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Certainly didn't go as smooth as I was hoping but I couldn't find any details how to do this anywhere so just wanted to share. Yes I goofed by not removing the lower bracket from the front window channel but it was a rigged up bracket. Not the original. These doors will be used for lower skin donors.

@@fozzir thanks for watching and glad the vid helps. Regarding the drain pan washer, I just got an assortment pack from the help section at the local auto parts store. If my memory serves right the drain plug is M14 which is around .55" so a 9/16" should also work.

@@davidstreeter9426 yes sir! I can't wait to get it back out on some trails!

Got a clip of it running?

@@davidonguitar not yet, in the process of setting up the clutch with the Novak adapter and just wrapped up the carb adapter this week

Good idea. I considered drilling to drain but decided I didn't want to risk the bit punching through and hitting the valve body. A step bet would have negated that risk though.

@@mr.espeedshop4839 I just watched another video on this...their trick was to use a self tapping screw to drill the hole...(so you can't punch thevalve body)

The thick positive needs to go through a dedicated large relay, fuse then to the battery. That wire runs a LOT of current so it needs to be a dedicated circuit. Hooking it up to the ign switch will certainly burn it up and potentially melt stuff, be a fire hazard. You could probably skip the relay and just to a 40A big mega fuse to the battery but there's a risk of vampire draw killing the battery (I didn't test for a vampire draw since I had plenty of relay spots in my repurposed explorer fuse box). The thick ground I just put to the chassis. The small gauge trigger needs to go to the ignition switch to be live in the key on & run position. Those are the only 3 wires you need. Waid has good wire pinouts on his old vintagemustangs forum thread. www.vintage-mustang.com/attachments/20160806_184723-copy-jpg.493202/ www.vintage-mustang.com/attachments/10-27-2016-1-39-59-pm-jpg.493194/

@@mr.espeedshop4839 ok mate thankyou

Yeah man! It's a nice piece. The factory one got bent up pretty good on that rock on top of the hole on hurricane Creek

None so far. I changed the oil on the truck last weekend and the trans pan & drain plug was clean and dry. I did however get an assortment of drain plug gaskets from advance auto and picked out an aluminum one with a rubber gasket around the inside. So I didn't even try the washer that came with the pan. I've got a mishimoto trans cooler to install soon.

@@mr.espeedshop4839 that’s good to hear. Other reviews have said the same thing about the plug gasket. I’m in the planning stage and hoping to make it worry free. FordtechMakuloco recommends new lead frame, bulkhead sleeve and pump pass through seal to prevent future problems. THANKS for the video and the quick response. 👍

Yeah that dude seems to know his stuff. My truck is really low mileage so didn't even think about anything beyond filter, fluid, bigger trans cooler, a reische thermostat, and Bilstein shocks.

That oil pan is garbage. After only 3 years in the North East with snow and salt the pan is flaking and pealing from rust. Thankfully I saved the OEM pan and I am putting the original pan back on my 2012 F150.

Yes it's ridiculous

I ordered the same part from cold case, and 2 40mm from Amazon so we'll see what's going on

No doubt

I'm glad I've got spare doors to practice on 😄

you can pump fluid in through the hole right above the pan when you remove the dipstick. I've tried the automotive hand pumps and haven't found any that I like so anymore I use a small garden sprayer from ACE with a hose jamed over the end of the wand. Fill the oil in the tank, screw the hand pump onto the tank, pump the tank up and then shove the hose attached to the wand into the hole and lock the sprayer open so you overfill it and pump a bunch onto the garage floor 😁 or skip that last part. I use that above method for priming mod motor/coyote oil system after rebuild, filling diffs, filling the willys jeep transmission & xfr case. The main reason I wanted the dipstick on the F150 is really to check the level in case the drain plug weeps/leaks, and so I wouldn't have to mess around right by the hot cat converter since I plan on doing this maintenance quite a bit more often than most people. Surprisingly the 6R80 sure seems to noticeably engage reverse faster after the fresh fluid & filter.

@@mr.espeedshop4839 Good to know! Thanks

​@@ChristopherSeaDawg glad I could help

This one's been with me for quite some time. The plastic is splitting on the bottom end but it doesn't get a whole lot of use since I have the lift

Good to know. That first fender has had a good month at 60° after freezing that first night.

i use kirker epoxy. used it for years and it really bites in and works great for under hood gm black. sets up super hard also. very chemical resistant. if you check out spraygun direct you can get great deals on spray guns that are much better than hf or amazon stuff but dont count the aeropro a610 out. bought one for grins and giiggles and was really surprised. spray guns direct i would recommend an ani f160 or devilbiss flg5 for hobbyist/home use or event professional. they work great and you can get whatever tips you want. the gunman has videos on them. you can get the kirker epoxy in couple different colors for about 135 ish for a kit which would make 2 gallons sprayable...hard to beat

Never even sprayed anything

This is what I have in my notes: 82-64 78 found on rockauto TOY LANCRUSR 4.2 OEM Part # Nippondenso 02800-2362/4 with cast iron drive

Pure Energy 16224 or ACDELCO 336142

Yep just a relay. The car was full time e85 so didn't go on long trips or spend much time in traffic

@@mr.espeedshop4839okay. Im looking at this pump with a bbrc sump tank. Think i will try the tps wiring with aftermarket ecu for tps signal. All else fails i will go constant 12v to the pump.

I tried that. It would sometimes spray for maybe a second or 2. That's it.

It has to be pre 09 iirc. I pulled both out of a wrecked 05 car that was bought at police auction.

That's full speed, 14V. I've driven it about 60 miles round trip without any issue, but since this is a street car I may add a smaller primary pump and stage the 5.0 to come on under boost.

awesome! Ohhh but that sound as awesome

Is it mounted under the car or in the tyre well?

@@ThatsMeanAs under the car behind the rear tire. I used the factory charcoal can bracket and mounted to that

Awesome!