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My 99’ CR-V is perfectly fine on cold starts. But when it gets to operating temperature, it struggles to idle in Drive, but is fine on Park and NEUTRAL. It’s all good when driving but when you stop and the revs go back to idle, it struggles to idle in gear and dies. And when i try to start it back up, it wont start unless it cools for about 10 minutes.

doggie wants to help!

Lol… problem solved first few seconds… 😅

Perfect. 👍

Thank you so much that was my issue just because of a bottom I been digging through wires and different switches

Great video, super helpful, Thanks !!

This is a most detailed and informative video on the early E30 cooling system .

Checked all this still getting no power to fuse 17……

Dude, I have watched so many videos about my issue with the car, not starting, and this is the only one that has recommended to unplug the sensor and try to start. It started right up after two days of continuous replacements.

Do you know if this issue could be the same on gen 2 CRV’s?

what do u call that sensor again? you said it has 2 wires right? thanks

Very helpful

My crv was hit from back and now I replace the trunk but trunk doesn't open nor with thr button or with the key what's the issue do you know the fix?

Great video, I will be referencing this before I upgrade my cooling system here soon. I personally kept buying items I needed, such as bleeder valves, drain plugs, etc, as soon as you mentioned them and ended up with multiple orders to my impatient misfortune. I would really enjoy a section in the front of the video showing all the parts we need beforehand to help itemize all that one would need. Would love to see more of these videos if you work on any other system in the engine bay, as I am currently restoring my 88' 325iX and have been looking for how-to's for the things I am restoring or upgrading.

Thank you!!

My back trunk door wouldn’t open. I got it to open actually by locking, Unlocking doors, sever times. Then the back passenger door got locked I manually unlocked it and the trunk door was unlocked again.

01 crv, I drive it home from work but if I try to start it again it won’t start, could replacing distributor cap, wires and spark plugs help?

Have a 97 honda that would shut off on me on the freeway when it got too hot… never owned a honda before… but thought it would be the crank shaft position sensor and I even changed the main relay as well… boy was I wrong… after searching online I learned and tested that it was the ignition igniter… these , after learning, are common issues on honda of this year when it gets to hot it will shut off as a precautionary… I had purchased a from Autozone but I replaced it 4 times because they wouldnt last… ending going through Ebay and buying an OEM igniter for my make and model… more pricier but havent had my car shut off since that day… I also replaced the ignition coil for a NGK one… glad I was able to find that brand and part for the car…

You just save me a lot of time. Great video

Hell yea I need to do this to my coupe driver side been stuck shut and clicking… hoping the gears are still good tho 😅🙌

Can u help me

Did you have your check engine light pop on before you figured this out?

This worked for me! 2001 CR-V been having this issue and already tried the throttle position sensor. My part cost $47 at Auto Zone.

Hot thanks😊😊 3:40

Got this issue today. Hot weather, came home from work, 30min later the car didn't start at all. Battery good. Now dashboard is dead, but i get lights on it for a split second after unplugging the sensor and plugging it in again. EDIT: Honda code for the sensor is 37870-PJ7-003

Thank you, saved me a couple $$$.

Hardly a piece of crap is it???? Turd

Thank you bro I was already going crazy whit this thing. I have the same issue on my 98 civic

3 windows went out at one and rear passenger works.. what could it be?

Thank you

wee bit jank but impressive

Spoiler. It's the red tactile switch under the rubber pad on the tailgate. It starts to fail under 45F.

None of my e30s came with the extra thermostat and never had a problem . You should just delete it

Damn F#%@ good :D

Doesn’t taking off the distributor cap mess up the timing?

Brilliant! Fixed it straight away! Thanks So Much! Great Advice! ✌😎

Very helpful!

Oooooh Im so dumb. It was the circuit breaker

Really Helpful Thanks, I'll try this and leave a comment later 👍😎

did you 50/50% coolant and antifreeze ?also how much Litres takes the whole system?

Is that sensor called the ETC sensor? I’m having a similar issue, sporadic start issues with a warm engine, but it’s also a difficult start when cold. Dies quickly. Finally stays running after several cranks. My PGM FI light came on yesterday too, for the second time in a month. My mechanic thinks I need a new starter, but I’m not sure about that diagnosis. Any Thoughts? I have a 1987 Honda SI 1.5 Fuel injected.

Absolutely amazing video. So damn helpful

thanks for this vid. it saved me. recently got a e30 318i and dont know much of these cars

thanks for this!! i’m still working on mine, but every other video i’ve found has the newer style regs, and i’m thinking that’s my issue since i already rebuilt my motors

Sounds like my same issue. Replaced so many things, and nothing worked. Thanks for the video. Hope this works.

Update: after the install I found that the fan was rubbing the upper hose sometimes, a few zipties corrects this issue. Also the hoseclamps will loosen as the hoses break in, you should retighten them a month or two after installation. Lastly, after this video I started having my temp creep past the 3/4 mark when idling. My immediate diagnosis was air trapped in the cooling system, but replacing my fun clutch fixed the issue.

No continuity going from after the motor. sad

Thanks man. trying it out tomorroe

THANK YOU

Great stuff man. I’m referencing this as I do my 91 325i