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Not sure which step you’re referring to?

⁠@@vandertxthere are 2 pieces attached to the actuator and you only showed the lock rod. Idk what the other one is called but you didn’t explain removing or reconnecting it. I found it to be quite difficult to remove and reconnect but I figured it out. I was upset because I came to this video specifically to see how you removed that piece.

@@ScagAteHerHmmm... interesting. It's been a while, but I don't know of any other components I had on mine besides the rod and the cables referenced at 7:58.

Agree!

It wouldn’t work with the fob buttons. The manual key and switch on the door pad still worked.

Exactly. In the process, parts get broken / lost reducing the value of your vehicle. Ford needs a simpler design for air filter replacement.

Truly! Worst design I have ever seen! Looks like they fixed it for 2022. Super simple now, like it should be.

Sorry, I’m not familiar with the 2013 models so I’m not sure.

To remove the inner door handle I think you will need to take whole panel off. Check the 4 minute mark. Fortunately it’s not much work taking the panel off.

You can send it to me instead! I’ll even take half

Can’t remember for sure - maybe E6000. I’m not sure how well it will stick to the felt long term. If it doesn’t hold up I might try a real sticky tape.

If the locks will operate manually but the fob or the rocker switch doesn’t work then it probably is the actuator. Yes, there is one in each door

I’m not sure on that but it is likely since they are built on the same platform. If you have the main lower glovebox and an upper compartment then I would guess it is the same procedure. Let us know if it is.

I would put it in correctly to be sure it’s filtering properly and not overly restrictive.

Quentin Vanderlaan thank you for reply

Matthew Bowman Haha, I know, right? I like to get to the point.

ericadennett30 if it won’t open even if you unlock it manually from the inside then it sounds like a different issue

Mastroz awesome! Glad to hear it

Do you gotta change all 4 or can you just change it on the door it don’t lock ?

Wires747 the inside manual lever by the door handle worked. But the rocker switch on the door pad by the power window switches didn’t work, neither did the fob...those are controlled electronically, which is what pointed me to the actuator as the problem.

@@vandertx would this fix if the inside lever was not working?

Wires747 no, a new actuator wouldn’t fix that. But the video shows how to disassemble the lever, cables and rods from inside the door, which may be where your problem lies.

Mastroz my locks were very slow to actuate and sometimes didn’t even work no matter which button I used, on the doors or on the fob, which pointed me to the actuators themselves. If your locks work fine with one button but not another then I would guess it is something else within the electrical system.

@@vandertx The back drivers door lock will not work with the fob or pressing the button within the car. I have to manually lock and unlock it. There other doors lock and unlock with keyfob or using the door controls. Do you think it's the actuator for my problem?

@@Mastroz1 If the inside lock lever on that door still operates the lock via the cables, but the fob or front door button won't do it, then yes it is probably the actuator. Do any other locks sound slow to operate or intermittent? Both of my rear door lock actuators started to go at the same time. Now my front locks are operating slow and noisy so I'll probably replace those next.

Quentin Vanderlaan do you mean by using my hand to unlock and lock the door? I can do that with no problem. Just can’t with a fob or using the drivers or passengers switch. I think the drivers side may be acting a little slow. The other side seems fine on the passengers side. Dealer wanted $66. I think it may be best to order one online instead. Maybe I’ll have to pick one up. All the other doors work. I don’t believe they are intermittent

I'm getting ready to replace mine and I can't turn the key in the door... Wonder if the door lock cylinder is bad too... I recently had to replace that on my son's 2005 civic.

I have not done the front doors yet on mine but I believe it is very similar.

I did it! I replaced the rear passenger side door lock actuator on my 2010 Accord - using your video, in about an hour and a half. And that's including stopping between steps to watch the next part of your video. I also noticed your trick of using electrical tape to hold down the foam anti-vibration tape. Thanks for making the video. It was the only one and the best one that I could find anywhere. When the actuator was broken, and I would get up to 9 mph, THE DOOR WOULD TRY TO LOCK ITSELF. Over and over. Problem fixed! -Jeff

Thanks for the tip!

Got it direct from Honda dealer so I want to say it was about $80-90, but you may be able to find cheaper online from HondaPartsNow.com, JCWhitney.com, rockauto.com, etc...

sunnyinanthem Thanks! Not sure about any differences on the front ones. Haven’t needed to do those yet, so post a comment if you have any tips. I think I’ll need to do them soon since I can hear them struggling to operate now.

Just did the front drivers side door. The panel and electrical clip removal process was nearly identical, except you’ll have to remove the tweeter panel in the top right corner, which is just clipped in. And there are just more wire clips inside the door. The removal of the actuator is a bit different and took me an hour to figure out. There is a blue cable that elbows into the bottom of the actuator and it was a bear to figure out how to remove it. You need to first remove the #10 bolt on the door that holds the window guide bracket so that you can maneuver around the window guide. The cable has a sleeve on it that slides over the end of the cable and it clips it to the actuator. Slide that sleeve away from the actuator over the cable and then the cable will slide out of the actuator. If done right it’s relatively easy but it is tough to figure out with low visibility. Also, it was harder to slide the actuator down off the lock rod because the rod flares at the tip. It takes a reasonable downward tug to get it off the rod. Also, be careful with the pin screw that holds the actuator in place from the inside of the door-use a standard size screwdriver on that one or you’ll strip it. By the way, I used an aftermarket actuator on the front door which was a mistake. It works fine but it sounds and feels a bit different when opening and closing the door and I’m wondering how long it’ll last. Should have spent the extra 30 bucks. Oh, and I finally turned off that auto lock feature (TH-cam instructions) which should save he actuators from now on. Let me know how it goes!

@@sunnyinanthem Good call on the differences with the front. I've made a quick video clip of the removal of that cable. (It IS very difficult to get a feel for what is supposed to happen when you can't see and can barely move.) th-cam.com/video/AsELi8-dqKI/w-d-xo.html

Alexis Tudor what's the lock wire?

Wwjcd not sure exactly what could be the issue. It sounds like it could be a combination of things based on what you describe. But you should be able to tell when the actuators are failing by the way they sound (long, whining locking sound; instead of a crisp, sharp sound like when they're new). If the actuators sound bad you might start by replacing them and see if that does it. If not, there may be other electrical issues.

Steve Nguyen each door has it's own actuator inside the door. So if the two back doors don't unlock then they each will need a new actuator (not the driver's door).

Thks. Mine came broken😢

Jayouth11 I'm sorry I do not know if a U.S. part would work on Aus model but you're logic seems to makes sense. I wouldn't think the door lock actuator would care which side the steering wheel is on, but I'm not sure on that. Suggest you contact a dealer to confirm the right part.

G-Streezy88 glad to hear it!

Glad to hear it!

Yep, it's important to have

I purchased directly from the local Honda dealer, but you may also find them on sites like HondaPartsNow.com, JCWhitney.com, rockauto.com, etc...