วีดีโอ

Não existe, mas é mais fácil voce comprar literalmente qualquer CD externo USB que vai ser melhor que usar um drive PCMCIA. Abraços.

Works great, costs nothing, can't damage the interposer.

@@carlosbragatto nice

Thanks mate, I got this new XVI Compact with working drives (miracle). To write images back to real floppy disks to *all* of my computers I use Sir Keir Fraser's Greaseweazle V4 interface with two floppy drives, one 5 1/4" HD (Teac I think) and a 3.5 HD one (Samsung). I can also plug it eventually to a spare 3" FDD for writing 3" disks for the ZX Spectrum +3. So far I've written disks for the following computers with this Greaseweazle: - Sharp X68000 - NEC PC9821 - Fujitsu FM Towns (yes, there are games on floppies) - Commodore Amiga - Atari ST - MSX - Acorn Archimedes I'm yet to try writing Commodore 64/128 disks on it, I think that'll require a 360K DD Floppy Drive.

It comes on the CD, perhaps for testing if the data on the disc is reliable before installing it. I'd rather make sure it's okay before destroying my HDD with a bad CD, don't you? It's also a test if your CD drive is working properly, it's transferring data properly to the Amiga...

Falai Mario, beleza. Cara, eu preciso divulgar no grupo brasileiro tambem... Mas na verdade fiz esse video de qualquer jeito, não foi um tutorial propriamente dito. Vou fazer um decente, prometo, nos proximos 10 anos. Sim, é alcool isopropílico. Amolece a cola de silicone que é uma beleza.

on RSX or CELL?

Um dia antes. Se for na hora, ferra os chips :-D

Opa e ai, velho, pra ser bem sincero, eu quase nem joguei com esse controle desde então. Porém eu tenho um controle pequeno feito pela Retro Radionics chamado "Arcade R" que usa esses mesmos botões, e usei trocentas mil vezes mais que o controle arcade, e os botões estão perfeitos. Na verdade, o cabo do joystick ferrou antes dos botões! Diria que são extremamente resistentes. Pelo preço vale a pena voce comprar uns 2 botões extras e deixar guardado como reserva. Se ferrar, ce ja troca. Valeu pelo comentário!

@@carlosbragatto opa, obrigado pelo feedback!

Po eu não tenho Mister ainda, só sei no hardware real. E só funciona com disquete, se voce tiver o jogo instalado no HDD, tem que carregar separadamente o jogo que voce quer. X68000 é legal demais, pqp. Valeu pelo comentário!

E ai bro, infelizmente esse foi comprado como total e completo lixo no Japão, chegou IMUNDO, e esse teclado sequer abria inteiro! Depois que coloquei esse óleo na dobradiça ele passou a abrir inteiro, já dei um talento no visual com a limpeza e ficou ótimo. Mas não funciona ainda. O que me surpreendeu foi que parece ter sido POUQUISSIMO usado, seja como "máquina de datilografia" (nome mais ridiculo que pensei pra ele), seja como "MSX2 para joguinhos", as teclas ainda estão todas com aquela textura de novas, o micro está bem bonito. Vou acabar priorizando porque minha esposa ja falou que ta louca pra ver funcionando. Até achei as fitinhas da impressora e comprei algumas...

Aliás, ce precisa ver o X68000 que eu peguei. É do primeiraço modelo, o CZ-600, de 1987. E parece ser o primeiro modelo de todos, primeira revisão, cheio de gambiarras (de fábrica!) na placa... Mas chegou com ferrugem, todo desgraçado.

@@carlosbragatto torcendo pro bicho voltar à vida!!!

Vira e mexe alguem ai do Brasil comentar sobre esse filme... tenso. Abraços!

É uma longa longa história sobre um piloto de Formula Um

The Amiga version is *AWESOME*, for me it's one of the all time best Amiga games. Considering it's also a 1988 game that runs on 512K of ChipRAM, it's amazing. And one of the first games not to be straight ported from the ST, which had a very good version, considering the limitations of said machine, but there is a modern recreation that will run only on Atari STEs that is on par with the Amiga one. Full screen with overscan, more simultaneous colours, DMA music, it's insanely good. Thanks for the comment!

Hey spoke to you on Reddit! Hope we can get yours going, but I don't have success with the BlueSCSI V2 on a SASI-native X68000 like the Pro. I'd rather, as I had mentioned before, use a BlueSCSI V1 with the original ArdSCSIno-STM32 Japanese firmware. It works PERFECTLY.

Gracias mi amigo! Pero aun soy un aprendiz!

O que tem que prestar atenção é nessa cena que aparece o Zeus no Altered Beast do Mega Drive. Veja que em uma das TVs ele fica transparente, como nas tvs de tubo. Na outra, ele fica aparecendo somente umas linhas, sem o efeito de transparencia. Isso acontece porque o programador, pra criar esse efeito, ele troca o "Zeus" rapidamente entre os dois frames que compõem a imagem em 240P. A maioria das TVs LCD/Plasma/OLED só pegam *UM* dos dois frames, por isso que se perde esse efeito, e voce só consegue ter novamente usando um upscaler (como o OSSC).

Somente os Logitech, que são tão caros quanto os originais. Mas ao menos existe versão Wireless (Logitech Action, se não me engano). São identicos aos Dual Shock 2 originais em funcionamento. Já paralelos do Aliexpress, desconheço.

@@carlosbragatto a melhor solução então é o blueretro. Nele a sensibilidade ao toque permanece com um ds4 por exemplo?

Olha o comentário nesse video aqui, manda um email pro cara que ele te manda: th-cam.com/video/CGhFGDG4trk/w-d-xo.html

I know it's insanely boring, but it's a proof-that-it-works kind of video, for an interested person in buying this drive I'm selling.

Glad you liked it. Yeah, if you have a full hardware-based backwards compatible PS3 (CECHA or CECHB) the game performs perfectly, just like it would on a PS2. However on a partially-hardware based PS3 (CECHC and CECHE) I feel that the controls are a bit "laggy", the responses to your inputs are a bit delayed, the car feels heavy/floaty. On the other models, it's a bit worse, but still playable, we adapt to it... Thanks for the visit! Have a look at my other videos! Cheers!

@@carlosbragatto I see then and thanks for the interesting information too! I actually haven't had the chance to see the whole video just yet, but I still really like it anyway though and thanks again for uploading this one. I still have a working backwards-compatible PS3 model so far which still works fine for the time being which is one of the CECHA models with the full hardware-based PS2 backwards compatibility support, and I've played GT4 on it a few times so far already which plays pretty well for me. I used to have a CECHE model too of the PS3 which only has partially-hardware based backwards compatibility (one of the 80 GB models which even came bundled with the MotorStorm video game for PS3) and I still have it too so far even though it actually doesn't work now since it won't read any of my game discs now, no matter what kind of disc I insert in the console, and it only lasted for a few years for me before it finally stopped working many years ago. I also remember playing GT4 on that model as well although I don't really remember having too many problems with the game itself on that particular model of the PS3. Thanks again though for responding back to me, and I also really wish Sony would have still kept the PS2 backwards compatibility feature for all models of the PS3 which would have been really great, especially since all models of the PS3 are still backwards compatible with PS1 games too.

Amigo, voy a ir más lejos: en Japón estos ports los hacían programadores que tenían más tiempo para programar, el beneficio por juego vendido era mucho mayor (aquellos juegos X68000 eran muy caros), y además, tenían acceso a los códigos originales de los juegos, incluso tenían forma de hablar con los programadores originales. En cuanto a los ports occidentales/ingleses, si lees libros como Ocean's History o US Gold, te das cuenta de que simplemente firmaron un contrato para no ser demandados: no había soporte, ni documentación. Como mucho, iban a un salón recreativo y filmaban el juego con una cámara VHS, a veces compraban la placa recreativa original y jugaban hasta que lo entendían. Los programadores tenían muy pocas semanas para hacer los juegos, estaban mal pagados, los juegos se vendían baratos, la piratería era enorme y los beneficios escasos. Véase el port de Bubble Bobble para Amiga y ST. No hay secretos, ni finales alternativos, ni estrategias, ni nada. Y son juegos que funcionan a 25 FPS... Compáralo con el moderno Tiny Bobble para Amiga, que demuestra lo bien que se puede programar un juego hoy en día...

@@carlosbragatto mejor dicho imposible! Muy bueno!

Nope and not going to sell it. It was quite a nightmare to bring it from Japan.

You're not a subscriber to my channel, are you?

@@carlosbragattoYes of course i'm a subscriber to your channel, do you happen to have the stl model for that cog ?. Need to fix my pc-98 cdrom :)

Oh that's great, thanks for the support. I found a model for this cog online, but it was not exactly like the original, but then I found one in Japan that is IDENTICAL. Unfortunately the modeler hasn't made it available for free, but it's quite cheap at 500 JPY: booth.pm/en/items/5057548

@@carlosbragatto Cool looked for that cog everywhere, going to purchase from the link thanks !.

it might require some adjustments post printing, in my case I had to keep sanding the internal hole until the cog had a bit of "play" on the anchor pole. If it's too tight, the CD tray won't open, it has to be a tiny bit loose. Another thing is that you need to fully recap the drive, most of the times the drive starts to read discs again just by recapping it, no need to replace the laser.

Serviu pra abrir os olhos de muita gente. Foi bem chocante na época.

MR POLICEMEN-SAN, HAI I'M IN JAPAN !!! NO CRIME !!! NO CRIME !!!!

@@carlosbragatto

Thank you! Cheers!

Acho que só os Logitech, eu tenho aqui, vou testar e te falo.

Olha aqui no ML, 280 reais produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-4608224118

Nice meeting you on Facebook! Cheers

Me too

First of all you need to fully disassemble it and wash it under warm water, with plenty of dish soap and scrub every single part with an old toothbrush and a paint brush. And yes, you can wash even the circuit board. Make sure to remove all the buttons and wash and scrub not only the top surface, but the sides, and the hole in the case where the buttons go up and down, you won't believe the amount of grime there. Lastly, put all the parts to dry out on the sun, on a warm day, or over a radiator. When you're sure it's all dry, reassemble and it'll be perfect. Oh and for the magnetic rubber, the best way is to gently scrub them over a printer paper, they'll leave a bit of a dark skidmark, but that's okay. Let me know how it goes.

Ha! That's really interesting. I have this theory that this game is so early in the PS2's develoment cycle that it was developed when the PS2's GPU was not "quite ready" yet. So most of the graphics are probably being rendered by the CPU, not the GPU. Since the CECHC and CECHE PS3s have only the PS2's GPU, and have to use the emulated PS2 CPU, the performance is abysmal. Perhaps the code for Yoshimitsu/Lei/Baek and the final stage scenario were optimised to use more of the PS2 GPU? Who knows! Perhaps something that can be analysed with an emulator! But I'll redo your test to see how it goes, I have a CECHC03 which I'm getting ready to sell, and I have it connect to my video capture device, I'll ping you when I have it going. Once again, thanks for the tip!

@@carlosbragatto Thank you very much for your reply. I have the same taughts as you about that the graphics of TTT was handled by CPU.. Thank you if you will let me know how it worked for you... :)

Até nem é ruim, o foda são os controles toscos no teclado, e a música PSG começar desligada! Mas no geral, é bem melhor que a versão oficial da Taito pra MSX2

é mesmo, concordo@@carlosbragatto

You're absolutely correct, thanks for letting me know. The CECHC and CECHE have only the PS2's Graphics Synthesizer.

Ciao. Non c'è molto da fare, è tutto nella documentazione di PcmciaCD.LHA di Aminet: pcmciacd.device in devs: CD0 in devs:dosdrivers/ CD0.info in devs:dosdrivers/ amicdfs in l: amicdfs.info in l:

@@carlosbragatto quello che ho fatto.. Forse conflita con il kickstart 3.1 o con la tf 1230 o con classic wb. Hai la stessa configurazione? Grazie

It's insanely bad. It really requires a PC98 Sound Blaster.

@@carlosbragatto What I did was disable the music driver and play the SimCity 3000 OST with my Cs2's CD drive.

Nope because this is just a test of the PCMCIA CD drives I sell on eBay sometimes, showing that the drive can access and copy a full 700MB CD to the Amiga's HDD. But there are other videos on my channel of games and demos running on the Amiga 600 (with a PiStorm 600 accelerator) all with sound, have a look! Thanks!

@@carlosbragatto thanks Carlos, wish I'd kept my old 1200 also with PCMCIA CD drive, it would have been worth far more now than what I sold it for 20y ago!

Have you seen Stunt Car Racer? Also buttery smooth !!! th-cam.com/video/9ag20kJ62KM/w-d-xo.html

Hey sorry for the delay in replying. What model of "Sharp" you're using? I ask because on some models the V2 isn't working well, at least for me.