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How did you hold the valve to put the spring and retainer back on?

Idiotic engine design. Timing belt sitting submerged in motor oil.

Low on oil and exhaust valve will stick in place and kill engine Guide needs replacement and engine rebuild 😢😢😢 Keep them level when checking oil levels on all engines folks 😊

Well done

It's very inconvenient to disassemble the entire engine to clean a exauhst valve. I won't be buying any honda parts for my gcv 160 it will probably go the the correct resting yard.

i hit my oil dipper and snapped it off ,, i ended up making my own dippper out of metal that bolted on with the connecting rod bolts

The intake clearance on a GC160 is 0.006 in. and NOT 0.015. Exhaust is 0.008 in. and NOT 0.20. What's going on?

You didn't show the most important part...How did you put the piston back in. There is no room for ring compression tool.

Have better lighting system

I take the flywheel off while engine is still mounted to deck.

All this fucking work just to replace a valve. Would be really mice if honda could make the cylinder and head itself a removable part, like most other engines. Sheesh

When I bought my mower I thought OHV was great but integrated head/cylinder and a timing belt? What a cheapo crap design. When my GCV160 gives me any fits past the carb the mower is going in the trash.

I believe your valve clearances are wrong.

Supposed to be .008 exhaust .006 intake

Those engines are a pain.Honda designed them as a throw away,therefore no cylinder head so you have to totally dismantle them from the bottom to do anything.

Encore un gros nul qui s'écoute parler pour ne rien dire...

1235.00 in labor for a 300 dollar engine

My 3 year old honda backfired when i cut it off. It had a little knock and then it would not start. I am guessing i bent a valve? ?

Thank you for the comprehensive video, but I could not believe this was such a ridiculously long process just to replace a valve. I will never buy one of these mowers again. what idiot designed this. I could replace a valve in a ls v8 with less effort.

sorry charly Intake 6 exhaust 8

Hey, your tutorial worked for me and I've never repaired an engine. 40$ in parts instead of 400$+ for a new mower. Thank you!

Thanks for the video. Couple of questions. What were the symptoms beforehand and did they immediately go away after replacement? Was the D5 light blinking?

It would be cheaper just to buy a new engine who would pay that much labor!!!

I have a Honda Harmony 2 with a bent Crank. I have decided the mower is worth replacing the crankshaft. My next trick us finding the time.

Thanks for this video! I just replaced the upper half of my buddies 190. Helped me figure out a couple little details.

can't believe he split the crankcase before removing the flywheel

Hi Mr! Great video! The belt are working in oil?

The code is P0706 ?

the valve seat has come out and that is why you think its a bent valve mine actually broke the rocker arm the first time then the timing belt the second time [it came out again] I am working on it now and I think I am going to pin it in this time

nice video overall...but..as another view pointed out...it looks like the new valve needs to be lapped to ensure proper seal--the old valve looks like it has a pronounced lip..the new valve simply has an angled slope...needs to be lapped or it will burn out and you won't have proper compression.

Looks like at 7:50 the valve guide is way out and needs pressing back into the head so you don't break your new rocker arm. This is really common with these engines on the exhaust side especially when running the engine too hot.

Does it say 189cm on the block ? I can't find any info on my engine I think it's a gcv190 but idk

never run sand paper through the valve guides and you should of lap that valve in first and whats going on with the marks on the flywheel. looks like the mag was dragging on it at one time. I'm starting to wonder if your valve was really bent?

cant believe you didn't lap the valve into the seat. im waiting for it to burn due to leakage..

Does the head not come off of this engine???

To add a little bit more detail to the procedure. I never disconnected the transmission shift rod from the lever. I unbolted the plastic cover in the middle of the lever connecting the shift rod to the sensor. Then using a very fine flathead screwdriver(you may ruin the screwdriver), pry the bent aluminum tab away from the nut on the rod through the sensor. Take off the 12mm nut, the piece that was bent, the lock washer, and the lever. Using 22mm wrench take off the large nut that compresses the sensor collet to the trans shaft. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the sensor to trans. If the sensor won’t come lose, you will have to thread the 22mm nut partially on and use a 2 or 3 jaw puller latching behind the nut and pressing the center on the shaft. Note-do not remove the thin metal pointer. Assembly is in reverse, and will need rotational adjustment of sensor to align shifter with dash lights; otherwise shifting will be off and might get a check engine light.

too much talk and no work

Where can I get new valves ?

Great tutorial Tom! One of the valves broke off on my GCV 160 and I replaced both. I followed your instructions exactly and now my pressure washer is running awesome!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!

Thanks for making the video, it's a great help 👍.

you could have gone to a local shop to WEld back the splash rod $10 bucks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So did the damn thing start up?? I hate when y’all make these videos and don’t show STARTUP

Same problem is it with it in parts care less about my time

A oil slinger and a diper at the same? Is that necadary

How did you remove the outer most nut on the TRS shaft. It's a 12mm nut... that holds metal securing tab>pressure washer>shifter metal lever>TRS? The metal securing tab is heavy duty on the 2007 MDX. Any tricks or tips would be greatly appreicated.

Excellent video. While attempting unstick a sticking intake valve (with valve OHV cover off) I broke the tip of the intake valve. I decided to chance replacing both valves (IN&OUT) but wasn't sure what I was up against. (Both valves purchased from "Parts Tree"; $23 with shipping). The video explained all that I needed to know, succinctly. Thanx to Tom Lang. (Caveat: I do have engine repair experience, but appreciated Tom pointing out the places where you can "screw up.") F. Rakoczy

So, you do not need to seat the valve seat?

I have one and It started right up yesterday then kept stalling. I also noticed that when I pull the string I don't feel the push back from the compression stroke. I'm thinking it lost compression. I even put some gas on the plug and tried it it did nothing except a few sputters. I know it has spark. the exhaust valve has alot of clearance even after adjusting the bolt. I think the exhaust valve is not closing all the way. where can you get parts for these engines?

Great video Tom! I just purchased a pressure washer with what i thought was a seized GCV160. I removed the spark plug and sprayed some penetrant spray in there. I was able to finally turn the engine via the main crankshaft/flywheel bolt, however it does not turn completely over. I looked inside the spark plug hole and i can see a piece of a broken valve sitting on top of the piston. Would you recommend continuing on with this repair at the moment? Where did you purchased your valves? Thanks

The valve lash is .006 and .008. In mm it's .15 and .20