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เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2011
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L Spark Plug Replacement
Replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Jeep WJ 4.7L V8 at 200k miles. The old plugs (Bosch Platinum) were installed at 100k miles. The factory service manual (and the general Jeep community) recommends Champion copper core on the standard 4.7L engine ... I ran platinums for 100k miles and had no problems, but this time went back to FSM recommendation.
I offer this video as an unprofessional guide that might help somebody else out there. There may be better ways to do these things, this is how I did it. Good luck, do not blame me if you muck it up.
I offer this video as an unprofessional guide that might help somebody else out there. There may be better ways to do these things, this is how I did it. Good luck, do not blame me if you muck it up.
มุมมอง: 15 124
วีดีโอ
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement
มุมมอง 24K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Video #3 in my very limited library of repair vids. This time I am replacing the rear lower control arms on my WJ. Experiencing pronounced left/right lurching when on/off the throttle? It could be your LCAs. I disconnect the sway bar because it fights me when I try to reposition the axle to unload the tension on the LCA bolts. You can try the job with the sway bar attached ... but it's a lot ha...
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Water Pump Replacement
มุมมอง 76K10 ปีที่แล้ว
EDIT: As everyone is pointing out, just remove the alternator to gain the clearance to remove the pump, do NOT remove the power steering line, more trouble than it's worth. What can I say, I'm not exactly an expert on these things. Happy Jeeping. My 2nd repair vid. Today we replace the water pump on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8. Note that there are *8* bolts holding the water pump...
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Thermostat Replacement
มุมมอง 268K11 ปีที่แล้ว
We walk through the steps of replacing a leaky thermostat in a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L V8. Hope it helps a little. This is my first video ... sorry if it's choppy or blurry or inaudible in places.
I’m not knocking proper mechanics and the way it should be done but there’s no need now if it was something high performance I’d agree but little thread locker never let me down and nothing needs to be overly cranked on then you’ll be snapping boltz … I just did bleeder valve bypass on my 02 overland cause some just don’t use the right size I tried everything extractor JB weld a nut nope I thought I was going to have to tap n drill it out didn’t know they made a bypass … thanks for video
Sooo what kinda beer was that because it looks refreshing as hell
Спасибо джипбро🤝
How are the Detroit Axke arms holding up? Bout to order them up myself
WJ use gold HOAT COOLANT
Fact: WJ use Mopar MS-9769 orange coolant
@@GmanWJ I swore the manual said specifically gold HOAT. Maybe I'm wrong but I've read multiple forums that specifically name zerex g05
@@ktdgolive405 If you drain and flush with distilled water you can swap to zerex HOAT, but do not mix it with your orange Mopar factory-supplied coolant.
How are the Detroit axle brand?
Reviews from my Jeeper associates are mixed. I like them fine. I still have them on the front CAs. Anything else there gave me a scary case of the shimmies.
Never buy from Rock auto.
yeah I had those bosch plugs in the 4.0l and it made it run like crap instantly. I took them out the next day and put in autolites and no issues. I guess the 4.7l doesn't mind.
What did you use and how did you rewrap do the wire looms
What size socket do you need for spark plug
I used a 5/8" to great effect
Thank you man, this showed me how to drain just enough to replace thermostat in a 02 Jeep WJ (Laredo) I do have a few questions: 1. What kind of HOAT coolant did you use? I need the brand and # so I can buy it (what's the amount you put in) 2. Where did you get the Thermostat and what quality is it? My fan didn't turn on well past 250°F today. It's supposed to switch on after 220°f I believe. I turned off the Jeep instantly and let it cool. No coolant leak just had AC on while idling for 30min. ▪︎ The temp guage went to 260°F which is the end of the temp guage. After letting it cool for an hour and checking radiator fluid I turned her on and drove home 2 blocks. I'm wanting to make sure the thermostat works and the electric fan. I'll need coolant to check the thermostat and change it. I want a good quality thermostat so I don't have to worry about that failing and can diagnose the fan not switching on. Any tips? Id very much appreciate the info on HOAT coolant, amount of coolant and thermostat brand, website.
These guys can answer all your questions better than I. I use Mopar coolant from the Jeep dealer. Stant is a good thermostat. Your head gaskets are probably already leaking, do not let it get that hot. www.jeepforum.com/forums/wj-grand-cherokee-forum.310/
Great video I think I'll change it up a little bit and have the beer before I start? ✌️🤠👍
Great video. Thanks for your time !
Great video. Thanks for your time !
Also why is your thermostat on the bottom. Mine is on top by valve cover. I have the same year as well. I've replaced mine before just needed a refresher and this just blew me away. I don't get your thermostat location here.
Do you have a 4.7L V8 like mine? 4.0L inline 6 may have a different thermostat location.
Water pump. It's coming from the seep hole in the water pump. That's what's it for 😉
you all need to bleed the air out!!!!!!
Good job ... great video
You have a video on getting passenger side exhaust bolts off ? It's one hell of a fit and at a angle. Can't come from top on my jeep or tire well 🤔 😕
I did mine. That rear passengers side plug sucked with the dipsticks on top of it and the pcv tube. Got it done though.
nice video but you need to know the bolt head size to inform your viewers of the correct tools to use ( 8MM ) NOT 9MM
Check list: thermostat Wire brush Hose Bucket Radiator fluid Is there anything I should get besides this stuff. Just encase something doesn't go as planned.🥴
Pliers, 9mm socket or wrench. Some people would advocate for a new thermostat housing and 9mm bolts, and new radiator hose since you are down there and the fluid is out. You will need a larger set of pliers to remove the hose clamps if you do that
Where did you hook the straps up to ?????
Great video!! Thanks. Do the coils ever need to be replaced? My 02 is at 133K and I’m not sure they’ve ever been changed.
Did you have a tail wag, is that why you changed them? I need to change mine I have the parts already
No I had a push/pull when on/off the throttle due to the failed bushings. Worn bushings may cause wag, both upper and lower CAs. Rear upper ball joint is also a suspect for wag
Why wouldn't you take off the house.
How are those Detroit axles? Ive bought brakes n rotors about 2 years ago from them and still good
Can you do a video on how to change the radiator fan and camshaft position sensor please
The skid plate is easy to remove! Also a 180 degree thermostat is a great upgrade!
How long would you say from start to finish did the job take? Great vid.
Great video. thank you.
No housing gasket???
Rubber gasket was built into my thermostat.
Hey i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee i have rear noise skeak grind when turning its a weird noise what could probably be
You may need to change fluids in the rear differential. 75w-140 plus Mopar friction modifier if you have limited slip diff or Quadradrive.
I made a rocky mistake, I swapped the bolts by accident, the rear is longer than the front one. Jajajajaja, but I did the job. Thanks 🙏🏼.
No se vio cuando quito el tornillo de arriba
Good recording and perfect fix
I am starting to do some DIY on my jeep, and I thought changing the spark plugs should be easy enough for my first try, and given that your video explains the process so well. I need to buy some tools and I am curious about your note for plug #8 where you recommend "Swivel socket, extension, u-joint, extension. I found a magnetic swivel socket set with 4", 6" and 10" extensions on Amazon. Do you think I should be ok with that? You mentioned "extension" twice in your note, was that a mistake or did you mean 2 extension should be used, and what is a u-joint? Thanks for any advice - I don't want to start removing anything unless I am sure I have the proper tool to do the job :)
First: I recommend a swivel socket specifically for spark plugs, they usually have a foam insert that gently grips the spark plug to keep it from falling out. I guess a magnetic socket would work, I have never used one like that. Second: the double extension note for #8 was not a mistake; tool assembly order is swivel socket, extension, u-joint, extension, ratchet. The extension lengths in the socket set you found should get you through the job, but I do highly recommend at least one locking extension to plug into the spark plug socket because when you tighten the spark plugs, the socket has a firm grip on the plug and a standard extension will often let go of the socket when you try to pull it out, leaving the socket down in the hole. It can be a hassle getting it out. If you do not have a locking extension, you can try wrapping the junction with black electrical tape to keep the socket attached, that often works. A "u-joint" (universal joint) is a swiveling joint that allows you to put a small bend between the socket and the ratchet. Do a search for "3/8 universal joint" Example: www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Universal-Socket-8-Inch-CMMT99291/dp/B07QDVS6RS/ref=sr_1_14_mod_primary_new?crid=1V0L1WB5US2Q3&dchild=1&keywords=3%2F8+universal+joint&qid=1611520165&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=3%2F8+u%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-14 Do not crossthread or overtighten the plugs during installation. Good luck.
Did you have any kind of knocking sound from the rear when that bushing came apart?
No knocks for me with this one. Instead, the vehicle would jerk to the side when off/on the throttle.
Knocks in the rear, common causes are shocks and the upper ball joint and/or upper control arm.
Appreciate the video - ty. A few suggestions/observations: FSM says to blow out spark plug well with compressed air before removing plug to avoid any debris falling into the cylinder. 100K on a set of plugs seems a little long (even for platinum. I change my copper plugs around 30-40K. I *think* the FSM calls for a change interval at 30K for the recommended champion copper plugs. People doing this may want to be aware that with jeeps of this vintage, the insulation on some of the ignition coil wires will most likely crack off. Be prepared to deal with that. It happened on both of my 04's, one with 120K, the other with 140k miles. Repair options include getting new connector pigtails or heat-shrink electrical tape, or rubber tape followed by a covering of good electrical tape.
thanks! great vid. i'll ask the garage!, not for me...
Great video. Info was clear and nothing unnecessary
Dex-cool and or red coolants will eat your gaskets and more. Always use green antifreeze/coolant.
Did you swap the rear sway bar?
Yes I have an Addco 684 in there.
@@GmanWJ how ya like it?
@@PNW4130 It was great if you only run on asphalt, corners wonderfully. If you go off-road at all, it is too stiff. So I switched to the smaller Addco 634 which is still very impressive on the highway. Really all you need unless you think your 20 year old WJ is a race car (it is not).
Good evening, where did you attach the other end of your ratchet strap too? I'm in the process of doing this job myself. Great video 👍🏽. Thanks for sharing
Sorry for not replying earlier. I hooked one end to the sway bar and the other end to ... well probably the transfer case skid plate, but I think you could use the "frame rails" on the side. There are a couple of holes there for rock slider mounting points that should work
Good video sir, I like how thorough you were. And the fact that you used a torque wrench. A lot of people use elbow grease. Being a mechanic myself, I sent this video to a buddy because he isn't that mechanically inclined.. but people don't realize how much of a pain it is to go behind someone who over torqued bolts that get stuck or stripped out. Torque wrenches are a necessity for any mechanic.
Very helpful! And thanks for the warning about getting coolant running down the armpit.
What is loading the suspension!?!
When the vehicle is sitting with wheels on the ground without jacks or jack stands. The suspension is loaded when all of the weight is supported by the springs.
Love this video. I just finished mine and only took me about an hour and a half thanks to your in depth walk through i was able to have all the tools i needed layed out
What do you mean by "critical to load suspension"? Putting it back under weight before you tightened the bolts?
Yes, exactly. You must make sure the vehicle weight is back on the wheels before you tighten everything up. If you don't, your bushings will quickly fail and you will have to repeat this repair.
@@GmanWJ wrong. Makes no difference
@@OSDCrusher Sorry, but this misinformation is 100% wrong.
Doing this repair this weekend. You're a life saver. Thanks for sharing.