluctant to do this at first.It has 2 poisoning pins at base. Like all the other parts, very precise fit. Slight tap on the base. Then when ready to reassemble tap back on. Thanks Mike.
Yes, I've separated the head from the base and you are absolutely correct about the positioning pins and precise fit. However, I don't really see a good reason to do this on a repaint project. I want a seamless paint bond across that joint.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 For me it makes easer to prep for black oxidizer. And I might end up painting it doesn’t take.
Hi Bill Love your videos How many cans of paint do you use on one machine Can't wait to see your final coat and to see your clear coat! Great job!!!
Thank you, Karen! A single can of aerosol paint is enough for 2-3 machines, usually. There's really not that a lot of paint on a Featherweight. The clear coat goes even farther because I normally apply only 2 coats.
My next project is a 221 striped to bare metal and painted with Birchwood Aluminum Black. Clear coat to protect finish. Using a bottom feed air brush. Do you see any issues. Thanks Mike
That sounds like a good plan, Mike. I assume you’ve used that air brush with that paint previously and know it will spray well. Also, if you haven’t used the clear coat you’ll be using over that specific paint previously, be sure to test it on something else first. If they’re not compatible, it will wrinkle and be a mess. You’d have to restrip and start over at that point. Don’t ask how I know this. You don’t mention primer, but I like self-etching primer for bare aluminum. I’m not familiar with Birchwood Aluminum paint but it may be formulated for good adhesion to bare aluminum. If so, you may be able to skip the primer step. Good luck with your project!
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 The aluminum black is a chemical . Same company makes gun bluing. Properly prepared body would mean no sanding black finish.
@@michaelbean739 Interesting. The bare aluminum on a Featherweight is not super smooth after chemical stripping, it's more like very fine sandpaper. Will you be applying decals? I'm not sure how well those would adhere. You'll be going somewhere I've never gone, so be sure to test out the whole sequence on a similar piece of aluminum to be sure you'll get the level of finish you expect.
I have a mistake around the 8:00 mark. I stated they the taller slot in a household electric outlet is the hot circuit. I had it backwards. The tall slot is neutral and the shorter slot is hot. Thankfully, on the Singer sewing motors, it does not matter which field coil lead is wired from the hot circuit. My apologies for the mistake, which Bob Fowler kindly brought to my attention.
A miniature socket would be far better to remove/install the tiny hex screws on the linkage. The pliers slipping has to chew up the screws. Also time saver for video presentation goes without saying.😊 But unless some issue with linkage no need to remove.😊 I’m assuming the total disassembly is just for presentation purposes since no diagnostics was initially shown to mandate it. Why remove wheels for no reason? Be advised wobble wheels can result when repressed on. I’ll be honest this disassembly made me cringe.
Good feedback, Gene. I would certainly have used a mini socket on those tiny hex heads, but they are smaller than any of my sockets. Full disassembly gave me the opportunity to fully clean and polish every part. I’m mainly a clock guy and that’s what we do in the world of clocks. I wish I had a smaller puller to get the wheels off. They had to come off to get the motor apart. It was totally filthy and I could not have done a food job cleaning it without disassembly. When I put the wheels back on they were very tight. I don’t believe they had ever been off the axles. That was my first Lionel loco project and I learned a lot. More experienced Lionel aficionados will sure see many rookie mistakes on my part. That’s how we learn!
Lovely diagnostics here, Bill - and thank you for the update! For a little while I was thinking 'Surely Sharpie don't make 20-odd different coloured markers!' This has got me to thinking, though, since you did find those two convenient 'not for matching purposes' marks on the gears in your last video whether, before disassembly, there would be an easy way to add one's own. Because it really is quite a good idea... Just a wee dot of paint, perhaps, applied with the end of a matchstick or toothpick if there's not a very fine brush handy? I'm interested to hear what your 'final findings' are after you put these machines back together and test them! :-)
Thank you, Megan. Yes, paint would work for marking. If I were going to mark the gears (I don’t believe it’s needed at this point) I would use the pointer tool you see in the video to make scratch marks. It has a hardened tip that should be able to scratch the hard alloy used for the gears.
In automobile rear ends you have to worry about lash which is the "slop" or looseness between the gears - I believe this is all that needs to be done to these gears- Being an old guy I've lapped a lot of valves in old engines which should be about the same for these sewing machines. You are doing a great service for all the vintage sewing machine addicts. Thanks
Thanks, Bill. Like you, I’ve had auto rear ends and trannies and engines apart. Lots of clocks, too. Gear trains all work pretty much the same way.
Never, never, gonna find a boiler face for $10!
You’re totally right about that. I saw one on eBay and bid $30 for it, but was outbid. So, for now, that light bulb has a ground wire added and it’s basically sitting loose behind the face. It’s my brother’s loco and I shipped it back to him that way. He’s going to look for a boiler face on his own.
This is wonderful information and detail. Even if I never do it myself, it's lovely learning what goes into getting a really smooth finish. The smoother and more 'glass-like' the finish is on a vintage sewing machine the more I like it and if I ever got up the courage to try it myself this is what I'd try. I hope you're going to show us more - no detail is too much for me, I'm hanging off every word and just about have my nose pressed to the 'window'. Like a kid outside Geppetto's workshop!
Your comments "made my day", Megan! Thank you!
Great detailed video, again! Have you found any benefit in using an automotive style primer filler and sanding that for a smooth before the topcoat? I so enjoy your expert advice. Your fan advice is a bonus😊
Thanks, Robin. I haven’t bothered with auto fillers. The surface defects I’m correcting via wet sanding are too minor to bother with fillers, whether pure fillers or filler primers. If the casting was pitted, I’d consider filler to level over the pits. Otherwise, I see no need. As for the advice on fans while spraying finishes, I hope I’m raising awareness of the dangers of using a household fan. Safety is a big deal and not the place to take chances.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 safety first is always the best advice. Thanks for putting out your videos with clear advice for achieving a professional finished product.
Thank you, Bill!
This was an excellent video. Very impressive. Your channel should grow by leaps and bounds as people find out about you. Thank you for what you're doing.
Excellent video. A follow up showing how to test an armature would be excellent. I know you like Bob Fowler but I don't think he has shown that using an ohm meter. Thanks for what you're doing for the vintage machine aficionados.
Just to be clear, Bill: I’ve got zero credentials in electrical engineering and don’t want to pretend I know in detail how to properly test everything. What I’ve learned is mostly from the School of Hard Knocks. The basic test of an armature is to go “around the commutator” and test each coil with an ohm meter by touching the probes to commutator bars opposite each other. As you go around, they should all read the same, or be very close. If not, it’s a bad armature and will need to be rewound or replaced.
I have an ohm meter but I didn’t know where to test. I have a 221 motor apart now and will check it out - I thought this might make a good video showing how you test a motor as I hadn’t seen anyone else do it - I hope you keep going as I love your meticulous approach
I hope you do a follow up on this painting - actually a series on painting. What paint do you use? I see you are using a self etching primer. I was considering an epoxy primer as that what I have used on some handrails I built and on some truck panels. Are you using spray cans or do you have paint gun or touch up gun for the paint? I want to pull a machine totally down and you showing that it is possible to pull the gears apart was inspiring. Thank you so much! I have subscribed.
Yes, I will be making additional videos of the finishing process on the 1936 Featherweight you see in this one. I use acrylic enamel in rattle cans. I have a spray gun but it’s too much bother to set it up and clean it afterwards for such a small job.
Very informative, sir! I am Ceracote certified, but I have used it mainly for very durable parts and firearms because of the ability to be so very thin. But, I think that I will learn to Ceracote the first and last allowing the middle costs to fill. Have you used a Bondo type of filler to smooth the casting in the past?
Thanks for your comments, Kevin. I’m not familiar with Ceracote. I have no objection to using auto body fillers (bondo) to smooth the casting but there’s no need on a featherweight. The aluminum casting is quite smooth. I do a light sanding of the self-etching primer before I apply acrylic enamel topcoats.
Great video! Where did you purchase the aircraft stripper?
I bought it from an eBay seller, knuckleheadsupplyco, but when I searched for it just now, I come up empty.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 Thank you!
Thanks for making motors so easy to understand. I have a 'smelly' motor. Is there anything i should be looking for that could cause it, aside from being burned out as you said?
Smelly is usually a bad sign, Robin. If you have an electric meter, you can use the ohms setting and test the resistance of each of the 11 coils in the armature, by putting your test probes on the commutator bars opposite each other. All 11 coils should show the same resistance. If they differ by more than a small amount, your armature is bad. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a motor with that burnt smell that turned out to be OK. My guess is that you’ll soon be shopping for an armature or another motor. Sorry to be pessimistic!
Thank you. I will try that. Hoping having my fingers crossed won't short circuit anything.
So glad that you made this video! I am trying to become a restorer…it is quite a path.
Welcome to a great pursuit, Kevin! Just keep at it. You might want to start with free/cheap machines and develop experience and confidence along the way, before you get into a more costly Featherweight. There are plenty of good old black Singers out there. Singer 66 and 99 models are great and sew really well. The 15’s are also excellent, though I like the top-load bobbins on the 66/99.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 thank you
Thank you for sharing a more in depth explanation of the motor. I have of question about the larger (11) bars that are on the armature. Do they need to be cleaned and polished like the commutator? I have a motor where those bars appear to be coated with the same varnish like coating as the copper wire that is adjacent to them. I really don’t know whether I should clean them or simply leave them alone.
You don’t need to clean them. Those are the steel core of the armature (like the nail in my demo). Remove anything loose or scaly but no need to polish.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 Thanks! I’ll leave well enough alone. Next I need to master soldering new wiring. Hint, hint….
I highly recommend watching Bob Fowler’s videos. No need for me to repeat what he does so well.
PZ-57 on order. Bobbin winder trick awesome. Just imagine how quiet and smooth running this machine once completed. Very very impressive. Thanks Mike
Bill, wow, just wow! Great job on sharing some really helpful information and debunking the myth of losing the factory mesh on the gears. You’re the only guy I know who was willing to share this information once you learned it. Hats off to you! Can’t wait to see a finished machine, I know it will be pristine!
Thank you, Jen! It was such a nice surprise to discover that the factory gear mesh could be restored.
You've done such a lovely job stripping her down the 'finish' looks pretty good already. I am really looking forward to seeing more of your process!
Very clear and informative. I appreciate your attention to detail. Thank you.
Thank you for this informative video. This process requires great skill and attention to detail, and I admire your expertise.
That`s a Spicy Meat Ball, you did a nice a job on that there machine me. Marx train motors be a hole lot easier me thinkem.
Indeed, I also have a lot of Lionel and Marx trains and I live in the Netherlands Europe and have fixed and restored all my trains after been stored in attics and basements and after all the years the Marx trains most of the times still runs but the Lionel needed the most cleaning especially the e unit... But I love both brands.... Greetings from Holland.
my first job as a teen ager was Lionel train repairman. That was more than 60 years ago. I sill have my Lionel wheel puller. Usually if a loco won't run we cleaned the E unit and the commentator. That almost always got the unit running again. We cleaned them with a hard pencil eraser and a tooth pick. The owner of the hobby shop smoked cigars, We used his lighter fluid to remove grease. We always did the simplest thing first and did not pull the wheels unless loose or broken. Frequently there was a build up of hardened oil and dirt on the wheels that had to be scraped off, A frequent problem was a melted E unit drum, which we had to change out. Sometimes there were broken E unit contacts to replace. We had a special tool for popping apart the E unit. That was usually the only disassemble we did. The coil or armature winding were hardly ever a problem. I've probably done a couple hundred locos. We used a paint brush to dust the loco, a black magic marker to cover scratches and then an over spray of armor all and another paint brush to shine up the armor all. They really looked good when we finished up
What a great recollection, Steve! Thanks for sharing it.
As a postwar Lionel collector, when you started I thought to myself all it probably needed was a cleaning of the commutator and e-unit and it should be good to go. For that to be the first time you ever had one apart I was very impressed by how far down you took it, but then realized you are a clock guy so this is nothing new to you. The only time I was thinking to myself you were about to mess up was when you were clocking the wheels at first but you realized you were about to mess up and corrected yourself by clocking the wheels at different directions. They actually should be quartered but should operate well at how you assembled it, just being quartered the running gear has less tendencies to bind up. Nice job!
Thank you! I can see how these Lionel trains can become addictive. It was fun to restore that locomotive. I did the Type V transformer first but didn’t record any video of that.
What size and where do you get the new grommets?
I get my grommets from McMaster Carr. Unfortunately, the minimum quantity with them is 100. I’ll have to look up the size. I’m shamelessly following Bob Fowler’s lead on the McMaster Carr grommets.
I know they are “deeper” than most grommets. The featherweight shop will sell them but they want too many $$$ for them. I have seven grandchildren that I’m collecting for them and need 10 grommets the featherweights that I have. So,if you could enlighten me as to the actual size for them, I would appreciate it. Where are you located?
I’m out of town this week but I’ll measure them when I get home. You are correct get they are deeper than the grommets available at the hardware store. I buy them with a smaller center hole, as well, to better fit the modern 18 gauge wire I use that is thinner than the cloth covered 18 gauge wire that Singer used. I’m located in Altamont, NY.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I bought my grommets at McMaster-Carr in February of 2022. At that time, they were $13.59 per 100 (that’s the smallest quantity they sell). They are for 7/16” hole and material thickness of 1/8”. Part number 9600 K45. The Featherweight motor housing is thicker than 1/8” where the grommet goes through, but this is the closest match from McMaster-Carr and they work well. These have a smaller center hole than the Singer original grommet, which is perfect since the 18 gauge wire I use has a much thinner insulation jacket than the 18 gauge wire Singer used. I hope this helps!
I really love the way the case and base of both machines are so high gloss. They look absolutely beautiful.
Thank you. It’s a traditional glass varnish finish.
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 Glass varnish finish? I've never heard of this, but I sure love that finish, it is just gorgeous. Maybe, if we're very good, you might show us how it is done one day (perhaps just on a plain piece of wood, so we can practice it that way ourselves)? I absolutely love working on the machines but would love just as much to learn about how to get the cases and bases and treadle-table tops into good condition. And for the very special machines, beautiful like this. :-)
@@meganmills6545 thank you for your comment. There’s a typo in my earlier reply - it a traditional “gloss” varnish finish. I use oil-based varnish, applied with a brush. The secret, which isn’t really a secret, is lots of sanding between multiple coats. I sand with 220 after the first coat, then 400 after the second and third. I switch to wet-sanding after that, with 600 and then 800. I don’t remember exactly how many coats are on that bentwood case, but probably at least 5. I am sanding quite a bit of it off after every coat, until it is glass smooth. Then I switch to tung oil for the last 1 or 2 coats (coats 6 & 7), wiped on with a cloth. The decals were applied after coat 3 or 4 so they have a good varnish protective covering. I regret not taking any photos or video as I restored this case. Maybe next time!
The second spool pinn may be there so you don't have to unthread the machine to wind a bobbin. The machines are beautiful.
Do you have a standard featherlight or GE model A ? I recently got one and didnt even know it was where the featherweight originated....the history is what draws me in ....
I don’t have one. Saw one locally on FB marketplace a few weeks ago but passed on it.
I found a first run 221-1 school bell sitting in a window of a pawn shop just getting sunbaked and blistered,,,so sad , i stepped up and payed 200 for it, machine and pedal only , i just couldn't leave it , im doing a full repaint now , machines runs great but needs new paint ....
That’s a really lucky find at that price!
The duel spool pins where so you could wind a bobbin at the same time your sewing, that way you had a full bobbin ready when the one in the machine runs out , no unthreading the machine when the time comes , just swap out the bobbin and carry on ....hope that explains it ...beutiful machines by the way , as a collector its still on my list to own a model 12 .....
Thank you. We have a nice collection of machines, but the model 12 is my favorite because of what it represents. It was truly a marvel in its day. And, it produces a beautiful stitch. Sewing machines advanced a lot after the model 12, but the stitches really aren't any better.
Wheels are pressed on. You either need a wheel-puller, or better yet, clean the armature in the housing. Also: leave the main connecting rod on the wheels to keep them in synch. The E-Unit is your problem. Clean that, and it'll run.
Thanks, Jon. I completely disassembled the E-unit, cleaned everything, and soldered on new wires. It wasn't in bad shape but I couldn't reach the spots to solder on the new wires without taking it apart. The motor was filthy dirty and a thorough cleaning and polishing of the commutator and brushes was what got it running well again. The locomotive is totally clean and properly lubed now and runs like new. These old Lionel trains are fantastic. This was my first experience working on one and now I totally understand why they have such a loyal following.
It's lovely to meet you, Featherweight Guy! I look forward to seeing more on your channel (and couldn't agree with you more about how wonderful Bob and Jen are - I love both their channels, and they are great people too - you can't go wrong following their lead!). Subscribed.
Thank you, Megan!
Did the manual say to use your finger on the back of the bobbin winder? I've used a similar one on a Henstenberg machine and the it seemed that the curve on the bottom of the 'upright spoon arm' part guided the thread beautifully back and forth without me needing to touch or guide anything. The 'smoother' that rested on the thread, together with the bobbin winding action, made the thread on the bobbin like as smooth as silk. The advice to let the ends be fuller than the middle was to help make sure you don't overwind the bobbin and have a 'bulge' of thread in the middle that would rub in the shuttle until enough of it was used up. (It would polish the inside of the middle of the shuttle and keep it clean, for sure, but the tension would be all over the show!) :-) If you can wind a smooth, evenly-filled bobbin in the first place you don't need to make it fuller at the ends. I know earlier winders had no guide at all, you had to do it all yourself - and for those I always do the 'fuller at the ends, or even underfill slightly' method. On another note, a nice trick is to trap the beginning end of the thread between the end of the bobbin and the little 'cup' it fits into on the right-hand side of the bobbin winder. You can then avoid having to turn it round the bobbin a few times by hand first, and can wind without a tail getting in the way or needing to stop and trim it off after a few turns.
Thanks, Megan! The reprint manual I have does not say anything about using your finger. In fact, it gives very little guidance on winding the bobbin. I haven’t tried winding a bobbin without guiding the thread with my finger, but you may well be right that it will go back and forth on its own. Your tip on trapping the end of the thread is a good one!
Two spool pins are one for sewing one for bobbin. I believe you can use a twin needle with this machine which would require 2 spools. The little screw to left of spool pin is tension for bobbin winding, then back to guide arm for winding. When retrieving bobbin shuttle the slide plate on left is spring loaded to eject shuttle. I have 1900s VestaB works same way as singer 12. Wonderful machines
I have an 1887 model 12 and it doesn't have the little spring mechanism on the left slide plate (or any sign there was one), and neither do any of my other my other Model 12 machines. However I did some work on an 1880s Henstenberg and it did have that feature, so it could be a difference the Vesta did too that the model 12 machines didn't have? (The Hengstenberg had a few nice features, like auto tension release when you raise the presser foot, the best long bobbin winder I've ever used and a thread cutter built into the 'rest' for the presser bar lifting lever. Apparently a few other companies did this sort of thing too and then marketed their machines as the 'improved' model 12. Singer was not impressed and sued them, doing publicitiy to say that the quality etc, etc couldn't possibly be improved upon. Maybe not the quality - but the functionality, very much improved for their time, I think.) :-)
@meganmills6545 there was crazy competition going on. Every company wanted their machine to be the IT model. Fun reading about all the machines and history behind them
Hey Bill, Congratulations on hanging out your shingle! If there's anything you need, feel free to touch base.
Thank you, Bob! You're first on my list of people to ask when I have a question. You've already been a great help with your excellent TH-cam channel and willingness to share what you know.
Hey Bill, Mike here. Got to ask why you don’t remove the shafts.
That's an important question, Mike. One of the best aspects of the drivetrain in these Featherweights is the helically-cut gears that transfer the power from the upper shaft to the lower shaft. There are 2 pairs, at the top and bottom of the vertical shaft and the adjoining horizontal shafts. Those gears were lapped at the factory, meaning that they were run with a mildly abrasive paste in the gears so that they fit together perfectly. That's why the drivetrain is so smooth and quiet on these machines. If you remove the shafts, it's virtually impossible to get everything reinstalled in exactly the same positions as before, with the same teeth meshing exactly the same way. They simply won't run as smooth and quietly again. None of the folks I know who restore Featherweights take out the shafts, for the reasons I just described. It's simply not necessary unless one of the shafts or gears are damaged, and that's a rarity. Cutting and lapping those gears was expensive for Singer, and they eventually did away with them and switched to using a toothed belt to transfer the power from the upper to the lower shaft. That's how pretty much all sewing machines nowadays work. Thanks for asking!
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 Hey Bill, Kinda disappointed in the reply. You are very passionate in all that you do I can tell. The reason for the disappointment is that you are repairer of clocks. It would seem that that would be a challenge. Marking gear placement is the only issue here. So be the first to video a main shaft being disassembled and reassembled. On a Singer 221
Sorry to disappoint, Mike. Gear trains in clocks are a very different animal than the helical gears in a Featherweight. I'm certainly not afraid of a challenge, but removing the shafts and gears on a Featherweight when there is no problem with them is not advisable, in my view. The likelihood is that the machine will never be as smooth and quiet afterwards. I like to think that I am adhering to the same sort of Hippocratic Oath that Doctors follow: "first, do no harm".
@@wfjenterprises--billjohnso8701 I took a 221 with a 5” harp space and stretched it to 8 5/8”. Removed hook and bobbin and rocker shafts feed dogs and installed Singer 20u hook and bobbin. So now I have a free motion 221. Runs fast and smooth. If the 221 has end play you adjust. Main gear on main shaft was designed to be adjusted. The shaft is slotted to get close tolerance . I can speak with experience that pulling it all apart is a complete and better job. Personally i think the whole gear messing thing is silly with the 221. Now if you are talking about gear messing a Singer 201, I would agree on almost on all your points but the 221 is really very easy machine to tackle
Very impressive, Mike!