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@@crabcrab2024 yeah, it definitely isn't optimal but it's strong enough to keep fumes out at least. I have far larger and more powerful fan to go in, still waiting to get supplies so I can finish making the baffles inside before finishing the setup. I'll make an update video when it starts showing how to further refine it. It keeps everyone safe for the $40 I spent though, so I'm happy either way.

Everything looks like a drug set up when you don't make drugs 😂 most drug makers have run down setups and use anything they can get ahold of though. I wouldn't be surprised to see a torch and whiskey bottles if they're gonna use glassware. Yeah I have kids though, I'm 31 and I want to inspire them to learn. I was always curious and experimenting with everything. I want them to be able to do what I couldn't growing up and do it safely.

For most unreactive and non corrosive things I use petroleum based jelly to seal, I've tried baby oil but don't like it and it leaks under pressure or vacuum. I've also used sulfuric acid by recommendation, but where I live 220V is uncommon and I couldn't bring the temp high enough to distill sulfuric acid, so I wasted some with that experiment. I've heard some people use some crazy ways to seal their ground glass though, the worst probably being tin foil

@@CondorrK Why don't you get Apiezon or Dow CORNING(R) high vacuum grease? The latest contains silicon and don't dissolve in methanol, perfectly seals for vacuum. Apiezon is mostly for lubrication joint for vacuum works. DowCorning is not expensive and widely available on ebay etc.

@@CondorrK Why not use Dow Corning high vacuum grease? It's not expensive, widely available (ebay etc.) and insoluble in methanol. Also you can get Apiezon. For high vacuum distillations I used apiezon, before discovering dowcorning.

I'm not building it to outperform existing functional fume hoods, a simple carry over is fine here once I get the baffles on and new fan put in. I just have way too much going on to attempt playing in the lab, it's sad unfortunately since I haven't been able to record or experiment in a year now

I'm trying to find the point here, I'm confused if this is supposed to be a message for me or others watching. Everything in my lab was bought for and used exclusively in the lab. I refrain from touching things that are harmful or potentially reactive by cross contamination, if it doesn't fit one of those two things I'd advise the same but I don't follow that protocol except in certain situations. And while I prefer the metric system, I know how both metric and imperial works and how to apply them. There's not much use only knowing one, learn everything you can. I'd advise those using metrics to learn the imperial system simply to avoid confusion if they run across documents or other media, only to be rendered half useless because they don't know how the system works. Better to know better, and function fine, than to try and function fine knowing less.

The funnel is a funnel, made of the same plastic the Heet bottle is. I'd rather use a funnel than dump methanol all over and have to spend 10 minutes cleaning it up.

@@CondorrK But in your video you pour methanol from the bottle straight into the boiler flask without use of any funnel. I mean crude methanol.

​@@konstantinlee2275multiple takes and editing can make a mess of things, especially when you don't realize your phone is almost dead. When I reshot it I didn't have a clean funnel (I only had one then, white PTFE or HDPE I think) and I don't reuse labware until I wash and dry it so it's water and my clean secondary. The methanol I poured in I used the funnel, and the only thing I got video wise are some of the prep and near end of distillation. Everything else I had to reshoot once my phone had charged back up. That's also around the time I realized there's no point in 4k videos if I downscale to 1080 anyway and that hurt my battery also. I have more to learn about chemistry and videography, but one I had a class in at least. 😂 Still learning

Mainly pricing. The wood was sourced locally for free and I already had the Mylar/plastic sheeting. If I had more budget I'd have better invested but budget is also why it's been 11 months since my last upload. Gotta get rid of our Mazda sapping funds. May upload a few tutorials on engine repair and rebuilds since I now have 3 engine blocks, 5 heads, and all have issues but usable parts but the one I spent $500 on to fix the problem originally. So rebuilt and replacing the swap with tucked and partial shaved bay atleast. Once it's confirmed good again it'll be the main and I can finish my Audi then get back into the lab at night 😂 it's been a mess here. Being so constantly overwhelmed is bad, but offers some opportunity when I can remember to film.

Sorry for the late response. Right now, nothing. It's more proof of concept while I refine and verify parts. It'll be redone eventually, but the highest risk to the wood is either a spill amounting to more than 6 liters or corrosive gas not evacuated by the fan system. The fans are being replaced by one unit flowing 850CFM and I'm installing baffles that should further strengthen the system. The exterior is being done with wood laminate, the interior with the same mylar sheet and is being introduced over the current wood structure. My current struggle is my sash. I'm cutting it in half lengthwise, with the top being permanently fixed and the bottom being the movable piece. Getting it in place, movable, and maintaining a seal with the upper vent bypass is where I run into issues. I could also sub the wood for metal, but then corrosion and price becomes a problem so that is best left up to what you use most often. I'll be doing an update in the next month or so, after finishing a honda block rebuild that went horribly wrong. I'll be happy to have new content coming in again, it's been too long

Wood burns but besides that is it that bad? I do my chemistry on a wooden plank. Concentrated sulfuric acid will make black stains but at least it won't dig in too much as it does in metal nor produce flammable hydrogen. Probably not the smartest material but OK for me so far.

I used sheet metal, and it was all food grade stainless steel i had cut to my specs at a local fabrication center that makes roach coaches!(lunch truck vendors)! No more fume magnet!

@@fmdj no problems so far, but the bottom square is Mylar covered. I tucked it over to have a half inch drop for spills. I'd like to do a stainless exterior and keep the plastic coating inside but every setup needs different environments so it all depends on what you typically use and what'll be special case scenario. So far, holds up good when I have time to be in there. Recently focused on a civic rebuild so we can open up our budget.

@@Angrychemist666 nice! Did you look into coatings for it to keep corrosion and spill Dave minimized? I don't remember what all is available, it's been a long time since I did my research on L3 fume hoods

I'm changing my setup to an 8" 950cfm and haven't run much smelly stuff through my current setup to say it's great, but people complain more about stuff they do in the garage than experiments I've done. Worst was probably ammonia gas when I used ammonium nitrate & water for endothermic cooling, no smell outside but I could smell it some inside for sure. Hoping the new fan does much better for moving volume and will be hard sealing the outside

@@CondorrK Thanks for the reply. I just finished building a test inline activated carbon filter. 3 foot of 8in galvanized duct, with a 4 inch galv duct inside with with 5/8 holes drilled through it capped at the end. with 40 mesh stainless screen wrapping the 4 inch. still haven’t tested it yet but hopefully will complete the rest of the build soon.

@@markadams8452 nice. Carbon filters do work but keep in mind they can be very restrictive on the system, I don't remember the literature on exhausting it but people have done secondaries less restrictive that help at the same level for scrubbing gases

I think the inside height is around 3' before adding baffles and everything else. I picked up some upgrades and will be updating this sometime soon when I figure out the revisions. I'll post accurate internal dimensions when I find my tape measure lol

No problem. I just made mine 80cm inside height. (31.5 '')@@CondorrK

It's been a while, how is it coming and how do you like your setup?

I finished it a month ago but have been very busy with work and still have not used it yet. Hopefully in April sometime.@@CondorrK

The vent fans are ABS, and the main plastic I used is Mylar sheeting I believe. If I could afford land away from people I'd get it just to have it 😭 I'm planning a proper rebuild of the hood soon once I finish my PID heating mantle - assuming I can source free materials or print enough money for materials

I really wanted to use 1/4" plexiglass on all six sides, and then use squirrel fans for the air barrier and scrubber but the project fell way out of price range rapidly. Do you have the vent system planned out? I'd be interested in seeing what you've got planned for your build

​@@CondorrKCarbon filter with water based scrubber would keep your neighbors happy at least. You can treat the waste water as needed. Plexiglass reacts to certain acids and petrochemicals, as well as nitriles. I still say living 1,000 yards from anyone is the best option, which doesn't help you. Nitric acid boils are quite easy to see from miles away anyway. Lol!

That sounds interesting! It'll definitely be a fun process experimenting with that. Depending on how different the process is I may do multiple videos