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I'm happy this helped you.

R u special needs?? Not many tools involved

ספק כח שח מחשב מומלץ.

בהחלט. זה פשוט יקח יותר זמן לראות תוצאות אפקטיביות.

@@dewhead101 אולי במקרה ידוע לך מאיפה ניתן להשיג שאריות של מתכות שיקבלו את החלודה? יש לי לא מעט כלים לניקוי...חשבתי אזור תעשייה משהו...

@@MoranGuyVideos כל מתכת ישנה תעשה את העבודה. לא חייב שזה יהיה נקי מחלודה או במצב טוב. תמצא משהו ישן וחלוד, תגרד ממנו את החלודה קצת ותשתמש בזה.

@@dewhead101 לקחתי פחית שימורים ואני משאיר את זה הלילה עם סודה לשתייה (הזמנתי קארבונט...יקח זמן עד שיגיע)...מעניין לראות אם יעבוד.

עדכון עבד מעולה :-) לא נשארה חלודה כלל. בסוף עבדתי עם שנאי 12 וולט 2 אמפר.

That's correct. This is relevant for someone who's remapping 👌🏻

אני שמח שזה עזר :)

Precise. If you're running a slip-on or full system it's no longer needed.

So P1412 and P1413 would point to the SAS being disconnected. If you have a race ECU installed or the race map flashed, disconnecting the SAS will not throw codes. In regards to the codes you're seeing, did you get a chance to connect the bike up to GizziDiag/IAWDiag and erase the codes? If the codes come back I would look at the connectors to make sure they're clean and connected good.

I did erase the codes, I don't think it has a race map flashed on it (rather new to this) and the SAS pump is still connected to the electrical plug. Reading a few more threads that's kind of what I'm thinking is I might just need get the TB connections cleaned and clipped in better, though I suspect the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. Since they're cheap I figure might as well with 17k miles on it. Thanks for the response!

Good luck! And make sure to do valve clearance on time! I don't know what the last owner did with your bike but these bikes are pretty reliable and don't break down (as long as you do valves on time).

Thanks! Yeah unfortunately the dealership wasn't able to help with what the prior owner did other than put 17k miles on it in only two years and there seems to be a lot of sand in various places. So I figure I should probably do a check of the valve clearance at the very least soon. I'm also assuming that no one has ever done the fork oil in that time either so that's long overdue.

@@dewhead101 By the way I replaced the one O2 sensor that wasn't within spec and the check engine light went away after a while (clearing the codes didn't work).

Tal Kabessa was that on the inlet side of the motor or outlet (exhaust)?

@@Subi_doo It's on the exhaust side.

Tal Kabessa I wouldn’t be to concerned if the only passage was straight to the exhaust and and out the muffler. If it had any chance of making its way into the oil, I’d just plug it with a bolt and clamp.

זה בהחלט מגיב גם לנחושת, אז אם חשוב לך לא לפגוע בנחושת, אני לא ממליץ להכניס את זה לדלי עם המתכת.

Tal Kabessa יש לי ברזל שמרותך אליו פליז או נחושת.. זה הבעיה אצלי. אני אפרק מה שאפשר ומה שמרותך אני אשאיר מחוץ למים

מעולה ⁦⁦👌🏼⁩ אגב, גם לפליז זה מגיב. שכחתי לציין.

כן, זה יעבוד מעולה לחלקים קטנים במיכל קטן. לדברים בינוניים כמו כלי עבודה, מומלץ ספק כח של מחשב. יש מישהו שעשה את זה לשלדה של רכב. בנה בריכה בשביל זה והשתמש ברתכת חחחח

ברור שיותר פשוט לקנות חדש. העניין זה הכיף והסיפוק בתהליך של לשחזר משהו "מהמתים".

סודה לשתייה דומה לסודיום קרבונט וגם יעבוד, רק שזה מוליך קצת פחות טוב אז שים קצת יותר. אפשר גם עם מלח אבל חשוב מאוד לעשות את זה באוויר הפתוח כי המלח ישחרר גז כלור כחלק מהתהליך.

The plastic rivet things are push-pins. Push the center of them in all the way and then pull out the body of the pin. Regarding the fairing itself, I Show how to pull it out correctly without breaking anything. I was in your position exactly lol

Tal Kabessa Thank you. I thought those clips into the tank were different on the 2013 on model ... are they the same on yours as on the 2011 model then?

Tal Kabessa I just watched it again - you describe the movement for upto 2012. I’ll have a go after Christmas - all just to properly route the wires on a gear indicator 😀

The belly pan is actually the easier part. Just get the screws on each side that hold the belly pan to the mid fairing. Sweep it out from beneath the bike.

I already tapped the front before shooting the video. No problem at all with getting the right angle.

@@dewhead101 Thanks for the helpful video.

In theory, if you had a map with perfect fueling, this mod would eliminate back-fires because no oxygen is being pushed into the exhaust manifold to encourage burning of unburnt fuel. In reality, I have a stock race ECU (no custom mapping) and it still pops and crackles. Less, but it does.

Yeah, I agree, but I did my best. I'm not a pro TH-camr ;)

Fatfinger Jack the plates are the nicest option but to get them on the rear bank are near impossible without dropping the engine. Also, be carful not to strip the screw heads. It's a tight reach. Good luck!

Yes, it's a 2014. Unscrewing the ABS pump should free up some space. No need for race/Gabro ECU with this mod. If you don't plan on ever dynoing your bike, you have no need for this mod.

deebasny, in order to get a precise air/fuel ratio reading when on the Dyno, it's recommend to remove the SAS system. The reason to remove it is because the SAS system basically lets fresh air flow into the exhaust manifold in order to promote detonation of left over fuel that wasn't burnt (Euro 4). This fresh air is also picked up by the air/fuel ratio sensor that they stick in your exhaust while on the Dyno. What happens is that it will read a leaner a/f ratio because of the fresh air in the pipes.

oh thx. but there is no point changing this for normal use on a daily basis road ?

deebasny, exactly, there is no reason to remove it for regular daily use or a stock map, although it will decrease the amount of popping and crackling from the exhaust because there is no oxygen to promote burning of the leftover fuel from combustion. If you like the popping, leave it ;)

The WHOLE video was the explanation 🤙

David Vang, I haven't fitted frame sliders but I know that most of the frame sliders are ones that you need to make a hole in the fairing. Look for "no cut sliders" on eBay.

Tal Kabessa i have the no cut sliders but seems like the abs controls has a bar that is holding the abs controls in its place i have post up a video to show if anyone have an idea to help.

David Vang, as I haven't fitted frames sliders myself, I wouldn't want to mislead you. Sorry that I can't help.

Tal Kabessa no problems at all thanks ride safe

David Vang, sure thing. You too brother

If you'd like to see an example of my work, you may check out a promo clip I did here: th-cam.com/video/3g-9dgeZ9AY/w-d-xo.html

Nice work man! Congrats on the Ape and welcome to the family ;) You can use this footage. Don't forget to send a link!

I absolutely will and thank you!

Sure thing brother

Nik Scott, thanks man and congrats on the new bike! I hope the video helps you with getting this done on your bike :)

Thanks friend :)

Seth Anderson, it's 2014 but should be the same as 2013.

Thai Douangkham, I'm glad the video was helpful :)

Treizez34, this is actually my s/o bike. Mine is the RSV4 sitting there quietly in the back. It did take me some time but we learned to love the new look :)

shots fired! jk, i've wanted to upgrade for a while but insurance quotes are insane here. Can't find any litre bike for less than $4k a year.

Ronald Chunca, I'm happy the video helped! for some reason there isn't allot of info on newer CBR's.

I noticed that, not sure why. It has to be a popular bike, it's the nicest bike my local motorcycle dealer had, imo. Thx again bro