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@@bluephoenix53 Schematics are available at radiomuseum.org

@@bluephoenix53 Parts are available from a number of sources, including mouser.com and digikey.com. Best of luck!

@@rcmac206 Nice!

@@KJ7JHN Probably Mouser.com, but that was some time back. Caps are widely available from a variety of sources.

@@KJ7JHN Best of luck.

@@appunti2 Thank you so much for watching.

@@JoeyTraywick Thanks, Joey. Unfortunately, it’s almost difficult to find replacement cartridges. My only suggestion would be to set up a search on eBay to keep an eye open. Best of luck to you.

@@altcountyemo I’m glad you caught the error. Wide=White=Neutral. Any trouble finding incandescent bulbs?

@@fibberscloset498 I have a few bulbs stashed away but using 150 year old technology does have it's drawback. We're gonna need a newer solution.

@@altcountyemo- buy a variable power supply and ramp it up slowly when testing -

I agree. The slotted wheel wobbles. But, it seems to work.

Me neither. Thanks.

@@Movieman1965 Thank you very much.

@@z95m Me, too. I suspect it will have something to do with induction.

@@waynethompson8416 Good guess. All is revealed in part 2.

@@Capecodham The Heathkit TC-1 is capable of testing 9-pin miniature tubes. If you are asking whether I will test a tube for you, the answer is no, you would be better off getting in touch with your local vintage radio society and working with someone there to get your tubes tested.

@@fibberscloset498 I have the TC-1 and your video was helpful.

@@jimmiemack1947 Good point. Most of us are mentally back in the day, and think of technology available at the time the radio was made. And as you know, incandescent bulbs are getting harder to find.

@@justinmitchell7812 Hi Justin, when you say it works as it should, what do you mean? Have you or someone else gone through the restoration process as I did in the video?

@@fibberscloset498 I mean that everything turns on and functions like it should other than the only sound that will come out is static. I can’t get the radio to work on am or fm and I can’t get the record player to work either

@@justinmitchell7812 It sounds to me like you have inherited a 74 year old console that needs restoring. If you have no training or experience in old electronics, it’s not something that I would recommend you try. The bottom line is that your grandpa’s radio needs to be restored. There are electronic parts in there that have worn out with time and need to be replaced. Your best option would be to get in touch with your local vintage radio society (just search for “vintage radio” and include your state or city). They will know of someone that can get it back to working condition. Best of luck.

@@pedromorillas6535 Thank you.

Hi, Joe. First of all, have you or someone else gone through the machine and cleaned all the old lube out? Has the idler wheel been replaced? When you place a record on the spindle and start the turntable, does the record drop normally?

@@fibberscloset498 yes idler wheel was replaced, everything drops, arm lines up based on selection. Ive had it apart a few times, it looks pretty clean. Where do you suspect I might have to clean lube?

@@joeleonard34 A couple more questions. When you say it comes to a screeching halt, do you mean the platter stops turning even though the motor is still trying to move it? I’m beginning to wonder about the clutch being out of sync.

@@fibberscloset498 yeah as soon as the needle lands the patter stops but the motor is running

@@joeleonard34​​⁠OK, does the platter slow down and stop, or does it stop suddenly? Sorry for so many questions, but I have not run into this before.

@@davearmstrong1932 Thank you very much.

Yes, there are six. You can start here: th-cam.com/video/2hSzNit7fOo/w-d-xo.html

@@scgoatfarmer I believe that asbestos is only hazardous if it’s disturbed. A couple of coats of clear coat and a layer of tape will seal the asbestos and prevent it from breaking down into hazardous particles. This treatment is, in my opinion, far safer than trying to remove the material. Proceed at your own risk.

@@fibberscloset498 makes me a little nervous. I also turned over the radio chassis and it looks like the audio transformer (I could have that wrong) is wrapped in insulation that looks suspicious for asbestos. As far as you know was there asbestos in the radio chassis as well?

@@scgoatfarmer it would surprise me if the audio transformer was insulated with asbestos. There would be no reason for it. As far as I am aware, there is no more asbestos in the chassis.

The platter is held down by gravity. If you’re lucky, you simply have to pry the platter up with your fingers. If the old grease is really solid, spray a squirt of penetrating oil, leave it for 24 hours, and try again. If that fails, pry upward on two points while someone else gently taps on the spindle. Ultimately, it may require heat be applied to the spindle and platter where they meet, not a lot, and not for long. Good luck.

By gravity, I mean it’s a friction fit with no retaining clips.

@@fibberscloset498 Thank you for your reply. I have tried everything you suggested, sprayed squirt of oil, heated spindle area with heat gun, pried up with my fingers while swiveling around, tapped on spindle and platter hole area, but it will not come up.. Trying not to bend it. It is really stuck!

@@michaelvice3976 wow, it’s really stuck! At this point I would begin to wonder if there wasn’t a spring wire retainer of some kind. I don’t have any other ideas for you, other than some wooden wedges driven in around the perimeter and left to sit. See what steady pressure might do. Best of luck on this one.

@@fibberscloset498 THAT'S a good idea about the wedges. I will try that. I think there are 2 small holes in the platter in the spindle area that might have something below that releases the platter. Have not checked that out yet. Your videos are always great! and helpful. I may have other questions on this as I go along. Thank you for your replies.

Good point. The switch is already in series with one side of the outlet.

Thank you very much, Terry. I appreciate that you watched.

Thanks!

Thanks, Larry!

Thanks for the question. It made me go back and check that the alarm was working correctly. It turns out that it was 12 hours off. What I found was that when you remount the clock hands, the 12 on the black alarm dial should actually point down to the red arrow on the other end of the hour hand. In other words, the hour and second hand should both point to midnight, but the alarm dial should be set to align its 12 with the red arrow on the hour hand. To set the alarm, you turn the alarm button counter-clockwise until the red arrow on the hour hand points to the time you want to get up on the alarm dial. Hope that's clear, and thanks for checking in!

Thanks so much, Larry. Hope all is well with you.

@@fibberscloset498 All is good here, just staying busy! Thanks!

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@@noyjirat1903 Thank you.

I will have to try that. Thanks!

Thanks for watching.

Good question, and one I don't have a good answer for. It was obviously done for a reason, but I can't think of a good one.

I'm not quite sure what you're referring to.