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@@ahmedalyousef1286 I’m glad to hear that!

@@MrFixItTheRealtorhi, so when you say a little slack, how much slack? Did you just estimate it? I read that it was 1/2 in. When the door is opened. But how can you measure that? Pls reply. Thanks

​@@ktp0913 Hi there, I didn't measure how much slack but enough so that it didn't actually feel super tight nor did I hear any noise from it that sounded like it was pulling hard on any of the gears. I think 1/2" would be sufficient for slack.

@@MovingtoBethesda thanks for the quick reply. 👍🏼

@@leeming7473 boom!

@@carolyncahill9301 the earth tone colors work nicely here!

@@BoomChing oh no!!

😂

@@cacaiashi7427 thanks for checking it out! In the case of my door, it ended up being an indication of another issue with the actual door itself which somebody seemed to have hit and that caused the chain to sag. It was more of a temporary band aid for the problem. I would carefully inspect the door to see that there is no buckling or sagging and that the rails are fully secure. The other option is something just came out of adjustment at the opener.

Nice work!

Good luck! If you over tighten it can cause it to snap so just be careful.

Glad it helps! It takes some time but it’s doable. Just make sure you have an even and level base to put it on.

@@MrFixItTheRealtor thank you! btw, I'm your subscriber #500! 🎉🥂

@@frostbitedos amazing! Thank you!

That was the first thing I saw, and thought the same thing. Get the proper size wrench!

Yes, you can download in the App Store.

Fantastic!

Yes, some neighborhoods are more active than others depending upon mixed use and commercial space.

That’s a great idea!

Glad it helped!

You may get a little resistance from the clips but it should open with a slight bit of force. If it hasn't been opened in a long time, this could be why.

It’s easier with the door closed as it will otherwise get in your way. Be careful not to make too tight or you could snap the sprocket on top of the opener motor.

@@MrFixItTheRealtor thank you!! This video is very helpful!

@@davidortiz4935 my pleasure!

I have no bolt. It’s some plastic piece with a couple of tiny screws. I can’t find any video with this piece.

The tension on both sides needs to be equal. Otherwise the cord is under immense tension and when it gets cold it's going to snap resulting in an expensive repair. The easiest way to know if the tension is equal is to have same amount of slack on both sides.

So the coils actually didn’t need to be cleaned in this instance as all the dirt was really on the blower wheel. You can buy cool cleaner at the hardware store as well as a brush for use on the coils if needed but you need to be very careful as you can end up bending or mashing the coils.

Full disclosure, I moved from the house where it was, but the only notable thing was the fading of the wood. Some of the thinner boards make a little bit of creaking and felt a little weaker but in all it held up well while we used it. Staving and sealing may help to preserve but I just didn’t have time to do all that.

Sorry about that. I’ve tried to lower that in the past and I missed it here. Will see if I can still lower it.

Mvleus, What useful videos have you made?

WAAAAAAAAAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stfu u pussy. He’s doing all of us a favor

😂

ikr?! I'm pressing charges.

I was wearing headphones and be glad you weren't

Hi Lisa, unforunately, I'm not aware of any other method to clean it outside of removing the blower wheel in it's entirety. It may be possible to not take it off and take a brush to remove some of the build up on the wheel but you won't be able to get everything off. Subsequently, it will blow some residual dirt for a short time when it is run again if you do this.

Hi. I have a fujitsu mini split that gets to smelling if I don't keep it clean. We live in an area without local AC cleaners/repairmen and I haven't been brave enough to take it all apart (yet!). Here's how I clean it while leaving it [mostly] in one piece: First I turn off the breaker (power/electricity to it) and remove the big plastic cover (check for a couple screws on the sides/front and plastic clips at the top back near the wall). I leave the electrical bits covered because I don't want to get them wet. Then I unclip the louvers for the air-direction & put them aside to clean later. I use coil-cleaner (purchased from Amazon & diluted in a spray bottle to the correct strength) and spray all the little metal fins and things. I layer several folded towels underneath to catch the drips as the cleaner runs through. I let it sit for a few minutes, then I spray a little more and let it sit a little longer while I clean the cover & louvers I've removed. Next I get a toothbrush and a flashlight and do the best I can to clean the blower wheel by reaching up from the bottom/underneath the unit. It will be a wet mess from the cleaner spray, so be careful. It is difficult & takes a long time, but I scrub the blower wheel fairly thoroughly. I also take a soft cloth and wipe down whatever plastic parts I can reach from underneath. Then I use clean water in a spray bottle to do a little rinsing. I spray it on the coils, like I did the cleaner, and let it drip through. At this point, I usually have to change the towels underneath. The water drips running out of the AC should be looking a little cleaner by now. I also spray the blower wheel and wipe it down to remove whatever residue I can. I let it dry before putting the cover back on. The cleaning fluid has a pretty strong chemical smell which can be unpleasant, so best to do it on a day you can have your windows open, if possible. It takes a couple hours, all together, but it goes a long way to helping with the smell. I usually do this once at the beginning of summer, to remove the dirt from the winter's heating use, and at least once more during our long summer. BUT!!! I don't know whether I'm slowly killing my AC by doing this. I've been doing this for a couple years; I haven't had any problems, but I may discover that I've been slowly destroying some particular element--I don't know. I don't *think* there's anything wrong with this procedure, but I know nothing about HVAC stuff.

I’m glad to hear it!

I haven’t done this on the Daikin so I can’t say. I suspect it’s a little different based on the blower wheel. These all have somewhat different proprietary parts.

Unfortunately, I don’t know the answer to this question. I would imagine if you don’t have a plan that it won’t notify but that’s just a guess.

I would rebuild it the same way you see it here. This is typically done with Portland cement or something like that and there wouldn’t be a good way to put a lip on there. Plus, as it is, the water rolls off so an overhang isn’t necessary.

Thanks for the information on how to do this with a Sanyo!

Glad it was helpful!

Yeah it’s always a pain whenever a bulb breaks and especially with the ones with pins.