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The stair riser is 7.25" and the tread depth is 3.5".

It's $6k (on special $1k off) I will ride it 100 miles a week for a decade so it's worth it to me.

Nice!

I bought the stairs a couple of years ago and I believe it was in the $10k range. It was much heftier than I thought it would be since it was for a 9' ceiling - an 8' ceiling would be a smaller stringer.

@@doughahn2566 thank you

Definitely. The boxes are made out of real plywood (1/2" for hidden panels, 3/4" for exposed panels). The frames are real wood and look great. You can select exactly what you want. Assembly is more involved than IKEA but much sturdier. I think the only thing I would upgrade would be the wall cabinet hinges. They are soft close but they don't snap apart for easy door removal. The person I worked with did a great job. You need to be very detail oriented when ordering. Shop around - I'm sure you can find cheaper but not for what I consider "real" cabinets. I also love that they can size anything to 1/16" so all my cabinets fit without filler strips.

@doughahn2566 thanks for responding. I like that they have the new frameless line! Looks like they are my best option for an rta cabinet online. Was the lead time accurate. Right now there website say 4-6 weeks

I don't remember having any issues with scheduling or delays.

That is great input. None of that assembly is glued yet and I have not made the hole for the hub. Would you be willing to draw a schematic of a preferred assembly? I do have concerns about how to do this and could use some help.

What about using a 6x6x24 wireway under the cabinet to collect all the conduits and route them through one nipple into the cabinet? I was concerned about being able to bend 250kcmil wire if it comes in the bottom and connecting to the sub feed lug.

@@doughahn2566 I wouldn't redo what is existing. I don't think its possible to get 250s through that L even if the size wasn't reduced. a 6" wireway would still be a nightmare to work with. A large square one would give you room to bend the wires.Add to that the fact that it enters in such a tight space inside the panel, you are screwed :) I have done this kind of thing my whole life, thousands of times. When you open the panel you will find that the most room you have to work with is at the bottom and even that is limited because of the old skinny design of that style panel.. Just by what I can see, a large box would be your best option. There will be a large knockout at the bottom of the panel below the bus. If you enter the top left side of a large JB and exit the bottom right, the wires will have room to bend in the box and 'maybe' in the bottom space of the panel. Where is the breaker installed and how will you get the 250's terminated to it? Were you trying to go straight into a breaker on the right side? That might work but you will need some space to manipulate the wires and the L just wont work. Dont forget that you still need to get your neutral and ground connected. If that panel is full, that will also be a chore. Im retired and spend a lot of time on YT so I'd be happy to answer any questions. I hate seeing people struggle :) Also remember that you can relocate existing breakers to make room in the right places. That particular panel style is WAY to small to work with but you can almost always squeeze one more thing in :) Another inexpensive option would be to install yet another sub panel on the right side and run the new conduit into it from the bottom. There are always options.

@@doughahn2566 I'll help you out. Email would be best because you can send pics

I have some questions but I don't want to post my email on youtube so I'll just ask here. 1) The reason I wanted to come in from the side is so I don't have to do a tight bend in the narrow panel box and can just connect directly to the sub feed lug. Can I do this with a water tight myers hub? I googled it and it seemed like it should be ok as long as it is watertight and done in a workman like manner. Is there a different reason that prevents making a hole on the side? 2) The neutral and ground I was just going to terminate inside the panel to the sides of the panel with a simple copper lug. Since this is the main panel, they need to be bonded and the box is already used as the neutral and ground. 3) I could use a 12x12 jbox instead of the L conduit body and that should give me extra room for a bend and then just go in the side without a bend in the panel box. 4) The existing panel is only half used (the existing house was built in the 60's and is only using 2 circuits). So I have plenty of space but I will need to add a sub panel when I remodel the existing house.

The siding inlet is just a standard Home Depot fixture. I manually fabricated the sheet metal box that it fits into by hand.

I bought it from hvacquick.com

No dimmers initially. Everything is built and sized for dimmers but I wanted to start off with $3 switches and then figure out where I need expensive dimmers later.

I also have a gas fireplace, and gas water heater. I don't think they can backdraft as they are vented to the outside and sealed at the connections. So hopefully that isn't a concern I need to have

@@jameslewis7056 I would be very concerned about doing this with gas appliances in the house. Anything which relies on gravity venting of combustion byproducts would be a no go for me. The only way I would do it would be if the gas appliance supply air was fully sourced from the house exterior. That way an internal house depressurization would not affect the venting of the appliance. I would definitely consult a professional for your situation. In terms of pulling cold air into the house - that can be an issue and you could pre-heat the air. In my situation, the exterior air would never be below freezing (in my climate, I only get below freezing for short periods in the middle of the night), and most of the exterior air is going to be pulled directly to the exhaust. I would think that diverting the air through the HVAC would be suboptimal because then most of your vented air would be existing warm house air and the cold new air would be distributed through the HVAC ducting. My main caveat is that I have a simplified system with no gas appliances so I feel comfortable with it.

Also, I'm just doing bathroom tiling and electrical fixtures right now so I have not turned on the system yet.

That’s standard for smaller restaurants before all the fancy fire suppression codes

Yes, that's the only place that needs a high CFM input.

@@doughahn2566 if we have two kitchen exhaust not far from each other can we supply fresh air for both using one system?

I would not want to say since I am only an owner builder working on my own house.

​@@shenoyglobal its better to have one damper for hood range that way they can be turn on independently when a hood range turns on

My house qualifies under exception (b). I could install an active fan but I'm having a difficult time imagining what use case would convince me it was needed. The house could be under pressurized and could cause uncontrolled leakage into the house but that is just standard for normal houses. All of my windows and doors (except for the slider) open to the inside of the house so it's not going to keep me from opening the envelope. I have no gas vented appliances that could back draft. Perhaps the house could depressurize to the point that my ears would pop, but that seems unlikely. I'm unconvinced that there is a problem that needs an extra component that needs maintenance. It seems like worst case I would need to run the fan at its lowest setting so that the house pressure could equalize before closing the dampers.

@@doughahn2566 What is strange with these residential codes is that, bathroom and dryer exhausts are not factored in.