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Mapped them out (customer request)

@mechanicallymindedmike9677 People are fucking weird bro. They are literally necessary to start the car

Depends on use really. Could be 5 miles, 50 miles 5000 miles. Hard to say sorry

Too many variables to help you diagnose. Start with a diagnostics scan/read. Describe the oise also pls

Then your throw out bearing stuck to pressure plate and squeals under acceleration. Haven't had chance to go through paperwork yet, sry m8

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 don’t worry about part number. Thought it could be pilot bearing from watching videos of the squeal when just revving and without foot on clutch. couldn’t find that part online so confused why it doesn’t exist - I’ve got Peugeot 107 which is same as aygo…Your comment has been helpful: seems to suggest just a regular clutch replacement kit might fix it. Didn’t see any forums say thrust bearing could be stuck- didn’t realise they could stick. Would’ve thought that’s issue with the fork.(my gears work ok, bit fiddly putting it in reverse though so I’m speculating this could be the reason)

I'll have to check my invoices. Will get back to you tmr m8

With great difficulty... deffo worth buying the correct timing tools to do this job and take anythingthats in the way, outof the way.

Set the timing before you undo anything fella. Really important step to take. When timing set, check tension at that point. Adjust accordingly to timing belt instructions for vag belts. Can u send u a pdf if needed

Have you replaced the brake shoes as well. And then re calibrated the new epb with the new shoes. Some say it's not required, but I do it anyways and I know my work is safe

Yes it was not working with the old shoes so they were replaced but still no luck. How do u go about recalibrating the epb pal because it seems that the motor and everything is working but not putting enough tension on the cable to engage the shoes. Thanks

Should be checking shoe adjuster next then. So in order, remove old unit, remove old shoes (and adjust fully back on shoe adjuster) refit new unit, refit new shoes. B3fore anything else, adjust manual adjuster so shoes are just starting to bind. Using decent diagnostic kit. Handbrake in n off via the diag tool. This then sets the correct tension.

Yes, really important you do too. Drop me a PM via my business page on FB mate. We'll see if I'm close enough to come help. Www.facebook.com/mechanicallymindedmike

😅

Now, last year or about 3 years b4 that.

Just sell the car and save yourself a big bill mate

8mm 10mm or 12mm. Really can't remember. Sry

Even after using stp oil flush. Oil still come out lile syrup. But warm and steamy .. lol

Wish I said ti customer soon it's not worth saving. Cos shortly after driving bottom end knock. Shit load of fresh oil in intercooler, and loads blue smoke

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 Stupid question I'm about to ask. Has this thing ever had an engine oil and filter service in it's life, because how dumb can people really fucking be to neglect a car.

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 I'm calling BS on that. Hasn't been changed for about 30,000 miles I'd recon (just spitballing a number). What year is the car and what was the engine at by this time.

It's hit n miss tbh butt. Some people are really lucky and others are not. Injectors fail, but this is common in any diesel car thou. Maintenance is vital! In any vehicle..

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 cheers for the reply , i’ve just bought a 2017 20d XF with 31k , runs great but the reviews on the engine are terrible , on the flip side i had a Volvo 1.6D with the psa engine , had 160k on , oil changed every year & was still champion , when i bought it with 30k on i was told they were terrible engines & would always be forking out , in 7 years i never had any bother

How have you wired the camera in? Have you used the reverse switched live from stereo? Or using the reverse light itself?

Hiya mate not sure as a friend wired it in for me, i think he went from the bulb though. Also my factory settings are different to yours are there any secret ones that android have? Is it better to go via rev live switch?

100% use rev line fro. Headunit. Radio controls it then through canbus network so should speed u up a bit m8

Cheers mate, much appreciated. My other question is if i got parking sensors added (aftermarket) it has a lil speaker control box, can this be added to the head unit so they work with the reverse cam lines and the picture of sensors displayed

I'd have to be looking at what was there to figure out best way to integrate them tbh mate. Wouldn't like to advise you with looking first. You can use the switched live from headunit yes. But the sensors themselves need (ideally needs) to be wired in witj relay, switched live and perm live and I'm sure it can be possible to Integrate to speakers yes, but can't coach without seeing it thou (sry mate)

If u can get it out through the top. Please share. I couldn't see any way possible. But I'm always willing to learn from others.

There's such a long section after the dpf see, I can't see how you'd fish it out through top. Unless u chopped dome off maybe. Really don't think it can mann

It's been nearly 3 years since I worked on this sorry butt. Really can't remember. So sorry

@mechanicallymindedmike9677 thank you.

South Wales m8

Thanks m8

Not. Just a cheap 1 from ebay m8

Something magical

Half an hours labour fella. Plus part

Horrific design!

Horrid job init...

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 The worst. I wrote an articel in the german hyundai forum, to warn everybody. I asked another hyundai dealer and they told me, that their typical procedurce is to destroy the metal cover of then the nut, if it didn´t worked initialy with the impact wrench.

@@mechanicallymindedmike9677 Just to be on the safe side. The lower nut also fits on the upper bolt, right? I have just ordered the new bolts for the top and the nuts for the bottom from Hyundai. Two bolts and four nuts together cost €85 in Germany. Here are the part numbers: bolts 55395A and for the nuts 54659.

I was able to reuse that aluminium square bolt. Didn't think to try the nut itself. Tysm for sharing the information. It'll help others tremendously

So. I finally got it done. The Nuts work for both. So before you start. Just purchase Two Bolts and four Nuts with the Partnumbers i wrote before.

I'd always recommend changing by age or mileage for this exact reason...

2 owners current owner says they've had problems with clucth since they bought it (was 17ish k when bought)

Come back for further diag. Refitted oem maf- went back to normal. Further diag showed a stuck turbo actuator also

Someone below has mentioned about removing rear subframe (dropping it down) the issue I find then is rear subframe bolts are rotten

You've seen these subframe bolts yeah... wish it was that easy. Hate these rust buckets

Hello, is it enough to loosen the screws and lower the subframe? or does more need to be solved? exhaust, tank, cable or something?

@chrisk9172 the 2 I've done. The subframe bolts seemed very corroded and I wasn't in tje mood to deal with snapped bolts. So went for the safer option

I'm sure it was just press once and it tuned off. If not press and hold for about 10 seconds

Not sure what lights you're referring too. If you mean the DRL, then they're on permanently and dim when side lights or dipped light's are turned on. If you want to get out of permenant ignition on aka, out of diagnostics mode. Then you just press the start button once more and it'll switch off.

Glad it helped

I've spent 3 hours now with all kinds of picks and different screwdrivers , I can see what to do and feel it but it still won't release . Reading on forums of some design fault on certain air bags in early model 07 GTI's or something ? I don't even care if I break something anymore theres literally metal filings all over my car now from prying . Is it possibly someone was in there before me and destroyed something ?